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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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两万里逃难记(38)—— 咖啡海 · 遗恨


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2005年12月20日 

           

距离休斯顿45迈的海滨小城Galveston是德州一个非常受欢迎的度假胜地,当然,那是在夏天。隆冬时节,海边冷风飕飕,寒气刺骨。小柯与大伟带着Kiwi就在这样一个夜黑风高之夜踏浪来到位于Galveston西海岸沙滩上的Escapes度假村。

            

我们来得匆忙,忘了应该提前打电话预约的。毕竟,这种度假村不是一般酒店,前台只从早8点开放到晚8点,之后客人的房间钥匙就被放入门口的密码箱,自己输入密码取出钥匙进屋。我们两个哪里知道,进了度假村大门转了一圈没愣是没找到前台。原来这海滩上的房子为了防止飓风,一楼都是停车场,被称作地面层;房间从二楼开始,不过楼层按一层算起。打了半天电话好不容易拿到钥匙,问值班的黑人大叔这个时节客人多不多。大叔回答:“别说,现在还真有不少人来。”

           

“那他们都来做什么呢?”我紧追不舍。

         

“我也不知道。现在这么冷,不知道大家都来做什么。”大叔耸耸肩,满脸莫名其妙的表情回答到。

          

我想,我们两个一定也被这位大叔归结到这群不知好歹大冬天跑到冰冷冻人海边来的怪人啦!

           

“管它呢”,我暗自思忖,“反正都已经来了,先过了今晚再说。”

       

度假村里如我想像一般豪华。客厅外面就是无敌海景,伴着阵阵海浪确是十分浪漫的所在。

            

第二日,日上三杆,我们出门去领略Galveston的风光。这个小岛长有30迈,宽却不过3迈,沿海的一条Seawall大道东西贯穿全岛,路上有一个旗舰酒店,生生建在海上的几十根水泥柱子上,长方形的大楼两面都是海,半夜枕着涛声入眠一定不错。酒店旁边是几个纪念品店,满口摆着有脸盆一般大的贝壳。抬头望天,一片湛蓝,偶尔飘过白云朵朵。如果不是寒风萧瑟,景色着实不错。

            

如此美景,可惜大海的颜色竟然是咖啡。闲来信步海滩,发现这沙滩的颜色也是咖啡褐色,上面布满了落潮后大海遗落的贝壳。这从德州直到佛罗里达州的墨西哥湾海岸绵延有近两千迈,从西向东海水颜色变化很大。德州这里是咖啡海,进入路易斯安那州与阿拉巴马州,海水颜色逐渐变绿,越向佛罗里达州方向走海水越蓝。到达南端的迈阿迷与Key West (基韦斯特) 后海水就更加透明,蓝得更加澄澈。再出离美国向加勒比海方向推进,那更是蓝得人心旷神怡,连眼睛都要醉掉酥透,但愿忘掉人世一切烦恼,只要迷失在那桃花源里。

           

我觉得,这大海颜色的变化与海滩沙质与海水深浅有极大的关系。水浅的地方海水颜色就受沙滩颜色影响较大:咖啡沙滩映出咖啡海,金黄沙滩和着蓝天就变出绿色海水,而佛罗里达州和加勒比海的白沙滩就给出最纯粹的蓝色汪洋。离开海岸向海洋腹地走,海水变深,海底的颜色就不再重要了,所以哪里都是蓝色天地。

              

Galveston这片海滩极浅,夏天绝对是个戏水的好地方。只可惜这里是片咖啡沙滩,大海也化作咖啡心情,带着无尽的忧郁与惆怅。站在岸边,低头数着脚边的贝壳,抬头望着一波一波的白色浪花,让人不由得想到9月份的那场飓风。而此时此刻,我站在孕育了这世纪灾难的墨西哥湾面前,前尘往事一齐涌上心头。这场风暴,令我在3个月前远离这片海湾,也让我在3个月后鬼使神差再次来到它的怀抱,来看这咖啡色的大海。人生,是不是就象这杯里泛着白沫的拿铁咖啡,苦乐交织,永远不知道明天命运会带自己去什么地方?

             

休息了两天,20号决定开车一个钟头去休斯顿城里看久违了的Menil Collection。这个博物馆可以说是休斯顿最为著名的博物馆之一,即使在全国范围也是十分突出的私家收藏。去年74日,我与大伟特意造访,可惜赶上了博物馆都不开门的星期一外加国庆假日,悻悻然空跑一趟。这次是礼拜二,无论如何也不能再错过了。

             

下了59号高速公路七拐八绕几次险些迷路,总算捱到博物馆门口发现竟然周一、二都休息。老天,我险些没气晕过去,就差在门口放声大哭啦!咬牙跺脚绕着博物馆大楼开了两圈,只好再按原路返回。这个Menil Collection,难道必须要艾小柯三顾茅庐不成?!

            

为了平复我受伤的心灵,大伟决定请我去外面吃饭。两个人大中午的跑到Denny’s Diner吃早点,我特意点了个最大个儿的煎蛋卷,决定就由肚子为眼睛解气了。即使如此,也还是胸中意难平。于是决定明日整装上路时再来,不看完誓不罢休。

             

旗舰酒店

 

海边小店

 

咖啡海


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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments


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两万里逃难记(36)—— 戈壁掠影


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2005年12月17日 

17日,横跨三州。

          

从亚利桑那州直到新墨西哥州,一路上几乎都是戈壁。其实,英文上是叫索诺若沙漠地带的,不过沙漠(desert)这个词,动词上是抛弃的意思,名词泛指一切不被接受的荒凉地方。这和中国文化里所指的沙漠有很大的区别。不管是在犹他州的盐湖城沙漠,还是亚利桑那州的沙漠,根本就没有大漠千里黄沙滔滔的壮丽景象。所谓沙漠,就是少人居住的荒地,一片一片的长满低矮的小灌木丛,实在叫做戈壁更合适些。

           

这样的戈壁里,竟然生长着一种神奇的植物:超级巨大无敌之索瓜若仙人掌(Saguaro Cactus)。这些巨大的仙人掌能够长到两、三米高,干颈粗大,上面是硬如钢针的粗刺。从凤凰城直到亚利桑那州第二大城市Tucson一路都是这样的无敌巨人仙人掌。放眼望去,天色湛蓝,白云朵朵,一片土黄戈壁万里无垠。一丛一丛的低矮黄绿灌木荆棘中站着一个个这样张牙舞爪的绿色巨人,这完全就是传统西部片里的布景啦。不过阴雨天(虽然这里一年日照有300多天)时候这些孤零零的绿色家伙们就要倒霉了,成为大地的避雷针,被劈得东倒西歪。

             

说到Tucson,这还真是一个非常有趣得地方。这里的印第安文化十分强劲,有不少印第安艺术品与博物馆。同时由于地广人稀,那些占地巨大的博物馆也都选择在这里安家,比如毕玛飞机博物馆,戴维斯-漭森空军基地,全国最大的凯特峰星象台等等。除此之外,城北30迈有一个超级巨大自给自足的生态基地(Biosphere 2),就是一个超级巨大全封闭的透明半球体,里面是一个迷你生态系统,19918位科学家进入这个封闭生态系统生活了两年,据说是为了将来人类建立太空站做准备。如果不是匆匆路过,这个Tucson城小柯是一定要好好造访的。

