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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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三合粥粉面


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2007年5月13日

           

  旧金山的唐人街很有名,而唐人街上最有名的头一号就是这三合粥粉面店。

      

  餐馆本身门脸很小,破旧肮脏的牌子支在狭窄阴暗的入口上面,看起来实在没半点吸引力 。   站在门口向里面瞅一眼,嘈杂的厨房,一位头发蓬乱油腻的大叔在发黑的破木案板上切红得极鲜艳的叉烧,小隔断后面是简陋的灶台,两个围着已经变作灰色污渍斑斑的围裙的厨师跳出来,手指着旁边只容一人通过又陡又窄又暗的楼梯大声嚷嚷:“楼上楼上!走!走!”    

        

  我乖乖的走进这黑洞一样的地方,一级一级小心的上着楼梯。转了个弯,面前一个十平房左右的厅,从入口到窗口短短的几米,左边被用作放碗筷盘盏,橱柜前面四个大白塑料桶用来放垃圾,一叠叠的塑料大托盘就放在这些桶上面。右边是六、七个窄小的桌子,每桌都坐满了人。留齐耳短发穿蓝色T恤的服务生大姐正眼都不瞅我们,眼睛一瞟手一挥,“上楼上楼!”

        

  于是我继续转弯,上台阶。这个树洞一般的小楼究竟有几层?

          

  今天人不算太多,只到了三楼就有空桌子。我们随便拣了个靠窗户的位子坐下,透过窗户里面的弯曲铁栏杆向外看,暖暖的太阳照在克雷街上熙熙攘攘的人群身上,大大小小的店铺牌子都泛着金光。

             

         等了五分钟,服务生大姐还是没来。       

           

         我很有耐心。上来先怠慢一下,这正是三合的特色。要知道,这种怠慢可不是为了吸引游客故意而为的:这个树洞楼,一层一层又一层,就一个服务生,她忙不过来啊。

               

         这家三合粥粉面店在二十世纪初就开始营业了。五十年代越战后“垮掉的一代”文学运动中最著名的领导人,写出不朽《在路上》的杰克·克鲁亚克和《嚎叫》的作者艾伦·金斯堡据说就常在这里聚会宵夜。传说曾经在“六画室”朗诵诗歌《浆果盛宴》标志着旧金山文艺复兴运动兴起的盖瑞·施耐德就是在这里教会杰克使用筷子的。

         

         不过,垮掉一代的历史尽管为三合奠定了在旧金山唐人街无以伦比的历史地位,但却不是让它名扬世界的直接原因。三合最出名的,是现已过世的曾经世界第一牛的服务生——Edsel Ford Fong。这位无比粗鲁凶暴以侮辱客人破口大骂为快的侍者老头被作家阿米斯代德·莫平写进了他的小说《Tales of the City》,并被改成了同名电影。在莫平的笔下,这位神人服务生对客人采取了法西斯式的命令管理方法,大喊大叫,出言侮辱,盘子丢得硑硑响,说不定手一滑腕一抖哪位食客的脑袋就要遭殃! 

          

         我不知道如果这位Edsel Ford Fong仍然健在,自己能否鼓起勇气也来自虐一把。现在的三合,尽管这位神侍已然不在,可他的精神,却早留在了这些油渍斑斑污泥零星的砖墙里了,每年吸引无数游客从世界各地来“体验生活”。                        

  等了半天,服务生大姐终于跑了上来——这位年纪大概三十多的女人似乎一直都是用跑的。我们前面还有三个十七八的美国小孩,也乖乖的坐在一边等着,桌上连杯水也没有。

                                

  “你,你,还有你,现在,跟我下去。”大姐对着美国小孩们命令道。

         

  “我们呢?”我赶紧问。

          

  两个塑封了的菜单向我飞过来:“你先等着。”

          

  五分钟后,我也被带下去,安排在一个靠过道的小桌子旁。尽管落座了,点菜还要等——一屋子人都等着点菜呢,得按顺序来。

            

  我的位置正对着刀叉盘盏橱,旁边的墙上是个竖长方形的开口,里面一个不锈钢侧面开放的双层盒子,如同一个简陋的手动电梯,用作楼上楼下传递饭食碗碟。每次楼下把盘子放到盒子里就按铃,上面服务生要如同从深井打水似的拼命拽绳子,把“电梯”吊上来——这活看起来可着实不轻松呢。我正端详着,窗边五人一桌点完菜了,服务生大姐一边跑过来把单子拴在“电梯”黑漆漆的脏绳甩到一楼厨房去,一边拎起来两双筷子,啪一声丢到我们桌上来,一声都不吭就又跑回窗口另一桌点菜去了。

          

  又等了十分钟,总算轮到我们了。

          

  这位大姐好歹不是Edsel Ford Fong,尽管彪悍了些,但还是为这无穷无尽的等待道歉的,解释说太忙啦。我马上点头表示理解,正打算问她什么是“卷粉”,旁边手动“电梯”的电铃“嘟、嘟”响了两声——这是饭好了楼下厨房在催呢。大姐丢下我们,走到楼梯口用歌剧女高音振聋发聩的嗓音全力向楼下喊“来啦来啦!”本来嘈杂的小屋子霎时间就安静了,只听见她的声音嗡嗡回荡着。我们与邻桌的三个美国小孩面面相觑,大家一起吐舌头做鬼脸。

            

  服务生大姐回来先忙着给刚才要饮料的桌分东西喝,好一会儿才又想起来我们。我赶紧毕恭毕敬的迅速报上菜名,什么话都不敢多说——这未彪悍的大姐我可不敢惹呀,管他什么是“卷粉”,反正端上来就知道了。

             

  上菜的时候又是一场疯忙。

             

  “谁点的甜酸鸡米饭?番茄牛?谁的叉烧炒粉?” 举着盘子的大嗓门超级夸张的响着。那边马上有人举手,不敢怠慢。


  盘子敲击的声音砰砰响,手动“电梯”上上下下按铃“嘟嘟”叫,服务生大姐飞来飞去。钢叉子们放在一个脏纸盒里,费好大劲垫起脚尖才能够到,弄得盒子哗哗啦啦。在这样的环境里,我发现自己原来根本不是来吃饭的,我是这活生生小剧场的演员,正配合着女主角的服务生大姐,卖力的上演这这幕叫“三合粥粉面”的舞台剧那!

