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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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两万里逃难记(34)—— 中国殖民地


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2005年12月18日 

            

位于洛杉矶市中心的老中国城实在是一块神秘又奇怪的土地。

            

仅有几街之隔,洛杉矶市中心商业区是高楼林立,夜晚华灯璀璨,那绝对是走在时尚的最前端;而老中国城却是一片红香绿玉的旖旎风情,时光上仿佛倒退了数十年。据说,这里的华裔大概有20万,大部分来自广东与四川,在中国城里经营餐饮业与小商品贸易。

               

沿着北Hill Street与北Spring Street慢慢逛下去,街边是一个个的小店铺,卖的是刺绣与镶着塑料闪光片的俗气绣花鞋,大小红绿蓝塑料盆,开箱散装花旗参,大小河海干货海鲜,一盒一盒从中国进口的中药西药。靠近公车站是街头报刊摊,摆满了香港明报壹周刊,大陆台湾的各种杂志。街对面一个小火车站,建的是飞檐翘角,外贴红黄琉璃瓦。这里的的街名在英文下面都是中文注释,连美国的银行橱窗里的广告全部都是中文。

             

早起与大伟去吃早点,穿过一片仿佛南京夫子庙商业区的红墙绿瓦。南方风格西饼店外聚集着几十位闲逛的中年与老年人。他们大都穿着蓝黑长裤,毛线织的马甲,围着一个象棋盘谈笑风生。和国内捧着小茶壶溜早的老头们唯一的区别在于,他们大多喝的是纸杯的咖啡。小区中心花池子边坐着许多老头老太在唠嗑,也有年轻点的男人,穿着仿佛中山装的深蓝套装,脚上一双白色球鞋,手里拎个塑料袋,双眼茫然,不知道是等待开工还是纯粹发呆。

             

穿过小区拐个弯是个潮州小饭馆,早点正卖豆浆油条。窗户上贴着彩色电光纸剪成的“米饭、炒面”字迹,有些地方字迹脱落了,露出常年缺乏清洁沾满尘土的黑边。小饭馆里面桌凳还算清洁,靠近后堂供着关公神龛,红色长明灯幽幽的亮着,香炉里有几根残香。

             

老板娘是潮州人,已经在这里生活经营了17年。大概是店里没人,她乐得跟我们聊天,顺便拼命推销店里的招牌炒河粉。来美国几年,小柯与大伟哪见过如此热情拼命推销的仗势,不得已点了个炸鱼丸,算不辜负老板娘的一番苦心。店里人少,除了老板娘,还有一位年约五十的大妈,黑色九分筒裤,黑色宽根皮鞋,露出白白的一截袜子,上罩一件红粉小夹克,明明是七十年代装扮。她不时走到门口,讲起带着浓重潮州口音的英文向过往行人招徕生意。小柯吃着油条,喝着装在塑料红花大碗里的甜豆浆,一时间突然时空错乱,我难道穿越了时空隧道,回到三、四十年代的上海小镇?

                

老板娘话多,拼命问我们哪里来的,到洛杉矶做什么。临走顺便推销朋友代卖的便宜毯子,吉祥话一句接一句。我和大伟几乎是逃一样跑出来,总算吸两口新鲜空气。路边的小学里小孩正在早操,满眼都是中国小孩,隐隐有广东话传进耳朵,仔细听,又好像是英文。

              

大伟说:“这哪里是美国?明明就是旧中国,是美国里的中国殖民地。”这话总结得真好。老中国城里的移民都来得早,在这里几十年。他们会讲英语的少,整个社区里自给自足,所有新闻消息要么人传人,要么来自过期了的香港台湾报纸杂志。与改革开放后的大陆相比,这里消息其实更为闭塞。近年来移民政策收紧,新来移民减少,年轻人更不愿意到如此传统乃至落后的地区生活,老中国城缺乏新鲜血液的供给。在这种情况下,这里如同把几十年前的中国原封不动搬到洛杉矶,封闭起来,原汁原味到底。

              

