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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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舞狮


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 2007年2月20日

             

中午去唐人街吃饭,回来的路上赶巧碰到了某个饭馆门口舞狮子的。

 

这个舞狮团大概是唐人街里某武馆的队伍,人人身上一件整齐划一的明黄背心,上面用中、英文写着武馆大名。一金一银两个狮子,四个年轻小伙子“领舞”,其余十来个人推着大鼓敲着铜锣,在指挥的统一指导下鼓乐齐鸣。两个狮子,毛茸茸的大脑袋,屁股撅老高,摇头摆尾兴高采烈。前面负责狮子头的那个人不时要跳起来,偶而还要一跃踩上后面负责狮子屁股那个人的肩头。别看这狮子头花花绿绿假得很,可镶着一圈粉白毛毛的狮子耳朵会随着鼓点一上一下的呼扇,狮子铜铃铛般的大眼睛也一开一合的眨着眼,又可爱又神气!

 

这舞狮团可不是白舞的。狮子走到了店家门口,是要先进去索要红包的,不给,两个大狮子就一扭一扭的不走,门外的鼓点也一阵急似一阵:哪个抠门的老板拉得下脸来不在大过年的时候讨个吉利啊!这舞狮团刚才弄没弄到红包我没看见,不过倒是眼见着店里人给拎出来一大木盆瓜果蔬菜摆到场地中央。金银二狮卖力开舞,银狮子还蹲下去,用“嘴”把木盆“衔”到自己眼前,从中“叼”出一颗翠绿滚圆的大白菜,一甩头含进嘴里,左摇右摆了一会,再一甩头一松嘴,这圆咕隆冬的大白菜就如同绣球一样从银狮嘴里被抛到金狮嘴里了。金狮抢到白菜后毫不客气的“大嚼大咽”,“嚼”了两口还兴高采烈的一仰头一张嘴,“哗”吐出一大口白菜叶,跟天女散花使的撒得满地都是。估计这就表示狮子吃高兴啦!

 

狮子高兴了,我们观众看得也高兴。只见这四个小伙子步伐稳健,前面两个负责狮子头的更是上下翻飞,花花绿绿的刹是喜庆。舞到最后,金狮银狮每个嘴里叼上一个大红金边的卷轴,狮子头抬起来,前面的小伙子站到后面那个的肩旁上,然后“哗啦”一下,两个卷轴齐齐放下来,上面写着“生意兴隆,财源滚滚”八个金漆大字,然后鞭炮噼啪啪响起来。这个新春头彩讨得,真是又吉祥又喜气!

 

三藩城里的唐人街啊,仿佛把中国的传统热闹项目都用冰箱冻起来保存在了这遥远的一方土地之上了似的。赛龙舟、舞金狮、放鞭炮、闹花灯,一项一项该热闹该庆祝的时候都不输于国内。这样纯朴又热闹的过新年,我在中国的时候也不曾体会过呢!


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February 21st, 2008
Posted by aixiaoke | 短篇游记, 我的旧金山 | no comments


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三藩寻鬼记


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2006年10月31日

 

刚搬进三藩海边的小公寓时,邻居们神神秘秘的说:“你知道么,你家对门可是个名人啊!”像我这么八卦的人,听完立刻就激动起来了,“什么,名人,哪个名人?”

  

当然,电视电影上总出现的名人都住豪宅,自然不会蜗居在小小的公寓里。不过我家对门在三藩市还真是位本地名人呢,他出门总被认出来,合影打招呼那更是家常便饭。当然他的穿着打扮也十分与众不同:长长的皮风衣,红马甲,黑灰的卷曲长发乱乱的披在肩膀,小圆眼镜,黑色长皮靴,手提一盏气死风灯。这样古典的打扮,不引人注目还真有些困难。说了半天,这位名人邻居究竟是做什么的?

