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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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死灵之城


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2007年2月28日

        

新奥尔良的墓葬与美国其它地方全然不同,个个都是地上“悬棺”。这倒不是因为新奥尔良的人多么念旧,无法忘怀死者所以给他们建筑了“死灵之城”,而是新奥尔良这片地方,地表下面就是大沼泽,多挖几尺坟墓就进水了,总不能把先人的躯体泡在水里吧。这点上,新奥尔良的传统又和加勒比众多岛国风俗类似了。

 

著名的圣路易斯第一号公墓距离二号公墓只有三个街区,生了锈的黑栏杆铁门把里面一排排静默的灵魂与外面熙攘的公路隔开。很多墓地都有相当的年头了,这些墓葬基本都是长方形结构,普通的大概两人高,顶上或平或成三角状,本来是白色的外墙皮早已变成斑驳的灰色。墓的正面多是一人半高的石板门,有的干脆用红砖砌住,外面再抹上白灰。不过年久失修的墓地们白灰都掉得差不多了,露出里面已经发黑了的老砖。有钱人家的墓地宏伟得多,长长的跟一个小“猎枪筒房”类似,边角方方正正,平顶上面矗立着巨大洁白的天使雕像,或者是圣母玛利亚,气派非凡。与新奥尔良贫富夹杂的城市景观一样,在灵魂的城市里,穷的富的也互为睦邻,各不相扰。

 

也有一些墓在修葺,所以能够看到墓室里面的结构。一般的墓室分上下二或三层,最上面的用来放置棺椁。新奥尔良建城两百年,可公共排水系统直到二十世纪初才建成,哪怕到今天,法国区的排水排污系统仍然是一百年前的老结构,一下雨,由于地下水会从密西西比河与北部的庞恰特雷恩湖(Lake Pontchartrain)会向盆地地势位于海平面下七到二十英尺不等的老城回灌,仅有的排水系统也开始“反刍”,污水在石板街面肆意横流,加上红灯区一年四季不断的醉汉们的慷慨奉献,波旁大街永远充满了腐败所特有的味道。这样的公共健康环境,怎么不是疾病与瘟疫的温床!新奥尔良历史上曾发生过数次大规模的瘟疫,大批生命死亡,普通墓葬的两个棺椁位置不够,还要暂借公墓一角特意修葺的“棺材公寓”。这些“公寓”比起独门独户的墓地就要简陋的多,四平八稳方方正正如同烤箱一样的结构,没有任何装饰、生铁栏杆或者雕像,只有墙面是一样的斑驳脱落。每个棺椁一个方方正正的小口,棺木从这里放进去,等到家族墓地有了空房,或者直到俭骨日再回归祖先的怀抱。

 

俭骨一般都发生在安葬一年之后,棺材打开,逝者的遗骸被从中请出,扫入到墓地的最下层,与家族先人们的骸骨合并一处,生生世世,永不分离。

 

圣路易斯第一与二号墓地中所葬名人无数,其中巫毒皇后玛利亚母女俩,是新奥尔良历史上最具有神秘色彩的人物。

 

这大玛利亚的身世一直是个谜。据说她是1794年出生在法国区的,具有白人、黑人和印第安三重血统,集各家巫术之长为一身,修炼成美国历史上最著名的巫毒皇后。这位皇后不仅巫术厉害,最厉害的是通晓当时各种前卫发型,常常给显赫贵妇们当形象指导;同时她还开有妓院,研制春药,组织淫荡的群交游戏,服务于上层社会的达官贵人。利用这许多明暗关系网,马利亚皇后掌握了政界商界要人的多方机密,并以此作为自己发达的政治资本,获得了无以伦比的财富声誉与名望。这位一代巫皇死亡之后,据无数传奇报道,人们仍然常常看见她的身姿出现在法国区街头。一种说法是玛利亚皇后的女儿之一继承了衣钵,干脆连名字都借了,继续母亲大人辉煌的巫毒事业;另一种说法那就跟灵异力量相关了,不过可以确信的一点是,二百年后的今天,玛利亚皇后创立的巫毒事业在新奥尔良是日益发展壮大,并成为城市象征之一。法国区随便哪个游人如织的街角,都能在纪念品店里找到代表各种象征的巫毒小人,至于这些小人是被买回去跟招财猫摇钱树一样摆在家里祈求多金多福呢,还是被用来插入万颗银针诅咒敌人我就不得而知了。