             

  从垮掉的一代到新时代移民,表演都很精彩。作为奖励的“卷粉”,味道竟真的不错。 


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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May 6th, 2008
Posted by aixiaoke | 旅途轶事, 我的旧金山 | no comments


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西湖速写


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我不是杭州人,只在旅游的时候小住过几天。

第一次去西湖,是个晴天的傍晚,慕名而去,人头汲汲,算命的打太极拳的闲逛的,水色一般,夕阳一般,旅途劳顿中我的心情也一般。名贯古今的西湖除了规模庞大之外,样貌与天津水上乐园看起来相差不了太多。

第二天,小雨。

我穿上前一站在苏州买的紫金旗袍,撑着伞,与大伟慢慢从湖边的旅馆走到“柳浪闻莺”。雨不大,水面升起一层薄薄的雾气,远山如黛,亭台楼阁都笼罩在雨雾轻烟下,空气温暖而潮湿,一切都是那么样的静谧与安详。

这个时候,什么都不做,两个人就静静的牵着手相依站在在西湖雨雾里,也觉得整个世界,包括自己,都是美的。

漫步回旅馆,雨已经停了。一小段石板路泛着雨后的青光,空气中弥漫着淡淡的青草与泥土混合的味道。街边的小生意人慢慢都出来了,有个戴大草帽的农民在地上铺了红白格子的防水塑料布,上面是一个个用别针串好的玉兰花。每个都如同两个白玉的小吊铃,戴着绿色的小草帽,远远的就闻到甜蜜而清新的香气。大伟花五毛钱买了一串,别在我的胸前。玉兰花的清香撒了一路,一直飘,一直飘,飘过千山万水,时不时出现在大洋彼岸的我的梦里,连同那一年的西湖烟雨,龙井龙道,还有雨后漫山遍野的低矮茶树。

很多时候,一个地方的美,固然在于景色本身,但更重要的,是它带给你的回忆,或者说,它是否成全了记忆中你对美好的最纯真的向往。


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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

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May 6th, 2008
Posted by aixiaoke | 短篇游记 | no comments


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死灵之城


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2007年2月28日

        

新奥尔良的墓葬与美国其它地方全然不同,个个都是地上“悬棺”。这倒不是因为新奥尔良的人多么念旧,无法忘怀死者所以给他们建筑了“死灵之城”,而是新奥尔良这片地方,地表下面就是大沼泽,多挖几尺坟墓就进水了,总不能把先人的躯体泡在水里吧。这点上,新奥尔良的传统又和加勒比众多岛国风俗类似了。

 

著名的圣路易斯第一号公墓距离二号公墓只有三个街区,生了锈的黑栏杆铁门把里面一排排静默的灵魂与外面熙攘的公路隔开。很多墓地都有相当的年头了,这些墓葬基本都是长方形结构,普通的大概两人高,顶上或平或成三角状,本来是白色的外墙皮早已变成斑驳的灰色。墓的正面多是一人半高的石板门,有的干脆用红砖砌住,外面再抹上白灰。不过年久失修的墓地们白灰都掉得差不多了,露出里面已经发黑了的老砖。有钱人家的墓地宏伟得多,长长的跟一个小“猎枪筒房”类似,边角方方正正,平顶上面矗立着巨大洁白的天使雕像,或者是圣母玛利亚,气派非凡。与新奥尔良贫富夹杂的城市景观一样,在灵魂的城市里,穷的富的也互为睦邻,各不相扰。

 

也有一些墓在修葺,所以能够看到墓室里面的结构。一般的墓室分上下二或三层,最上面的用来放置棺椁。新奥尔良建城两百年,可公共排水系统直到二十世纪初才建成,哪怕到今天,法国区的排水排污系统仍然是一百年前的老结构,一下雨,由于地下水会从密西西比河与北部的庞恰特雷恩湖(Lake Pontchartrain)会向盆地地势位于海平面下七到二十英尺不等的老城回灌,仅有的排水系统也开始“反刍”,污水在石板街面肆意横流,加上红灯区一年四季不断的醉汉们的慷慨奉献,波旁大街永远充满了腐败所特有的味道。这样的公共健康环境,怎么不是疾病与瘟疫的温床!新奥尔良历史上曾发生过数次大规模的瘟疫,大批生命死亡,普通墓葬的两个棺椁位置不够,还要暂借公墓一角特意修葺的“棺材公寓”。这些“公寓”比起独门独户的墓地就要简陋的多,四平八稳方方正正如同烤箱一样的结构,没有任何装饰、生铁栏杆或者雕像,只有墙面是一样的斑驳脱落。每个棺椁一个方方正正的小口,棺木从这里放进去,等到家族墓地有了空房,或者直到俭骨日再回归祖先的怀抱。

 

俭骨一般都发生在安葬一年之后,棺材打开,逝者的遗骸被从中请出,扫入到墓地的最下层,与家族先人们的骸骨合并一处,生生世世,永不分离。

 

圣路易斯第一与二号墓地中所葬名人无数,其中巫毒皇后玛利亚母女俩,是新奥尔良历史上最具有神秘色彩的人物。

 

这大玛利亚的身世一直是个谜。据说她是1794年出生在法国区的,具有白人、黑人和印第安三重血统,集各家巫术之长为一身,修炼成美国历史上最著名的巫毒皇后。这位皇后不仅巫术厉害,最厉害的是通晓当时各种前卫发型,常常给显赫贵妇们当形象指导;同时她还开有妓院,研制春药,组织淫荡的群交游戏,服务于上层社会的达官贵人。利用这许多明暗关系网,马利亚皇后掌握了政界商界要人的多方机密,并以此作为自己发达的政治资本,获得了无以伦比的财富声誉与名望。这位一代巫皇死亡之后,据无数传奇报道,人们仍然常常看见她的身姿出现在法国区街头。一种说法是玛利亚皇后的女儿之一继承了衣钵,干脆连名字都借了,继续母亲大人辉煌的巫毒事业;另一种说法那就跟灵异力量相关了,不过可以确信的一点是,二百年后的今天,玛利亚皇后创立的巫毒事业在新奥尔良是日益发展壮大,并成为城市象征之一。法国区随便哪个游人如织的街角,都能在纪念品店里找到代表各种象征的巫毒小人,至于这些小人是被买回去跟招财猫摇钱树一样摆在家里祈求多金多福呢,还是被用来插入万颗银针诅咒敌人我就不得而知了。

