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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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圣安东尼奥逃难旅记


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圣安东尼奥逃难旅记

 

艾小柯

 

        2003年9 月14日,在南加勒比海形成的4级飓风Ivan (伊万)兵临美国墨西哥海湾,所有住在南部海湾的居民都如临大敌,尤其是New Orleans(新奥尔良)这个具有悠久历史的美国著名港口坐落于一片沼泽地中,整个城市位于海平面以下10英尺。如果飓风直接登陆扫荡,新奥尔良将变成一座水城,就好象电影“未来水世界”一般。从13日到14日早晨伊万形势越来越不妙,大部分学校已经停课,市长也紧急建议大家能走就走。13日晚全城出动购买应急物资,听说在Wal-mart(沃玛特超市)水和食物都基本上卖空了,最长的队要排一个半钟头,整个城市如大难临头一般,所有商店的玻璃都用木板钉了起来。

      我们本来是打算把窗户贴好,东西搬到高地再囤积点水粮严防死守的,后来形势日益严峻,朋友们也拼命的打电话商量走不走,走到哪里去。我们这才上网去紧急定酒店,那时候连休斯顿等在新奥尔良附近6小时路程内的范围都已经什么都定不到了。开始打算去圣路易斯朋友的家里躲两天,但后来要带上一个朋友,还是觉得诸多不便,就又试了试San Antonio(圣安东尼奥),正好我和大卫也早有到那里旅游的打算。没想到竟然让我们在www.hotwire.com上定到了当天在River Walk(圣安东尼奥市内的旅游景点,是一条沿河路)边上的三星级酒店,还特别便宜(一天才$55,税后)。所以最后临时决定向圣安东尼奥出发了。

      前10个钟头都是以每小时5到10英里的速度前进的。听说I-10(高速公路)上动都动不了,我们特意选了另一条人比较少的绕远的90号公路,可是都一样。路上被迫停下来无数次,看前后两面都是望不到边的车流,两旁都是沼泽,进退不得啊!尽管大家都很焦急的盼望能动起来,公路上仍然是秩序井然。我们后面的越南大婶偷空下车溜狗,右边的老哥干脆把左脚伸出窗外超级悠闲驾驶。我们也下了车无聊的在桥上找沼泽地里有没有藏着美国鳄鱼。在Lafayette(拉菲特),位于路易斯安那州西部)之前的加油站大多都没有87号油了,等着加高标号油的车挤满了小小的加油站。附近的小餐厅比如subway (赛百威) 什么的都关门了,好不容易找到一个厕所也要排队20分钟,闹得我在车上都不大敢喝水了!就这样蜗牛一般爬了10个钟头之后,终于于半夜12点开出了100英里之外的拉菲特,车速总算可以提高到50英里左右。4个小时之后到达休斯顿,车终于少了。我们快马加鞭在凌晨7点赶到了圣安东尼奥的旅馆。在前台签到的时候还不停听到有人给酒店打电话要求保留预定的房间,一问都是从路易斯安那逃难出来的,还在路上呢!