       

原来,他就是三藩寻鬼游的导游——吉穆。鬼节的前一天晚上,我与大伟终于去参加了这个著名的寻鬼之旅。听鬼故事我一向是感兴趣的,不过吉穆的导游与其他的鬼怪之旅有个明显的区别:吉穆的故事都是有明确文献记载的,很多故事,还有吉穆本人,都上过发现电视台的特别节目。除此之外,吉穆在导游过程中会带领游客亲自感受灵异力量,当然他的幽默小笑话们也极有特色。

        

因为靠近鬼节,来参加寻鬼有的“鬼友”们还真不少。晚上7点在距今一百多年历史的Queen Anne旅馆聚集了五十多号人马,第一个钟头先听吉穆狂砍自己从小与鬼们打交道的经历,还有就是这百年老楼的鬼怪历史。这个Queen Anne旅馆一百年前是个女子寄宿学校,校长玛丽小姐把全身心都投入了对年轻女孩的教育当中。可惜九年后学校莫名其妙关了门,变成了“绅士俱乐部”,玛丽小姐也失踪了。百年后 这栋老房子多次转手,直到现在金碧辉煌的Queen Anne旅馆。不过玛丽小姐的鬼魂似乎从未接受这样的转变,仍然固执的守候着她付出全部心血的学校。来旅馆住宿的客人曾经多次报告说见过身穿白色古式长裙的女子在四楼与二楼的走廊逡巡,更有无数位住进410房间的客人说半夜有人给整理被子,最常见的情况是睡醒后发现身上盖着一条小毯子,而且毯子边儿被密密实实的塞进身子下面,把整个人都包裹起来。

       

Queen Anne Hotel大厅

       

 

401房间

       

 

Hotel里极具三藩特色的金红装饰座钟

     

与玛丽相遇过的客人全都说玛丽给人带来一种极为平缓舒适的感觉,是最为友好的鬼魂。玛丽不仅关心客人睡眠,还喜欢跟人坐在一起,甚至有时轻抚人胳膊。如果你在旅馆里四处乱逛或者坐在人家上百年历史的古董家具上,突然发现身边出现一个温度极低的空间,这就是“冷点”,也就是鬼魂实体了。冷点与屋里其他地方的温度差别能超过华氏20度,能明显感受到冷点的边界。一次吉穆导游时来了一群八到十一岁的小女孩,玛丽的鬼魂立刻就出现了。小女孩们纷纷伸手感受冷点的边界,然后大家一起比出冷点的形状——人形圆柱体。

         

当然不是所有的鬼魂都像玛丽这样温柔可爱。离开Queen Anne旅馆,一群人在吹着冷风的夜幕中就着气死风灯的一点点微光前行,下一个停留处是位于LagunaCalifornia(加州大道)交接处的白色豪宅。这里的鬼魂叫弗萝拉,是三藩市最常被报道现形的鬼魂。出生于十九世纪末弗萝拉本是富家小姐,被家族安排要嫁给一个有钱有势的老头。弗萝拉考虑再三决定逃婚,她家人在当时悬赏五十万美金也没有她的任何消息。弗萝拉一个弱女子,在那个时代选择逃离富足的家庭是极其需要勇气的“壮举”,而她本人也一生孤苦无依,五十年后客死费城。弗萝拉的尸体被运回旧金山后草草安葬,从此她的鬼魂就开始频繁出现在加州大道上。一次一整街车的游客看到了半透明的弗萝拉在街上面无表情的走过;吉穆在导游过程中游客也数次看到弗萝拉穿着白色带硬领子的拽地长裙在街头飘移。

       

除了弗萝拉,吉穆在接下来的两个小时中还介绍了其他著名鬼魂与他们的“现住宅”,比如Octavia街上每住进新房客必有鬼魂现身欢迎的公寓大楼,比如旧金山最著名的,得到新奥尔良巫毒皇后亲传,丑闻缠身一辈子的马利埃伦等等。不过最最不可思议的是位于Sacramento街上的采银大亨陈博斯家族豪宅。

       