 

既然无毒皇后究竟是死亡了还是另有蹊跷,那么她究竟魂归何处也成了史学家的一个研究课题。大玛利亚好说,葬于圣路易斯第一号墓地,每年有无数游客慕名前来,或膜拜,或猎奇;可小玛利亚,也就是巫毒皇后灵魂最后附体的继承者究竟葬在哪里,是一场永远没有结论的争执。各个新教旧教都宣称拥有小玛利亚的遗骨,目前能确信的只是她葬在圣路易斯二号公墓,墓碑无字。许多慕名前来寻找小玛利亚芳魂的访客,如果认为自己猜中了,就在某个无名墓地的破落粉墙上用红笔画个叉,再围绕墓碑转三圈,跳三跳,祈求巫毒皇后灵魂附体,赐予无限力量。

 

新奥尔良老城,与这些死灵之城共同经历着那些火灾、战乱、瘟疫、飓风、洪水的洗礼,在时光的脚步中依然用古老的爵士乐浅吟低唱着,叹息着,谱写着新的传奇。


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February 23rd, 2008
Posted by aixiaoke | 永远的新奥尔良, 短篇游记 | no comments


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舞狮


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 2007年2月20日

             

中午去唐人街吃饭,回来的路上赶巧碰到了某个饭馆门口舞狮子的。

 

这个舞狮团大概是唐人街里某武馆的队伍,人人身上一件整齐划一的明黄背心,上面用中、英文写着武馆大名。一金一银两个狮子,四个年轻小伙子“领舞”,其余十来个人推着大鼓敲着铜锣,在指挥的统一指导下鼓乐齐鸣。两个狮子,毛茸茸的大脑袋,屁股撅老高,摇头摆尾兴高采烈。前面负责狮子头的那个人不时要跳起来,偶而还要一跃踩上后面负责狮子屁股那个人的肩头。别看这狮子头花花绿绿假得很,可镶着一圈粉白毛毛的狮子耳朵会随着鼓点一上一下的呼扇,狮子铜铃铛般的大眼睛也一开一合的眨着眼,又可爱又神气!

 

这舞狮团可不是白舞的。狮子走到了店家门口,是要先进去索要红包的,不给,两个大狮子就一扭一扭的不走,门外的鼓点也一阵急似一阵:哪个抠门的老板拉得下脸来不在大过年的时候讨个吉利啊!这舞狮团刚才弄没弄到红包我没看见,不过倒是眼见着店里人给拎出来一大木盆瓜果蔬菜摆到场地中央。金银二狮卖力开舞,银狮子还蹲下去,用“嘴”把木盆“衔”到自己眼前,从中“叼”出一颗翠绿滚圆的大白菜,一甩头含进嘴里,左摇右摆了一会,再一甩头一松嘴,这圆咕隆冬的大白菜就如同绣球一样从银狮嘴里被抛到金狮嘴里了。金狮抢到白菜后毫不客气的“大嚼大咽”,“嚼”了两口还兴高采烈的一仰头一张嘴,“哗”吐出一大口白菜叶,跟天女散花使的撒得满地都是。估计这就表示狮子吃高兴啦!

 

狮子高兴了,我们观众看得也高兴。只见这四个小伙子步伐稳健,前面两个负责狮子头的更是上下翻飞,花花绿绿的刹是喜庆。舞到最后,金狮银狮每个嘴里叼上一个大红金边的卷轴,狮子头抬起来,前面的小伙子站到后面那个的肩旁上,然后“哗啦”一下,两个卷轴齐齐放下来,上面写着“生意兴隆,财源滚滚”八个金漆大字,然后鞭炮噼啪啪响起来。这个新春头彩讨得,真是又吉祥又喜气!

 

三藩城里的唐人街啊,仿佛把中国的传统热闹项目都用冰箱冻起来保存在了这遥远的一方土地之上了似的。赛龙舟、舞金狮、放鞭炮、闹花灯,一项一项该热闹该庆祝的时候都不输于国内。这样纯朴又热闹的过新年,我在中国的时候也不曾体会过呢!


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February 21st, 2008
Posted by aixiaoke | 短篇游记, 我的旧金山 | no comments


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三藩寻鬼记


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2006年10月31日

 

刚搬进三藩海边的小公寓时,邻居们神神秘秘的说:“你知道么,你家对门可是个名人啊!”像我这么八卦的人,听完立刻就激动起来了,“什么,名人,哪个名人?”

  

当然,电视电影上总出现的名人都住豪宅,自然不会蜗居在小小的公寓里。不过我家对门在三藩市还真是位本地名人呢,他出门总被认出来,合影打招呼那更是家常便饭。当然他的穿着打扮也十分与众不同:长长的皮风衣,红马甲,黑灰的卷曲长发乱乱的披在肩膀,小圆眼镜,黑色长皮靴,手提一盏气死风灯。这样古典的打扮,不引人注目还真有些困难。说了半天,这位名人邻居究竟是做什么的?