       一夜(其实是上午)无话。三个人大睡到下午三点起床,大卫不耐烦的等我们两个女生打扮停当之后,一行三人就开始了圣安东尼奥之旅。圣安东尼奥是德克萨斯州第二大城市,最著名的经典就是River Walk和Alamo (一座著名的教堂名称) 。小河哪里都有,没有什么特别的;不同的是经过两百多年的建造,圣安东尼奥河变成了一条风景秀丽的“地下河”。整个市中心街道“悬浮”于河岸之上,街角有或盘旋或风格现代的楼梯通入河边。一下楼梯简直豁然开朗!河水曲折蜿蜒,每隔几十米就会有如苏州园林般的石拱桥横跨而过。河中无数的鱼儿游来游去,成群结队的野鸭和鸳鸯向游人讨食。河两边五步一楼,十步一景,各种树木花草参差掩映,没有建筑的地方要么是各种风格的小喷泉,要么是色彩浓郁的马赛克图画。难怪美国人要称圣安东尼奥 是美国威尼斯了。河两旁的各种建筑除了酒店,最多的就是各种风格口味的餐厅了。每家餐厅都装饰得别具特色,墨西哥风格的会有穿着绿白红三色大圆裙的女侍在门口招徕顾客,意大利餐厅就用紧邻河岸的彩色拼花圆桌和美丽的餐具来吸引游人,一家叫“湘苑”的中国餐厅更是在门口挂起了无数展大红灯笼,窗内依稀的烛光让人想起了五百年前的梦幻秦淮。不过圣安东尼奥的秦淮河演奏的却是标准的墨西哥音乐。各家餐厅都有盛装打扮的墨西哥乐队巡回表演,有清一色的男子乐队,也有清一色的女子乐队,一般是5到6个人,大提琴,小提琴,萨克斯,吉他,单簧什么都有,而且个个都能唱。他们会走到在河边用餐的游客旁问需不需要音乐助兴,价格并不贵,什么曲子都会,即使不要,他们也都笑盈盈的离开。个人认为这么周到的服务最适合情侣周年纪念或者求婚啦!

 

River Walk

 

河边的Ben&Jerry冰激凌店

 

         我和同行的女生都是酷爱美食之人,自然哪家都不舍得放过,仔细研究放在门口的菜单;可惜是越看越迷惑,因为哪家的食谱都写得那么诱人,真是不知道该到哪大快哚颐。我们总共在River Walk吃了三次饭:15号晚上最终决定还是吃墨西哥餐。本来的克萨斯州以前就是墨西哥的领土,经过了Alamo战役独立出来后也还是保留了墨西哥的风格,建筑,美食,服饰。我们在Original Mexican (原味墨西哥餐厅) 点了最具特色的Nachos, Fajita和Enchilada。Nachos是类似炸薯片的一种开胃前盘,不同的是薯片上要浇上融化的奶酪和烤的烂熟的红豆,有的还要加上剁碎的烤鸡肉或牛肉,越吃越香。Fajita很有些中国铁板牛柳的味道,也是一个黑色的铁盘,吱吱冒着热气的端上来,里面有烤的外焦里嫩的牛肉或鸡肉,配上蔬菜沙拉,墨西哥炒饭,招牌烤红豆和酸奶油。吃的时候先拿一张类似于中国的荷叶饼的小圆面饼,把所有的东西都放进去卷起来,大咬一口,M, M, yummy (好吃)~~~. Enchilada是在美国非常流行的正规墨西哥菜,尤其是对于奶酪爱好者来说。一般的中国人可能会不太习惯奶酪的浓烈味道,我也是在美国生活了两三年后才开始爱上这种超级催肥厚重美味的。Enchilada的配菜和Fajita差不多,不同的是除了沙拉,各种东西都已经卷好放在小面饼里,之后小面饼上被浇上厚厚的融化了的奶酪,浓香四溢,美味异常。我们三个人是吃了个沟满壕平还剩了不少。没办法,这的盘子都超大!酒点了Margarita (马格利特,一种鸡尾酒)。这里Margarita都是超大杯,最大的有60盎司,大概有一斤半牛奶那么多,估计全喝完了肯定能一头载倒到河里变洛神!我不要做洛神,我的小鱼Gene还在新奥尔良朋友家里等着我回去呢,所以我只点了个16盎司的桃子味道margarita小酌一番。大卫要了当地的啤酒:Lone Star (孤星),看来德克萨斯人时刻不忘自己的孤星共和国啊!

露天墨西哥餐厅

 

鸡肉Fajita

 

孤星共和国

 

 

德克萨斯州旗

 

      吃饱喝足我们沿河前行,坐上了水上游船。时间刚好是下午6点左右,马上就要日落,温柔的阳光透过河岸边层层的树荫照上船来,两岸歌舞升平,那滋味真是神仙也难求!

