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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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西行雨原


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2006年8月15日

         

从得克萨斯州的Fort Stockton小镇一路向西,广袤平原的上空布满了低矮浓密的青色云层。有些地方这些雨云竟然一块快零散分布,云层发黑的地方雨水直上直下,形成一片青紫色的帷幕,将云朵下的山峦与城市尽数包围进去。远远忘去,云层与地面之间就是一个个青蓝色的水柱,雾气蒸腾,很是奇异。雨雾薄的地方,云朵下的厚幕便化作青纱,半透明若有还无的飘荡着,露出后面的远山与绿色平原。可要是换个方向望去,青色雨云的旁边就是朵朵棉花糖一样的白云与湛蓝的天空,界限分隔得明朗而清晰。

                    

车向西行,偶尔有点点细雨轻轻滴落在车窗上,黄绿相间的辽阔平原立刻变得迷蒙。远山如黛,在天际与云层连作一片,笔直的公路一眼忘不到尽头。车窗外一头黑色的慢牛在黄土小径上孤独的走着,远处星星点点是无数的牛群与羊群。音响中此刻正响着法国风格的低沉大提琴,伴着阴天,一切近乎完美。          

           

再向西进,提琴变作交响乐,音乐与雨后的平原一样壮阔而悠远。这个时候我突然觉得我们并不是开向加州,而是开入一幅边缘模糊色彩氤氲的印象派油画,开入隐约可见的彩虹的尽头。在那里,有青鸟飞翔,有夜莺歌唱;那里,宇宙的一切迷题都将被解开,人类将拥有无法想像的智慧与希望。

          

我是不相信共产主义的。可西行雨原,竟让我觉得乌托邦并非虚幻,美好一切终有实现的一天。

            


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 短篇游记 | no comments


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姚餐厅


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2006年8月13日

              

陆续收拾了很多天,还是没能按计划于周五启程。一方面零散的小东西太多,另一方面,心中对新奥尔良有太多不舍与留恋,似乎哪怕多留一分钟,多呼吸一秒种这个城市的空气,这份眷恋就会更长久的留驻在这里,成为她灵魂的一部分。

          

 

房子慢慢被清空,每面墙又恢复它原来的色彩。临走前尽力清洁,希望这里也为将来的人们留下许多美好的回忆,就犹如它所带给我们的平安与满足。

          

一下午无话。傍晚十分,终于到达这一天的目的地,四顾休斯顿。

           

想想命运也真神奇,去年的飓风让我们一路颠簸逃难去了加州,新年过后峰回路转又开出三千英里成功返家。可没想到我毕业后的工作城市竟然是在旧金山,于是一家人,包括Kiwi乖乖,又要原路返回。

            

休斯顿是从新奥尔良开车去加州的必经之路,第四次来到这个城市,本来是没打算游览任何项目的,早睡早起提早上路才最重要。可没想到我们在网上随便定的旅馆就在大名鼎鼎的姚餐厅附近,暗夜里红色的“YAO”招牌格外醒目。这样全不费功夫的巧遇小柯自然不能错过,于是终于了却了在休斯顿的最后一个心愿,去姚餐厅大吃了一顿。

          

餐厅给人的第一印象十分气派,进门处是古香古色的暗木家具,左手边大堂,正红色墙面配黑色木窗格子的装饰,小包厢之间是淬火透明玻璃间隔,风格象极了大上海古雅繁华与现代简洁的融合;右手边是大间酒吧,玻璃窗外四幅姚明的巨型照片,一时间星光闪闪熠熠生辉。玻璃橱窗里是球星们签名的篮球,还有姚明巨大的球鞋。

       

 

 

如此的装潢与环境,价格却比想像之中要便宜许多,让小柯吃惊不少。对比一下新奥尔良城里大厨Philip ChanAsian Cajun Bistro,这里的性价比真是奇高。我特意点了大名鼎鼎的姚妈妈秘方上海馄饨汤,尽管汤不算特别美味,但小馄饨还真不错。大伟点了下饭的鱼香茄子鸡,量很大,鱼香味也很地道。

           

特别值得一提的是餐厅的服务,真是宾至如归。侍者彬彬有礼和蔼可亲,不停得来加水察看。我们旁边刚巧是一家生日聚会,一群美国侍者拎着面中国的黄铜小锣出来,先敲一声开场,之后将桌子团团围住,用半生不熟带着口音的中文大唱《生日快乐》歌,每唱一句就敲一下锣。我们在旁边看得要闷笑死掉,可也被这中美结合的“姚式”快乐气氛感染,不由得为他们喝起彩来。

           