            

I-10经过Tucson的时候我发现路边的房子基本都是沙漠色调,偶尔有几个超凡脱俗加了个红顶。这些都是民居,怎么看起来象军营?原来,亚利桑那州的原则是要保持沙漠的自然风貌,不要人为的绿洲。当然,这些沙漠色的房子未必完全是这样政策的产物,不过城市里是绝对不鼓励住户种植草坪绿地的。沙漠里严重缺水,虽然90年代早期造价四十亿的引水计划引入了科罗拉多河水,但仍无法完全解决水源问题。所以这样的自然风貌政策,一方面是保护沙漠地貌,另一方面也是为了节水。

             

一路继续向东,进入新墨西哥州后,地貌状况与亚利桑那州相差无几。可惜南部这段的新墨西哥州没有什么特别的城镇,著名的Santa Fe 更远在州北。没多久,天就黑了,我们也终于进入了已经四次造访的德州。

       

超级无敌巨大之索瓜若仙人掌

 

亚利桑那州戈壁

 

新墨西哥州戈壁


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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments


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两万里逃难记(34)—— 中国殖民地


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2005年12月18日 

            

位于洛杉矶市中心的老中国城实在是一块神秘又奇怪的土地。

            

仅有几街之隔,洛杉矶市中心商业区是高楼林立,夜晚华灯璀璨,那绝对是走在时尚的最前端;而老中国城却是一片红香绿玉的旖旎风情,时光上仿佛倒退了数十年。据说,这里的华裔大概有20万,大部分来自广东与四川,在中国城里经营餐饮业与小商品贸易。

               

沿着北Hill Street与北Spring Street慢慢逛下去,街边是一个个的小店铺,卖的是刺绣与镶着塑料闪光片的俗气绣花鞋,大小红绿蓝塑料盆,开箱散装花旗参,大小河海干货海鲜,一盒一盒从中国进口的中药西药。靠近公车站是街头报刊摊,摆满了香港明报壹周刊,大陆台湾的各种杂志。街对面一个小火车站,建的是飞檐翘角,外贴红黄琉璃瓦。这里的的街名在英文下面都是中文注释,连美国的银行橱窗里的广告全部都是中文。

             

早起与大伟去吃早点,穿过一片仿佛南京夫子庙商业区的红墙绿瓦。南方风格西饼店外聚集着几十位闲逛的中年与老年人。他们大都穿着蓝黑长裤,毛线织的马甲,围着一个象棋盘谈笑风生。和国内捧着小茶壶溜早的老头们唯一的区别在于,他们大多喝的是纸杯的咖啡。小区中心花池子边坐着许多老头老太在唠嗑,也有年轻点的男人,穿着仿佛中山装的深蓝套装,脚上一双白色球鞋,手里拎个塑料袋,双眼茫然,不知道是等待开工还是纯粹发呆。

             

穿过小区拐个弯是个潮州小饭馆,早点正卖豆浆油条。窗户上贴着彩色电光纸剪成的“米饭、炒面”字迹,有些地方字迹脱落了,露出常年缺乏清洁沾满尘土的黑边。小饭馆里面桌凳还算清洁,靠近后堂供着关公神龛,红色长明灯幽幽的亮着,香炉里有几根残香。

             

老板娘是潮州人,已经在这里生活经营了17年。大概是店里没人,她乐得跟我们聊天,顺便拼命推销店里的招牌炒河粉。来美国几年,小柯与大伟哪见过如此热情拼命推销的仗势,不得已点了个炸鱼丸,算不辜负老板娘的一番苦心。店里人少,除了老板娘,还有一位年约五十的大妈,黑色九分筒裤,黑色宽根皮鞋,露出白白的一截袜子,上罩一件红粉小夹克,明明是七十年代装扮。她不时走到门口,讲起带着浓重潮州口音的英文向过往行人招徕生意。小柯吃着油条,喝着装在塑料红花大碗里的甜豆浆,一时间突然时空错乱,我难道穿越了时空隧道,回到三、四十年代的上海小镇?

                

老板娘话多,拼命问我们哪里来的,到洛杉矶做什么。临走顺便推销朋友代卖的便宜毯子,吉祥话一句接一句。我和大伟几乎是逃一样跑出来,总算吸两口新鲜空气。路边的小学里小孩正在早操,满眼都是中国小孩,隐隐有广东话传进耳朵,仔细听,又好像是英文。

              

大伟说:“这哪里是美国?明明就是旧中国,是美国里的中国殖民地。”这话总结得真好。老中国城里的移民都来得早,在这里几十年。他们会讲英语的少,整个社区里自给自足,所有新闻消息要么人传人,要么来自过期了的香港台湾报纸杂志。与改革开放后的大陆相比,这里消息其实更为闭塞。近年来移民政策收紧,新来移民减少,年轻人更不愿意到如此传统乃至落后的地区生活,老中国城缺乏新鲜血液的供给。在这种情况下,这里如同把几十年前的中国原封不动搬到洛杉矶,封闭起来,原汁原味到底。

              

老中国城里是吃不到新近流行的四川水煮鱼,内蒙小肥羊或者麻辣小龙虾的。这里只有传统的海鲜,清蒸鲈鱼,姜葱龙虾的味道倒也新鲜可口。要吃好的,就要去洛杉矶周边的新中国城,比如San Gabriel大街。这里的中国城离传统很远,店铺崭新,中国字的超级霓虹灯闪耀着北京上海广州一样的蓬勃生机。随便一家饭馆,四川湖南天津北京,各地美食味道都是一等一的超级顶呱呱。在这里,英文是不必讲的,中文足够。

             

 洛杉矶,旧金山,还有加州的广袤土地,实实在在是移民的天堂。从文化上讲,这里就是新意义上的中国殖民地,是无数人梦想开始的地方。         

                

老中国城里的美龄路

 

潮州小馆


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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments


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两万里逃难记(33)—— 环球影城


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2005年12月18日

                

洛杉矶最著名的是好莱坞,好莱坞最著名的是电影。于是,小柯与大伟决定分一天给环球影城,在电影事业最发达的好莱坞体会惊险刺激的电影之旅。

            

与奥兰多的环球影城不同,这里的环球主体乐园只有一个,少了冒险岛的超级英雄体验。不过这里的环球影城是真正的影城,里面无数的摄影棚都是正投入使用,有电影电视在实地拍摄的。45分钟的小火车游览能够带游客走遍那些影棚与外景。当然,影棚里面是别有洞天,可惜都是镜花水月,只能匆匆看过灰色外墙和巨大的白色标号,十分不过瘾。不过那些外景可就是真材实料,比如出现在Bruce Almighty,Jim Carry风掀美女裙的纽约街景,Desperate Housewife里奶油黄的房子,War of the Worlds里坠毁的客机……等等等等。除此之外,当然也少不了实地体验电影中的灾难镜头,比如地震震到地铁破裂,洪水倒灌入地下。虽然看起来十分逼真,车里的人倒是毫发无伤,虚惊一场。

           