        16号本来打算起个大早好好利用时间来弥补昨天多耗在路上的工夫,可惜闹钟没响,只好起来以后直接去吃中饭了。River Walk虽然在地图上看着挺长,可在河上的街道走起来却没多远:街道都是四平八达的不象自然形成的河道那么蜿蜒曲折。我们先走路去Alamo参观了一翻。这场200年前的著名战役在美国人心中就跟甲午海战一样壮烈神圣,歌曲诗词电影都在不停的传诵。Alamo原来是一座教堂,在德克萨斯州对抗墨西哥独裁者Santa Anna的战争中,32位勇士和近200名无名英雄退守于此和Santa Anna的大军对抗了13天,直到1836年3月6日寡不敌众,Alamo被攻陷,32位英雄全部阵亡。这场战役代表了德克萨斯人民顽强不屈争取自由的决心,更是美国英雄主义的实证。不过实话实说,对于我们三位传承5000年文明史,膜拜过无数古老战争的中国人来说,200年前的Alamo实在无法引起强烈的共鸣。尊敬是肯定的,而且十分感叹任何人都不用买门票来参观这么著名的文化遗址和博物馆,但我们只在Alamo逗留了40分钟左右就心不在焉的要深入River Walk去吃午饭了。

        Alamo就在River Walk边Hyatt (凯悦)酒店的对面。穿过Hyatt豪华的喷泉和一直通到酒店大堂的小桥流水,我们又回到了香气四溢的River Walk。这回不用挑来挑去了,我们直接来到了我上次来圣安东尼奥时超级称赞的County Line BBQ(乡村线烧烤)餐 馆。吃烤肉不用顾及形象,我们女生也都奋臂出袖,三个人风卷残云吃光了开胃蘑菇,烤猪排,牛排,沙拉,薯条和蒜容土豆泥。我们一致认为这顿真是吃的爽!吃饱了,River Walk也逛的差不多了,著名的5星级La Mansion酒店前Jennifer Lopez(珍尼佛.洛佩兹,美国著名影星)拍电影坐过的石拱桥上也留下了我们的倩影,下一步当然是去购物了!

La Mansion酒店

 

         虽说River Walk附近有一家超级大mall(购物中心),什么名牌应有尽有,但是更对我们这些穷学生胃口的却是在美国历史最悠久的墨西哥市场:Market Square (市场广场)。地方虽然不大,布局有点象批发市场,但是里面确实好店连连—-如果你也象我一样喜欢特色手工艺品。墨西哥风格的彩色大圆帽,木制雕塑,皮具马鞍马鞭马靴牛仔帽,不同型号的水牛角,各种银饰珠宝,墨西哥服装,色彩鲜艳的羊毛披肩挂毯,彩漆陶罐瓷器,缀满了各色珠子的女式背包,儿童玩具……看的我目不暇接,淹没在色彩的汪洋里。同学买了一对打磨精细的银耳环,大卫淘到了一顶黑色的超帅牛仔帽;我看上了一件极美的彩色条纹披肩,可惜太贵了。Market Square里除了购物,还有一家历史悠久的点心店加餐厅。买点心的人慕名而来要拿号排队。点心部的天花板挂满了红红绿绿的墨西哥剪纸和纸糊的彩色星星,餐厅墙上装饰着店主家的无数老照片。所有的女侍应都穿着红白绿相间的墨西哥泡泡袖上衣和大圆摆长裙,男的都是黑色镶金边的短款圆摆小夹克,白色高领衬衫和同样的黑色镶金紧腿裤,再加上黑色皮靴,真是帅呆了!