没想到上路第一天,乡愁都溶进姚餐厅的馄饨汤里,再也不知悲伤的滋味。


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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 短篇游记 | no comments


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两万里逃难记(42)—— 重返家园 · 终篇


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2006年1月1日 

        

2005年12月22日,小柯一家终于返回阔别三月的家。

           

大半夜到达,所幸有电,还不至于当瞎子。没有煤气,热水暖气都没有,气温才10度,把人冻得够呛。水管有些锈住了,出来的都是黄褐色的脏水,放了一会儿才好。因为是地表水,水温冰凉,刷牙的时候牙被冰得酸痛。洗脸更是下了好大决心才把这冰凉的水泼到脸上。

          

家具都在姨妈的房子里。小柯与大伟两人思忖良久还是决定先把床搬过来睡:虽然气温寒冷,可家,永远是心里最温暖的地方啊。于是当晚盖了三层被子,Kiwi毛茸茸的挤在小柯与大伟脸中间安心入眠。

           

直到圣诞节前,几乎天天都是在搬家的重体力劳动中度过的。没有煤气无法做饭,于是一天去外面吃一顿。Uptown的餐馆小店几乎都恢复营业了,终于再次吃到中餐馆里的海鲜小蒸包,家门口小饭馆里的菠菜煎蛋卷,甚至还奢侈了一次去吃烤鱼脖子。家的味道是这样的熟悉与甜美,唯一美中不足是所有的餐馆都微微涨了价。不过看看各个餐馆酒店商店门口挂着“招人”的大牌子,看看餐馆里忙得团团转的服务生们,涨点价也不足为奇。现在就期待着29号才能通上的煤气,重拾锅铲了。

              

邻居一家四口,妈妈带着两个漂亮的儿子从德国回来,小孩已经重回学校了。知道我们没煤气,妈妈立刻把家里野营用的炉子与罐装煤气借给我们。当医生的爸爸把自己面包车里的后座卸下来变成“卡车”给我们搬家。24日圣诞夜,更邀请我们在他们家享用圣诞大餐。烛光美酒华服,还有邻里间的友情恩情。虽说南方早以热情好客而著称,可这也是头一次彼此拥有这么多的共同话题。每个人都有一段撤离的故事可讲,每个人都因重归故土而无限欣喜,每个人都有对这个城市未来的殷切展望。小柯想起为姨妈义务打扫卫生并帮忙看房子修剪门前树木的印第安老邻居,想起只有点头之交却二话不说就把自己的卡车借给我们搬家的隔壁大叔,想起逃难路上因为同是路易斯安那州车牌而相互鸣笛致意的路人…… 共同的经历,真正的惺惺相惜,灾难面前毫不犹豫伸出的援手,还有对家园的明天仍然模糊不清却十分热烈的希望。所有这一切,这比圣诞树上最明亮的星星还要璀璨美好的人性,就是新奥尔良复活的希望了吧。只要这些人在,这个城市就不会死亡,绝对不会!

                 

25日,圣诞节,远在加州的姨妈与姨夫飞到城里来修整飓风中受到一定损伤的房子。于是从圣诞到新年前夜又是一番辛苦劳动:刷墙,修理地板,打扫卫生,拾掇院子。上过山下过乡的姨夫实在是让小柯惊叹赞叹佩服。姨夫个子不高,人也不壮,带着近视眼镜,看上去本是十分斯文安静的知识分子。可就是这样的姨夫,每天7点准时起床,不吃(因为没有)早饭就开始一天的劳作。第一天姨夫一个人爬树上房顶清理所有的枯枝败叶,等我们饱睡到9点过去帮忙的时候,小房上倒下的巨大树枝已被锯断,诺大的院子几乎旧貌换新颜;这时姨夫已经在张罗着去Home Depot买工具刷天花板了。短短三四天,墙刷了,地板安了,空调进气口修了,树锯了,水塘的污水抽干了,院子里的枯枝败叶清理了,小房被白蚁蛀坏的房梁换了,柱子油漆涂好了,厨房漏水修好了,掉下来的抽屉板粘上了,煤气通了,热水暖气都来了。每个人都累得躺下就睡着了,每个人都为这样的神速进展而惊叹欣喜。

                 

姨夫英文不好,却已经和印第安老邻居成了好朋友。姨妈最爱加州湾区的阳光与浓浓的中国情调,却开始盘算什么时候搬到这里退休养老。新奥尔良这个地方,这个被飓风呼啸过被洪水吞噬过脚步蹒跚呼吸沉重的古老城市,就这样用她不可言喻的魔力又俘虏了两颗心。

            