陈博斯家族里两个早就相互嫉妒诋毁的姐妹继承了相距不过几十尺的两幢豪宅。十九世纪末时三藩还没有现在的规模,大部分豪宅拥有自己的小农场,用来养殖自家食用的肉禽等。其中一位叫克洛缔娅的某日被发现惨死在自己豪宅靠近右门的小室中,陈博斯家族对外宣布是“农场事故”;不过据吉穆的调查结果,陈博斯家族蓄意销毁了很多相关文献记载,而克洛缔娅死时是几乎被砍为两半的,当时一般家庭的小型农场根本没有如此巨大可以劈人为两半的农器。陈博斯家族的豪宅在事件发生后辗转经手,前几年本是一超级豪华旅馆,后来不知什么原因酒店被改造,成为两个独立的豪华公寓出售。右边那半,五个卧室,六个半盥洗室,居住面积在五千尺以上的超级公寓几年前竟然只卖出了三百七十五万的超低价格——要知道同一地段两千尺左右的住房就能达到一百至两百万的售价啊!

       

酒店还没被改造前,吉穆的会带领游人在里面详细讲解,无数灵媒、灵异现象研究中心的人员也都来这里调查过。根据不同灵媒的通灵记载,以及吉穆在导游过程中,一位来自洛杉矶的谋杀重案组警察被附体的经历,克洛缔娅“本人”描述自己是被一位表亲用刀砍,一路从豪宅中被追杀至右门小室而最终死亡的,整个过程极为痛苦血腥。这与吉穆导游过程中,无数游客在进入右门小室的时候有“如入泥塘”般难以挪步是相吻合的。

 

豪宅现在的主人们极其不喜欢吉穆,曾数次以各种理由叫警察来驱逐吉穆与游人:也难怪,谁愿意把房子闹鬼的事情宣布的全世界皆知呢。但不管如何,现在豪宅里的花草种植都是依循章法的,据说是加勒比海某国防厉鬼的秘方——不管是不是真有鬼,豪宅里的人小心谨慎是一定的。

       

其实我对鬼魂也是将信将疑,但这世界上有太多科学原理所无法解释的奇异现象,所以保留一个开阔的,接受不同解释的心态还算健康。但吉穆下面做的事情,却大大出乎我的意料。

       

吉穆把几十号人聚集在一起,借着街灯从红色马甲侧面的小兜里掏出一把生了绣的老钥匙,让大家仔细观瞧。据吉穆说,这把钥匙是他从一个古董商处获得,传说此钥匙来自于陈博斯家族,而克洛缔娅的鬼魂只要见了这把钥匙,就要把它向某个方向转动,似乎要打开什么被尘封的密室,让某些失传的秘密重见天日。这个传说是否属实我不得而知,不过这钥匙的神奇却在昨晚亲眼得见。

     

吉穆伸出右手把钥匙放于掌心,手掌摊平,让一个游客握住他的手腕,另一个握住他的手指们,证明他的手是没有任何移动的;我们所站的位置是个小小下坡,钥匙比较沉的部分面对的是下坡方向,风也是从上坡向下坡方向吹动的——钥匙的移动至少不是重力或风力因素。吉穆的手掌是东西方向,这样钥匙基本是南北方向,磁场应该也不会影响钥匙。一切准备就绪,吉穆伸平手掌,几十对眼睛睁得一个比一个大,直勾勾的盯着小小的钥匙。奇迹发生了,那钥匙真就在众人眼皮底下慢慢翻动了,开始十分缓慢,动到一半的时候,速度突然加快,一下子翻了过来。大家都不知该说什么好,这时吉穆让游客中一个漂亮的金发美女出来亲自试验,钥匙也如上次一样,在毫无人力帮助的情况下慢慢翻了个身。

       

要是一般人,故事讲到这也就完了,无非感叹一下这把钥匙的神奇,或者克洛缔娅鬼魂的执著等等。不过谁让我是吉穆的邻居呢,总要有些特殊待遇才对。于是在游览结束后,吉穆开车带我与大伟共同回公寓大楼,我就借着邻居之便,特意把这钥匙借来仔细观祥。其实就是一把锈迹斑斑的大铁钥匙,带齿的一头最沉,圈的那头相对较轻。小柯把钥匙放在手上,等了半天钥匙也没动,真是令人泄气。问吉穆,果然这实验不是每次都成功的,最好在陈博斯家族豪宅前,而且要选择特定气场之人。有的人对灵异现象看得比较开明,或者说具有容易吸引灵异物质的体质;而有的人用中国风水说法就是“阳气太重”,这些召唤鬼魂的把戏就不灵啦。

     

尽管如此,我把钥匙放在手里的时候,大伟竟然也拍出来一张“灵异”照片。当然事后分析,一定是相机抖或者我的手动了,以至于快门按下的时候我的手与钥匙产生了部分重叠,但那钥匙似乎变成半透明的效果还是把我们吓了一跳——克洛缔娅的鬼魂还是在自家门前显灵就好啦!