老中国城里是吃不到新近流行的四川水煮鱼,内蒙小肥羊或者麻辣小龙虾的。这里只有传统的海鲜,清蒸鲈鱼,姜葱龙虾的味道倒也新鲜可口。要吃好的,就要去洛杉矶周边的新中国城,比如San Gabriel大街。这里的中国城离传统很远,店铺崭新,中国字的超级霓虹灯闪耀着北京上海广州一样的蓬勃生机。随便一家饭馆,四川湖南天津北京,各地美食味道都是一等一的超级顶呱呱。在这里,英文是不必讲的,中文足够。

             

 洛杉矶,旧金山,还有加州的广袤土地,实实在在是移民的天堂。从文化上讲,这里就是新意义上的中国殖民地,是无数人梦想开始的地方。         

                

老中国城里的美龄路

 

潮州小馆


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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments


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两万里逃难记(33)—— 环球影城


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2005年12月18日

                

洛杉矶最著名的是好莱坞,好莱坞最著名的是电影。于是,小柯与大伟决定分一天给环球影城,在电影事业最发达的好莱坞体会惊险刺激的电影之旅。

            

与奥兰多的环球影城不同,这里的环球主体乐园只有一个,少了冒险岛的超级英雄体验。不过这里的环球影城是真正的影城,里面无数的摄影棚都是正投入使用,有电影电视在实地拍摄的。45分钟的小火车游览能够带游客走遍那些影棚与外景。当然,影棚里面是别有洞天,可惜都是镜花水月,只能匆匆看过灰色外墙和巨大的白色标号,十分不过瘾。不过那些外景可就是真材实料,比如出现在Bruce Almighty,Jim Carry风掀美女裙的纽约街景,Desperate Housewife里奶油黄的房子,War of the Worlds里坠毁的客机……等等等等。除此之外,当然也少不了实地体验电影中的灾难镜头,比如地震震到地铁破裂,洪水倒灌入地下。虽然看起来十分逼真,车里的人倒是毫发无伤,虚惊一场。

           

如果这个模拟灾难场景不过瘾,那后面还有更惊险刺激的电影体验。轻松如Shrek 4D电影,激烈如Mummy的极速翻滚,还有《回到未来》的全息体验。不过小柯最喜欢还是那些台上台下能够互动的娱乐节目,例如电影特效的展示。最早的特效都比较简陋,往往运用蓝屏,前面演员表演,后面手动合成。于是两位观众被请上台去志愿展示蓝屏的功用,其中的女孩子要表演看到窗外巨大的猫咪后极度惊恐,然后奋力大战猫爪的场景。那个巨大猫爪原来是绑在一个长柄上的毛绒造型,样子跟鸡毛掸子类似,由工作人员拿好伸进镜头假扮猫爪。两位主持人真是超级幽默,加上不会表演的志愿观众,那场面真是要多好笑有多好笑。

           

那些刀割人手血流满身的镜头原来也都是超级假冒:刀子是特制的,刃上突然凹进去一块,凹的弧度正好椭圆,接近人胳膊,造成刀子割进胳膊的假象。那血,在黑白电影时代就是Hershey的巧克力汁,现在呢,变成了茄红素加玉米糖浆,一买就是一大瓶。

            

最搞笑的部分是主持人请一位小观众上台展示电脑特级。小观众穿上连着无数电线的模拟动作马甲,面对一个丑陋的大狗怪,控制狗怪模型的动作。人动,模型也动,酷吧?别急,模型立刻就失控了,怎么也不动。然后狗怪眼睛里突然亮起红灯,模型失控,开始自由活动吓唬观众。原来大家都被晃点了!什么遥控模型,那分明就是一个人穿着狗怪的衣服,又是超级搞笑的特别节目!