1230日送走姨妈姨夫,31日帮助表弟沙鸥翔搬家,又是一天忙碌。晚上两个人累得没有力气出去法国区看新年焰火,于是躲在家里看电视剧《青衣》。楼上搬来了新邻居,两个十几岁的小孩活泼可爱。半夜12点,德国邻居的小小孩与楼上的大小孩一同在后院放烟火,小柯打开百叶窗里微笑的看他们被火光映得红红绿绿的笑脸。是啊,新的一年就这样来了……

             

2006年一月一日,小柯与大伟终于把最后一个箱子搬进家。画挂好,书桌上的世界地图贴上,沙发罩罩好,地毯铺上,相片摆好。我打开所有的灯,新年的第一天,我要在自己的家里,明明亮亮的度过。Kiwi今天也很高兴,因为吃到格外多的小猫饼干,不停的在走廊里跑来跑去,肚子里发出咕噜咕噜的呼呼声。晚上全家人出去吃了黎巴嫩烤羊肉过年,大伟去给朋友过生日,我与沙鸥翔则去看了场《傲慢与偏见》算作庆祝。

        

现在,我终于坐下来,终于要完成这一篇历时四个月,跨越了六千七百迈,一万公里,四分之一地球赤道长度的逃难旅程。从827日下午离家,到新年第一天就要完成的最后一个字。这是一段艰苦的旅程,是曾经混乱彷徨的心路,是感激与祝福的时光,是亲情友情爱情的绽放,是一段最值得记忆纪念的人生经历。飓风没有吹垮古老的新奥尔良,洪水也淹不灭人们的希望与祈祷。小柯一家的逃难与回归,是这个世界仍存美好与善良的见证,是众多Katrina故事中普通又特殊的一个。普通是因为这样的故事成百上千,而我正好写到自己这个;特殊是因为读到这个故事的每位朋友都如此真诚而善良,用无数的祝福与援助与我们一同走完了这段人生旅程。所以在这段旅程最后结束的时候,我只想再一次对每个读到这个故事的人说声“谢谢”!谢谢你们的关注,谢谢你们的鼓励,谢谢你们的帮助。愿大家都有一个平安健康幸福的2006年!


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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记 | no comments


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25


Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 776

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 320
两万里逃难记(41)—— 乌鸦


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 2005年12月25日

            

中国传统文化里把乌鸦当作倒霉的鸟。电视里但凡出现冷风萧萧,荒野枯木乱坟岗的镜头,总少不了一个干巴树枝上坐着一只浑身漆黑的大鸟,而且每次都会合时宜的“啊、啊”叫上两声,以示境况的凄惨或恐怖。其实乌鸦和麻雀同属雀形目,也是杂食,平时喜欢吃个昆虫啊,浆果啊什么的,极少数的在天葬地区才会去偷吃尸体。就因为黑,外加嗓音嘶哑,结果落了一世倒霉的坏名。

           

在加州的时候早上去打网球,总看到一群乌鸦在大片核桃树下逡巡。黑色的羽毛丰满油亮,有阳光的时候反射出近似靛蓝的光泽,长长又坚硬的黑褐色尖嘴叼着一个外皮还是青色的核桃在地面上神气活现的蹦来蹦去,真是十分好看的场景。乌鸦其实是万分聪明的鸟,从吃核桃这点就能略窥一二。核桃在我看来,实在是让一个懒人,比如我艾小柯,痛不欲生的果子:坚硬又多膜,榔头锤子统统上阵,手忙脚乱忙活大半天,能够吃进嘴里的不过几个;搞不好再碰上个涩的,简直要捶胸顿足哇哇大哭了。乌鸦能够毫不费力的吃到核桃,起码在吃上智商不低。还有那个家喻户晓的乌鸦喝水的故事,再一次证明这个黑不溜秋的家伙实在是有内秀。以貌取人,或者闻声辨人都是不可取的陋习也。

              

我一点都不讨厌乌鸦。相反,还对这个黑色的大鸟颇感兴趣。当然,这完全是因为我与乌鸦都有着相同的爱好:闪闪发光之物。乌鸦喜欢把闪闪发光的东西叼回自己的窝,虽然我不清楚它拿这些闪光之物作何用途,可我想无非是闲来欣赏,说不定还要相互攀比。这跟一个爱好时尚的女人实在非常相似:花出去白花花的银子,把那些闪闪发光的珠宝皮包皮鞋请回家供奉起来,聚会的时候穿戴出去惊艳亲友,而那些八百辈子也没有场合穿戴却仍然执意买回来的东西,就彻底留在香闺,成为“去年的织锦缎旗袍”,闲来把玩,满脑子都是甜蜜温柔的回忆与憧憬。

              

艾小柯虽然不够时尚,可也有一颗追求时尚的心。这就如同减肥,不管女人究竟肥不肥,总归是要减,已经上升到生活态度生活方式了,反抗也没用。既然追求时尚,那就要收藏这些亮晶晶的东西,有的便宜有的贵。鄙视乌鸦,岂不成了鄙视女人自己?