墨西哥点心店

 

        说到Market Square就不能不提提另一个类似的购物胜地:La Villita。西班牙语的意思是小村庄。紧邻圣安东尼奥河 ,这里是18世纪初的圣安东尼奥原址,现在被重新修复,有超过25位以上的艺术家和手工艺匠人在这里展示出售他们的作品。在这里你可以找到纯手工的墨西哥风格服装,披肩,各式矿石化石展览和制品,各种墨西哥手工艺品,玻璃艺术品,我们甚至花了10分钱的门票参观一个吹玻璃的老艺人制作玻璃旋转木马。在这里我终于找到了心爱的纪念品:一串紫色的石头切片风铃,回家后我可以把它挂在我美丽的前廊听新奥尔良秋风的叮咚。La Villita直通River Walk的出口正对着一个小型水上露天剧院,这就是Sandra Bullock(珊德拉.布鲁克)在电影“Miss Congeniality (选美小姐)”里面才艺表演的舞台啦!舞台左边是红顶白墙的墨西哥风格建筑,用作演员休息化妆室;再左边是又一道拱桥,连接到河对岸的观众席。演出的时候演员观众都是露天的,观众席也没有椅子,只有一层层象梯田一样的宽大石阶,石阶边缘是毛茸茸的草坪。观众就坐在这软软的草坪石阶上沐浴着和风享受表演。唉!这样惬意的日子真是神仙都不换啊!

水上露天剧院

 

      晚饭三个人都有吃不动的感觉:这两顿实在是吃得太好太多了!最后决定去吃稍微清淡的意大利菜。随便在River Walk找了一家餐厅,叫Italia,店面在二楼,从小阳台上俯视灯红酒绿的River Walk ,听着墨西哥乐队的悠扬歌声,真是舒服浪漫极了。菜点了最普通的Artichoke dip, Beef Lasagna和Eggplant Parmesan。Artichoke是形状类似佛手的一种蔬菜,在西式菜点中一般被煮熟后捣碎,搀入其它调味料成为沾酱,用面包或饼沾着吃。Lasagna是意大利面的一种。通常做法是烤制,将波浪状的大片意大利面一层层的铺到烤盘里,中间以蔬菜,肉或火腿和西红柿酱,奶酪粘结,是非常经典的意大利面做法。我们要的就是面中间放牛肉的这种。Eggplant Parmesan 是把茄子切圆片,用面包碎屑裹制后先炸,然后用番茄酱和奶酪连接两到三片,统一在烤箱里烤制。这家的蘸橄榄油面包和Artichoke dip尤其美味,其他的菜色味道一般,甜点做的不好。不过也难怪,跑到吃墨西哥菜的地方来吃意大利菜,难免会失望。不过给我们倒水的小服务生倒是个拉丁小帅哥,我们两个女生拉着他合照了一张照片,弄的腼腆的他脸红了半天。

      晚上回到酒店确定伊万飓风并没有直接袭击新奥尔良,而是根据预测转向了阿拉巴马州,我们都舒了口气。给朋友打了个电话得知新奥尔良除了刮了点风,连一滴雨都没下,而且阳光灿烂的天气好的不得了!他一早上起来看到出太阳了吓了一大跳,还以为身处风眼里了!所以这次是上帝保佑,化险为夷!不过阿拉巴马州就比较的不走运了,损失比较惨重。好在没有城市象新奥尔良一样是个“海下”城,所以即使淹水也不会那么严重。

     17号礼拜五回来的路上比较顺利,没有堵车,不过比国庆节我们从休斯敦回来的车流还是多了至少一倍。在休斯敦的中国城老四川吃了川菜,可惜不如上次来做的地道。大卫在附近的一个中国超市里扫荡了所有的馒头,这下我们9月就有好吃的了!这是我们在美国第一次逃难,还比较成功,选对了方向,同时游览了圣安东尼奥这个美丽的小城。其实圣安东尼奥还有很多地方我们没有时间去,比如King Williams community (威廉姆斯国王小区), 马桶博物馆,美国最大的海洋馆等。希望下次我们的美国威尼斯之旅不再是逃难!


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
December 13th, 2006
Posted by admin | 短篇游记 | no comments

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