如果这个模拟灾难场景不过瘾,那后面还有更惊险刺激的电影体验。轻松如Shrek 4D电影,激烈如Mummy的极速翻滚,还有《回到未来》的全息体验。不过小柯最喜欢还是那些台上台下能够互动的娱乐节目,例如电影特效的展示。最早的特效都比较简陋,往往运用蓝屏,前面演员表演,后面手动合成。于是两位观众被请上台去志愿展示蓝屏的功用,其中的女孩子要表演看到窗外巨大的猫咪后极度惊恐,然后奋力大战猫爪的场景。那个巨大猫爪原来是绑在一个长柄上的毛绒造型,样子跟鸡毛掸子类似,由工作人员拿好伸进镜头假扮猫爪。两位主持人真是超级幽默,加上不会表演的志愿观众,那场面真是要多好笑有多好笑。

           

那些刀割人手血流满身的镜头原来也都是超级假冒:刀子是特制的,刃上突然凹进去一块,凹的弧度正好椭圆,接近人胳膊,造成刀子割进胳膊的假象。那血,在黑白电影时代就是Hershey的巧克力汁,现在呢,变成了茄红素加玉米糖浆,一买就是一大瓶。

            

最搞笑的部分是主持人请一位小观众上台展示电脑特级。小观众穿上连着无数电线的模拟动作马甲,面对一个丑陋的大狗怪,控制狗怪模型的动作。人动,模型也动,酷吧?别急,模型立刻就失控了,怎么也不动。然后狗怪眼睛里突然亮起红灯,模型失控,开始自由活动吓唬观众。原来大家都被晃点了!什么遥控模型,那分明就是一个人穿着狗怪的衣服,又是超级搞笑的特别节目!

              

这样互动的节目除了特效展示,还有动物明星的表演。甚至电影也借鉴了这样的方式,全方位调动观众的一切感官。所谓4D,就是除了视觉立体之外,还有触觉。Shrek电影里驴子打喷嚏的时候观众脸上会被喷上水,《终结者2》里演员进出屏幕,观众还能闻到最著名打斗场景里机械的味道。总之在这样的电影体验里,现代科技正使用一切手段让游客切身进入电影情节之中,将这份新鲜刺激扩大至无穷。

              

当然,大概是因为第二次来环球影城,小柯感觉主题乐园的项目虽然好玩,但却没有一个项目特别突出,远远不及奥兰多环球影城里的冒险岛来得更激荡人心。同样是侏罗纪公园体验,好莱坞这个基本上就是一个设计比较精巧的急流勇进项目,并不十分可怕。

             

不过影城里的城市之路还是一样的繁华璀璨,如同迷你型的拉斯维加斯大道。这样明媚的不夜城才配得上好莱坞这名利之所,把黑夜燃尽高声欢歌。走在上面不当心,可能连灵魂都要丢掉在这浮光声色里。

             

这,就是电影的魅力吧。

              

电影中的纽约街景

 

Desperate Housewife 实景

 

War of Worlds里坠毁的飞机

 

Backdraft里的爆炸性大火

 

Water World表演场景

 

Animal Planet现场表演

 

City Walk之夜


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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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两万里逃难记(32)—— 小巫见大巫


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2005年12月17日

         

洛杉矶说来也算一座山城,尤其是好莱坞的比佛利山庄,那实实在在的是一座大山。盘山公路一圈一圈的绕上去,小路十分陡峭。往往拐一个大弯,从山背面迎面过来一辆大车,着实吓人一跳。而那些传说中的影星歌星的亿万豪宅,就分布在这样一个险峻所在。其中横贯山庄的Muholland Drive,在2001年被当作电影之名,上演一段惊心动魄的惊悚片。

        

与比佛利山庄相连的有两条横贯东西的著名大道:好莱坞与日落大道。好莱坞大道完全是商业区的作风,中间那段两边的人行道上是一个接一个的金光五星,上面刻着无数明星的大名,绵延不绝,这就是那星光大道啦。可惜我们行色匆匆,只能略微浏览,也没找到成龙同学的手印。星光大道两旁是一个个的纪念品商店,其规模都不及上海南京路或天津的滨江道,只勉强达到一般小城市中心的繁华程度。只有再向西行,有大概两三个街区的范围,才看到大连锁店气派非凡的身姿。这实在与我脑子里想像的好莱坞大相径庭。

           

日落大道与好莱坞大道平行,越靠近比佛利山庄越是住宅区。附近的豪华街区都是经年松树掩映,林阴大道两侧是成片绿地与美丽豪宅。虽说规模已相当惊人,但和比佛利山庄上的比起来真是小巫见大巫。山上的亿万豪宅不仅林阴掩映,而且都是庭院深深,路上行人能看到的无非是两扇雕花生铁大门,和里面隐隐约约的宽阔道路。至于房子究竟光景如何,就只能任凭猜测了。日落大道上这些能够看得见的风景,大概只能算是豪宅中的小弟,给真正的大哥们挡道护驾。

             

由日落大道向东往洛杉矶市中心去,街上景色也逐渐破败起来。涂鸦多了,便宜的小旅馆多了,风格也和任何一个城市拥挤脏乱的程度相差无几。唯一告诉游人这里真正是电影之都的,就是那无处不在的超级电影海报。它们可以出现在任何一幢高楼的侧面,占据任何一个巨幅广告牌。不过当小柯看到蓝眸红唇,青丝飘飘的章子怡几乎四层楼高的超级海报的时候,还是吃了一惊。那东方的脸孔,西方的神态就这样目空一切的俯视着日落大道,望向那不可一世的好莱坞。这样的东西交杂,看上去真是无比的性感与神秘。

  

 

日落大道上的章子怡


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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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两万里逃难记(31)—— Golden State


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2005年12月14日

               

为什么加州被称为“Golden State”,今天的旅途终于给出了答案。

       

在加州居住了将近三个月,终于是时候重返家园了。艾小柯,大伟和可爱的Kiwi再次踏上了3000迈征程,正式重返新奥尔良。

           

第一站就是著名的洛杉矶。沿着5号公路,一路两旁都是牧场和果园。现在是加州的冬天,牧场的草都变作金黄。远远望去,只叫人想起“黄金州”这个词来。当然,被称作黄金地带的加州自然不是为了这个颜色,不过小柯眼中这片金光万里,倒真映了这词的本意。

                   

金黄的草场上,成群的黑牛在阳光下悠闲的吃着草。别看这景色虽好,可气味却着实难闻。连熟睡中的Kiwi都被臭醒了,睁着迷惑的大圆眼睛东瞧西闻,看车里进了什么东西。还好这片气味蓬勃的牧场不算太大。接下来是大片大片的绿地,映着红彤彤不知道是什么作物的一大块,再配上天边突然飘来的一片雾,实在是一幅绝美的印象派作品。

          

除了这片金黄与红艳,从旧金山到洛杉矶的旅程最特殊的就是山上成排的风车了。因为能源危机,风车在加州的电力行业中成为十分重要的一环,它们的倩影也成为加州公路上的特殊景观。一个个雪白的站成行,顶天立地的在阳光下舒展着三片翅膀,在微风中旋转着,也在小柯心中歌唱着,飞舞着,这就是“一行白鹭上青天”的美景了。

             

到达LA已经接近六点,正赶上下班时间大堵车。这个全美第二大城市果然实力雄厚,车流不断。一家人住进了中国城内的Best Western。别看是连锁的美国旅馆,到了中国城可真就入乡随俗。不仅名字变成龙门旅馆,连里面的装饰都是古香古色。前台前先放两把红木镶珠贝花纹的太师椅壮门面,柜台后负责迎接的老伯更是一身明黄的员外氅,柜台上一面镇宅铜锣。一时间,小柯仿佛置身电影里30年代的老上海,迷失在古今中外错落交杂的时光隧道里。房间里也是一样的中国:山水国画,明黄福字靠垫,描金龙的黑陶花盆,小小的阳台外面是满满闪光的中国字霓虹灯。这个时候,如果小柯能够穿上一条镶金边的墨绿高开叉旗袍,戴上莹润又俗气的珍珠项链,手里再不经意的夹跟又细又长的香烟,那简直就是王家卫电影里颓废又神秘的画面了。

           

车轮上长大的Kiwi再上征程,表现也是超级良好。不哭不闹也不乱抓,上了车就乖乖睡觉,到了陌生的房间全部视察一遍后就随遇而安了。真是超级可爱的宝贝!

