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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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两万里逃难记(38)—— 咖啡海 · 遗恨


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2005年12月20日 

           

距离休斯顿45迈的海滨小城Galveston是德州一个非常受欢迎的度假胜地,当然,那是在夏天。隆冬时节,海边冷风飕飕,寒气刺骨。小柯与大伟带着Kiwi就在这样一个夜黑风高之夜踏浪来到位于Galveston西海岸沙滩上的Escapes度假村。

            

我们来得匆忙,忘了应该提前打电话预约的。毕竟,这种度假村不是一般酒店,前台只从早8点开放到晚8点,之后客人的房间钥匙就被放入门口的密码箱,自己输入密码取出钥匙进屋。我们两个哪里知道,进了度假村大门转了一圈没愣是没找到前台。原来这海滩上的房子为了防止飓风,一楼都是停车场,被称作地面层;房间从二楼开始,不过楼层按一层算起。打了半天电话好不容易拿到钥匙,问值班的黑人大叔这个时节客人多不多。大叔回答:“别说,现在还真有不少人来。”

           

“那他们都来做什么呢?”我紧追不舍。

         

“我也不知道。现在这么冷,不知道大家都来做什么。”大叔耸耸肩,满脸莫名其妙的表情回答到。

          

我想,我们两个一定也被这位大叔归结到这群不知好歹大冬天跑到冰冷冻人海边来的怪人啦!

           

“管它呢”,我暗自思忖,“反正都已经来了,先过了今晚再说。”

       

度假村里如我想像一般豪华。客厅外面就是无敌海景,伴着阵阵海浪确是十分浪漫的所在。

            

第二日,日上三杆,我们出门去领略Galveston的风光。这个小岛长有30迈,宽却不过3迈,沿海的一条Seawall大道东西贯穿全岛,路上有一个旗舰酒店,生生建在海上的几十根水泥柱子上,长方形的大楼两面都是海,半夜枕着涛声入眠一定不错。酒店旁边是几个纪念品店,满口摆着有脸盆一般大的贝壳。抬头望天,一片湛蓝,偶尔飘过白云朵朵。如果不是寒风萧瑟,景色着实不错。

            

如此美景,可惜大海的颜色竟然是咖啡。闲来信步海滩,发现这沙滩的颜色也是咖啡褐色,上面布满了落潮后大海遗落的贝壳。这从德州直到佛罗里达州的墨西哥湾海岸绵延有近两千迈,从西向东海水颜色变化很大。德州这里是咖啡海,进入路易斯安那州与阿拉巴马州,海水颜色逐渐变绿,越向佛罗里达州方向走海水越蓝。到达南端的迈阿迷与Key West (基韦斯特) 后海水就更加透明,蓝得更加澄澈。再出离美国向加勒比海方向推进,那更是蓝得人心旷神怡,连眼睛都要醉掉酥透,但愿忘掉人世一切烦恼,只要迷失在那桃花源里。

           

我觉得,这大海颜色的变化与海滩沙质与海水深浅有极大的关系。水浅的地方海水颜色就受沙滩颜色影响较大:咖啡沙滩映出咖啡海,金黄沙滩和着蓝天就变出绿色海水,而佛罗里达州和加勒比海的白沙滩就给出最纯粹的蓝色汪洋。离开海岸向海洋腹地走,海水变深,海底的颜色就不再重要了,所以哪里都是蓝色天地。

              

Galveston这片海滩极浅,夏天绝对是个戏水的好地方。只可惜这里是片咖啡沙滩,大海也化作咖啡心情,带着无尽的忧郁与惆怅。站在岸边,低头数着脚边的贝壳,抬头望着一波一波的白色浪花,让人不由得想到9月份的那场飓风。而此时此刻,我站在孕育了这世纪灾难的墨西哥湾面前,前尘往事一齐涌上心头。这场风暴,令我在3个月前远离这片海湾,也让我在3个月后鬼使神差再次来到它的怀抱,来看这咖啡色的大海。人生,是不是就象这杯里泛着白沫的拿铁咖啡,苦乐交织,永远不知道明天命运会带自己去什么地方?

             

休息了两天,20号决定开车一个钟头去休斯顿城里看久违了的Menil Collection。这个博物馆可以说是休斯顿最为著名的博物馆之一,即使在全国范围也是十分突出的私家收藏。去年74日,我与大伟特意造访,可惜赶上了博物馆都不开门的星期一外加国庆假日,悻悻然空跑一趟。这次是礼拜二,无论如何也不能再错过了。

             

下了59号高速公路七拐八绕几次险些迷路,总算捱到博物馆门口发现竟然周一、二都休息。老天,我险些没气晕过去,就差在门口放声大哭啦!咬牙跺脚绕着博物馆大楼开了两圈,只好再按原路返回。这个Menil Collection,难道必须要艾小柯三顾茅庐不成?!

            

为了平复我受伤的心灵,大伟决定请我去外面吃饭。两个人大中午的跑到Denny’s Diner吃早点,我特意点了个最大个儿的煎蛋卷,决定就由肚子为眼睛解气了。即使如此,也还是胸中意难平。于是决定明日整装上路时再来,不看完誓不罢休。

             

旗舰酒店

 

海边小店

 

咖啡海


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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 两万里逃难记, 短篇游记 | no comments

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