 

既然无毒皇后究竟是死亡了还是另有蹊跷,那么她究竟魂归何处也成了史学家的一个研究课题。大玛利亚好说,葬于圣路易斯第一号墓地,每年有无数游客慕名前来,或膜拜,或猎奇;可小玛利亚,也就是巫毒皇后灵魂最后附体的继承者究竟葬在哪里,是一场永远没有结论的争执。各个新教旧教都宣称拥有小玛利亚的遗骨,目前能确信的只是她葬在圣路易斯二号公墓,墓碑无字。许多慕名前来寻找小玛利亚芳魂的访客,如果认为自己猜中了,就在某个无名墓地的破落粉墙上用红笔画个叉,再围绕墓碑转三圈,跳三跳,祈求巫毒皇后灵魂附体,赐予无限力量。

 

新奥尔良老城,与这些死灵之城共同经历着那些火灾、战乱、瘟疫、飓风、洪水的洗礼,在时光的脚步中依然用古老的爵士乐浅吟低唱着,叹息着,谱写着新的传奇。


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February 23rd, 2008
Posted by aixiaoke | 永远的新奥尔良, 短篇游记 | no comments


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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25


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两万里逃难记(30)——重返新奥尔良(下)


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2005年10月11日

              

第二日一早,小柯和大伟先去姨妈家的房子拍照纪录损失情况,然后驱车围着我们的街区转了几圈,察看朋友家的状况。后院池塘里表弟鸥翔的金鱼全都死了,那两只神龙见首不见尾的乌龟也不知道活下来没有。附近大部分房子都完好,没有房门破损,只是墙上都留下国民自卫队用红漆标出的无人记号和日期。一路上枯黄的树枝树杈布满地面,有人回来的家门口一户一个废弃的冰箱。开车向东北往市中心的方向走,小柯一个朋友家不幸处在低洼地带,被水淹了有三、四英尺,东西全部毁掉。South Clariborne街中心停放的汽车身上的水印高达车顶。接近市区后Super Dome斑驳的圆顶远远出现在眼前,这个曾经银光闪闪在阳光下奕奕生辉的大体育馆,这个出现在建筑系教科书上被新奥尔良人视为城市骄傲之一的标志性建筑,这个在飓风中庇护了无数市民的避风港,此刻是如此脆弱、沧桑。

      

损伤较轻的uptown街区

 

朋友家附近损失严重的街区

 

洪水过后的房间

 

校园里的水线

 

损失惨重的South Claiborne街和Super Dome体育馆

         

 

最繁华的法国区(French Quarter)虽然经受重创,但损失不大,很多店铺甚至已恢复营业。波旁街(Bourbon Street)上的脱衣舞店估计是第一个恢复营业的,门口的大标语和美女热情的招徕顾客。很多酒吧门口堆了有一人多高的垃圾,悬挂在西班牙雕花栏杆外的茂密花草此刻也都变了颜色,枯黄干涸的叶片诉说着遭受的蹂躏和被遗弃的苦痛。再向法国区深处走,波旁街同性恋区的一家酒吧竟然旌旗招展,五颜六色的彩色气球欢迎着陆续回家的新奥尔良市民。门口震天响的Cajun音乐此刻也有了多重意义:新奥尔良的精神不死,Big Easy的传统终要延承下去,哪怕沧海桑田。

        

枯死的植物诉说着往日的繁华

 

曾经歌舞升平的Bourbon Street

 

Welcome Home

    

 车子在整个法国区绕了一圈,来到和Canal Street交界的Harrah’s赌场面前。救世军(Salvation Army)的志愿者在向过往的人发放免费食物。附近街边停了无数大个的清洁车,垃圾车,甚至清理废枝废家具的铲土车。再向北走到法国区北边的Marine,去看电视新闻里整个泡在水里的Frenchman Street街牌。小柯最喜欢的爵士乐酒吧,Spotted Cat,门口一片残破。所有的沙发家具都仍了出来,估计是淹没了一楼。