          

究竟城中景色如何,待小柯明日细细道来。

        

一行白鹭 

 

亭亭玉立


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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments


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两万里逃难记(25)


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2005年9月13日

       

走马观花盐湖城

           

         

盐湖城市中心最大的建筑群当属摩门教总部的广场。从南门进去,内部有无数来自世界各地学习摩门教义的兄弟姐妹。他们通常自费来到盐湖城,在这里住上56个月,期间充当义工,给来参观的游客导游。小柯一家的导游就是一名来自法国和一名来自西班牙的女孩。免费的游览有三条路线。 

                                 

第一条路线是参观摩门教总部广场内部。用作先知传教的巨大圆顶建筑Tabernacle正在加固翻新,很可惜无法进入内部参观。所以游览的第一站变成Assembly Hall,一个坐落在大庙左下脚的小教堂。教堂里正面是一排宏伟的管风琴铜管,整个会所经常被用作小型音乐会的场馆。教堂面前左方是一座黑色雕像,用来纪念最早到达犹他州的摩门教垦荒者。这些垦荒者到达的时候是七月,已经过了最佳的播种季节,所以当年的粮食收成并不太好。第二年好不容易要大丰收,可惜收成前三个礼拜开始闹蝗灾,一年的辛苦马上就要毁于一旦。教徒们无奈开始向上帝祈祷,也许是偶然,也许是垦荒者的虔诚感动了上帝,一群从大盐湖飞来的海鸥及时赶到,消灭了蝗虫,垦荒者一年的艰辛得以保存,今后的世世代代才能继续繁衍下去。所以教堂正前方树立了一座丰碑,上面是大盐湖的海鸥。海鸥从此成为犹他州的州鸟。

           

 

Assembly Hall内部

 

游览的下一站是最著名的摩门教大庙(Temple)。这座宏伟的教会建筑于1853年始建,用时四十年。因为当年的犹他州是一片荒蛮,建筑大庙的巨石都是从很远的落基山脉一点点运来的。说不定,正式因为建筑这些庞大的庙宇,犹他州境内的落基山脉才都如刀削一般拥有如此神奇的平顶呢!不尽大庙建得艰辛,刚才说的Assembly hall在建筑的时候也是费尽心计。大堂里面看上去象是大理石的柱子其实都是木头的,外面涂上大理石的花纹。教堂顶上树立的金像是一个天使,据摩门教义,就是她当年四次显灵,指引先知Joseph Smith找到古印第安人摩门写在金书页上,故名摩门教义的圣经补充读物,并把它从古埃及文翻译成英文。翻译完成后,也是这位天使收回了摩门金书,从此不知所终。 

                    

坐落在盐湖城的这座大庙是摩门教遍布全国庙宇中最古老的之一,甚至整个盐湖城中心都是以它为坐标建筑的,其东西南北四条大道分别叫东、西、南、北庙街,可见其在盐湖城人心目中的重要性。这样的庙宇和一般摩门教教堂的区别在于:教堂是面对全人类开放的,不管信教与否都可以随便进入;而摩门人认为庙宇是上帝与其子耶稣直接生活的地方,具有无比伦比的神圣性。一个教徒必须经过多年修行,确定抛弃一切浮华(比如说摩门教是禁烟禁酒的),保证心灵信仰的至上纯净,才可以进入庙宇。摩门教的受洗礼和婚礼也一定要在庙宇里进行。他们认为在庙宇里结成的亲人具有永生性,也就是说人死后无论如何转世轮回,仍然永远会和亲人在一起,这一点是摩门教与其他基督教的主要区别之一。盐湖城里的这座大庙是不对游客开放的,但是游客可以通过一些图片窥豹一斑,比如大庙里举行婚礼仪式的大厅,其所有布置都极其简洁,象征着放弃浮世繁华;大厅南北两面各有一面镜子,相互影射源源无穷,象征着永生的亲情。

       

第一条游览路线的最后一站是大庙西北边的教堂历史和艺术博物馆。一进门眼前就是一条色彩鲜明的螺旋上升通道,通道两旁的环形墙上是从底到天花板的蓝色宇宙和星球图像,配合庄严的宗教音乐,让人如置天堂,连呼吸都不敢大声。沿着螺旋通道上到二楼后,眼前是一座巨大洁白的耶稣雕像。这里就是游览的终点了。每位导游这时都会发给游客一张信息反馈卡,让游客写下心得,当然最重要的是姓名电话和家庭住址了,摩门教徒一向以传教的坚持不懈精神著名。信息反馈卡的主要目的是留下地址,好让当地的摩门教徒上门送上教义或者DVD,进行传教。小柯一家暂时无家可归,倒是省了解释的麻烦。 博物馆共有三层,除了二层的巨大耶稣雕像,每层的墙壁上都挂满了宗教油画或宗教雕像。地下一层还有两个电影放映厅,展示犹他州摩门先驱的艰苦生活和摩门教义宗旨。小柯一家无人信教,只作探索性的参观后就迅速离去:下午时间不多,还有很多著名建筑没有参观呢。    

               

不管在哪个建筑里,都有很多的摩门志愿者。就如同给我们免费导游的那两个小姑娘一样,这些来自世界各国的志愿着,以年轻姑娘居多,每当看到大概同种族国籍的游客就主动热情的迎上去问是否需要帮助导游,或者解答疑惑等等。刚开始小柯还觉得新鲜,感叹教会的富裕与好客,后来就有些不厌其烦了。因为不论哪位教徒,上来的第一个问题必然问“你从哪来”,而现在新奥尔良突然成了全美国最著名的城市,一下午里小柯至少解释介绍了我们的状况10次左右,后来几乎都说顺嘴了,张口就来。不过至少关于摩门教的一个重要问题小柯终于弄明白了。都说摩门是一夫多妻制,其实早已成为历史了。据博物馆里一位来自新西兰的年轻美女,当初的一夫多妻主要是因为摩门先驱到达犹他州后女多男少,为了生存不得已自然形成的制度,目前早已废止。如今任何宣扬一夫多妻的教徒都是背离了真正摩门教义,至少是盐湖城总部的这个摩门教义。如此说来,倒也合理:意识形态建筑是在物质基础之上的,存在即合理。

 

耶稣雕像

 

 

亚当和夏娃

 

