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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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两万里逃难记(36)—— 戈壁掠影


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2005年12月17日 

17日,横跨三州。

          

从亚利桑那州直到新墨西哥州,一路上几乎都是戈壁。其实,英文上是叫索诺若沙漠地带的,不过沙漠(desert)这个词,动词上是抛弃的意思,名词泛指一切不被接受的荒凉地方。这和中国文化里所指的沙漠有很大的区别。不管是在犹他州的盐湖城沙漠,还是亚利桑那州的沙漠,根本就没有大漠千里黄沙滔滔的壮丽景象。所谓沙漠,就是少人居住的荒地,一片一片的长满低矮的小灌木丛,实在叫做戈壁更合适些。

           

这样的戈壁里,竟然生长着一种神奇的植物:超级巨大无敌之索瓜若仙人掌(Saguaro Cactus)。这些巨大的仙人掌能够长到两、三米高,干颈粗大,上面是硬如钢针的粗刺。从凤凰城直到亚利桑那州第二大城市Tucson一路都是这样的无敌巨人仙人掌。放眼望去,天色湛蓝,白云朵朵,一片土黄戈壁万里无垠。一丛一丛的低矮黄绿灌木荆棘中站着一个个这样张牙舞爪的绿色巨人,这完全就是传统西部片里的布景啦。不过阴雨天(虽然这里一年日照有300多天)时候这些孤零零的绿色家伙们就要倒霉了,成为大地的避雷针,被劈得东倒西歪。

             

说到Tucson,这还真是一个非常有趣得地方。这里的印第安文化十分强劲,有不少印第安艺术品与博物馆。同时由于地广人稀,那些占地巨大的博物馆也都选择在这里安家,比如毕玛飞机博物馆,戴维斯-漭森空军基地,全国最大的凯特峰星象台等等。除此之外,城北30迈有一个超级巨大自给自足的生态基地(Biosphere 2),就是一个超级巨大全封闭的透明半球体,里面是一个迷你生态系统,19918位科学家进入这个封闭生态系统生活了两年,据说是为了将来人类建立太空站做准备。如果不是匆匆路过,这个Tucson城小柯是一定要好好造访的。

            

I-10经过Tucson的时候我发现路边的房子基本都是沙漠色调,偶尔有几个超凡脱俗加了个红顶。这些都是民居,怎么看起来象军营?原来,亚利桑那州的原则是要保持沙漠的自然风貌,不要人为的绿洲。当然,这些沙漠色的房子未必完全是这样政策的产物,不过城市里是绝对不鼓励住户种植草坪绿地的。沙漠里严重缺水,虽然90年代早期造价四十亿的引水计划引入了科罗拉多河水,但仍无法完全解决水源问题。所以这样的自然风貌政策,一方面是保护沙漠地貌,另一方面也是为了节水。

             

一路继续向东,进入新墨西哥州后,地貌状况与亚利桑那州相差无几。可惜南部这段的新墨西哥州没有什么特别的城镇,著名的Santa Fe 更远在州北。没多久,天就黑了,我们也终于进入了已经四次造访的德州。

       

超级无敌巨大之索瓜若仙人掌

 

亚利桑那州戈壁

 

新墨西哥州戈壁


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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments

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