遍布整个城市的清洁车

 

斑点猫酒吧

           

转完了,车子沿St. Charles大街回家。那些美丽的豪宅损失都不大,路边的百年老橡树却有不少经不过飓风袭击,倒的倒,歪的歪。有些地段的大树已经被清理过了,死去的巨大枝干被移走 ,林荫大道的林荫就变得断断续续。到家前看到街区里跑着三只流浪狗,不知道这些小家伙们是如何生存下来的。姨妈家门口来了一只可爱的小猫,看上去也就七、八个月大,看到我们喵喵叫着躺倒和人撒娇,向我们要吃的。开了一瓶罐头给她,小柯想到我们走后不知道有谁会照顾她,心里很悲伤。

           

橡树

 

饥饿的流浪猫

 

最后一天,听邻居说水已经能用了,而且闻起来确实有很大的氯气味道,水源紧张的问题终于得到解决。不过红十字会已经在城市各个地段建立了援助中心,发放免费的水,罐头食品和一些清洁用具,即使没有干净水的地区人们也能够得到补给。

          

上午房东公司打电话来,说城市已经宣布可以重新居住,如果房子没有大损坏的话,就要开始收房租了。小柯和大伟昨天已经搬了一部分重要东西去姨妈的房子,就是预防房东催房租,没想到这么快担心就变成事实了。在这种情况下,我们决定干脆把所有的东西都搬走退房算了。不确定什么时候才能回新奥尔良常住,不知道究竟有多少人还决定回去,姨妈的房子更无法预测明年能否以合适的价格租出去,不如就此租姨妈的房子,双方都减少风险。我们总算幸运,还有姨妈的房子可以放置东西。很多朋友、同学却是把所有的家当都留在租用的房子里的,当房东都开始催房租以后,他们该怎么办?

           

一天的时间很快就在繁重的体力劳动中度过。两个人也许是超潜力发挥吧,竟然把所有的东西在一日之内搬完了!晚上直接睡在地板上的床垫,小柯望着天花板发呆:Katrina不知道改变了多少人的命运?我们的未来,不知道要走向哪一个方向?这个我曾经热爱的城市,究竟能不能从废墟中崛起?

            

黑暗中小柯又想起晚上去附近唯一一家营业的餐馆吃饭的情景。那是家卖典型美国汉堡三明治的餐厅,以前小柯和大伟曾经去它的生蚝吧吃过生蚝。生蚝吧旁边就是酒吧吧台,各种各样的德国啤酒是其特色。以前每到晚上有球赛的时候,这家店都要宾客盈门,烤汉堡热狗的厨房里几个厨师忙得上气不接下气,人们排队成龙。今晚的情形仿佛有大比赛进行,似乎上城所有的回来察看灾情的人都来这里吃饭了一样。唯一不同的是人们不再看环绕餐馆一圈的电视屏幕,而是相互问候,每个人都有一个和逃难相关的故事可以讲述。厨房的菜单被删减了很多,只有几种汉堡和三明治出售,价格也略微上调了几毛钱。柜台后面只有两个人在服务:一名年轻的厨师,脚步如飞,一边炸着薯条,在BBQ炉上明火烤着牛肉饼,一边往烤箱里放蘑菇片和奶酪,同时又在长条案板上一气摆下十几个微烤的汉堡圆面包,双手并用的向里面加入生菜、番茄和洋葱片;另一名留着大胡子的老头负责接单收钱,他面前放着一个巨大的透明塑料桶,上面贴着片纸,写着“我们磨破屁股在为大家服务,请一定给小费”。想到这,小柯不禁在静默中微笑起来,是的,这就是希望了,这就是新奥尔良复兴的依托了。时光变迁,总有人离开,有人初到,只要一个城市延承的精神不死,只要有这些在夹缝中继续生存繁荣的新奥尔良人,这个美丽的城市就不会消亡。也许依旧贫穷,也许依旧要挣扎,可那古老的爵士曲调一定会继续吟唱下去。