第二条游览路线是大庙广场(Temple Square)背面的会展中心。这里面主要是参观如同人民大会堂一般气派宏伟,能容纳两万一千人的巨大会议大厅。会议大厅上面有一个艺术画廊,里面也都是与摩门教义和宗教故事相关的油画。对于想了解摩门教来龙去脉的人来说,这是非常好的“看图说话”场所。

 

会展中心

 

 

会议大厅

 

楼顶的sky light

会展中心里小柯最喜欢的是楼顶巨大的顶层花园。花园里所有的植物都是犹他州的本地植物,春夏之交的时候百花齐放,是一座无以伦比的色彩花园。可惜此时已入初秋,楼顶上只有大片的“草原”和无数高低错落的松树。站在“草原”后面俯瞰盐湖城市景,真难以相信自己竟站在一座高楼之巅,小柯的眼睛明明告诉大脑:“会当凌绝顶,一览众山小”。

                 

除了会展中心,另一个俯瞰盐湖城全景的地方是大庙广场东边的教会办公楼。作为全称最高的建筑之一,办公楼上面专门设有了望台。了望台下午5点关门,小柯一家于关门前10分钟赶到,总算没错过登高望山的机会。

 

 

俯瞰盐湖城中心

 

犹他州政府

 

第三条游览路线是参观犹他州摩门教先驱:Brigham Young的故居。时间已晚,小柯一家决定不如自行去参观办公楼旁边的原犹他大酒店。这座富丽辉煌的原犹他大酒店也是教会财产,10年前教会决定酒店卖烟卖酒,和摩门教义相悖,于是酒店关门大吉,现被改成办公楼出租。楼下一楼大厅供游人免费参观,同时开辟一部分空间建筑了一个寻源堂。所有游人都可以免费使用里面的电脑在互联网上寻找自己已故的亲人,建筑自己的家庭树(Family tree)。

 

    

 前犹他大酒店的侧面                                               舞厅的水晶吊灯

原犹他大酒店和摩门大庙中间有一座循环水池,水面平缓如镜,是个绝佳的照相地点。不同的角度可以把整座大庙或者酒店倒映在水面上,制造出一种奇异的视觉效果。喜欢摄影的朋友这个地点一定不要错过。

 

参观完,天色也开始变暗了。匆匆吃过晚饭后三个人找不到回旅馆的公共汽车站,结果坐上市区范围内免费的电动火车误打误撞到了著名的Delta Center。这里就是2002年冬季奥运会的速滑比赛场地,中国队就是在这里取得了冬奥会零的突破。Delta Center的对面是过去的太平洋联合火车站,现在被改成一座新潮时尚的购物中心,每到半点整点,广场中心的地上喷泉会随着雄壮的奥林匹克音乐喷出高低错落的水柱,又是盐湖城的一道美景。

 

Delta Center

 

联合太平洋火车站

 

候车大厅

 

一下午的旅程在8点左右正式结束。所参观的摩门教建筑和听到的宗教故事虽说不上多么令人赞叹,但至少让小柯一家暂时忘却了很多关于未来、现实的烦恼。公车还没有来,盐湖城初秋的风带着凉意瑟瑟袭来。小柯依偎在大伟怀里,想着逃难以来这些起起伏伏。不管有多么困难,明天的路终究还要走下去,不如重新抖擞精神,多想想一路以来看到的美景:这也是一种不可多得的人生经验。年轻的时候多经历一下,多体会一些,也从中得到很多珍贵的感悟。最重要的是我们一家人在一起共同患难,这份亲情爱情是我们最宝贵的财富。 晚上回到旅馆,msn上遇到了华人论坛音乐坊的歌友紫龙。聊了两句,得知我们的情况后,紫龙全家立刻决定慷慨解囊帮助我们度过难关。紫龙做这个决定的时候甚至连小柯的真名都不知道,这份恩情是我们无法以语言表述的。只希望小柯一家将来能够有机会以同样的善心去帮助如我们现在一样需要帮助的人,祝福紫龙一家人永远平安喜乐! 913日,车还没有修好,看来只有下一天再上路了。表弟沙鸥翔急等着面见UC Berkeley他们系的主任,决定最后他是否要暂时转学到那,于是一家商量过后决定让沙鸥翔单独先飞加州。现在逃难路上就剩下了小柯、大伟和可爱的Kiwi,希望明天能够按计划重续我们的西行之路,早日到达阳光加州。

             


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March 14th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments


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Houston二日行


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Houston二日行——2004年7月

 

艾小柯
 

 

2004年7月,美国的国庆节要放假三天。我和大伟打算用这点时间出去转转,但是又不想去远的地方,于是两个人半夜琢磨了半天打算去新奥尔良旁边最近的大城市休斯敦去逛逛,说不定还能在某个注定的时间偶遇姚明呢。

计划已定,我们7月2号礼拜五中午出发,开车向休斯敦前进。Houston总体说来就是“大”。晚上10点开始进城,从I-10转45号路,立刻就要在100米内马上要穿过5条车道下高速,我紧张得手心冒汗,拼命抓着车门上的扶手。在downtown连单行路都有4个车道,我和大伟这种小城市的乡下人一开始都不会拐弯了。那天晚上的月亮是又大又圆,低低的,黄黄的,透过点点灯光的林立高楼,在深蓝的夜幕下窄窄的露出半个脸来,让人觉得这个城市那么的不真实。

休斯敦 downtown

 

按照计划,我们7月3号一早去了Johnson Space Center。Johnson Space Center是NASA三个航天中心之一,主要致力于宇航飞船遥控和太空站的研发。整个航天中心面积非常大,接待游客的只是一小部分。总体感觉是展览主要面向孩子和青少年,以航天知识的教育为主。展厅里有各种各样的机器人动物,各式各样的宇航服,模拟宇航飞船推进器,和每半小时一次的介绍宇航员太空生活的模拟太空舱。这里还有一个IMAX电影,放映四场不同的介绍人类太空探索发展和太空站知识的大屏幕电影。我和大伟最感兴趣的是参观NASA的航天设施和宇航飞船的主控制站。这两个项目都是包括在门票里的,就是需要排很长时间的队。小火车带着我们在巨大无比的航天中心里穿梭,我们参观了真正的火箭(退役后的),仍在使用中的模拟太空站和宇航飞船,飞船救生舱等。

NASA Johnson Space Center

 

退役的 Saturn V 火箭

 

展厅里悬挂的宇航服

离Space Center不远有一个海边小城叫Kemah,沿海的Board Walk遍布了各种Boutique小店:玻璃制品,装饰品,首饰,衣服,帽子店… 看得我眼花缭乱。在一家叫Lost Iquana的店里竟然看到了卖地道中国纸扇的,还有古董食盒,各式的古董梳妆台,木头衣箱,每一样都让我爱不释手,就是可惜没银子买。 大伟挑了一把“难得糊涂”的纸扇作纪念,得意洋洋的假扮楚留香。逛完了小店,站在海边的游乐园边看小孩子坐超级翻转海盗船大头向下的吱吱尖叫,远处有星星点点的帆船。

Kemah的摩天轮

 