    

     

三藩寻鬼,足足三个小时,听了不少好故事,穿插着关于旧金山的建筑特色与历史事件,还有吉穆的特色笑话们。虽然整晚上看到唯一的鬼是鬼节里人家装饰在阳台上的“熊猫棉花鬼”,可不知不觉的,我们离这个城市又近了一步。


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February 21st, 2008
Posted by aixiaoke | 短篇游记, 我的旧金山 | no comments


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爱恨交织唐人街


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2006年9月19日

           

我快要搬家到旧金山来的时候,所有的人都说:“多幸福啊,到了旧金山,有那么大的唐人街,想吃什么就吃什么,想买什么就买什么,简直如同回国一样嘛!”

 

来到三藩三个礼拜,仔细想想这话真是不假。住在唐人街附近真是无比幸福的一件事啊。比方说,下班开车回家的时候可以顺路停在唐人街附近去买广式烧腊还有雪白的馒头与包子;想想家里菜不多了,随便哪个小超市外面都是摆得整整齐齐碧绿的青菜或者鲜艳的水果,几毛钱一磅比美国超市里不知道要便宜多少,买一大袋回去也不过几块钱而已;周末嘴馋了就有无数的川菜湖南馆还有广东早茶小店可以去打牙祭,点一大桌子花费却只有去美国餐馆的一半;想念中国的物件了,不管是武侠言情小说还是流行音乐碟片或者台湾香港杂志,说广东话买书报杂志的老大爷大妈们永远随处可见,更不必说Grant街上一家挨一家卖南北奇珍东西百货海鲜药材的百货商城……

 

与大部分90年代以后来到美国定居的新移民相比,这些生活在旧金山老唐人街范围内的老移民们更保留了无数传统的中国生活方式,有些方面甚至称得上复古,那架势只怕在大陆也仅能从影视剧里看到了。

 

我刚来美国那年在旧金山入关,第一次领略这全世界闻名的旧金山唐人街,不知道在哪条街上看到一个陈旧古朴的中草药店。开店的老爷子留着雪白的齐胸长髯,穿件暗银灰两面开襟领口盘扣的土布长袍,手里拎着个竹木红漆鸟笼子,笼里一只嫩黄红嘴小鸟嘤嘤而歌。这老爷子靠着门框站得气宇轩昂,身后一排黑漆草药抽屉大柜,每个方形小格上都贴着标签,用繁体的中文规规矩矩写下各种草药的名头。柜子侧面还挂着一杆吊银色秤砣的小秤,从门口经过,各种草药混合在一起又苦又香的味道扑鼻而来,我整个人惊愕得几乎要晕掉。

 

一个礼拜前再游老唐人街,七拐八拐绕进不知道什么名字的小巷,远远听见咚咚敲鼓的声响。沿着声音追寻过去,眼前竟然是一排整整齐齐花里胡哨的各色会馆。每个牌匾上的繁体大字都是从右至左方向,两边如同对联的文字中充满了“至尊”、“为公”这样的惊人字眼。二楼雕花栏杆后面虚掩的大门里隐隐约约一群人的身影,飞舞的鼓槌送出韵律强劲的鼓点,欢快喜悦的节奏伴着整齐的“嘿、嗨”盘旋在红墙碧瓦的飞檐翘角之上。一时间我的世界时空错乱,神魂颠倒。我还以为自己突然回到清朝末年或者民国初岁,如果此时耳旁再响彻歌手后弦那首《踢馆》,我一定以为自己不小心进入了什么影视城那!