       

所以,当20051221日行游到达得克萨斯州与路易斯安那州交界处的Baumount小城时,天空中突然出现无穷多的乌鸦,聚集成一条十几米宽的黑色缎带从南向北的给天空系上一条腰带,艾小柯一点都不惊慌,绝不相信这是世界末日的征兆。把车停在一个叫做“中国咪”的美式中餐厅前,我与大伟下车仰头观看这飞鸟奇观。无穷无尽的乌鸦,不发出半点声响,老老实实的聚集成排,不知道飞向什么快乐所在。这条黑色缎带一定绵延数里之上。我们两个休息加仰望足有二十分钟之久,黑带仍未间断,大概已经飞过上万只乌鸦了吧。

            

 

不知道乌鸦是否经年迁徙的候鸟,这样万只乌鸦过蓝天的奇景确实少见。真想留在此地等待当晚新闻看这些乌鸦究竟什么来龙去脉,可惜前路漫漫,容不得再一日的耽搁。就留下如此迷题,记住今日奇景,这也算一路行程的一个闪光点哦。 

            

万只乌鸦过蓝天


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记 | no comments


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

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两万里逃难记(40)—— 得偿所愿


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2005年12月24日 

                  

  最后一次路过休斯顿,终于去看了魂牵梦系的Menil Collection.        

                          Menil Collection位于美国德州休斯顿。这座私家馆藏于1987年开放,拥有超过一万五千多件艺术品,是John and Dominique de Menil 夫妇的一生收藏,也是二十世纪全世界最著名的几个私家馆藏之一。  

           

  一进门,先被正对面的一幅名为《麦之绿》的巨大油画给震撼了一下。画面上灰白,绿与黄三种颜色混沌又透明的交织在一起,给人造成一种错觉,以为那灰白色是一块乳白色半透明塑料板的反光,仿佛透过蒙蒙雾气看清晨的青黄麦田,迷茫又不清晰。我想,这幅超现实主义的油画一定是受到凡.高《绿色麦田(Green Wheat Field)》的启发,色调色系几乎一样,可意境更加唯美浪漫。我实在是喜欢极了,在它面前左看右看又坐在对面巨大的黑色椅子上仔细端详了好半天。这样蒙胧且愉悦的画法让我想起小时候姥爷画的葡萄藤;想起第一次学画国画把黑色的墨汁泼了一纸,那些黑色的线条沿着宣纸洁白精细的纹路迅速曼延氤氲;想起很多年前看穿着紫色织锦的旗袍,梳了两条麻花辫松松的垂在胸前去看雨中的西湖;想起做了美梦清晨醒来却只记得一片模糊的线条与色块而懊恼不已……这样的模糊色彩,实在就是一个近视眼摘掉眼睛后的整个世界,优美明快,忽略细微的缺陷,将美好无限扩大。

              

  类似这样优美而震撼的作品在Menil Collection里实在太多,无法一一细述。这里与正规博物馆的区别在于,每一样作品只有作者,年代与作品名称的注释,远远放在一定距离外不打破作品的完整性。展品,尤其是画作之间留存的空间十分大,少了大博物馆的拥挤与密度感。依照Menil夫妇当初的设想,这座馆藏的艺术性应超过历史性,不给观者过多的知识而扰乱对艺术品的欣赏。所以一圈逛下来,留有最深刻印象的就是那些超现实主义作品——Menil Collection的最著名之处。

               

  这些作家里我最喜欢的是比利时超现实主义画家René Magritte。他的画色调沉暗,可每一幅又都有明快的部分。作为广告画家出身的Magritte,其作品里的人物都有些欧洲卡通意味,想像力极其丰富,很难说出他的画究竟是什么意思。可就是这些费解的构图,奇妙的组合,却创造出一种震撼心灵的力量,一种痛苦的美感,一种几乎失衡的平衡。

 

 

馆藏René Magritte的作品:La lunette d’approche,1963

 

René Magritte最著名的作品之一:The Son of Man, 1964

 

 