中午饭是在著名的Aquarium Restaurant吃的。这家店在休斯敦共有两家分店,其实在我们住的Hyatt附近就有,不过据说Kemah在海边的这家味道更好。餐馆共有三层,里面有三个巨型鱼缸, 其中一个圆柱型的更是从一层直通到三层。每个鱼缸里都有各式各样的闪闪发光的热带鱼。最大的鱼缸有500加仑水,三条鲨鱼,两条sting ray,一只海龟和无数叫不出名字的巨型鱼。每天上午11点和下午5点半的喂鱼时间所有的鱼都会出来,场面煞是壮观。客人吃饭的时候就坐在这些巨大鱼缸的旁边,边吃边看这些闪闪发光的水中精灵。天气好的时候客人还可以坐在二楼的平台上眺望不远处大海和帆船。当然restaurant最重要的还是吃啦!我要了一个香煎雪鱼,大伟点了fried shrimp sandwich。这个三明治比较特别,不是一般的面包夹心,而是用类似墨西哥卷饼的软薄饼把馅卷起来吃,里面不知道放了什么调味酱,香而不腻,好味的很。加上fried calameri(炸鱿鱼圈)作开胃,两个人吃了个沟满壕平外加打包:味道真是呱呱叫。下次来Houston这个地方我一定忘不了!吃饱喝足去看广场上的小孩和地面喷泉玩,一个个的都被淋得透湿,阳光下的笑容那么灿烂。旁边有很多carnival游戏,我和大伟去玩喷水游戏,每人一把水枪,面前有一个旋转的圆盘,圆盘中间有一个小孔,圆盘连着一个可以活动的柱子,柱子上有一个毛绒玩具。游戏的目的是把水射进这个小孔里,谁射得多,谁的玩具就上升的快,最快的一个人赢得自己柱子上的玩具。大伟一举夺魁,给我赢了个打拳击的Scooby Doo。我是满载而归,不过大伟就有些郁闷:跟我们一起玩的都是小孩子,他很不好意思赢了人家小孩,于是拉着我就跑。

水族馆餐厅内部

 

晚上自然是去泡吧,我们这两个不夜城来的人怎么能放过这样的机会好好比较两个城市的夜生活呢!在downtown走了一路,穿过无数条街,基本没有看到有现场表演的酒吧,看来休斯敦的夜生活跟New Orleans完全不是一个风格。后来倒是在一家餐厅的院子里看到有人在拉小提琴,我和大伟进去喝了个Martini, 烛光摇曳,微风习习,倒也很浪漫。逛逛走走,大部分的地方都是比较强劲的DJ音乐,看来也只能跳舞了。可惜跳舞的地方不是teenager聚集,就是需要加收门票并需super dress up的地方,大伟没穿皮鞋,进不去。 唉,休斯敦downtown的夜生活和我们这种习惯了现场爵士乐表演的休闲风格比较不吻合,一点都不来电。不过也许uptown会好些吧。

7月4号过得比较没有计划。上午去了百利大街的中国城买了一堆馒头,然后去老四川吃饭。地道的水煮肉和辣子鸡把我的胃都快烧化了。下午去看博物馆区的Menil collection。Menil collection是John and Dominique de Menil的私家珍藏,于1987年6月向大众开放。馆藏几乎一万五千件艺术品,大部分是现代艺术品,尤其是20世纪以后的超现实主义作品,比如毕加索的真迹。同时另外三区同时展出史前文物,拜震廷与中世纪作品,和种族部落艺术。只可惜我们来的时间不对,假日不开门。但是透过巨大的玻璃门还是能看到两幅巨大的花草油画,我一下子就被迷住了,以致后来回想起来心中还全是那斑斓的色块,遗憾了好久。博物馆所处的小区非常漂亮幽静,鸟语花香。大部分的房子都是single house,每栋都有自己的特色,很多是砖石结构的老房子,漂亮的雕花玻璃门们仿佛在诉说着房子里的秘密故事。偶尔会看到金发美女趴在树荫下的草坪上看书。如果将来住在Houston的话这个地方肯定是首选。没看成著名的Menil Collection, 我们去了第二个地方作代替:Museum of Fine Arts,不过没看到太多的让我心动的艺术品,可能是因为正在举办Latin American Inverted Utopia展览的缘故,雕塑品比较多,而我更喜欢看画。不过在二楼有玛雅文化的展览,很多早期雕塑的风格非常写实,真实到让人大吃一惊的程度。比如说一对裸体男女的小陶像,整体形象非常可爱,圆滚滚的好像动画片里一样,但是跟一般裸体雕塑的点到即至不同,裸女的下体被特意做出一道凹陷。我是头一次看到这么大胆写实的雕塑,又是快1000 年前的东西,很是意外呢。

Menil Collection

 

Menil Collection 大门

 

 

玛雅陶艺

 

晚上Houston Symphony在Miller Outdoor Theatre举办露天音乐会,之后燃放焰火。Miller Outdoor Theatre 位于休斯敦市中心的Herman Park中,近邻Rice University,环境十分优美。这里经常会举办免费的露天音乐会,是休斯敦人休闲的一个好去处。我们傍晚早早的就到了,在草地上占了个好位置,边吃边听。很多家庭也是全员出动,领着小孩,带着小狗,全家席地而坐。第一部分的交响乐大部分是爱国主义教育的传统曲目,中间也上来一个本地电台的知名主持人朗诵了一段歌颂独立战争中英勇捐躯战士的诗篇,看来爱国主义教育的形式真是世界大同啊。第二部分是脍炙人口的流行歌曲,我们旁边的大人小孩都是边听边唱,气氛十分热烈。最后一曲是柴可夫斯基的18进行曲,两边的15个炮台轮流发炮,场面十分壮观。礼炮也揭开了国庆焰火的序幕,所有的人都抬头望天,看美丽的礼花在夏日夜空绽放。空气里弥漫着淡淡的火药气味,混合着若有若无的青草味道和浓郁的烤热狗的香气。

露天音乐会

 

礼炮

 

在漫天的焰火中,我们起程开夜车回家。一路上,在5个车道的高速路最高处,无数的车都打着紧急灯停在路边欣赏美丽的焰火(大伟对美国的焰火十分失望,说还不如中国一个县城的规模,我就冲他吐舌头)。我们这两个小城市的小人物飞快的经过,努力追赶这个不属于我们的大城市的速度。大伟叹了口气说“回家啦!” 嗯,回家,真好。

 


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December 31st, 2006
Posted by admin | 短篇游记 | no comments


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圣安东尼奥逃难旅记


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圣安东尼奥逃难旅记

 

艾小柯

 

        2003年9 月14日,在南加勒比海形成的4级飓风Ivan (伊万)兵临美国墨西哥海湾,所有住在南部海湾的居民都如临大敌,尤其是New Orleans(新奥尔良)这个具有悠久历史的美国著名港口坐落于一片沼泽地中,整个城市位于海平面以下10英尺。如果飓风直接登陆扫荡,新奥尔良将变成一座水城,就好象电影“未来水世界”一般。从13日到14日早晨伊万形势越来越不妙,大部分学校已经停课,市长也紧急建议大家能走就走。13日晚全城出动购买应急物资,听说在Wal-mart(沃玛特超市)水和食物都基本上卖空了,最长的队要排一个半钟头,整个城市如大难临头一般,所有商店的玻璃都用木板钉了起来。