             

音乐不死,美味依旧。《飘》中郝斯嘉仿佛又在说:“明天,明天一切都会好起来的。” 对,这就是南方的精神吧,哪怕脚步沉重,这原始的动力永远会推动这个城市继续呼吸,继续生存,继续繁荣。


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 永远的新奥尔良, 两万里逃难记 | no comments


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25


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两万里逃难记(29)——重返新奥尔良(上)


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       2005年10月11日

                          

小柯和大伟受姨妈之托,决定飞回新奥尔良察看家中灾情。市长宣布可以重回市里之后,小柯迫不及待的买了924日的机票,哪知还没走成,飓风Rita又来袭,无可奈何只好取消机票。在与Delta航空公司两天的不懈斗争后,终于等来了好消息:所有新奥尔良的灾民都可以免费在1030日之前改票。

            

机票搞定,重新改到105日,剩下的就是租车了。虽然在网上定好了车,还特意打电话到租车公司去问,在拿到车的前一分钟我们都不确认能租到车子:大部分的商业店铺还都没有开放,没亲眼看到心里总是要打小鼓。

           

出发前的周末,全家人上街大肆采购“战备物资”,也就是需要带过去的水,食物和一些清洁和修葺住房的工具。虽然早在网上察看过洪水水位地图,可这图的误差还是很大的。何况,除了洪水,房子还有可能遭受飓风的正面袭击,房顶是不是被吹掉一块,玻璃是不是都破碎了,谁也不知道。小柯和大伟总共带回家两个箱子:一箱子食物和工具,另一个纸箱是满满的水和八宝粥。本来还买了无数碗装方便面,后来发现没电又没气,方便面是无论如何吃不成的。好在走前一天小柯和邻居通了电话,邻居说家里竟然来电了!小柯欣喜之余,又把那些方便面塞回去五、六包。

            

上了飞机,小柯和大伟二人四目相对,大有“风萧萧兮易水寒”的悲壮,此去前途未卜,不知道等待我们的是什么样惨痛的景象;可转念又一想,管他呢,总之一切都已发生,是福是获都无法躲过,还不如放宽心,等到达目的地再哭鼻子也不迟。

              

一路顺利,我们于傍晚4点半第一次在灾后回到了曾经灯红酒绿,曾经浮华生色,让人魂牵梦系的家园。

            

取了行李等到租车公司的大巴把不多的几个乘客带入机场旁的停车场,首先映入眼帘的竟然是两棵被飓风吹倒的大树!虽然有了心理准备,第一次看到这样的景象小柯心里还是难过了一阵。大巴上的乘客也纷纷相对无言,神情黯淡。现在来到新奥尔良的大多都是这里的居民,回来察看灾情和计算损失来的。推己及人,谁也笑不出来了。

          

 租车公司停车场里倒下的大树

         

租车公司的车竟然都是全新,刚出车厂。我们租的那辆中型Chevrolet里程表上只有25英里,里外崭新。一路上车辆稀少,除了机场附近有点车流外越向我们家住的上城(uptown)开人越少。机场路两边Katrina肆虐的痕迹随处可见:歪歪斜斜的路标,破了洞锈迹斑驳的户外广告牌,Popeye残破的店墙,缺了一角的二楼阳台……很多街口的红绿灯都还没恢复,只能暂时放置stop牌子疏导交通。

几乎没几辆车的高速公路

机场路上

残破的广告牌

受损房屋

少了半面墙的popeye

和城市其他地方相比,上城遭受的损失相对较小,房屋大体都还保留原样。只有Carrolton Ave上被大火烧毁房屋的黑色断桓让人心惊。火灾残迹的对面就是一座巨大的天主教教堂,门口树立着一座洁白的耶稣雕像,旁边围着几只白色石羊,当然也少不了一只黑色羊羔静默在羊群一旁。不知道伟大的神看着狂风呼啸火光冲天,而自己却无力保护拯救这些无助羔羊的时候,心中是何感受?