              

这样互动的节目除了特效展示,还有动物明星的表演。甚至电影也借鉴了这样的方式,全方位调动观众的一切感官。所谓4D,就是除了视觉立体之外,还有触觉。Shrek电影里驴子打喷嚏的时候观众脸上会被喷上水,《终结者2》里演员进出屏幕,观众还能闻到最著名打斗场景里机械的味道。总之在这样的电影体验里,现代科技正使用一切手段让游客切身进入电影情节之中,将这份新鲜刺激扩大至无穷。

              

当然,大概是因为第二次来环球影城,小柯感觉主题乐园的项目虽然好玩,但却没有一个项目特别突出,远远不及奥兰多环球影城里的冒险岛来得更激荡人心。同样是侏罗纪公园体验,好莱坞这个基本上就是一个设计比较精巧的急流勇进项目,并不十分可怕。

             

不过影城里的城市之路还是一样的繁华璀璨,如同迷你型的拉斯维加斯大道。这样明媚的不夜城才配得上好莱坞这名利之所,把黑夜燃尽高声欢歌。走在上面不当心,可能连灵魂都要丢掉在这浮光声色里。

             

这,就是电影的魅力吧。

              

电影中的纽约街景

 

Desperate Housewife 实景

 

War of Worlds里坠毁的飞机

 

Backdraft里的爆炸性大火

 

Water World表演场景

 

Animal Planet现场表演

 

City Walk之夜


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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments


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两万里逃难记(32)—— 小巫见大巫


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2005年12月17日

         

洛杉矶说来也算一座山城,尤其是好莱坞的比佛利山庄,那实实在在的是一座大山。盘山公路一圈一圈的绕上去,小路十分陡峭。往往拐一个大弯,从山背面迎面过来一辆大车,着实吓人一跳。而那些传说中的影星歌星的亿万豪宅,就分布在这样一个险峻所在。其中横贯山庄的Muholland Drive,在2001年被当作电影之名,上演一段惊心动魄的惊悚片。

        

与比佛利山庄相连的有两条横贯东西的著名大道:好莱坞与日落大道。好莱坞大道完全是商业区的作风,中间那段两边的人行道上是一个接一个的金光五星,上面刻着无数明星的大名,绵延不绝,这就是那星光大道啦。可惜我们行色匆匆,只能略微浏览,也没找到成龙同学的手印。星光大道两旁是一个个的纪念品商店,其规模都不及上海南京路或天津的滨江道,只勉强达到一般小城市中心的繁华程度。只有再向西行,有大概两三个街区的范围,才看到大连锁店气派非凡的身姿。这实在与我脑子里想像的好莱坞大相径庭。

           

日落大道与好莱坞大道平行,越靠近比佛利山庄越是住宅区。附近的豪华街区都是经年松树掩映,林阴大道两侧是成片绿地与美丽豪宅。虽说规模已相当惊人,但和比佛利山庄上的比起来真是小巫见大巫。山上的亿万豪宅不仅林阴掩映,而且都是庭院深深,路上行人能看到的无非是两扇雕花生铁大门,和里面隐隐约约的宽阔道路。至于房子究竟光景如何,就只能任凭猜测了。日落大道上这些能够看得见的风景,大概只能算是豪宅中的小弟,给真正的大哥们挡道护驾。

             

由日落大道向东往洛杉矶市中心去,街上景色也逐渐破败起来。涂鸦多了,便宜的小旅馆多了,风格也和任何一个城市拥挤脏乱的程度相差无几。唯一告诉游人这里真正是电影之都的,就是那无处不在的超级电影海报。它们可以出现在任何一幢高楼的侧面,占据任何一个巨幅广告牌。不过当小柯看到蓝眸红唇,青丝飘飘的章子怡几乎四层楼高的超级海报的时候,还是吃了一惊。那东方的脸孔,西方的神态就这样目空一切的俯视着日落大道,望向那不可一世的好莱坞。这样的东西交杂,看上去真是无比的性感与神秘。

  

 

日落大道上的章子怡


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Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25


Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 776

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两万里逃难记(31)—— Golden State


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2005年12月14日

               

为什么加州被称为“Golden State”,今天的旅途终于给出了答案。

       

在加州居住了将近三个月,终于是时候重返家园了。艾小柯,大伟和可爱的Kiwi再次踏上了3000迈征程,正式重返新奥尔良。

           

第一站就是著名的洛杉矶。沿着5号公路,一路两旁都是牧场和果园。现在是加州的冬天,牧场的草都变作金黄。远远望去,只叫人想起“黄金州”这个词来。当然,被称作黄金地带的加州自然不是为了这个颜色,不过小柯眼中这片金光万里,倒真映了这词的本意。

                   