      我们本来是打算把窗户贴好,东西搬到高地再囤积点水粮严防死守的,后来形势日益严峻,朋友们也拼命的打电话商量走不走,走到哪里去。我们这才上网去紧急定酒店,那时候连休斯顿等在新奥尔良附近6小时路程内的范围都已经什么都定不到了。开始打算去圣路易斯朋友的家里躲两天,但后来要带上一个朋友,还是觉得诸多不便,就又试了试San Antonio(圣安东尼奥),正好我和大卫也早有到那里旅游的打算。没想到竟然让我们在www.hotwire.com上定到了当天在River Walk(圣安东尼奥市内的旅游景点,是一条沿河路)边上的三星级酒店,还特别便宜(一天才$55,税后)。所以最后临时决定向圣安东尼奥出发了。

      前10个钟头都是以每小时5到10英里的速度前进的。听说I-10(高速公路)上动都动不了,我们特意选了另一条人比较少的绕远的90号公路,可是都一样。路上被迫停下来无数次,看前后两面都是望不到边的车流,两旁都是沼泽,进退不得啊!尽管大家都很焦急的盼望能动起来,公路上仍然是秩序井然。我们后面的越南大婶偷空下车溜狗,右边的老哥干脆把左脚伸出窗外超级悠闲驾驶。我们也下了车无聊的在桥上找沼泽地里有没有藏着美国鳄鱼。在Lafayette(拉菲特),位于路易斯安那州西部)之前的加油站大多都没有87号油了,等着加高标号油的车挤满了小小的加油站。附近的小餐厅比如subway (赛百威) 什么的都关门了,好不容易找到一个厕所也要排队20分钟,闹得我在车上都不大敢喝水了!就这样蜗牛一般爬了10个钟头之后,终于于半夜12点开出了100英里之外的拉菲特,车速总算可以提高到50英里左右。4个小时之后到达休斯顿,车终于少了。我们快马加鞭在凌晨7点赶到了圣安东尼奥的旅馆。在前台签到的时候还不停听到有人给酒店打电话要求保留预定的房间,一问都是从路易斯安那逃难出来的,还在路上呢!

       一夜(其实是上午)无话。三个人大睡到下午三点起床,大卫不耐烦的等我们两个女生打扮停当之后,一行三人就开始了圣安东尼奥之旅。圣安东尼奥是德克萨斯州第二大城市,最著名的经典就是River Walk和Alamo (一座著名的教堂名称) 。小河哪里都有,没有什么特别的;不同的是经过两百多年的建造,圣安东尼奥河变成了一条风景秀丽的“地下河”。整个市中心街道“悬浮”于河岸之上,街角有或盘旋或风格现代的楼梯通入河边。一下楼梯简直豁然开朗!河水曲折蜿蜒,每隔几十米就会有如苏州园林般的石拱桥横跨而过。河中无数的鱼儿游来游去,成群结队的野鸭和鸳鸯向游人讨食。河两边五步一楼,十步一景,各种树木花草参差掩映,没有建筑的地方要么是各种风格的小喷泉,要么是色彩浓郁的马赛克图画。难怪美国人要称圣安东尼奥 是美国威尼斯了。河两旁的各种建筑除了酒店,最多的就是各种风格口味的餐厅了。每家餐厅都装饰得别具特色,墨西哥风格的会有穿着绿白红三色大圆裙的女侍在门口招徕顾客,意大利餐厅就用紧邻河岸的彩色拼花圆桌和美丽的餐具来吸引游人,一家叫“湘苑”的中国餐厅更是在门口挂起了无数展大红灯笼,窗内依稀的烛光让人想起了五百年前的梦幻秦淮。不过圣安东尼奥的秦淮河演奏的却是标准的墨西哥音乐。各家餐厅都有盛装打扮的墨西哥乐队巡回表演,有清一色的男子乐队,也有清一色的女子乐队,一般是5到6个人,大提琴,小提琴,萨克斯,吉他,单簧什么都有,而且个个都能唱。他们会走到在河边用餐的游客旁问需不需要音乐助兴,价格并不贵,什么曲子都会,即使不要,他们也都笑盈盈的离开。个人认为这么周到的服务最适合情侣周年纪念或者求婚啦!

 

River Walk

 

河边的Ben&Jerry冰激凌店

 

         我和同行的女生都是酷爱美食之人,自然哪家都不舍得放过,仔细研究放在门口的菜单;可惜是越看越迷惑,因为哪家的食谱都写得那么诱人,真是不知道该到哪大快哚颐。我们总共在River Walk吃了三次饭:15号晚上最终决定还是吃墨西哥餐。本来的克萨斯州以前就是墨西哥的领土,经过了Alamo战役独立出来后也还是保留了墨西哥的风格,建筑,美食,服饰。我们在Original Mexican (原味墨西哥餐厅) 点了最具特色的Nachos, Fajita和Enchilada。Nachos是类似炸薯片的一种开胃前盘,不同的是薯片上要浇上融化的奶酪和烤的烂熟的红豆,有的还要加上剁碎的烤鸡肉或牛肉,越吃越香。Fajita很有些中国铁板牛柳的味道,也是一个黑色的铁盘,吱吱冒着热气的端上来,里面有烤的外焦里嫩的牛肉或鸡肉,配上蔬菜沙拉,墨西哥炒饭,招牌烤红豆和酸奶油。吃的时候先拿一张类似于中国的荷叶饼的小圆面饼,把所有的东西都放进去卷起来,大咬一口,M, M, yummy (好吃)~~~. Enchilada是在美国非常流行的正规墨西哥菜,尤其是对于奶酪爱好者来说。一般的中国人可能会不太习惯奶酪的浓烈味道,我也是在美国生活了两三年后才开始爱上这种超级催肥厚重美味的。Enchilada的配菜和Fajita差不多,不同的是除了沙拉,各种东西都已经卷好放在小面饼里,之后小面饼上被浇上厚厚的融化了的奶酪,浓香四溢,美味异常。我们三个人是吃了个沟满壕平还剩了不少。没办法,这的盘子都超大!酒点了Margarita (马格利特,一种鸡尾酒)。这里Margarita都是超大杯,最大的有60盎司,大概有一斤半牛奶那么多,估计全喝完了肯定能一头载倒到河里变洛神!我不要做洛神,我的小鱼Gene还在新奥尔良朋友家里等着我回去呢,所以我只点了个16盎司的桃子味道margarita小酌一番。大卫要了当地的啤酒:Lone Star (孤星),看来德克萨斯人时刻不忘自己的孤星共和国啊!

露天墨西哥餐厅

 

鸡肉Fajita

 

孤星共和国

 

 

德克萨斯州旗

 

      吃饱喝足我们沿河前行,坐上了水上游船。时间刚好是下午6点左右,马上就要日落,温柔的阳光透过河岸边层层的树荫照上船来,两岸歌舞升平,那滋味真是神仙也难求!