             

到了家,看到那熟悉的青灰砖墙,小柯心里的一块大石总算落了地。房子还在,台阶上也没有被水浸泡过的痕迹。房门锁着,所有的窗户也都完好。开门进屋,里面一如原样,逃难前特意放倒的大镜子也还乖乖的躺在地板上。开灯,所有的灯泡都亮;开空调定温度到76度,通风口里的冷气也照常吹出。“老天,我们也太幸运了吧!”我忍不住脱口而出,不敢相信眼前的一切。

已是“曾经”的家

放下行李,穿过客厅,左边粉红色墙上的旧时回忆都在,提醒小柯过往的幸福时光。右手边的厨房却发出腐败的气味,地板上的通风口竟然长出一根绿色的牵牛花藤蔓,几片翠绿的叶子骄傲的在冷风中微微摇曳。看完叶子抬头看冰箱,小柯惊得几乎要晕过去!整个冰箱被笼罩在小飞虫的淡黄色云团里,那些美丽可爱的冰箱贴上都沾满了虫卵,小柯和大伟的结婚照片也不能幸免于难。小柯手扶厨房门框,通风口的寒气从下向上逼来让人不由得打了个寒战。之后小柯扶下身去,一手支在膝盖上,胃里什么东西在翻涌,差点要呕吐出来。扭头不看冰箱,其他柜橱都完好。水池里还放着Kiwi的猫草,不同的是所有的绿叶早已变黄,没了生机。

Kiwi的猫草

        

小柯和大伟租的房子是改良过的short-gun,也就是那种一个房间套一个房间如同火车包厢般一长溜的房子。过去新奥尔良的房子沿袭旧制是按照房子的宽度来收税的,所以相当一部分人家都把房子建成这种又窄又长的形式来逃避税赋。传统的short-gun最后一间是厨房,再前面一间是卧室,从客厅去厨房还要穿过卧室,很是不方便。所以现在大多数short-gun都改良一下,把厨房挪到房子中间,卧室变到后面去。小柯的家卧室和卫生间外面是客厅到卧室的过道,不再是一个房间套着另一个房间,所以厨房虽然污染严重,去还没影响到卫生间和卧室。尽管如此,我们还是决定立刻在厨房外面订上蓝色的防雨塑料布把厨房和过道隔离开。

             

第一晚就这样很平静的过去了。除了没有水,要用带去的饮用水洗漱外,倒也没有多大的不方便。只是没有了Kiwi在身边捣乱,有些安静。逃难前大伟刚给Kiwi做好的猫树静悄悄的站在房间角落,不知道自己的主人什么时候才回来。


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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 永远的新奥尔良, 两万里逃难记 | no comments


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(完)


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尾声 . 文中餐馆总结

 

卡真与克里欧的南方特色

Shell Shucked Sea Food & Oyster Bar: 1506 Carrollton Ave, (504) 861-1003

Commander’s Palace:1403 Washington Avenue, (504) 899-8221

Court of Two Sisters: 613 Royal Street (504) 581-5804

Franky & Johnny’s: 321 Arabella Street,(504) 899-9146

Jacques-Imo Café: 8324 Oak Street, (504) 861-0886

Adolfo’s: 611 Frenchmen St, (504) 948-3800

日本料理

Little Tokyo: 1521 N. Causeway Blvd., Metairie, (504) 831-6788

Horinoya: 920 Poydras St., (504) 561-8914

Miyako Sushi Bar & Habachi: 1403 St. Charles Ave., (504) 410-9997

Hana: 8116 Hampson Street, (504) 865-1634

Sake Café: 2830 Magazine St., (504) 894-0033

亚洲美味

Frosty’s Café: 3400 Cleary Ave., Metairie, (504) 888-9600

Tan Dinh: 2004 Belle Chasse Highway, Gretna, (504) 361-8008

Nirvana Indian Cuisine: 4308 Magazine Street, (504) 894-9797

Basil Leaf: 1438 S. Carrollton, (504) 862-9001

Siam Café: 435 Esplanade Avenue, (504) 949-1750

Siamese: 6601 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, (504) 454-8752

Korea House: 3547 18th Street, Metairie, (504) 888-0654

意大利:

Fresco Café & Pizzeria: 7625 Maple St., (504) 862-6363

Slice: 1513 St. Charles Ave., (504) 525-7437

Angeli’s : 1141 Decatur St, (504) 566-0077

Angelo Brocato’s: 214 N. Carrolton Ave., (504) 486-1465

西班牙与希腊:

Lola’s:  3312 Esplanade Avenue, (504) 488-6946

Laurentino’s: 4410 Transcontinental Drive, Metairie, (504) 779-9393

Byblos: 2020 Veterans Blvd , Metairie; 3218 Magazine St.

