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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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两万里逃难记(25)


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2005年9月13日

       

走马观花盐湖城

           

         

盐湖城市中心最大的建筑群当属摩门教总部的广场。从南门进去,内部有无数来自世界各地学习摩门教义的兄弟姐妹。他们通常自费来到盐湖城,在这里住上56个月,期间充当义工,给来参观的游客导游。小柯一家的导游就是一名来自法国和一名来自西班牙的女孩。免费的游览有三条路线。 

                                 

第一条路线是参观摩门教总部广场内部。用作先知传教的巨大圆顶建筑Tabernacle正在加固翻新,很可惜无法进入内部参观。所以游览的第一站变成Assembly Hall,一个坐落在大庙左下脚的小教堂。教堂里正面是一排宏伟的管风琴铜管,整个会所经常被用作小型音乐会的场馆。教堂面前左方是一座黑色雕像,用来纪念最早到达犹他州的摩门教垦荒者。这些垦荒者到达的时候是七月,已经过了最佳的播种季节,所以当年的粮食收成并不太好。第二年好不容易要大丰收,可惜收成前三个礼拜开始闹蝗灾,一年的辛苦马上就要毁于一旦。教徒们无奈开始向上帝祈祷,也许是偶然,也许是垦荒者的虔诚感动了上帝,一群从大盐湖飞来的海鸥及时赶到,消灭了蝗虫,垦荒者一年的艰辛得以保存,今后的世世代代才能继续繁衍下去。所以教堂正前方树立了一座丰碑,上面是大盐湖的海鸥。海鸥从此成为犹他州的州鸟。

           

 

Assembly Hall内部

 

游览的下一站是最著名的摩门教大庙(Temple)。这座宏伟的教会建筑于1853年始建,用时四十年。因为当年的犹他州是一片荒蛮,建筑大庙的巨石都是从很远的落基山脉一点点运来的。说不定,正式因为建筑这些庞大的庙宇,犹他州境内的落基山脉才都如刀削一般拥有如此神奇的平顶呢!不尽大庙建得艰辛,刚才说的Assembly hall在建筑的时候也是费尽心计。大堂里面看上去象是大理石的柱子其实都是木头的,外面涂上大理石的花纹。教堂顶上树立的金像是一个天使,据摩门教义,就是她当年四次显灵,指引先知Joseph Smith找到古印第安人摩门写在金书页上,故名摩门教义的圣经补充读物,并把它从古埃及文翻译成英文。翻译完成后,也是这位天使收回了摩门金书,从此不知所终。 

                    

坐落在盐湖城的这座大庙是摩门教遍布全国庙宇中最古老的之一,甚至整个盐湖城中心都是以它为坐标建筑的,其东西南北四条大道分别叫东、西、南、北庙街,可见其在盐湖城人心目中的重要性。这样的庙宇和一般摩门教教堂的区别在于:教堂是面对全人类开放的,不管信教与否都可以随便进入;而摩门人认为庙宇是上帝与其子耶稣直接生活的地方,具有无比伦比的神圣性。一个教徒必须经过多年修行,确定抛弃一切浮华(比如说摩门教是禁烟禁酒的),保证心灵信仰的至上纯净,才可以进入庙宇。摩门教的受洗礼和婚礼也一定要在庙宇里进行。他们认为在庙宇里结成的亲人具有永生性,也就是说人死后无论如何转世轮回,仍然永远会和亲人在一起,这一点是摩门教与其他基督教的主要区别之一。盐湖城里的这座大庙是不对游客开放的,但是游客可以通过一些图片窥豹一斑,比如大庙里举行婚礼仪式的大厅,其所有布置都极其简洁,象征着放弃浮世繁华;大厅南北两面各有一面镜子,相互影射源源无穷,象征着永生的亲情。

       

第一条游览路线的最后一站是大庙西北边的教堂历史和艺术博物馆。一进门眼前就是一条色彩鲜明的螺旋上升通道,通道两旁的环形墙上是从底到天花板的蓝色宇宙和星球图像,配合庄严的宗教音乐,让人如置天堂,连呼吸都不敢大声。沿着螺旋通道上到二楼后,眼前是一座巨大洁白的耶稣雕像。这里就是游览的终点了。每位导游这时都会发给游客一张信息反馈卡,让游客写下心得,当然最重要的是姓名电话和家庭住址了,摩门教徒一向以传教的坚持不懈精神著名。信息反馈卡的主要目的是留下地址,好让当地的摩门教徒上门送上教义或者DVD,进行传教。小柯一家暂时无家可归,倒是省了解释的麻烦。 博物馆共有三层,除了二层的巨大耶稣雕像,每层的墙壁上都挂满了宗教油画或宗教雕像。地下一层还有两个电影放映厅,展示犹他州摩门先驱的艰苦生活和摩门教义宗旨。小柯一家无人信教,只作探索性的参观后就迅速离去:下午时间不多,还有很多著名建筑没有参观呢。    

               