        16号本来打算起个大早好好利用时间来弥补昨天多耗在路上的工夫,可惜闹钟没响,只好起来以后直接去吃中饭了。River Walk虽然在地图上看着挺长,可在河上的街道走起来却没多远:街道都是四平八达的不象自然形成的河道那么蜿蜒曲折。我们先走路去Alamo参观了一翻。这场200年前的著名战役在美国人心中就跟甲午海战一样壮烈神圣,歌曲诗词电影都在不停的传诵。Alamo原来是一座教堂,在德克萨斯州对抗墨西哥独裁者Santa Anna的战争中,32位勇士和近200名无名英雄退守于此和Santa Anna的大军对抗了13天,直到1836年3月6日寡不敌众,Alamo被攻陷,32位英雄全部阵亡。这场战役代表了德克萨斯人民顽强不屈争取自由的决心,更是美国英雄主义的实证。不过实话实说,对于我们三位传承5000年文明史,膜拜过无数古老战争的中国人来说,200年前的Alamo实在无法引起强烈的共鸣。尊敬是肯定的,而且十分感叹任何人都不用买门票来参观这么著名的文化遗址和博物馆,但我们只在Alamo逗留了40分钟左右就心不在焉的要深入River Walk去吃午饭了。

        Alamo就在River Walk边Hyatt (凯悦)酒店的对面。穿过Hyatt豪华的喷泉和一直通到酒店大堂的小桥流水,我们又回到了香气四溢的River Walk。这回不用挑来挑去了,我们直接来到了我上次来圣安东尼奥时超级称赞的County Line BBQ(乡村线烧烤)餐 馆。吃烤肉不用顾及形象,我们女生也都奋臂出袖,三个人风卷残云吃光了开胃蘑菇,烤猪排,牛排,沙拉,薯条和蒜容土豆泥。我们一致认为这顿真是吃的爽!吃饱了,River Walk也逛的差不多了,著名的5星级La Mansion酒店前Jennifer Lopez(珍尼佛.洛佩兹,美国著名影星)拍电影坐过的石拱桥上也留下了我们的倩影,下一步当然是去购物了!

La Mansion酒店

 

         虽说River Walk附近有一家超级大mall(购物中心),什么名牌应有尽有,但是更对我们这些穷学生胃口的却是在美国历史最悠久的墨西哥市场:Market Square (市场广场)。地方虽然不大,布局有点象批发市场,但是里面确实好店连连—-如果你也象我一样喜欢特色手工艺品。墨西哥风格的彩色大圆帽,木制雕塑,皮具马鞍马鞭马靴牛仔帽,不同型号的水牛角,各种银饰珠宝,墨西哥服装,色彩鲜艳的羊毛披肩挂毯,彩漆陶罐瓷器,缀满了各色珠子的女式背包,儿童玩具……看的我目不暇接,淹没在色彩的汪洋里。同学买了一对打磨精细的银耳环,大卫淘到了一顶黑色的超帅牛仔帽;我看上了一件极美的彩色条纹披肩,可惜太贵了。Market Square里除了购物,还有一家历史悠久的点心店加餐厅。买点心的人慕名而来要拿号排队。点心部的天花板挂满了红红绿绿的墨西哥剪纸和纸糊的彩色星星,餐厅墙上装饰着店主家的无数老照片。所有的女侍应都穿着红白绿相间的墨西哥泡泡袖上衣和大圆摆长裙,男的都是黑色镶金边的短款圆摆小夹克,白色高领衬衫和同样的黑色镶金紧腿裤,再加上黑色皮靴,真是帅呆了!

墨西哥点心店

 

        说到Market Square就不能不提提另一个类似的购物胜地:La Villita。西班牙语的意思是小村庄。紧邻圣安东尼奥河 ,这里是18世纪初的圣安东尼奥原址,现在被重新修复,有超过25位以上的艺术家和手工艺匠人在这里展示出售他们的作品。在这里你可以找到纯手工的墨西哥风格服装,披肩,各式矿石化石展览和制品,各种墨西哥手工艺品,玻璃艺术品,我们甚至花了10分钱的门票参观一个吹玻璃的老艺人制作玻璃旋转木马。在这里我终于找到了心爱的纪念品:一串紫色的石头切片风铃,回家后我可以把它挂在我美丽的前廊听新奥尔良秋风的叮咚。La Villita直通River Walk的出口正对着一个小型水上露天剧院,这就是Sandra Bullock(珊德拉.布鲁克)在电影“Miss Congeniality (选美小姐)”里面才艺表演的舞台啦!舞台左边是红顶白墙的墨西哥风格建筑,用作演员休息化妆室;再左边是又一道拱桥,连接到河对岸的观众席。演出的时候演员观众都是露天的,观众席也没有椅子,只有一层层象梯田一样的宽大石阶,石阶边缘是毛茸茸的草坪。观众就坐在这软软的草坪石阶上沐浴着和风享受表演。唉!这样惬意的日子真是神仙都不换啊!

水上露天剧院

 

      晚饭三个人都有吃不动的感觉:这两顿实在是吃得太好太多了!最后决定去吃稍微清淡的意大利菜。随便在River Walk找了一家餐厅,叫Italia,店面在二楼,从小阳台上俯视灯红酒绿的River Walk ,听着墨西哥乐队的悠扬歌声,真是舒服浪漫极了。菜点了最普通的Artichoke dip, Beef Lasagna和Eggplant Parmesan。Artichoke是形状类似佛手的一种蔬菜,在西式菜点中一般被煮熟后捣碎,搀入其它调味料成为沾酱,用面包或饼沾着吃。Lasagna是意大利面的一种。通常做法是烤制,将波浪状的大片意大利面一层层的铺到烤盘里,中间以蔬菜,肉或火腿和西红柿酱,奶酪粘结,是非常经典的意大利面做法。我们要的就是面中间放牛肉的这种。Eggplant Parmesan 是把茄子切圆片,用面包碎屑裹制后先炸,然后用番茄酱和奶酪连接两到三片,统一在烤箱里烤制。这家的蘸橄榄油面包和Artichoke dip尤其美味,其他的菜色味道一般,甜点做的不好。不过也难怪,跑到吃墨西哥菜的地方来吃意大利菜,难免会失望。不过给我们倒水的小服务生倒是个拉丁小帅哥,我们两个女生拉着他合照了一张照片,弄的腼腆的他脸红了半天。

      晚上回到酒店确定伊万飓风并没有直接袭击新奥尔良,而是根据预测转向了阿拉巴马州,我们都舒了口气。给朋友打了个电话得知新奥尔良除了刮了点风,连一滴雨都没下,而且阳光灿烂的天气好的不得了!他一早上起来看到出太阳了吓了一大跳,还以为身处风眼里了!所以这次是上帝保佑,化险为夷!不过阿拉巴马州就比较的不走运了,损失比较惨重。好在没有城市象新奥尔良一样是个“海下”城,所以即使淹水也不会那么严重。

     17号礼拜五回来的路上比较顺利,没有堵车,不过比国庆节我们从休斯敦回来的车流还是多了至少一倍。在休斯敦的中国城老四川吃了川菜,可惜不如上次来做的地道。大卫在附近的一个中国超市里扫荡了所有的馒头,这下我们9月就有好吃的了!这是我们在美国第一次逃难,还比较成功,选对了方向,同时游览了圣安东尼奥这个美丽的小城。其实圣安东尼奥还有很多地方我们没有时间去,比如King Williams community (威廉姆斯国王小区), 马桶博物馆,美国最大的海洋馆等。希望下次我们的美国威尼斯之旅不再是逃难!


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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
December 13th, 2006
Posted by admin | 短篇游记 | no comments