       

原来,他就是三藩寻鬼游的导游——吉穆。鬼节的前一天晚上,我与大伟终于去参加了这个著名的寻鬼之旅。听鬼故事我一向是感兴趣的,不过吉穆的导游与其他的鬼怪之旅有个明显的区别:吉穆的故事都是有明确文献记载的,很多故事,还有吉穆本人,都上过发现电视台的特别节目。除此之外,吉穆在导游过程中会带领游客亲自感受灵异力量,当然他的幽默小笑话们也极有特色。

        

因为靠近鬼节,来参加寻鬼有的“鬼友”们还真不少。晚上7点在距今一百多年历史的Queen Anne旅馆聚集了五十多号人马,第一个钟头先听吉穆狂砍自己从小与鬼们打交道的经历,还有就是这百年老楼的鬼怪历史。这个Queen Anne旅馆一百年前是个女子寄宿学校,校长玛丽小姐把全身心都投入了对年轻女孩的教育当中。可惜九年后学校莫名其妙关了门,变成了“绅士俱乐部”,玛丽小姐也失踪了。百年后 这栋老房子多次转手,直到现在金碧辉煌的Queen Anne旅馆。不过玛丽小姐的鬼魂似乎从未接受这样的转变,仍然固执的守候着她付出全部心血的学校。来旅馆住宿的客人曾经多次报告说见过身穿白色古式长裙的女子在四楼与二楼的走廊逡巡,更有无数位住进410房间的客人说半夜有人给整理被子,最常见的情况是睡醒后发现身上盖着一条小毯子,而且毯子边儿被密密实实的塞进身子下面,把整个人都包裹起来。

       

Queen Anne Hotel大厅

       

 

401房间

       

 

Hotel里极具三藩特色的金红装饰座钟

     

与玛丽相遇过的客人全都说玛丽给人带来一种极为平缓舒适的感觉,是最为友好的鬼魂。玛丽不仅关心客人睡眠,还喜欢跟人坐在一起,甚至有时轻抚人胳膊。如果你在旅馆里四处乱逛或者坐在人家上百年历史的古董家具上,突然发现身边出现一个温度极低的空间,这就是“冷点”,也就是鬼魂实体了。冷点与屋里其他地方的温度差别能超过华氏20度,能明显感受到冷点的边界。一次吉穆导游时来了一群八到十一岁的小女孩,玛丽的鬼魂立刻就出现了。小女孩们纷纷伸手感受冷点的边界,然后大家一起比出冷点的形状——人形圆柱体。

         

当然不是所有的鬼魂都像玛丽这样温柔可爱。离开Queen Anne旅馆,一群人在吹着冷风的夜幕中就着气死风灯的一点点微光前行,下一个停留处是位于LagunaCalifornia(加州大道)交接处的白色豪宅。这里的鬼魂叫弗萝拉,是三藩市最常被报道现形的鬼魂。出生于十九世纪末弗萝拉本是富家小姐,被家族安排要嫁给一个有钱有势的老头。弗萝拉考虑再三决定逃婚,她家人在当时悬赏五十万美金也没有她的任何消息。弗萝拉一个弱女子,在那个时代选择逃离富足的家庭是极其需要勇气的“壮举”,而她本人也一生孤苦无依,五十年后客死费城。弗萝拉的尸体被运回旧金山后草草安葬,从此她的鬼魂就开始频繁出现在加州大道上。一次一整街车的游客看到了半透明的弗萝拉在街上面无表情的走过;吉穆在导游过程中游客也数次看到弗萝拉穿着白色带硬领子的拽地长裙在街头飘移。

       

除了弗萝拉,吉穆在接下来的两个小时中还介绍了其他著名鬼魂与他们的“现住宅”,比如Octavia街上每住进新房客必有鬼魂现身欢迎的公寓大楼,比如旧金山最著名的,得到新奥尔良巫毒皇后亲传,丑闻缠身一辈子的马利埃伦等等。不过最最不可思议的是位于Sacramento街上的采银大亨陈博斯家族豪宅。

       

陈博斯家族里两个早就相互嫉妒诋毁的姐妹继承了相距不过几十尺的两幢豪宅。十九世纪末时三藩还没有现在的规模,大部分豪宅拥有自己的小农场,用来养殖自家食用的肉禽等。其中一位叫克洛缔娅的某日被发现惨死在自己豪宅靠近右门的小室中,陈博斯家族对外宣布是“农场事故”;不过据吉穆的调查结果,陈博斯家族蓄意销毁了很多相关文献记载,而克洛缔娅死时是几乎被砍为两半的,当时一般家庭的小型农场根本没有如此巨大可以劈人为两半的农器。陈博斯家族的豪宅在事件发生后辗转经手,前几年本是一超级豪华旅馆,后来不知什么原因酒店被改造,成为两个独立的豪华公寓出售。右边那半,五个卧室,六个半盥洗室,居住面积在五千尺以上的超级公寓几年前竟然只卖出了三百七十五万的超低价格——要知道同一地段两千尺左右的住房就能达到一百至两百万的售价啊!

       

酒店还没被改造前,吉穆的会带领游人在里面详细讲解,无数灵媒、灵异现象研究中心的人员也都来这里调查过。根据不同灵媒的通灵记载,以及吉穆在导游过程中,一位来自洛杉矶的谋杀重案组警察被附体的经历,克洛缔娅“本人”描述自己是被一位表亲用刀砍,一路从豪宅中被追杀至右门小室而最终死亡的,整个过程极为痛苦血腥。这与吉穆导游过程中,无数游客在进入右门小室的时候有“如入泥塘”般难以挪步是相吻合的。

 

豪宅现在的主人们极其不喜欢吉穆,曾数次以各种理由叫警察来驱逐吉穆与游人:也难怪,谁愿意把房子闹鬼的事情宣布的全世界皆知呢。但不管如何,现在豪宅里的花草种植都是依循章法的,据说是加勒比海某国防厉鬼的秘方——不管是不是真有鬼,豪宅里的人小心谨慎是一定的。

       

其实我对鬼魂也是将信将疑,但这世界上有太多科学原理所无法解释的奇异现象,所以保留一个开阔的,接受不同解释的心态还算健康。但吉穆下面做的事情,却大大出乎我的意料。

       

吉穆把几十号人聚集在一起,借着街灯从红色马甲侧面的小兜里掏出一把生了绣的老钥匙,让大家仔细观瞧。据吉穆说,这把钥匙是他从一个古董商处获得,传说此钥匙来自于陈博斯家族,而克洛缔娅的鬼魂只要见了这把钥匙,就要把它向某个方向转动,似乎要打开什么被尘封的密室,让某些失传的秘密重见天日。这个传说是否属实我不得而知,不过这钥匙的神奇却在昨晚亲眼得见。

     