不管在哪个建筑里,都有很多的摩门志愿者。就如同给我们免费导游的那两个小姑娘一样,这些来自世界各国的志愿着,以年轻姑娘居多,每当看到大概同种族国籍的游客就主动热情的迎上去问是否需要帮助导游,或者解答疑惑等等。刚开始小柯还觉得新鲜,感叹教会的富裕与好客,后来就有些不厌其烦了。因为不论哪位教徒,上来的第一个问题必然问“你从哪来”,而现在新奥尔良突然成了全美国最著名的城市,一下午里小柯至少解释介绍了我们的状况10次左右,后来几乎都说顺嘴了,张口就来。不过至少关于摩门教的一个重要问题小柯终于弄明白了。都说摩门是一夫多妻制,其实早已成为历史了。据博物馆里一位来自新西兰的年轻美女,当初的一夫多妻主要是因为摩门先驱到达犹他州后女多男少,为了生存不得已自然形成的制度,目前早已废止。如今任何宣扬一夫多妻的教徒都是背离了真正摩门教义,至少是盐湖城总部的这个摩门教义。如此说来,倒也合理:意识形态建筑是在物质基础之上的,存在即合理。

 

耶稣雕像

 

 

亚当和夏娃

 

第二条游览路线是大庙广场(Temple Square)背面的会展中心。这里面主要是参观如同人民大会堂一般气派宏伟,能容纳两万一千人的巨大会议大厅。会议大厅上面有一个艺术画廊,里面也都是与摩门教义和宗教故事相关的油画。对于想了解摩门教来龙去脉的人来说,这是非常好的“看图说话”场所。

 

会展中心

 

 

会议大厅

 

楼顶的sky light

会展中心里小柯最喜欢的是楼顶巨大的顶层花园。花园里所有的植物都是犹他州的本地植物,春夏之交的时候百花齐放,是一座无以伦比的色彩花园。可惜此时已入初秋,楼顶上只有大片的“草原”和无数高低错落的松树。站在“草原”后面俯瞰盐湖城市景,真难以相信自己竟站在一座高楼之巅,小柯的眼睛明明告诉大脑:“会当凌绝顶,一览众山小”。

                 

除了会展中心,另一个俯瞰盐湖城全景的地方是大庙广场东边的教会办公楼。作为全称最高的建筑之一,办公楼上面专门设有了望台。了望台下午5点关门,小柯一家于关门前10分钟赶到,总算没错过登高望山的机会。

 

 

俯瞰盐湖城中心

 

犹他州政府

 

第三条游览路线是参观犹他州摩门教先驱:Brigham Young的故居。时间已晚,小柯一家决定不如自行去参观办公楼旁边的原犹他大酒店。这座富丽辉煌的原犹他大酒店也是教会财产,10年前教会决定酒店卖烟卖酒,和摩门教义相悖,于是酒店关门大吉,现被改成办公楼出租。楼下一楼大厅供游人免费参观,同时开辟一部分空间建筑了一个寻源堂。所有游人都可以免费使用里面的电脑在互联网上寻找自己已故的亲人,建筑自己的家庭树(Family tree)。

 

    

 前犹他大酒店的侧面                                               舞厅的水晶吊灯

原犹他大酒店和摩门大庙中间有一座循环水池,水面平缓如镜,是个绝佳的照相地点。不同的角度可以把整座大庙或者酒店倒映在水面上,制造出一种奇异的视觉效果。喜欢摄影的朋友这个地点一定不要错过。

 

参观完,天色也开始变暗了。匆匆吃过晚饭后三个人找不到回旅馆的公共汽车站,结果坐上市区范围内免费的电动火车误打误撞到了著名的Delta Center。这里就是2002年冬季奥运会的速滑比赛场地,中国队就是在这里取得了冬奥会零的突破。Delta Center的对面是过去的太平洋联合火车站,现在被改成一座新潮时尚的购物中心,每到半点整点,广场中心的地上喷泉会随着雄壮的奥林匹克音乐喷出高低错落的水柱,又是盐湖城的一道美景。

 

Delta Center

 

联合太平洋火车站

 

候车大厅

 

一下午的旅程在8点左右正式结束。所参观的摩门教建筑和听到的宗教故事虽说不上多么令人赞叹,但至少让小柯一家暂时忘却了很多关于未来、现实的烦恼。公车还没有来,盐湖城初秋的风带着凉意瑟瑟袭来。小柯依偎在大伟怀里,想着逃难以来这些起起伏伏。不管有多么困难,明天的路终究还要走下去,不如重新抖擞精神,多想想一路以来看到的美景:这也是一种不可多得的人生经验。年轻的时候多经历一下,多体会一些,也从中得到很多珍贵的感悟。最重要的是我们一家人在一起共同患难,这份亲情爱情是我们最宝贵的财富。 晚上回到旅馆,msn上遇到了华人论坛音乐坊的歌友紫龙。聊了两句,得知我们的情况后,紫龙全家立刻决定慷慨解囊帮助我们度过难关。紫龙做这个决定的时候甚至连小柯的真名都不知道,这份恩情是我们无法以语言表述的。只希望小柯一家将来能够有机会以同样的善心去帮助如我们现在一样需要帮助的人,祝福紫龙一家人永远平安喜乐! 913日,车还没有修好,看来只有下一天再上路了。表弟沙鸥翔急等着面见UC Berkeley他们系的主任,决定最后他是否要暂时转学到那,于是一家商量过后决定让沙鸥翔单独先飞加州。现在逃难路上就剩下了小柯、大伟和可爱的Kiwi,希望明天能够按计划重续我们的西行之路,早日到达阳光加州。

             


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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 14th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments

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