金黄的草场上,成群的黑牛在阳光下悠闲的吃着草。别看这景色虽好,可气味却着实难闻。连熟睡中的Kiwi都被臭醒了,睁着迷惑的大圆眼睛东瞧西闻,看车里进了什么东西。还好这片气味蓬勃的牧场不算太大。接下来是大片大片的绿地,映着红彤彤不知道是什么作物的一大块,再配上天边突然飘来的一片雾,实在是一幅绝美的印象派作品。

          

除了这片金黄与红艳,从旧金山到洛杉矶的旅程最特殊的就是山上成排的风车了。因为能源危机,风车在加州的电力行业中成为十分重要的一环,它们的倩影也成为加州公路上的特殊景观。一个个雪白的站成行,顶天立地的在阳光下舒展着三片翅膀,在微风中旋转着,也在小柯心中歌唱着,飞舞着,这就是“一行白鹭上青天”的美景了。

             

到达LA已经接近六点,正赶上下班时间大堵车。这个全美第二大城市果然实力雄厚,车流不断。一家人住进了中国城内的Best Western。别看是连锁的美国旅馆,到了中国城可真就入乡随俗。不仅名字变成龙门旅馆,连里面的装饰都是古香古色。前台前先放两把红木镶珠贝花纹的太师椅壮门面,柜台后负责迎接的老伯更是一身明黄的员外氅,柜台上一面镇宅铜锣。一时间,小柯仿佛置身电影里30年代的老上海,迷失在古今中外错落交杂的时光隧道里。房间里也是一样的中国:山水国画,明黄福字靠垫,描金龙的黑陶花盆,小小的阳台外面是满满闪光的中国字霓虹灯。这个时候,如果小柯能够穿上一条镶金边的墨绿高开叉旗袍,戴上莹润又俗气的珍珠项链,手里再不经意的夹跟又细又长的香烟,那简直就是王家卫电影里颓废又神秘的画面了。

           

车轮上长大的Kiwi再上征程,表现也是超级良好。不哭不闹也不乱抓,上了车就乖乖睡觉,到了陌生的房间全部视察一遍后就随遇而安了。真是超级可爱的宝贝!

          

究竟城中景色如何,待小柯明日细细道来。

        

一行白鹭 

 

亭亭玉立


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25


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两万里逃难记(30)——重返新奥尔良(下)


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2005年10月11日

              

第二日一早,小柯和大伟先去姨妈家的房子拍照纪录损失情况,然后驱车围着我们的街区转了几圈,察看朋友家的状况。后院池塘里表弟鸥翔的金鱼全都死了,那两只神龙见首不见尾的乌龟也不知道活下来没有。附近大部分房子都完好,没有房门破损,只是墙上都留下国民自卫队用红漆标出的无人记号和日期。一路上枯黄的树枝树杈布满地面,有人回来的家门口一户一个废弃的冰箱。开车向东北往市中心的方向走,小柯一个朋友家不幸处在低洼地带,被水淹了有三、四英尺,东西全部毁掉。South Clariborne街中心停放的汽车身上的水印高达车顶。接近市区后Super Dome斑驳的圆顶远远出现在眼前,这个曾经银光闪闪在阳光下奕奕生辉的大体育馆,这个出现在建筑系教科书上被新奥尔良人视为城市骄傲之一的标志性建筑,这个在飓风中庇护了无数市民的避风港,此刻是如此脆弱、沧桑。

      

损伤较轻的uptown街区

 

朋友家附近损失严重的街区

 

洪水过后的房间

 

校园里的水线

 

损失惨重的South Claiborne街和Super Dome体育馆

         

 

最繁华的法国区(French Quarter)虽然经受重创,但损失不大,很多店铺甚至已恢复营业。波旁街(Bourbon Street)上的脱衣舞店估计是第一个恢复营业的,门口的大标语和美女热情的招徕顾客。很多酒吧门口堆了有一人多高的垃圾,悬挂在西班牙雕花栏杆外的茂密花草此刻也都变了颜色,枯黄干涸的叶片诉说着遭受的蹂躏和被遗弃的苦痛。再向法国区深处走,波旁街同性恋区的一家酒吧竟然旌旗招展,五颜六色的彩色气球欢迎着陆续回家的新奥尔良市民。门口震天响的Cajun音乐此刻也有了多重意义:新奥尔良的精神不死,Big Easy的传统终要延承下去,哪怕沧海桑田。