 

其实这些“会馆”,并不是电视里那些弄拳踢腿的武术会馆,更不会有“踢馆”这样浪漫武侠的事件发生。这些“会馆”用现代中文来表述就相当于今天的“联合会”,“社区中心”等,有些是个人开办的协会组织,有些是社区联合的活动中心。不同的会馆有不同的政治倾向,常常看到两个邻近的会馆青天白日旗与五星红旗迎风招展同台竞艳的状况。考虑到旧金山这个民族文化种族政见宗教信仰的大熔炉,考虑到整个唐人街上英文国语广东话闽南话上海话共同繁荣的状况,这些个五花八门的会馆们和平共处就一点都不奇怪了。

 

逛唐人街,不仅有各种各样好吃的、好玩的,还有这么多好看的、好听的,比如说Grant街上无数拉二胡的大叔大爷,不管技艺如何,听到这些熟悉的乡音总让人觉得离家近了一步,总让人在异国他乡由衷品味浓浓的故情旧念。有这等许多好处的唐人街,怎能不叫人真心向往,不胸怀爱恋?

 

不过话又说回来,向往过了,爱恋完了,每当看到唐人街上这样或那样令人不舒服的状况,仍然要忍不住骂一骂种种令人气难舒意难平的地方,正所谓爱之深责之切也。

 

唐人街上令人第一不能忍受的是国人对国人的歧视。餐馆里的服务生金发碧眼的去了就笑脸相迎,一遇到黄皮肤黑头发讲中文的客人那脸色便如同夏天午后的对流雨,说变就变,完全没有商量的余地。如果说的是粤语还好些,旧金山的老唐人街上普通话是最不被欢迎的。这个时候哪怕店里再卖的是山珍海味,吃起来也变成如鲠在喉。冷冰冰的脸孔是中国餐馆的流行病,尤其小店,每位侍者似乎都有一段苦大仇深的历史,要么就是确信每位客人都欠款若干银两。在这种环境下吃饭,只求速战速决,那敢斗胆央求侍者屡次服务?如此用餐,小费自然给得心不甘情不愿,反正以后永远不来了;侍者接得怨声载道,心里暗骂“这几个小气鬼,****!”如此怨怨相报,无穷无尽。

 

除了直接与间接的歧视,唐人街的另一大特色是“脏”。Stockton街边海鲜市场里穿着塑胶雨鞋的大叔们不停把店里的脏水扫到外面,街上喜气洋洋卖蔬菜的大妈们在布满脏水与尘土的街道上铺下块塑料布就开始兜售良莠不齐的手工艺品和袋装蔬菜。大大小小的烧腊店挂满彤红金黄的各色漂亮肉食,不过外面肮脏的玻璃窗上的电光纸红字们上下都是厚厚的尘土。广东早茶店里无论桌椅还是油酱瓶上都蒙着肥腻的一层油渍,用来剪开美味马拉糕的大剪子不知道还剪过什么食物以至于边缘油亮乌黑。在唐人街吃饭这些关于清洁的问题是不能深究的,要么就干脆别去,省钱省事又省心。

 

到唐人街买菜虽然便宜得让人大跌眼镜,不过有时这过程也并不似想象那么令人愉快。放在店外的水果远看新鲜可人,走近了却发现上面尽是一个个的指甲印,留下来的这些可怜家伙们身负重伤,一道道瘀痕藏也没地方藏。其实掰叶撕皮也就算了,最不可思议的一次是某大妈为了查看柜台上罗列得整整齐齐自己却够不到的桃子,毫不犹豫的抓起来下面的一个个倒霉蛋,一个一个向上丢过去好把高处的桃子砸下来。可惜大妈抛物技巧不佳,可怜的桃子们乒乒乓乓的砸向橱窗后稀里哗啦滚落一地,不知道这样的命运一天要重复几次。

 

就是这样的唐人街,让人爱恨交织情感复杂。受了委屈想狠心再也不踏上那一亩三分地,可总有这样那样千丝万缕的关系吸引着人回去,去听去看去尝去想去感受。爱也好,恨也罢,不亲近是不行的。因为走得再远,心底也总有一个声音暗暗呢喃着,诉说着,诉说着什么叫做——血脉相连。


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February 21st, 2008
Posted by aixiaoke | 短篇游记, 我的旧金山 | no comments