  小柯最喜欢的一幅是一个女人头像。远看鼻眼模糊,依稀是个红发女郎,走近才发现原来这女人的脸其实是她的身体:两只乳房,肚脐还有下体的黑色三角形刚好作为眼鼻口。整个画面精致而鬼魅,让人一面震惊,一面感叹这扭曲的和谐,同时因为这异样的美感而言语尽失。其实,我这样的描述实在是离原画的感觉十万八千里。画是视觉的艺术,是完全不同于文字的语言,这样拙劣的翻译出来必定失去原汁原味。

 

  看完Magritte,再看毕加索的真迹,那些彩色的几何图形虽然同样精彩绝伦,却没有了初看超现实主义那不平衡美感的震撼。自古以来,盛名之下必然名不副实。大概近视眼的我更欣赏柔和的色彩,毕加索的东西线条太利,对我,是太过尖锐了。

 

  还有一张不得不提及的小幅油画是美国现代超现实主义雕塑家Robert Gober的作品。画的主题是雨,背景是一片雾气氤氲的青紫色天空。地面是青草地,暗灰色的雨滴无边无际的降落下来。一朵白云,宣软如棉花糖般浮在地面,任凭雨点敲击上去。这幅小画挂在墙壁一角,在昏暗的黄色灯光下闪着幽光。一时间,我分不清那是画还是一扇窗户,我眼睛看到的仿佛另一个世界:白云生长在地面,而雨水从地面灌溉向天空。这是一幅如此悲伤的作品,可同时那朵白云又如此温柔的用雨水吟唱着一首也许叫做思念的歌。爱与哀愁,如此难以琢磨无法描述的情感,就在这样一幅小画里和谐的安静的展示在人面前。那么样强烈与奇妙的美感,那么深刻与无法解脱的悲伤,令人心动,叫人心疼。

Robert Gober多媒体雕塑作品:无题,1999-2000

 

  本以为去过Menil Collection,对休斯顿自此不必有遗憾,这个城市就可以在我的美国待行地图册上彻底被划掉了。结果,从博物馆出来后那种不想离开的感觉更加强烈。这一万五千余件作品是不定期循环展览,每一年还有若干不同的特别艺术活动,比如邀请西藏喇嘛现场制作沙画等。去一次哪里能够满足我贪得无厌的胃口!

 

            


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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments


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两万里逃难记(39)—— 鸥女郎


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2005年12月23日 

  

         

“天下第一超级磨蹭鬼!”一个枕头向我丢过来。

           

“你才是!”我不甘示弱,也丢一个回去给大伟。“光说我,你怎么不快快收拾!”

          

两个人就这样打打闹闹的收拾东西,嘴里讨论着究竟谁更磨蹭一些。Kiwi一到这个时候就特别激动,疯狂的在房间里以光速来回跑动,同时肚子里发出咕噜咕噜的声音,还时不时的哼唧上两句。

           

上午10点,我们恋恋不舍的离开了Galveston,离开这豪华的Escapes度假村。有海的窗户,会是记忆里一段美好的往事,即使这咖啡海冷漠而抑郁。一上车,刚开上路,Kiwi就决定大行方便之事,害得两个人又开窗户又捂鼻子仍然不能解气,只好转入小道停在一段海边礁石上方的空地里。大伟下车猫着腰给Kiwi做善后工作,一抬头发现车前方突然飞来一大片海鸥。

           

这些海鸥久居此地,一定已经习惯了游客,把人类当作供奉吃喝的食神,毫不惧怕,看到我们就一窝蜂聚拢来看有什么油水可刮。

            

“咱们要是有面包就好了,想不想喂海鸥?”大伟脸色兴奋,象个孩子一样嚷嚷。

         

“咦,我们不是有萨其马吗,要面包做什么?”我怕冷,怕海边的寒风,不肯下车,从塑料带里摸出一块包着透明塑料布的萨其马递给他。

            

大伟接过萨其马打开,掰下一块高高举在空中,正准备要仍给海鸥们。这些巨大的白肚皮鸟儿们看见了,呼啦一下立刻就聚拢来盘旋在大伟头顶上方,一边嗷嗷叫着,一边拼命拥挤着抢占有力地盘,时刻准备下嘴争夺。

            

我坐在车里,从挡风玻璃里向斜上方看出去,一大片白白肚皮,连眼睛都要晃晕了。赶紧抓了相机跳下车去抢拍。

          

拍了好几张,发现这些家伙们实在是不怕人,完全没把我放在眼里,根本当作透明,只盯着那萨其马拼命挥动翅膀。我大喜,立刻放下相机也去抢萨其马:这千载难逢的与海鸥近距离亲密接触怎能不拍照留念证明!