        

枯死的植物诉说着往日的繁华

 

曾经歌舞升平的Bourbon Street

 

Welcome Home

    

 车子在整个法国区绕了一圈,来到和Canal Street交界的Harrah’s赌场面前。救世军(Salvation Army)的志愿者在向过往的人发放免费食物。附近街边停了无数大个的清洁车,垃圾车,甚至清理废枝废家具的铲土车。再向北走到法国区北边的Marine,去看电视新闻里整个泡在水里的Frenchman Street街牌。小柯最喜欢的爵士乐酒吧,Spotted Cat,门口一片残破。所有的沙发家具都仍了出来,估计是淹没了一楼。

遍布整个城市的清洁车

 

斑点猫酒吧

           

转完了,车子沿St. Charles大街回家。那些美丽的豪宅损失都不大,路边的百年老橡树却有不少经不过飓风袭击,倒的倒,歪的歪。有些地段的大树已经被清理过了,死去的巨大枝干被移走 ,林荫大道的林荫就变得断断续续。到家前看到街区里跑着三只流浪狗,不知道这些小家伙们是如何生存下来的。姨妈家门口来了一只可爱的小猫,看上去也就七、八个月大,看到我们喵喵叫着躺倒和人撒娇,向我们要吃的。开了一瓶罐头给她,小柯想到我们走后不知道有谁会照顾她,心里很悲伤。

           

橡树

 

饥饿的流浪猫

 

最后一天,听邻居说水已经能用了,而且闻起来确实有很大的氯气味道,水源紧张的问题终于得到解决。不过红十字会已经在城市各个地段建立了援助中心,发放免费的水,罐头食品和一些清洁用具,即使没有干净水的地区人们也能够得到补给。

          

上午房东公司打电话来,说城市已经宣布可以重新居住,如果房子没有大损坏的话,就要开始收房租了。小柯和大伟昨天已经搬了一部分重要东西去姨妈的房子,就是预防房东催房租,没想到这么快担心就变成事实了。在这种情况下,我们决定干脆把所有的东西都搬走退房算了。不确定什么时候才能回新奥尔良常住,不知道究竟有多少人还决定回去,姨妈的房子更无法预测明年能否以合适的价格租出去,不如就此租姨妈的房子,双方都减少风险。我们总算幸运,还有姨妈的房子可以放置东西。很多朋友、同学却是把所有的家当都留在租用的房子里的,当房东都开始催房租以后,他们该怎么办?

           

一天的时间很快就在繁重的体力劳动中度过。两个人也许是超潜力发挥吧,竟然把所有的东西在一日之内搬完了!晚上直接睡在地板上的床垫,小柯望着天花板发呆:Katrina不知道改变了多少人的命运?我们的未来,不知道要走向哪一个方向?这个我曾经热爱的城市,究竟能不能从废墟中崛起?

            

黑暗中小柯又想起晚上去附近唯一一家营业的餐馆吃饭的情景。那是家卖典型美国汉堡三明治的餐厅,以前小柯和大伟曾经去它的生蚝吧吃过生蚝。生蚝吧旁边就是酒吧吧台,各种各样的德国啤酒是其特色。以前每到晚上有球赛的时候,这家店都要宾客盈门,烤汉堡热狗的厨房里几个厨师忙得上气不接下气,人们排队成龙。今晚的情形仿佛有大比赛进行,似乎上城所有的回来察看灾情的人都来这里吃饭了一样。唯一不同的是人们不再看环绕餐馆一圈的电视屏幕,而是相互问候,每个人都有一个和逃难相关的故事可以讲述。厨房的菜单被删减了很多,只有几种汉堡和三明治出售,价格也略微上调了几毛钱。柜台后面只有两个人在服务:一名年轻的厨师,脚步如飞,一边炸着薯条,在BBQ炉上明火烤着牛肉饼,一边往烤箱里放蘑菇片和奶酪,同时又在长条案板上一气摆下十几个微烤的汉堡圆面包,双手并用的向里面加入生菜、番茄和洋葱片;另一名留着大胡子的老头负责接单收钱,他面前放着一个巨大的透明塑料桶,上面贴着片纸,写着“我们磨破屁股在为大家服务,请一定给小费”。想到这,小柯不禁在静默中微笑起来,是的,这就是希望了,这就是新奥尔良复兴的依托了。时光变迁,总有人离开,有人初到,只要一个城市延承的精神不死,只要有这些在夹缝中继续生存繁荣的新奥尔良人,这个美丽的城市就不会消亡。也许依旧贫穷,也许依旧要挣扎,可那古老的爵士曲调一定会继续吟唱下去。

