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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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爱在印第安之夏


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2006年9月29日 

        

         

旧金山的天气说来真是奇怪,人家夏天的时候它偏偏冷得要死,漫天湿雾,阳光难得一见。就算见得了阳光,那也大多是靠近海岸的所在,海风越吹越凉。所以旧金山人用来区分游客和本地人的方法很简单:看看街上哪位在夏天时节穿得短衣襟小打扮两胳膊抱在胸前瑟瑟发抖就基本错不了啦。当然,游客们大多同时第一次体会旧金山超过30度的大斜坡们,一个个俯首弯腰,嘿呦哼哧的费力爬山。所以这种“大猩猩姿态”就成了旧金山本地人嘻笑游客们的第二个话题。

     

笑归笑,旧金山市的旅游氛围是相当友善的。尤其是进入九月,从月中到十月初这三、四个礼拜是一年里来旧金山旅游的最佳时节。这段时间被称作“印第安之夏”,据说是因为当初北美的印第安人在这一时节开始秋收享受一年劳动成果。后来“印第安之夏”被引申用作形容秋天里的夏天,在旧金山,这段时间是全年里最温暖最阳光灿烂的黄金旅游季节,每个礼拜都活动不断,大大小小的露天电影节、音乐节、艺术节、唐人街的中秋街会,龙舟大赛等等都赶到这个时候进行。当然,还有最最著名的——旧金山同性恋大游行。

         

三藩这个城市的兼容并包真不是空有其名。不仅种族文化大杂烩大融合,在性取向问题上更是开放自由。著名的同性恋区Castro位于旧金山市中南部,Castro整条街彩虹旗(同性恋的标志)飘扬,与众不同的性取向在这里是值得骄傲需要宣扬的理念。街角的酒吧们大多前卫而华贵,透过干净的大玻璃窗能看到里面笑语喧哗的精致男人们,鲜绿小花格的裤子,粉红竖条微微泛光的衬衣,绣花的腰带,一丝不苟光可鉴人的意大利皮鞋…… 当然,还有赤裸上身手挽着手共同过街的标准健壮肌肉男们。“同性恋”这个词不仅绝无贬义,甚至有赞扬的意味,表示一个男人有身材有品位有时尚感。其实,同性恋的骄傲在三藩城里绝不仅限于同性恋区。某天晚饭后我与大伟趁着夕阳还没落去的时光去离家两条街的海岸公园散步,被阳光度成金黄色的绿草坪上布满了星星点点的彩色小毯子,一对对情侣或坐或卧,呢喃低语。其中一对格外甜蜜,两人紧紧依偎着,身边还躺着一条温顺的大狗。我一边啧啧感叹着,一边慢慢向他们的方向走去,偷偷用眼瞄人家,看是什么样的帅哥美女组合。近视眼的我走近了才发现事实大大出乎我预料,原来这对超级甜蜜的情侣竟然是两位鹤发白须的老爷爷,两个人又慈祥又恩爱。我一边暗笑,又一边偷偷羡慕他们:能够在花甲的年纪依旧保持热恋的温度,这样的爱情,也算是惊天地泣鬼神了吧。

       

所以在旧金山,爱情就是爱情,跟性别种族年龄都没有关系。越是不被传统接受不被世人承认的情感越需要相关群体的支持,需要展示需要庆祝。这就是旧金山九月爱节大游行的宗旨,它宣扬的是个人选择的自由,平等与人权。游行前好几个星期Castro区就人声鼎沸了,来自全国各地的同性恋、双向恋、变性人与特殊性取向者们兴高采烈的制作、购买华丽暴露的服饰,不同的社区组织相互介绍支持为游行作准备;而游行这一天,就连市政府也挂上一面巨大的彩虹旗来庆祝这一年一度的特殊节日。

         

当然,如果仅仅是普通的游行,就算游行着都有与众不同的性取向,恐怕也不足以吸引全世界那么多人来猎奇。三藩爱节大游行的最大特点在于它包括两个特殊群体:全裸游行者们与性虐嗜好(S&M)群体。

           

全裸可不是象征性的全裸,那绝对是真刀真枪大大方方的全裸。与欧洲足球比赛上的裸奔者不同,全裸的游行者们不用担心“有伤风化”的指控,完全充满自信的展示躯体享受人与自然的合二为一。不管年轻的年老的身材好的身材差的,只要有胆子不在乎路人的目光那就裸吧。我想这些天体论实践者们一方面是享受裸露所带来的激动感与新鲜感,更重要的是传达一种无畏的信息:真正的自由不惧怕任何不同的声音与目光,要的就是这份坦荡,这份洒脱。

           

其实我很欣赏这些无畏的天体实践者。他们裸露的大方自然,他们有勇气、有行动,不说空话。和裸露者比起来,性虐嗜好群体是更为复杂的一群。男男女女穿上黑的红的裸露皮衣皮裤,脸上化着五颜六色的浓妆,手里拿着千奇百怪的道具,什么手铐皮鞭皮棒皮绳,色彩鲜艳种类繁多。这群兴高采烈的男女们边走边表演,尤其有游客围观照相的时候,更是卖力摆出姿态,其疯狂程度不亚于新奥尔良狂欢节游行结束后波旁街上的露天性爱大放送。

           

因为去看珍宝岛上的龙舟大赛,今年的同性恋大游行我们只赶上一个尾巴。不过意外的发现原来游行结束后在市政厅前的广场上竟然是规模浩大的电子音乐狂欢派对。全场密密麻麻的年轻人,大部分都穿了一般鬼节才看到的各式服装,聚集在一个个由巨大音箱装饰的临时舞台或者卡车前随着强劲的电子音乐节拍扭着舞着。三藩的街舞高手这时也都欢聚一堂了,大家围成圈子排开场地,年轻的男孩们争相恐后的做出各种超高难度的舞蹈动作。市政广场中心是一排排卖零食饮料的帐篷,好大一片都由啤酒公司占据着。游行完了的走到这个终点站,买杯酒,也别管是裸着还是光着,反正整场也没几个清醒的,大家就都不分你我一起跳舞。放眼望去,满眼肉色无边,这情形真瑰异极了。

        

            

这样光怪陆离千奇百怪的旧金山真真合了小柯的胃口,强烈满足了我“生命不息,猎奇不止”的好奇心。不知道我对这个城市的感情,会不会从这个印第安之夏开始慢慢生长起来,那,又是一番新天地了。


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January 1st, 2008
Posted by aixiaoke | 短篇游记, 我的旧金山 | no comments

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