           

看到食物易手,这些海鸥们立刻转移目标开始对我感兴趣,一个个拼命大叫着就要扑将上来。我又高兴又好奇,又怕它们吃到兴头疯狂的来啄我的眼睛,于是就把萨其马掰作小块冲它们扔出去。这些鸟们早练就了空中夺食的秘籍,嘴一张,绝不落空。

           

三个萨其马都丢光了,我又拿新的,同时向大海的方向走。海鸥们呼啦啦跟上来,如同一片漂浮的云朵跟着我,在地上投下杂乱的黑影。这时的艾小柯,就如同马戏团里神气的驯兽员,趾高气扬的带着她的动物们四处逡巡。这实在太好玩了!

            

食物喂光了,海鸥们不甘心的再徘徊一会才都散了。我与大伟这才觉得冷,心满意足的回到车里,开足暖气继续上路。

           

鸥女郎

 

海鸥海鸥


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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记 | no comments


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两万里逃难记(38)—— 咖啡海 · 遗恨


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2005年12月20日 

           

距离休斯顿45迈的海滨小城Galveston是德州一个非常受欢迎的度假胜地,当然,那是在夏天。隆冬时节,海边冷风飕飕,寒气刺骨。小柯与大伟带着Kiwi就在这样一个夜黑风高之夜踏浪来到位于Galveston西海岸沙滩上的Escapes度假村。

            

我们来得匆忙,忘了应该提前打电话预约的。毕竟,这种度假村不是一般酒店,前台只从早8点开放到晚8点,之后客人的房间钥匙就被放入门口的密码箱,自己输入密码取出钥匙进屋。我们两个哪里知道,进了度假村大门转了一圈没愣是没找到前台。原来这海滩上的房子为了防止飓风,一楼都是停车场,被称作地面层;房间从二楼开始,不过楼层按一层算起。打了半天电话好不容易拿到钥匙,问值班的黑人大叔这个时节客人多不多。大叔回答:“别说,现在还真有不少人来。”

           

“那他们都来做什么呢?”我紧追不舍。

         

“我也不知道。现在这么冷,不知道大家都来做什么。”大叔耸耸肩,满脸莫名其妙的表情回答到。

          

我想,我们两个一定也被这位大叔归结到这群不知好歹大冬天跑到冰冷冻人海边来的怪人啦!

           

“管它呢”,我暗自思忖,“反正都已经来了,先过了今晚再说。”

       

度假村里如我想像一般豪华。客厅外面就是无敌海景,伴着阵阵海浪确是十分浪漫的所在。

            

第二日,日上三杆,我们出门去领略Galveston的风光。这个小岛长有30迈,宽却不过3迈,沿海的一条Seawall大道东西贯穿全岛,路上有一个旗舰酒店,生生建在海上的几十根水泥柱子上,长方形的大楼两面都是海,半夜枕着涛声入眠一定不错。酒店旁边是几个纪念品店,满口摆着有脸盆一般大的贝壳。抬头望天,一片湛蓝,偶尔飘过白云朵朵。如果不是寒风萧瑟,景色着实不错。

            

如此美景,可惜大海的颜色竟然是咖啡。闲来信步海滩,发现这沙滩的颜色也是咖啡褐色,上面布满了落潮后大海遗落的贝壳。这从德州直到佛罗里达州的墨西哥湾海岸绵延有近两千迈,从西向东海水颜色变化很大。德州这里是咖啡海,进入路易斯安那州与阿拉巴马州,海水颜色逐渐变绿,越向佛罗里达州方向走海水越蓝。到达南端的迈阿迷与Key West (基韦斯特) 后海水就更加透明,蓝得更加澄澈。再出离美国向加勒比海方向推进,那更是蓝得人心旷神怡,连眼睛都要醉掉酥透,但愿忘掉人世一切烦恼,只要迷失在那桃花源里。

           

我觉得,这大海颜色的变化与海滩沙质与海水深浅有极大的关系。水浅的地方海水颜色就受沙滩颜色影响较大:咖啡沙滩映出咖啡海,金黄沙滩和着蓝天就变出绿色海水,而佛罗里达州和加勒比海的白沙滩就给出最纯粹的蓝色汪洋。离开海岸向海洋腹地走,海水变深,海底的颜色就不再重要了,所以哪里都是蓝色天地。

              

Galveston这片海滩极浅,夏天绝对是个戏水的好地方。只可惜这里是片咖啡沙滩,大海也化作咖啡心情,带着无尽的忧郁与惆怅。站在岸边,低头数着脚边的贝壳,抬头望着一波一波的白色浪花,让人不由得想到9月份的那场飓风。而此时此刻,我站在孕育了这世纪灾难的墨西哥湾面前,前尘往事一齐涌上心头。这场风暴,令我在3个月前远离这片海湾,也让我在3个月后鬼使神差再次来到它的怀抱,来看这咖啡色的大海。人生,是不是就象这杯里泛着白沫的拿铁咖啡,苦乐交织,永远不知道明天命运会带自己去什么地方?