吉穆伸出右手把钥匙放于掌心,手掌摊平,让一个游客握住他的手腕,另一个握住他的手指们,证明他的手是没有任何移动的;我们所站的位置是个小小下坡,钥匙比较沉的部分面对的是下坡方向,风也是从上坡向下坡方向吹动的——钥匙的移动至少不是重力或风力因素。吉穆的手掌是东西方向,这样钥匙基本是南北方向,磁场应该也不会影响钥匙。一切准备就绪,吉穆伸平手掌,几十对眼睛睁得一个比一个大,直勾勾的盯着小小的钥匙。奇迹发生了,那钥匙真就在众人眼皮底下慢慢翻动了,开始十分缓慢,动到一半的时候,速度突然加快,一下子翻了过来。大家都不知该说什么好,这时吉穆让游客中一个漂亮的金发美女出来亲自试验,钥匙也如上次一样,在毫无人力帮助的情况下慢慢翻了个身。

       

要是一般人,故事讲到这也就完了,无非感叹一下这把钥匙的神奇,或者克洛缔娅鬼魂的执著等等。不过谁让我是吉穆的邻居呢,总要有些特殊待遇才对。于是在游览结束后,吉穆开车带我与大伟共同回公寓大楼,我就借着邻居之便,特意把这钥匙借来仔细观祥。其实就是一把锈迹斑斑的大铁钥匙,带齿的一头最沉,圈的那头相对较轻。小柯把钥匙放在手上,等了半天钥匙也没动,真是令人泄气。问吉穆,果然这实验不是每次都成功的,最好在陈博斯家族豪宅前,而且要选择特定气场之人。有的人对灵异现象看得比较开明,或者说具有容易吸引灵异物质的体质;而有的人用中国风水说法就是“阳气太重”,这些召唤鬼魂的把戏就不灵啦。

     

尽管如此,我把钥匙放在手里的时候,大伟竟然也拍出来一张“灵异”照片。当然事后分析,一定是相机抖或者我的手动了,以至于快门按下的时候我的手与钥匙产生了部分重叠,但那钥匙似乎变成半透明的效果还是把我们吓了一跳——克洛缔娅的鬼魂还是在自家门前显灵就好啦!

    

     

三藩寻鬼,足足三个小时,听了不少好故事,穿插着关于旧金山的建筑特色与历史事件,还有吉穆的特色笑话们。虽然整晚上看到唯一的鬼是鬼节里人家装饰在阳台上的“熊猫棉花鬼”,可不知不觉的,我们离这个城市又近了一步。


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February 21st, 2008
Posted by aixiaoke | 短篇游记, 我的旧金山 | no comments


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爱恨交织唐人街


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2006年9月19日

           

我快要搬家到旧金山来的时候,所有的人都说:“多幸福啊,到了旧金山,有那么大的唐人街,想吃什么就吃什么,想买什么就买什么,简直如同回国一样嘛!”

 

来到三藩三个礼拜,仔细想想这话真是不假。住在唐人街附近真是无比幸福的一件事啊。比方说,下班开车回家的时候可以顺路停在唐人街附近去买广式烧腊还有雪白的馒头与包子;想想家里菜不多了,随便哪个小超市外面都是摆得整整齐齐碧绿的青菜或者鲜艳的水果,几毛钱一磅比美国超市里不知道要便宜多少,买一大袋回去也不过几块钱而已;周末嘴馋了就有无数的川菜湖南馆还有广东早茶小店可以去打牙祭,点一大桌子花费却只有去美国餐馆的一半;想念中国的物件了,不管是武侠言情小说还是流行音乐碟片或者台湾香港杂志,说广东话买书报杂志的老大爷大妈们永远随处可见,更不必说Grant街上一家挨一家卖南北奇珍东西百货海鲜药材的百货商城……

 

与大部分90年代以后来到美国定居的新移民相比,这些生活在旧金山老唐人街范围内的老移民们更保留了无数传统的中国生活方式,有些方面甚至称得上复古,那架势只怕在大陆也仅能从影视剧里看到了。

 

我刚来美国那年在旧金山入关,第一次领略这全世界闻名的旧金山唐人街,不知道在哪条街上看到一个陈旧古朴的中草药店。开店的老爷子留着雪白的齐胸长髯,穿件暗银灰两面开襟领口盘扣的土布长袍,手里拎着个竹木红漆鸟笼子,笼里一只嫩黄红嘴小鸟嘤嘤而歌。这老爷子靠着门框站得气宇轩昂,身后一排黑漆草药抽屉大柜,每个方形小格上都贴着标签,用繁体的中文规规矩矩写下各种草药的名头。柜子侧面还挂着一杆吊银色秤砣的小秤,从门口经过,各种草药混合在一起又苦又香的味道扑鼻而来,我整个人惊愕得几乎要晕掉。

 

一个礼拜前再游老唐人街,七拐八拐绕进不知道什么名字的小巷,远远听见咚咚敲鼓的声响。沿着声音追寻过去,眼前竟然是一排整整齐齐花里胡哨的各色会馆。每个牌匾上的繁体大字都是从右至左方向,两边如同对联的文字中充满了“至尊”、“为公”这样的惊人字眼。二楼雕花栏杆后面虚掩的大门里隐隐约约一群人的身影,飞舞的鼓槌送出韵律强劲的鼓点,欢快喜悦的节奏伴着整齐的“嘿、嗨”盘旋在红墙碧瓦的飞檐翘角之上。一时间我的世界时空错乱,神魂颠倒。我还以为自己突然回到清朝末年或者民国初岁,如果此时耳旁再响彻歌手后弦那首《踢馆》,我一定以为自己不小心进入了什么影视城那!

 

其实这些“会馆”,并不是电视里那些弄拳踢腿的武术会馆,更不会有“踢馆”这样浪漫武侠的事件发生。这些“会馆”用现代中文来表述就相当于今天的“联合会”,“社区中心”等,有些是个人开办的协会组织,有些是社区联合的活动中心。不同的会馆有不同的政治倾向,常常看到两个邻近的会馆青天白日旗与五星红旗迎风招展同台竞艳的状况。考虑到旧金山这个民族文化种族政见宗教信仰的大熔炉,考虑到整个唐人街上英文国语广东话闽南话上海话共同繁荣的状况,这些个五花八门的会馆们和平共处就一点都不奇怪了。

 

逛唐人街,不仅有各种各样好吃的、好玩的,还有这么多好看的、好听的,比如说Grant街上无数拉二胡的大叔大爷,不管技艺如何,听到这些熟悉的乡音总让人觉得离家近了一步,总让人在异国他乡由衷品味浓浓的故情旧念。有这等许多好处的唐人街,怎能不叫人真心向往,不胸怀爱恋?

