Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::start_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::start_lvl($output) in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/classes.php on line 515

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::end_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::end_lvl($output) in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/classes.php on line 515

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/classes.php on line 515

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::end_el() should be compatible with Walker::end_el($output) in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/classes.php on line 515

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_PageDropdown::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/classes.php on line 534

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::start_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::start_lvl($output) in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/classes.php on line 622

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::end_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::end_lvl($output) in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/classes.php on line 622

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/classes.php on line 622

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::end_el() should be compatible with Walker::end_el($output) in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/classes.php on line 622

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_CategoryDropdown::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/classes.php on line 647

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/classes.php:515) in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/wpmu-functions.php on line 69

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/classes.php:515) in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/wpmu-functions.php on line 70

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/classes.php:515) in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/wpmu-functions.php on line 71
四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25


Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 776

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 320
三合粥粉面


Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 81

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 87

2007年5月13日

           

  旧金山的唐人街很有名,而唐人街上最有名的头一号就是这三合粥粉面店。

      

  餐馆本身门脸很小,破旧肮脏的牌子支在狭窄阴暗的入口上面,看起来实在没半点吸引力 。   站在门口向里面瞅一眼,嘈杂的厨房,一位头发蓬乱油腻的大叔在发黑的破木案板上切红得极鲜艳的叉烧,小隔断后面是简陋的灶台,两个围着已经变作灰色污渍斑斑的围裙的厨师跳出来,手指着旁边只容一人通过又陡又窄又暗的楼梯大声嚷嚷:“楼上楼上!走!走!”    

        

  我乖乖的走进这黑洞一样的地方,一级一级小心的上着楼梯。转了个弯,面前一个十平房左右的厅,从入口到窗口短短的几米,左边被用作放碗筷盘盏,橱柜前面四个大白塑料桶用来放垃圾,一叠叠的塑料大托盘就放在这些桶上面。右边是六、七个窄小的桌子,每桌都坐满了人。留齐耳短发穿蓝色T恤的服务生大姐正眼都不瞅我们,眼睛一瞟手一挥,“上楼上楼!”

        

  于是我继续转弯,上台阶。这个树洞一般的小楼究竟有几层?

          

  今天人不算太多,只到了三楼就有空桌子。我们随便拣了个靠窗户的位子坐下,透过窗户里面的弯曲铁栏杆向外看,暖暖的太阳照在克雷街上熙熙攘攘的人群身上,大大小小的店铺牌子都泛着金光。

             

         等了五分钟,服务生大姐还是没来。       

           

         我很有耐心。上来先怠慢一下,这正是三合的特色。要知道,这种怠慢可不是为了吸引游客故意而为的:这个树洞楼,一层一层又一层,就一个服务生,她忙不过来啊。

               

         这家三合粥粉面店在二十世纪初就开始营业了。五十年代越战后“垮掉的一代”文学运动中最著名的领导人,写出不朽《在路上》的杰克·克鲁亚克和《嚎叫》的作者艾伦·金斯堡据说就常在这里聚会宵夜。传说曾经在“六画室”朗诵诗歌《浆果盛宴》标志着旧金山文艺复兴运动兴起的盖瑞·施耐德就是在这里教会杰克使用筷子的。

         

         不过,垮掉一代的历史尽管为三合奠定了在旧金山唐人街无以伦比的历史地位,但却不是让它名扬世界的直接原因。三合最出名的,是现已过世的曾经世界第一牛的服务生——Edsel Ford Fong。这位无比粗鲁凶暴以侮辱客人破口大骂为快的侍者老头被作家阿米斯代德·莫平写进了他的小说《Tales of the City》,并被改成了同名电影。在莫平的笔下,这位神人服务生对客人采取了法西斯式的命令管理方法,大喊大叫,出言侮辱,盘子丢得硑硑响,说不定手一滑腕一抖哪位食客的脑袋就要遭殃! 

          

         我不知道如果这位Edsel Ford Fong仍然健在,自己能否鼓起勇气也来自虐一把。现在的三合,尽管这位神侍已然不在,可他的精神,却早留在了这些油渍斑斑污泥零星的砖墙里了,每年吸引无数游客从世界各地来“体验生活”。                        

  等了半天,服务生大姐终于跑了上来——这位年纪大概三十多的女人似乎一直都是用跑的。我们前面还有三个十七八的美国小孩,也乖乖的坐在一边等着,桌上连杯水也没有。

                                

  “你,你,还有你,现在,跟我下去。”大姐对着美国小孩们命令道。

         

  “我们呢?”我赶紧问。

          

  两个塑封了的菜单向我飞过来:“你先等着。”

          

  五分钟后,我也被带下去,安排在一个靠过道的小桌子旁。尽管落座了,点菜还要等——一屋子人都等着点菜呢,得按顺序来。

            

  我的位置正对着刀叉盘盏橱,旁边的墙上是个竖长方形的开口,里面一个不锈钢侧面开放的双层盒子,如同一个简陋的手动电梯,用作楼上楼下传递饭食碗碟。每次楼下把盘子放到盒子里就按铃,上面服务生要如同从深井打水似的拼命拽绳子,把“电梯”吊上来——这活看起来可着实不轻松呢。我正端详着,窗边五人一桌点完菜了,服务生大姐一边跑过来把单子拴在“电梯”黑漆漆的脏绳甩到一楼厨房去,一边拎起来两双筷子,啪一声丢到我们桌上来,一声都不吭就又跑回窗口另一桌点菜去了。

          

  又等了十分钟,总算轮到我们了。

          

  这位大姐好歹不是Edsel Ford Fong,尽管彪悍了些,但还是为这无穷无尽的等待道歉的,解释说太忙啦。我马上点头表示理解,正打算问她什么是“卷粉”,旁边手动“电梯”的电铃“嘟、嘟”响了两声——这是饭好了楼下厨房在催呢。大姐丢下我们,走到楼梯口用歌剧女高音振聋发聩的嗓音全力向楼下喊“来啦来啦!”本来嘈杂的小屋子霎时间就安静了,只听见她的声音嗡嗡回荡着。我们与邻桌的三个美国小孩面面相觑,大家一起吐舌头做鬼脸。

            

  服务生大姐回来先忙着给刚才要饮料的桌分东西喝,好一会儿才又想起来我们。我赶紧毕恭毕敬的迅速报上菜名,什么话都不敢多说——这未彪悍的大姐我可不敢惹呀,管他什么是“卷粉”,反正端上来就知道了。

             

  上菜的时候又是一场疯忙。

             

  “谁点的甜酸鸡米饭?番茄牛?谁的叉烧炒粉?” 举着盘子的大嗓门超级夸张的响着。那边马上有人举手,不敢怠慢。


  盘子敲击的声音砰砰响,手动“电梯”上上下下按铃“嘟嘟”叫,服务生大姐飞来飞去。钢叉子们放在一个脏纸盒里,费好大劲垫起脚尖才能够到,弄得盒子哗哗啦啦。在这样的环境里,我发现自己原来根本不是来吃饭的,我是这活生生小剧场的演员,正配合着女主角的服务生大姐,卖力的上演这这幕叫“三合粥粉面”的舞台剧那!

             

  从垮掉的一代到新时代移民,表演都很精彩。作为奖励的“卷粉”,味道竟真的不错。 


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
May 6th, 2008
Posted by aixiaoke | 旅途轶事, 我的旧金山 | no comments

No Comments »

No comments yet.

Leave a comment