             

休息了两天,20号决定开车一个钟头去休斯顿城里看久违了的Menil Collection。这个博物馆可以说是休斯顿最为著名的博物馆之一,即使在全国范围也是十分突出的私家收藏。去年74日,我与大伟特意造访,可惜赶上了博物馆都不开门的星期一外加国庆假日,悻悻然空跑一趟。这次是礼拜二,无论如何也不能再错过了。

             

下了59号高速公路七拐八绕几次险些迷路,总算捱到博物馆门口发现竟然周一、二都休息。老天,我险些没气晕过去,就差在门口放声大哭啦!咬牙跺脚绕着博物馆大楼开了两圈,只好再按原路返回。这个Menil Collection,难道必须要艾小柯三顾茅庐不成?!

            

为了平复我受伤的心灵,大伟决定请我去外面吃饭。两个人大中午的跑到Denny’s Diner吃早点,我特意点了个最大个儿的煎蛋卷,决定就由肚子为眼睛解气了。即使如此,也还是胸中意难平。于是决定明日整装上路时再来,不看完誓不罢休。

             

旗舰酒店

 

海边小店

 

咖啡海


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Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25


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两万里逃难记(37)—— 圣诞前的饕餮


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2005年12月18日

             

从圣安东尼奥以西的德州与东部城镇林立的部分有非常大的区别,甚至让人怀疑是否是同一块土地。

          

这一段的德州山脉都是平顶,与犹他州的平顶红山十分相近,一座座一峰峰相连,延绵800里。与犹他州不同的是,这里的山脉大多是土黄色,上面布满了星星点点的绿色灌木丛,少了几份红岩山石的雄伟气势。尽管如此,这一段的景色依然十分优美,尤其是那劈山建路的气魄。

           

虽说德州山势并不高,但I-10仍有相当一部分是盘山路。不过遇到相对低矮的山脉,德州人就采取火爆劈山术,把一座大山横劈作两或三段。长长的公路从缺口里通过,实在是非常壮观而激动人心。

             

路旁就是大片的灌木丛。这样好的隐蔽场所自然成为野鹿野兔的天然乐土,所以这一片广袤土地也成为德州猎人的最爱。路上下去加油,竟然迎面遇到一个满载而归的猎人,SUV后面的拖车里躺着刚刚捕获的鹿,已经刨膛破肚堆满冰块:估计这就是猎人家的圣诞大餐了。

             

这些可怜的鹿们可不仅仅死于谋杀,还有相当一部分是车祸的牺牲品。一路粗粗数来,竟然有至少30头尸横路边,让人阵阵心惊。

               

看着这些可怜的家伙们,小柯不禁奇怪,在动物保护风气如此强烈的国家同时也存在着纯粹为了娱乐的动物射杀。看来,不仅人分三六九等,就是动物也存在着出身的不平等。天下大同仍然只是神话也。

            

夜半时分,我们终于到达了目的地Galveston,等待我们的Escapes!度假村究竟是什么样子呢?       

          

德州平顶山

 

猎鹿季节

 

劈山建路

 

横尸街头


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记 | no comments


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25


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两万里逃难记(36)—— 戈壁掠影


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2005年12月17日 

17日,横跨三州。

          

从亚利桑那州直到新墨西哥州,一路上几乎都是戈壁。其实,英文上是叫索诺若沙漠地带的,不过沙漠(desert)这个词,动词上是抛弃的意思,名词泛指一切不被接受的荒凉地方。这和中国文化里所指的沙漠有很大的区别。不管是在犹他州的盐湖城沙漠,还是亚利桑那州的沙漠,根本就没有大漠千里黄沙滔滔的壮丽景象。所谓沙漠,就是少人居住的荒地,一片一片的长满低矮的小灌木丛,实在叫做戈壁更合适些。

           

这样的戈壁里,竟然生长着一种神奇的植物:超级巨大无敌之索瓜若仙人掌(Saguaro Cactus)。这些巨大的仙人掌能够长到两、三米高,干颈粗大,上面是硬如钢针的粗刺。从凤凰城直到亚利桑那州第二大城市Tucson一路都是这样的无敌巨人仙人掌。放眼望去,天色湛蓝,白云朵朵,一片土黄戈壁万里无垠。一丛一丛的低矮黄绿灌木荆棘中站着一个个这样张牙舞爪的绿色巨人,这完全就是传统西部片里的布景啦。不过阴雨天(虽然这里一年日照有300多天)时候这些孤零零的绿色家伙们就要倒霉了,成为大地的避雷针,被劈得东倒西歪。