 

不过话又说回来,向往过了,爱恋完了,每当看到唐人街上这样或那样令人不舒服的状况,仍然要忍不住骂一骂种种令人气难舒意难平的地方,正所谓爱之深责之切也。

 

唐人街上令人第一不能忍受的是国人对国人的歧视。餐馆里的服务生金发碧眼的去了就笑脸相迎,一遇到黄皮肤黑头发讲中文的客人那脸色便如同夏天午后的对流雨,说变就变,完全没有商量的余地。如果说的是粤语还好些,旧金山的老唐人街上普通话是最不被欢迎的。这个时候哪怕店里再卖的是山珍海味,吃起来也变成如鲠在喉。冷冰冰的脸孔是中国餐馆的流行病,尤其小店,每位侍者似乎都有一段苦大仇深的历史,要么就是确信每位客人都欠款若干银两。在这种环境下吃饭,只求速战速决,那敢斗胆央求侍者屡次服务?如此用餐,小费自然给得心不甘情不愿,反正以后永远不来了;侍者接得怨声载道,心里暗骂“这几个小气鬼,****!”如此怨怨相报,无穷无尽。

 

除了直接与间接的歧视,唐人街的另一大特色是“脏”。Stockton街边海鲜市场里穿着塑胶雨鞋的大叔们不停把店里的脏水扫到外面,街上喜气洋洋卖蔬菜的大妈们在布满脏水与尘土的街道上铺下块塑料布就开始兜售良莠不齐的手工艺品和袋装蔬菜。大大小小的烧腊店挂满彤红金黄的各色漂亮肉食,不过外面肮脏的玻璃窗上的电光纸红字们上下都是厚厚的尘土。广东早茶店里无论桌椅还是油酱瓶上都蒙着肥腻的一层油渍,用来剪开美味马拉糕的大剪子不知道还剪过什么食物以至于边缘油亮乌黑。在唐人街吃饭这些关于清洁的问题是不能深究的,要么就干脆别去,省钱省事又省心。

 

到唐人街买菜虽然便宜得让人大跌眼镜,不过有时这过程也并不似想象那么令人愉快。放在店外的水果远看新鲜可人,走近了却发现上面尽是一个个的指甲印,留下来的这些可怜家伙们身负重伤,一道道瘀痕藏也没地方藏。其实掰叶撕皮也就算了,最不可思议的一次是某大妈为了查看柜台上罗列得整整齐齐自己却够不到的桃子,毫不犹豫的抓起来下面的一个个倒霉蛋,一个一个向上丢过去好把高处的桃子砸下来。可惜大妈抛物技巧不佳,可怜的桃子们乒乒乓乓的砸向橱窗后稀里哗啦滚落一地,不知道这样的命运一天要重复几次。

 

就是这样的唐人街,让人爱恨交织情感复杂。受了委屈想狠心再也不踏上那一亩三分地,可总有这样那样千丝万缕的关系吸引着人回去,去听去看去尝去想去感受。爱也好,恨也罢,不亲近是不行的。因为走得再远,心底也总有一个声音暗暗呢喃着,诉说着,诉说着什么叫做——血脉相连。


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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
February 21st, 2008
Posted by aixiaoke | 短篇游记, 我的旧金山 | no comments


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

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Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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爱在印第安之夏


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2006年9月29日 

        

         

旧金山的天气说来真是奇怪,人家夏天的时候它偏偏冷得要死,漫天湿雾,阳光难得一见。就算见得了阳光,那也大多是靠近海岸的所在,海风越吹越凉。所以旧金山人用来区分游客和本地人的方法很简单:看看街上哪位在夏天时节穿得短衣襟小打扮两胳膊抱在胸前瑟瑟发抖就基本错不了啦。当然,游客们大多同时第一次体会旧金山超过30度的大斜坡们,一个个俯首弯腰,嘿呦哼哧的费力爬山。所以这种“大猩猩姿态”就成了旧金山本地人嘻笑游客们的第二个话题。

     

笑归笑,旧金山市的旅游氛围是相当友善的。尤其是进入九月,从月中到十月初这三、四个礼拜是一年里来旧金山旅游的最佳时节。这段时间被称作“印第安之夏”,据说是因为当初北美的印第安人在这一时节开始秋收享受一年劳动成果。后来“印第安之夏”被引申用作形容秋天里的夏天,在旧金山,这段时间是全年里最温暖最阳光灿烂的黄金旅游季节,每个礼拜都活动不断,大大小小的露天电影节、音乐节、艺术节、唐人街的中秋街会,龙舟大赛等等都赶到这个时候进行。当然,还有最最著名的——旧金山同性恋大游行。

         

三藩这个城市的兼容并包真不是空有其名。不仅种族文化大杂烩大融合,在性取向问题上更是开放自由。著名的同性恋区Castro位于旧金山市中南部,Castro整条街彩虹旗(同性恋的标志)飘扬,与众不同的性取向在这里是值得骄傲需要宣扬的理念。街角的酒吧们大多前卫而华贵,透过干净的大玻璃窗能看到里面笑语喧哗的精致男人们,鲜绿小花格的裤子,粉红竖条微微泛光的衬衣,绣花的腰带,一丝不苟光可鉴人的意大利皮鞋…… 当然,还有赤裸上身手挽着手共同过街的标准健壮肌肉男们。“同性恋”这个词不仅绝无贬义,甚至有赞扬的意味,表示一个男人有身材有品位有时尚感。其实,同性恋的骄傲在三藩城里绝不仅限于同性恋区。某天晚饭后我与大伟趁着夕阳还没落去的时光去离家两条街的海岸公园散步,被阳光度成金黄色的绿草坪上布满了星星点点的彩色小毯子,一对对情侣或坐或卧,呢喃低语。其中一对格外甜蜜,两人紧紧依偎着,身边还躺着一条温顺的大狗。我一边啧啧感叹着,一边慢慢向他们的方向走去,偷偷用眼瞄人家,看是什么样的帅哥美女组合。近视眼的我走近了才发现事实大大出乎我预料,原来这对超级甜蜜的情侣竟然是两位鹤发白须的老爷爷,两个人又慈祥又恩爱。我一边暗笑,又一边偷偷羡慕他们:能够在花甲的年纪依旧保持热恋的温度,这样的爱情,也算是惊天地泣鬼神了吧。

