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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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爱恨交织唐人街


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2006年9月19日

           

我快要搬家到旧金山来的时候,所有的人都说:“多幸福啊,到了旧金山,有那么大的唐人街,想吃什么就吃什么,想买什么就买什么,简直如同回国一样嘛!”

 

来到三藩三个礼拜,仔细想想这话真是不假。住在唐人街附近真是无比幸福的一件事啊。比方说,下班开车回家的时候可以顺路停在唐人街附近去买广式烧腊还有雪白的馒头与包子;想想家里菜不多了,随便哪个小超市外面都是摆得整整齐齐碧绿的青菜或者鲜艳的水果,几毛钱一磅比美国超市里不知道要便宜多少,买一大袋回去也不过几块钱而已;周末嘴馋了就有无数的川菜湖南馆还有广东早茶小店可以去打牙祭,点一大桌子花费却只有去美国餐馆的一半;想念中国的物件了,不管是武侠言情小说还是流行音乐碟片或者台湾香港杂志,说广东话买书报杂志的老大爷大妈们永远随处可见,更不必说Grant街上一家挨一家卖南北奇珍东西百货海鲜药材的百货商城……

 

与大部分90年代以后来到美国定居的新移民相比,这些生活在旧金山老唐人街范围内的老移民们更保留了无数传统的中国生活方式,有些方面甚至称得上复古,那架势只怕在大陆也仅能从影视剧里看到了。

 

我刚来美国那年在旧金山入关,第一次领略这全世界闻名的旧金山唐人街,不知道在哪条街上看到一个陈旧古朴的中草药店。开店的老爷子留着雪白的齐胸长髯,穿件暗银灰两面开襟领口盘扣的土布长袍,手里拎着个竹木红漆鸟笼子,笼里一只嫩黄红嘴小鸟嘤嘤而歌。这老爷子靠着门框站得气宇轩昂,身后一排黑漆草药抽屉大柜,每个方形小格上都贴着标签,用繁体的中文规规矩矩写下各种草药的名头。柜子侧面还挂着一杆吊银色秤砣的小秤,从门口经过,各种草药混合在一起又苦又香的味道扑鼻而来,我整个人惊愕得几乎要晕掉。

 

一个礼拜前再游老唐人街,七拐八拐绕进不知道什么名字的小巷,远远听见咚咚敲鼓的声响。沿着声音追寻过去,眼前竟然是一排整整齐齐花里胡哨的各色会馆。每个牌匾上的繁体大字都是从右至左方向,两边如同对联的文字中充满了“至尊”、“为公”这样的惊人字眼。二楼雕花栏杆后面虚掩的大门里隐隐约约一群人的身影,飞舞的鼓槌送出韵律强劲的鼓点,欢快喜悦的节奏伴着整齐的“嘿、嗨”盘旋在红墙碧瓦的飞檐翘角之上。一时间我的世界时空错乱,神魂颠倒。我还以为自己突然回到清朝末年或者民国初岁,如果此时耳旁再响彻歌手后弦那首《踢馆》,我一定以为自己不小心进入了什么影视城那!

 

其实这些“会馆”,并不是电视里那些弄拳踢腿的武术会馆,更不会有“踢馆”这样浪漫武侠的事件发生。这些“会馆”用现代中文来表述就相当于今天的“联合会”,“社区中心”等,有些是个人开办的协会组织,有些是社区联合的活动中心。不同的会馆有不同的政治倾向,常常看到两个邻近的会馆青天白日旗与五星红旗迎风招展同台竞艳的状况。考虑到旧金山这个民族文化种族政见宗教信仰的大熔炉,考虑到整个唐人街上英文国语广东话闽南话上海话共同繁荣的状况,这些个五花八门的会馆们和平共处就一点都不奇怪了。

 

逛唐人街,不仅有各种各样好吃的、好玩的,还有这么多好看的、好听的,比如说Grant街上无数拉二胡的大叔大爷,不管技艺如何,听到这些熟悉的乡音总让人觉得离家近了一步,总让人在异国他乡由衷品味浓浓的故情旧念。有这等许多好处的唐人街,怎能不叫人真心向往,不胸怀爱恋?

 

不过话又说回来,向往过了,爱恋完了,每当看到唐人街上这样或那样令人不舒服的状况,仍然要忍不住骂一骂种种令人气难舒意难平的地方,正所谓爱之深责之切也。

 

唐人街上令人第一不能忍受的是国人对国人的歧视。餐馆里的服务生金发碧眼的去了就笑脸相迎,一遇到黄皮肤黑头发讲中文的客人那脸色便如同夏天午后的对流雨,说变就变,完全没有商量的余地。如果说的是粤语还好些,旧金山的老唐人街上普通话是最不被欢迎的。这个时候哪怕店里再卖的是山珍海味,吃起来也变成如鲠在喉。冷冰冰的脸孔是中国餐馆的流行病,尤其小店,每位侍者似乎都有一段苦大仇深的历史,要么就是确信每位客人都欠款若干银两。在这种环境下吃饭,只求速战速决,那敢斗胆央求侍者屡次服务?如此用餐,小费自然给得心不甘情不愿,反正以后永远不来了;侍者接得怨声载道,心里暗骂“这几个小气鬼,****!”如此怨怨相报,无穷无尽。

 

除了直接与间接的歧视,唐人街的另一大特色是“脏”。Stockton街边海鲜市场里穿着塑胶雨鞋的大叔们不停把店里的脏水扫到外面,街上喜气洋洋卖蔬菜的大妈们在布满脏水与尘土的街道上铺下块塑料布就开始兜售良莠不齐的手工艺品和袋装蔬菜。大大小小的烧腊店挂满彤红金黄的各色漂亮肉食,不过外面肮脏的玻璃窗上的电光纸红字们上下都是厚厚的尘土。广东早茶店里无论桌椅还是油酱瓶上都蒙着肥腻的一层油渍,用来剪开美味马拉糕的大剪子不知道还剪过什么食物以至于边缘油亮乌黑。在唐人街吃饭这些关于清洁的问题是不能深究的,要么就干脆别去,省钱省事又省心。

 

到唐人街买菜虽然便宜得让人大跌眼镜,不过有时这过程也并不似想象那么令人愉快。放在店外的水果远看新鲜可人,走近了却发现上面尽是一个个的指甲印,留下来的这些可怜家伙们身负重伤,一道道瘀痕藏也没地方藏。其实掰叶撕皮也就算了,最不可思议的一次是某大妈为了查看柜台上罗列得整整齐齐自己却够不到的桃子,毫不犹豫的抓起来下面的一个个倒霉蛋,一个一个向上丢过去好把高处的桃子砸下来。可惜大妈抛物技巧不佳,可怜的桃子们乒乒乓乓的砸向橱窗后稀里哗啦滚落一地,不知道这样的命运一天要重复几次。

 

就是这样的唐人街,让人爱恨交织情感复杂。受了委屈想狠心再也不踏上那一亩三分地,可总有这样那样千丝万缕的关系吸引着人回去,去听去看去尝去想去感受。爱也好,恨也罢,不亲近是不行的。因为走得再远,心底也总有一个声音暗暗呢喃着,诉说着,诉说着什么叫做——血脉相连。


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February 21st, 2008
Posted by aixiaoke | 短篇游记, 我的旧金山 | no comments

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