             

音乐不死,美味依旧。《飘》中郝斯嘉仿佛又在说:“明天,明天一切都会好起来的。” 对,这就是南方的精神吧,哪怕脚步沉重,这原始的动力永远会推动这个城市继续呼吸,继续生存,继续繁荣。


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 永远的新奥尔良, 两万里逃难记 | no comments


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25


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两万里逃难记(29)——重返新奥尔良(上)


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       2005年10月11日

                          

小柯和大伟受姨妈之托,决定飞回新奥尔良察看家中灾情。市长宣布可以重回市里之后,小柯迫不及待的买了924日的机票,哪知还没走成,飓风Rita又来袭,无可奈何只好取消机票。在与Delta航空公司两天的不懈斗争后,终于等来了好消息:所有新奥尔良的灾民都可以免费在1030日之前改票。

            

机票搞定,重新改到105日,剩下的就是租车了。虽然在网上定好了车,还特意打电话到租车公司去问,在拿到车的前一分钟我们都不确认能租到车子:大部分的商业店铺还都没有开放,没亲眼看到心里总是要打小鼓。

           

出发前的周末,全家人上街大肆采购“战备物资”,也就是需要带过去的水,食物和一些清洁和修葺住房的工具。虽然早在网上察看过洪水水位地图,可这图的误差还是很大的。何况,除了洪水,房子还有可能遭受飓风的正面袭击,房顶是不是被吹掉一块,玻璃是不是都破碎了,谁也不知道。小柯和大伟总共带回家两个箱子:一箱子食物和工具,另一个纸箱是满满的水和八宝粥。本来还买了无数碗装方便面,后来发现没电又没气,方便面是无论如何吃不成的。好在走前一天小柯和邻居通了电话,邻居说家里竟然来电了!小柯欣喜之余,又把那些方便面塞回去五、六包。

            

上了飞机,小柯和大伟二人四目相对,大有“风萧萧兮易水寒”的悲壮,此去前途未卜,不知道等待我们的是什么样惨痛的景象;可转念又一想,管他呢,总之一切都已发生,是福是获都无法躲过,还不如放宽心,等到达目的地再哭鼻子也不迟。

              

一路顺利,我们于傍晚4点半第一次在灾后回到了曾经灯红酒绿,曾经浮华生色,让人魂牵梦系的家园。

            

取了行李等到租车公司的大巴把不多的几个乘客带入机场旁的停车场,首先映入眼帘的竟然是两棵被飓风吹倒的大树!虽然有了心理准备,第一次看到这样的景象小柯心里还是难过了一阵。大巴上的乘客也纷纷相对无言,神情黯淡。现在来到新奥尔良的大多都是这里的居民,回来察看灾情和计算损失来的。推己及人,谁也笑不出来了。

          

 租车公司停车场里倒下的大树

         

租车公司的车竟然都是全新,刚出车厂。我们租的那辆中型Chevrolet里程表上只有25英里,里外崭新。一路上车辆稀少,除了机场附近有点车流外越向我们家住的上城(uptown)开人越少。机场路两边Katrina肆虐的痕迹随处可见:歪歪斜斜的路标,破了洞锈迹斑驳的户外广告牌,Popeye残破的店墙,缺了一角的二楼阳台……很多街口的红绿灯都还没恢复,只能暂时放置stop牌子疏导交通。

几乎没几辆车的高速公路

机场路上

残破的广告牌

受损房屋

少了半面墙的popeye

和城市其他地方相比,上城遭受的损失相对较小,房屋大体都还保留原样。只有Carrolton Ave上被大火烧毁房屋的黑色断桓让人心惊。火灾残迹的对面就是一座巨大的天主教教堂,门口树立着一座洁白的耶稣雕像,旁边围着几只白色石羊,当然也少不了一只黑色羊羔静默在羊群一旁。不知道伟大的神看着狂风呼啸火光冲天,而自己却无力保护拯救这些无助羔羊的时候,心中是何感受?