       

所以在旧金山,爱情就是爱情,跟性别种族年龄都没有关系。越是不被传统接受不被世人承认的情感越需要相关群体的支持,需要展示需要庆祝。这就是旧金山九月爱节大游行的宗旨,它宣扬的是个人选择的自由,平等与人权。游行前好几个星期Castro区就人声鼎沸了,来自全国各地的同性恋、双向恋、变性人与特殊性取向者们兴高采烈的制作、购买华丽暴露的服饰,不同的社区组织相互介绍支持为游行作准备;而游行这一天,就连市政府也挂上一面巨大的彩虹旗来庆祝这一年一度的特殊节日。

         

当然,如果仅仅是普通的游行,就算游行着都有与众不同的性取向,恐怕也不足以吸引全世界那么多人来猎奇。三藩爱节大游行的最大特点在于它包括两个特殊群体:全裸游行者们与性虐嗜好(S&M)群体。

           

全裸可不是象征性的全裸,那绝对是真刀真枪大大方方的全裸。与欧洲足球比赛上的裸奔者不同,全裸的游行者们不用担心“有伤风化”的指控,完全充满自信的展示躯体享受人与自然的合二为一。不管年轻的年老的身材好的身材差的,只要有胆子不在乎路人的目光那就裸吧。我想这些天体论实践者们一方面是享受裸露所带来的激动感与新鲜感,更重要的是传达一种无畏的信息:真正的自由不惧怕任何不同的声音与目光,要的就是这份坦荡,这份洒脱。

           

其实我很欣赏这些无畏的天体实践者。他们裸露的大方自然,他们有勇气、有行动,不说空话。和裸露者比起来,性虐嗜好群体是更为复杂的一群。男男女女穿上黑的红的裸露皮衣皮裤,脸上化着五颜六色的浓妆,手里拿着千奇百怪的道具,什么手铐皮鞭皮棒皮绳,色彩鲜艳种类繁多。这群兴高采烈的男女们边走边表演,尤其有游客围观照相的时候,更是卖力摆出姿态,其疯狂程度不亚于新奥尔良狂欢节游行结束后波旁街上的露天性爱大放送。

           

因为去看珍宝岛上的龙舟大赛,今年的同性恋大游行我们只赶上一个尾巴。不过意外的发现原来游行结束后在市政厅前的广场上竟然是规模浩大的电子音乐狂欢派对。全场密密麻麻的年轻人,大部分都穿了一般鬼节才看到的各式服装,聚集在一个个由巨大音箱装饰的临时舞台或者卡车前随着强劲的电子音乐节拍扭着舞着。三藩的街舞高手这时也都欢聚一堂了,大家围成圈子排开场地,年轻的男孩们争相恐后的做出各种超高难度的舞蹈动作。市政广场中心是一排排卖零食饮料的帐篷,好大一片都由啤酒公司占据着。游行完了的走到这个终点站,买杯酒,也别管是裸着还是光着,反正整场也没几个清醒的,大家就都不分你我一起跳舞。放眼望去,满眼肉色无边,这情形真瑰异极了。

        

            

这样光怪陆离千奇百怪的旧金山真真合了小柯的胃口,强烈满足了我“生命不息,猎奇不止”的好奇心。不知道我对这个城市的感情,会不会从这个印第安之夏开始慢慢生长起来,那,又是一番新天地了。


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

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January 1st, 2008
Posted by aixiaoke | 短篇游记, 我的旧金山 | no comments


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25


Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 776

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 320
三藩初体验


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2006年8月25日 

  

一路奔波,终于来到了此行的目的地旧金山市。

    

我们小小的公寓在北部意大利区靠近海岸线的地方,目光越过窗外火柴盒一样方方正正漆成深红的小楼就是深蓝色的海水和上面星星点点的白帆。海的中心是当年据说无人能逃无人敢逃囚禁重刑犯人的恶魔岛(Alcatraz),现在岛上监狱早已废弃,小岛也被开发成三藩市的著名旅游景点。夜晚的时候岛上灯塔的光柱特别明显,一明一灭的正扫射到我们的卧室。如果仔细听,黑暗中的海鸥与不远处渔人码头上海狮们的叫声此起彼伏,仿佛夜曲般缠绵。

         

在新奥尔良住了六年,早已习惯了没有坡度完全水平的地面,三藩上上下下的大坡小丘真苦了大伟。一路上本来自动挡的汽车要按照手动档一样双脚并用来起、停,大伟一手握方向盘另一手还不忘攥紧手动刹车随时待命。一个坡一个街区的过去,我们如同坐在云霄飞车上面陡降陡升。碰到太陡的大坡,耳朵甚至会如同飞机起降时一般鸣叫起来。

        

住下四五天,从四壁空空开始一点一点用乱七八糟的东西填满这方小小空间。不停外出采买的同时也连带开始熟悉起这片街区起来。公寓附近就是直通中国城的哥伦布街,这条吊角斜 插过方方正正街区们的大路从早到晚都是歌舞升平,华灯璀璨。等红灯的时候总能看见兴高采烈的游客从面前经过,或者喝醉了的年轻人大声喧哗着踩着舞步跃过斑马线,还有迷你超短裙的浓妆金发吧女举着大盘五颜六色的鸡尾酒不知道要进去哪家霓虹世界。哥伦布街与华盛顿街斜斜交口的地方更是有幢绿色老楼霸气十足的矗立着,不知道多少年的历史孕育出墨绿外表上黑色年代纹络的华贵。每次看到这幢大楼,我总要莫名其妙的想起《倩女幽魂》里吸足了人间精气的黑山老妖,因为那景象实在奇特的完全不真实,只有电影中才该现身。而这样的城市景观也让我强烈的怀念起新奥尔良的法国区来:同样的张狂与迷幻,似乎每个窗角每个台阶都有什么精彩故事正在上映。不过这里更加国际化,五颜六色的服饰与五颜六色的脸孔,透出只有大都市才有的无畏气概。