中东:

Lebanon’s Café: 1506 S. Carrollton Avenue, (504) 862-6200

Jamila’s Café: 7808 Maple Street, (504) 866-4366

墨西哥:

Kokopelli’s: 3150 Calhoun Street, (504) 861-3922

Juan’s Flying Burrito: 2018 Magazine Street, (504) 569-0000

Superior Grill: 3636 St. Charles Avenue, (504) 899-4200

Nacho Mama’s: 3242 Magazine St., (504) 899-0031

美国小馆:

Camellia Grill: 626 S. Carrollton Ave.

Riccobono’s Ponola St Café: 7801 Panola St., (504) 314-1810

Clover Grill: 900 Bourbon Street, (504) 598-1010

Bluebird’s Café: 3625 Prytania Street, (504) 895-7166

Surray’s Juice Bar: 1418 Magazine St., (504) 524-3828

Café Du Monde: 800 Decatur Street, (504) 525-4544

Port of Call: 838 Esplanade Avenue, (504) 523-0120

Cooter Brown’s: 509 S. Carrollton Avenue, (504) 866-9104

法国大餐:

Peristyle: 1041 Dumaine Street, (504) 593-9535

Rene Bistro: 817 Common St, (504) 412-2580

Antoine’s: 713 St. Louis Street, (504) 581-4422

Emeril’s: 800 Tchoupitoulas St., (504) 528-9393

La Crepe Nanou: 1410 Robert Street, (504) 899-2670

Croissant d’Or Patisserie: 617 Ursulines Ave, (504) 524-4663

中餐:

Asia Super Buffet: 3900 Williams Blvd., Kenner, (504) 712-0899

Panda King: 925 Behrman Ave., (504) 433-0588

Five Happiness: 3605 S. Carrollton Avenue, (504) 482-3935

Asian Cajun Bistro: 301 Decatur Street, (504) 522-4964


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June 29th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(十)


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十.        永远的中餐

 

美国的中餐与在国内是无法比拟的。即便是在美食大本营的新奥尔良,要想找两家地道的中餐厅还真不是件容易事。飓风前有几家不错的风味小馆,比如擅长南京菜与川菜的“中国玫瑰(China Rose)”,新奥尔良东城的粤菜馆“新香港(New Hong Kong Restaurant),可惜飓风过后这些好餐馆都正处毁损最严重的地带,餐馆旧址至今断瓦残垣,不知道何时才会恢复营业。

其实小柯真的很为这些中餐馆鸣不平。虽然中餐一贯本着薄利多销以量取胜的策略,在美国从来都属于最便宜的菜系,但在中国大陆的中餐馆却已经开始用特色,而不是价格来取胜了。不说北京上海,就是在普通的中型城市随便一逛,也总有装饰华丽设计精美的高雅中餐馆让人心甘情愿掏出银子过眼瘾嘴瘾。可为什么到了美国,就很难找到高雅精致的中餐饭店呢?即使不能昂贵如法国大餐,但也总应该有那么几家档次与意大利中等餐馆类似的啊。目前为止,似乎除了打着明星招牌的休斯顿姚明餐厅,小柯还真没听说过几家好地段好装潢好味道好情调的地道中餐厅。如此的低调路线,在新奥尔良遭遇Katrina特大飓风后底气也最薄,久久不能从阴霾中恢复过来。