             

到了家,看到那熟悉的青灰砖墙,小柯心里的一块大石总算落了地。房子还在,台阶上也没有被水浸泡过的痕迹。房门锁着,所有的窗户也都完好。开门进屋,里面一如原样,逃难前特意放倒的大镜子也还乖乖的躺在地板上。开灯,所有的灯泡都亮;开空调定温度到76度,通风口里的冷气也照常吹出。“老天,我们也太幸运了吧!”我忍不住脱口而出,不敢相信眼前的一切。

已是“曾经”的家

放下行李,穿过客厅,左边粉红色墙上的旧时回忆都在,提醒小柯过往的幸福时光。右手边的厨房却发出腐败的气味,地板上的通风口竟然长出一根绿色的牵牛花藤蔓,几片翠绿的叶子骄傲的在冷风中微微摇曳。看完叶子抬头看冰箱,小柯惊得几乎要晕过去!整个冰箱被笼罩在小飞虫的淡黄色云团里,那些美丽可爱的冰箱贴上都沾满了虫卵,小柯和大伟的结婚照片也不能幸免于难。小柯手扶厨房门框,通风口的寒气从下向上逼来让人不由得打了个寒战。之后小柯扶下身去,一手支在膝盖上,胃里什么东西在翻涌,差点要呕吐出来。扭头不看冰箱,其他柜橱都完好。水池里还放着Kiwi的猫草,不同的是所有的绿叶早已变黄,没了生机。

Kiwi的猫草

        

小柯和大伟租的房子是改良过的short-gun,也就是那种一个房间套一个房间如同火车包厢般一长溜的房子。过去新奥尔良的房子沿袭旧制是按照房子的宽度来收税的,所以相当一部分人家都把房子建成这种又窄又长的形式来逃避税赋。传统的short-gun最后一间是厨房,再前面一间是卧室,从客厅去厨房还要穿过卧室,很是不方便。所以现在大多数short-gun都改良一下,把厨房挪到房子中间,卧室变到后面去。小柯的家卧室和卫生间外面是客厅到卧室的过道,不再是一个房间套着另一个房间,所以厨房虽然污染严重,去还没影响到卫生间和卧室。尽管如此,我们还是决定立刻在厨房外面订上蓝色的防雨塑料布把厨房和过道隔离开。

             

第一晚就这样很平静的过去了。除了没有水,要用带去的饮用水洗漱外,倒也没有多大的不方便。只是没有了Kiwi在身边捣乱,有些安静。逃难前大伟刚给Kiwi做好的猫树静悄悄的站在房间角落,不知道自己的主人什么时候才回来。


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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 永远的新奥尔良, 两万里逃难记 | no comments


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两万里逃难记(28)


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2005年9月20日

                     

919日,小柯一家再次来到伯克利校园正式注册。在领略百年校园的美景之后还见到了华人音乐坊上的老剑客木瓜美女。宾主相见把酒言欢,老剑客为人豪爽,还带我们一家人好好领略了东湾的海景,远观了壮丽的旧金山金门大桥,在此之后还特意把我们送到了奥克兰红十字会救助中心。

 

 红十字会在湾区附近只有两家,一间在奥克兰,一间在旧金山。奥克兰的这家坐落在城中的百老汇街上,一进门向左一个大房间全部被用来接待飓风Katrina的难民。屋子里的人还真不少,没想到也有这么多灾民跟小柯家一样跑到加州湾区来了。 

         

接待我们的是一位黑人大妈,态度非常和蔼。在详细询问了我们的状况之后决定按照红十字会的政策,以家庭为单位发给我们$665补助。一般说来单身家庭可以领到$360,之后每增加一个人增加$300。领补助不需要是美国公民,只要有受灾地区的证件,或者其他文件证明来自受灾地区就可以领取。 

