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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25


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三藩初体验


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2006年8月25日 

  

一路奔波,终于来到了此行的目的地旧金山市。

    

我们小小的公寓在北部意大利区靠近海岸线的地方,目光越过窗外火柴盒一样方方正正漆成深红的小楼就是深蓝色的海水和上面星星点点的白帆。海的中心是当年据说无人能逃无人敢逃囚禁重刑犯人的恶魔岛(Alcatraz),现在岛上监狱早已废弃,小岛也被开发成三藩市的著名旅游景点。夜晚的时候岛上灯塔的光柱特别明显,一明一灭的正扫射到我们的卧室。如果仔细听,黑暗中的海鸥与不远处渔人码头上海狮们的叫声此起彼伏,仿佛夜曲般缠绵。

         

在新奥尔良住了六年,早已习惯了没有坡度完全水平的地面,三藩上上下下的大坡小丘真苦了大伟。一路上本来自动挡的汽车要按照手动档一样双脚并用来起、停,大伟一手握方向盘另一手还不忘攥紧手动刹车随时待命。一个坡一个街区的过去,我们如同坐在云霄飞车上面陡降陡升。碰到太陡的大坡,耳朵甚至会如同飞机起降时一般鸣叫起来。

        

住下四五天,从四壁空空开始一点一点用乱七八糟的东西填满这方小小空间。不停外出采买的同时也连带开始熟悉起这片街区起来。公寓附近就是直通中国城的哥伦布街,这条吊角斜 插过方方正正街区们的大路从早到晚都是歌舞升平,华灯璀璨。等红灯的时候总能看见兴高采烈的游客从面前经过,或者喝醉了的年轻人大声喧哗着踩着舞步跃过斑马线,还有迷你超短裙的浓妆金发吧女举着大盘五颜六色的鸡尾酒不知道要进去哪家霓虹世界。哥伦布街与华盛顿街斜斜交口的地方更是有幢绿色老楼霸气十足的矗立着,不知道多少年的历史孕育出墨绿外表上黑色年代纹络的华贵。每次看到这幢大楼,我总要莫名其妙的想起《倩女幽魂》里吸足了人间精气的黑山老妖,因为那景象实在奇特的完全不真实,只有电影中才该现身。而这样的城市景观也让我强烈的怀念起新奥尔良的法国区来:同样的张狂与迷幻,似乎每个窗角每个台阶都有什么精彩故事正在上映。不过这里更加国际化,五颜六色的服饰与五颜六色的脸孔,透出只有大都市才有的无畏气概。

          

不仅城市里各色种族各国语言交汇融通,就连我们小小的公寓楼也算个小联合国了。二楼的阿拉伯大爷已经在楼里住了快四十年,他儿子穿着宽大的黑袍围着头巾笑容灿烂的跟人说早安;对门的美国大叔夜晚工作,是旧金山著名的鬼怪导游,一到夜晚就长发披肩黑色皮衣皮裤皮斗篷的飒爽出门上班;楼下快七十岁的奶奶每天带着小马一样大的黑毛大狗出巡,偶尔也在后院裸体日光浴,并用相机来纪录时光怎么把青春夺走。我们两个外乡人诚惶诚恐的住进来,一切顾虑陌生没两天就溶解在邻居们热情的问候中。尽管仍然要为不知道是游客还是小区里什么人堵住我们的车库而烦恼,但当楼下的黑发拉丁帅哥插着腰站在院子里大声吆喝我们下去摘他种的西红柿时,似乎整个城市都已经开始接纳我们了。

          

我与大伟手牵手走在公寓附近上上下下的水泥路上,不一会就被淹没在旧金山形形色色的人群当中。关于中国,关于新奥尔良,这些让我们与众不同的过去都深深刻进心里,除此之外一切差异在这个城市都如尘土般微不足道。


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January 1st, 2008
Posted by aixiaoke | 短篇游记, 我的旧金山 | no comments

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