          

不仅城市里各色种族各国语言交汇融通,就连我们小小的公寓楼也算个小联合国了。二楼的阿拉伯大爷已经在楼里住了快四十年,他儿子穿着宽大的黑袍围着头巾笑容灿烂的跟人说早安;对门的美国大叔夜晚工作,是旧金山著名的鬼怪导游,一到夜晚就长发披肩黑色皮衣皮裤皮斗篷的飒爽出门上班;楼下快七十岁的奶奶每天带着小马一样大的黑毛大狗出巡,偶尔也在后院裸体日光浴,并用相机来纪录时光怎么把青春夺走。我们两个外乡人诚惶诚恐的住进来,一切顾虑陌生没两天就溶解在邻居们热情的问候中。尽管仍然要为不知道是游客还是小区里什么人堵住我们的车库而烦恼,但当楼下的黑发拉丁帅哥插着腰站在院子里大声吆喝我们下去摘他种的西红柿时,似乎整个城市都已经开始接纳我们了。

          

我与大伟手牵手走在公寓附近上上下下的水泥路上,不一会就被淹没在旧金山形形色色的人群当中。关于中国,关于新奥尔良,这些让我们与众不同的过去都深深刻进心里,除此之外一切差异在这个城市都如尘土般微不足道。


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
January 1st, 2008
Posted by aixiaoke | 短篇游记, 我的旧金山 | no comments


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25


Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 776

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 320
西行雨原


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2006年8月15日

         

从得克萨斯州的Fort Stockton小镇一路向西,广袤平原的上空布满了低矮浓密的青色云层。有些地方这些雨云竟然一块快零散分布,云层发黑的地方雨水直上直下,形成一片青紫色的帷幕,将云朵下的山峦与城市尽数包围进去。远远忘去,云层与地面之间就是一个个青蓝色的水柱,雾气蒸腾,很是奇异。雨雾薄的地方,云朵下的厚幕便化作青纱,半透明若有还无的飘荡着,露出后面的远山与绿色平原。可要是换个方向望去,青色雨云的旁边就是朵朵棉花糖一样的白云与湛蓝的天空,界限分隔得明朗而清晰。

                    

车向西行,偶尔有点点细雨轻轻滴落在车窗上,黄绿相间的辽阔平原立刻变得迷蒙。远山如黛,在天际与云层连作一片,笔直的公路一眼忘不到尽头。车窗外一头黑色的慢牛在黄土小径上孤独的走着,远处星星点点是无数的牛群与羊群。音响中此刻正响着法国风格的低沉大提琴,伴着阴天,一切近乎完美。          

           

再向西进,提琴变作交响乐,音乐与雨后的平原一样壮阔而悠远。这个时候我突然觉得我们并不是开向加州,而是开入一幅边缘模糊色彩氤氲的印象派油画,开入隐约可见的彩虹的尽头。在那里,有青鸟飞翔,有夜莺歌唱;那里,宇宙的一切迷题都将被解开,人类将拥有无法想像的智慧与希望。

          

我是不相信共产主义的。可西行雨原,竟让我觉得乌托邦并非虚幻,美好一切终有实现的一天。

            


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 短篇游记 | no comments


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25


Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 776

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 320
姚餐厅


Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 81

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 87

2006年8月13日

              

陆续收拾了很多天,还是没能按计划于周五启程。一方面零散的小东西太多,另一方面,心中对新奥尔良有太多不舍与留恋,似乎哪怕多留一分钟,多呼吸一秒种这个城市的空气,这份眷恋就会更长久的留驻在这里,成为她灵魂的一部分。

          

 

房子慢慢被清空,每面墙又恢复它原来的色彩。临走前尽力清洁,希望这里也为将来的人们留下许多美好的回忆,就犹如它所带给我们的平安与满足。

          

一下午无话。傍晚十分,终于到达这一天的目的地,四顾休斯顿。

           

想想命运也真神奇,去年的飓风让我们一路颠簸逃难去了加州,新年过后峰回路转又开出三千英里成功返家。可没想到我毕业后的工作城市竟然是在旧金山,于是一家人,包括Kiwi乖乖,又要原路返回。

            

休斯顿是从新奥尔良开车去加州的必经之路,第四次来到这个城市,本来是没打算游览任何项目的,早睡早起提早上路才最重要。可没想到我们在网上随便定的旅馆就在大名鼎鼎的姚餐厅附近,暗夜里红色的“YAO”招牌格外醒目。这样全不费功夫的巧遇小柯自然不能错过,于是终于了却了在休斯顿的最后一个心愿,去姚餐厅大吃了一顿。

          

餐厅给人的第一印象十分气派,进门处是古香古色的暗木家具,左手边大堂,正红色墙面配黑色木窗格子的装饰,小包厢之间是淬火透明玻璃间隔,风格象极了大上海古雅繁华与现代简洁的融合;右手边是大间酒吧,玻璃窗外四幅姚明的巨型照片,一时间星光闪闪熠熠生辉。玻璃橱窗里是球星们签名的篮球,还有姚明巨大的球鞋。

       

 

 

如此的装潢与环境,价格却比想像之中要便宜许多,让小柯吃惊不少。对比一下新奥尔良城里大厨Philip ChanAsian Cajun Bistro,这里的性价比真是奇高。我特意点了大名鼎鼎的姚妈妈秘方上海馄饨汤,尽管汤不算特别美味,但小馄饨还真不错。大伟点了下饭的鱼香茄子鸡,量很大,鱼香味也很地道。

           

特别值得一提的是餐厅的服务,真是宾至如归。侍者彬彬有礼和蔼可亲,不停得来加水察看。我们旁边刚巧是一家生日聚会,一群美国侍者拎着面中国的黄铜小锣出来,先敲一声开场,之后将桌子团团围住,用半生不熟带着口音的中文大唱《生日快乐》歌,每唱一句就敲一下锣。我们在旁边看得要闷笑死掉,可也被这中美结合的“姚式”快乐气氛感染,不由得为他们喝起彩来。

           

没想到上路第一天,乡愁都溶进姚餐厅的馄饨汤里,再也不知悲伤的滋味。


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 短篇游记 | no comments