            

办完手续,在出门的路上遇到一位也来自新奥尔良地区的黑人大妈。她的命运和经历真是比小柯一家要悲惨很多。她患有风湿、哮喘,左脚走路也不大灵光,所以Katrina登陆的时候就没有撤离。结果后来家里被大水漫过,她和其他邻居朋友逃了出来,从高速公路上向城外走。这一走就是三天三夜,没有食物,没有水,没有消息,没有救援。后来是同行的一家家长,走了很远跳到高速公路下找到一家便利店,打破店门进去拿了面包,饼干和水出来他们才算撑了过来。三天后她终于被直升飞机从桥上救走,被送去休斯顿,然后展转来到加州投奔亲戚。她的奶奶飓风前住在城东的养老院,就是那个著名的St. Rita’s Nursing Home,里面的34名老人全部被淹死;她的弟弟没能逃出来,也活活被淹死。大妈说的声泪俱下,小柯听得心都要裂掉…… 飓风是过去了,可人们心灵所遭受的这些创伤何时才能被扶平? 

            

 920日一早,小柯还在梦中,加州的车行就打来电话,原来我们的小灰驴已经被“修好”了。据技师说是自动变速器里面的轴坏了,费用是$224,只要盐湖城那边一付钱我们就可以把车拿走。可是盐湖城那里拒绝在电话里用信用卡付钱,只肯寄支票。这位技师说以他从业25年的经验来看盐湖城是根本就不打算付钱的。当然,也有可能一两个礼拜后支票寄到,但是小灰驴每在他的车行多放一天,他就要收取每天25美元的停车费。小柯急得立刻就清醒了,赶紧给盐湖城打电话催那边付钱。那边说加州的车行收费太高,超出ATRA协会的小时工资范畴,想先向协会抱怨再付,后来又说不如我们先自己付钱把车先领回来,然后他再付钱给我。 

             

结果电话打来打去,两面就是扯皮,盐湖城不肯付钱,加州这边寸步不让,甚至说如果我自己去付钱,那就不能按ATRA协会价格收费,而要按加州价格。小柯没办法,也被这两只眼里只有钱的猪气坏了,一个电话告到ATRA协会。协会里专门负责仲裁的Lorry女士一听说我们是新奥尔良来的难民,两方却在扯皮不干实事,立刻分别打电话到两家车行。这个ATRA协会还真是很有办法,以摘牌威胁,两个家伙立刻都老实了,而加州的车行也把实情告诉了小柯。 

                   

原来其实严格的说,这个轴不能算自动变速器的部件,要想真正搞清楚究竟是什么坏了轴才掉出来,是需要把变速器拆下来,打开一点点检查清洁的。这样一来就要花上两天的人工,盐湖城那边当然不愿意了,于是就以“帮忙”为名,说虽然轴不能算变速器上的部分,但他们也决定修了。最好修完后加州这边能给一个30天保修证明,这样就算将来发现其实变速器里面也坏了,他就可以说是加州这边的问题,由加州保修。 

            

加州的这个从业25年的老油条当然不会这么傻的上当,自然不肯给保修,结果两边就开始扯皮,把小柯夹在中间两面受气。他们没算到的一点是这个中国来的貌似柔弱的小女生竟然会打电话到ATRA协会去告他们两家。ATRA介入的结果是,盐湖城那边不仅要付修轴的这两百多块钱,还要按照正规程序,付钱给加州这边,把变速器拆下来打开仔细检查。折腾了一天,白跑了一趟加州的车行去领车,不过最后总算把这件事情搞定了,也算一天里的超级收获。 

           

下午不知道几点,阳光灿烂的加州湾区开始下雨。天边大片大片的黑灰色乌云滚滚翻涌,藏在乌云后面的太阳偶尔从缝隙里展露一点光芒,给黑云镶起金边。没有车的我们走路回家,高速公路上的车流飞驰而过,更吹动秋风的萧瑟。望着天边隐隐的淡黄远山,小柯默默的想,不知道我们何时才能追得上加州这飞一般的速度,何时才能找到新家?


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

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Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记 | no comments