             

说到Tucson,这还真是一个非常有趣得地方。这里的印第安文化十分强劲,有不少印第安艺术品与博物馆。同时由于地广人稀,那些占地巨大的博物馆也都选择在这里安家,比如毕玛飞机博物馆,戴维斯-漭森空军基地,全国最大的凯特峰星象台等等。除此之外,城北30迈有一个超级巨大自给自足的生态基地(Biosphere 2),就是一个超级巨大全封闭的透明半球体,里面是一个迷你生态系统,19918位科学家进入这个封闭生态系统生活了两年,据说是为了将来人类建立太空站做准备。如果不是匆匆路过,这个Tucson城小柯是一定要好好造访的。

            

I-10经过Tucson的时候我发现路边的房子基本都是沙漠色调,偶尔有几个超凡脱俗加了个红顶。这些都是民居,怎么看起来象军营?原来,亚利桑那州的原则是要保持沙漠的自然风貌,不要人为的绿洲。当然,这些沙漠色的房子未必完全是这样政策的产物,不过城市里是绝对不鼓励住户种植草坪绿地的。沙漠里严重缺水,虽然90年代早期造价四十亿的引水计划引入了科罗拉多河水,但仍无法完全解决水源问题。所以这样的自然风貌政策,一方面是保护沙漠地貌,另一方面也是为了节水。

             

一路继续向东,进入新墨西哥州后,地貌状况与亚利桑那州相差无几。可惜南部这段的新墨西哥州没有什么特别的城镇,著名的Santa Fe 更远在州北。没多久,天就黑了,我们也终于进入了已经四次造访的德州。

       

超级无敌巨大之索瓜若仙人掌

 

亚利桑那州戈壁

 

新墨西哥州戈壁


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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments


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两万里逃难记(35)—— 有凤来仪


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2005年12月19日 

           

16号我们离开加州,向Arizona州的凤凰城进发。

           

一路无甚风景,依旧是那些无边无际的白色风车化作青鸟,指引我们八千里路云月。

          

凤凰城占地面积极广,道路十分开阔。这座位于沙漠中的美国第六大城市基本是在空调普及后才以极快的速度蓬勃发展起来的。冬季不是最好的季节,可也不坏。要想来,最好是在春季,整个城市气温宜人,空气中飘满橘子花的清香。夏天这里就是最难受的地方了,平均气温能够达到107华氏度,骄阳能把人皮肤烤疼。

            

小柯承蒙一位朋友接济,有幸投靠她家。小区里一派圣诞景象,家家户户万紫千红的圣诞灯饰,门口红色圣诞老人的笑脸诉说着这里住户的殷实与富足。其实进入凤凰城里后几乎所有看到的街区都是这样的中产阶级,贫富分化,在这里,至少从住房上是不大看得出来的。

             

旅游指南上说凤凰城被很多人认为是“缺乏灵魂”的城市,去Arizona旅游,就不如住在相隔仅仅116迈的Tucson。其实,这也怪不得凤凰城。俗话说乱世出英雄,这里人人中产,没有太过穷困的阶层,也就孕育不出深刻震撼的文化艺术。想想大多数的艺术之都,欧洲的巴黎罗马,美国的芝加哥纽约新奥尔良,无一不是充满矛盾欲望罪恶。恶之灵罪之花,羽化在艺术作品里,变就最刺痛人心的戏剧或色彩形状。

           

晚上友人请客吃了墨西哥大餐,味道十分纯正。两个都爱吃奶酪的家伙碰在一起那可真是臭味相投,直吃到盘底朝天。朋友手巧,十分喜爱烹饪,一度梦想去法国当位知名的糕点师。尽管没当成糕点师,可手艺也是出神入化,一人做出几十人的大餐那也是不在话下。朋友的小儿子十二,家教极好,最难得的是小小年纪就有一颗懂得感恩的心,时时把“感谢妈妈”的话放在嘴边,记在心里。看着母子两个毫不掩饰的亲情,看着朋友年轻如二十几岁的如花笑颜,小柯知道,这就是一个女人最大的幸福了。

             

其实,生活的艺术就是这么简单吧:心怀感激,化解矛盾。这样的宗旨倒是十分符合凤凰城的状态,虽然生活平淡些;否则,如何有凤来仪?


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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记 | no comments