所以在新奥尔良吃中餐,还真没有什么选择。要么象小柯一样自己开《中国饭店》,要么就奔赴自助餐馆。吃来吃去,自助餐里有两家还算不错。

一家叫Asia Super Buffet, 3900 Williams Blvd., Kenner, (504) 712-0899。虽然位于机场附近距离新奥尔良中心比较遥远,但这里周末的海鲜自助餐味道还真不错,尤其是遇上葱姜龙虾那最为幸运,口感不比洛杉矶中国城里按只买的差。除此之外,这里的广东小点心也非常值得品尝,什么橘子糯米甜饭、韭菜鲜虾水煎小包,豆豉凤爪,虾仁酿茄子等等都非常可口,百试不爽。

再有一家位于密西西比河西岸最大的亚洲超市旁边的“熊皇(Panda King, 925 Behrman Ave., 504-433-0588)自助餐”,虽然并非纯粹的中餐,还兼有越南虾卷,泰国酸辣汤等亚洲风味,但大部分中餐菜色倒也做得像模像样,物有所值。

在飓风后这些重新开业的中餐馆里,倒也有两家城中小有名气。一家是位于中城的“五福(Five Happiness, 3605 S. Carrollton Avenue, 504-482-3935),非常受美国人欢迎。虽然这家餐馆味道不错,尤其是那道生菜卷粉丝炒鸡丁很令人喜爱,可小柯仍然认为这并不算地道的中餐馆,基本上已经是中美结合的“Chinglish”食物。即使如此,这家的气氛还算雅致,偶尔一尝也算不错。

另一家虽然也不是地道的中餐,但是掌勺大厨却是鼎鼎大名的香港赴美厨师Philip Chan。这位于1994年当选全美年度风云厨师的陈厨从亚特兰大来到新奥尔良,在法国区开出了这家Asian Cajun Bistro (301 Decatur Street, 504-522-4964),其特色是将南方本地的特色风味与亚洲铁锅爆炒的烹饪方式结合起来创新,比如“路易斯安那醉虾”、“亚洲卡真酿馅鸡”、“海鲜大烩(Bouillabaisse)”等。如果担心新创菜色不合口味,这里还有北京烤鸭配荷叶饼可以选择。需要提醒的是这家餐馆虽然也算中餐,但好歹也是名厨主理的正宗bistro,所以价格一点不便宜。

小柯真希望新奥尔良城中有更多的美味中餐馆可以让我花时间深入讨论,可南方就是南方,要吃地道的中餐,还得不远千里去纽约或者洛杉矶。但不管在哪里,对于中国人来说,中餐永远都是心头的那颗朱砂痔。哪怕走遍千山万水尝尽人间美味,中餐、中文,还有中国的声音,永远是那一抹熟悉的床前明月光,指引着浓浓的乡愁,提醒着游子们家乡的方向。


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June 29th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | 2 comments


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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

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Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 776

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 320
盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(九)


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九.        法国大餐

新奥尔良与法国的历史源源说起来可就长了。因为其优良的地理位置与航运便利,这座城市兴建于1718年,当时的主要头头是法国人Jean-Baptiste Bienville。Bienville带领一帮法国人在密西西比河口安了家,最早的新奥尔良老城就是今天河边的法国区。不过法国为了牵制英国在北美的殖民势力扩张于1763年与西班牙签订协议,也不管法国区里哭爹喊娘自以为是的法国人们多么心不甘情不愿,还是把新奥尔良当政治礼物送了出去。后来法国与西班牙爆发战争,西班牙的势力逐步消亡,尤其是拿破轮上台后,西班牙于1801年终于被迫将新奥尔良还给法国。

法国人这下终于扬眉吐气了,可法国区再也不复当年建城时的法国风情。原来在西班牙统治新奥尔良的这40年间,法国区刚好烧了两场大火:1788年和1794年,尤其是1788年这场最为惨重。本来法国区的法国风格建筑都是木制结构,一家不小心半夜着火,火借风势迅速蔓延,再加上各家各户都有弹药火枪,不及时组织人力扑救那整个城市肯定要沦为火海。赶巧的是起火当天是3月21日星期五,基督教耶稣受难的纪念日。本来法国区腹地Jackson Square上的St. Louis Cathedral大教堂的钟声同时是用于火灾警报的,可当时迂腐的神甫就是不干,说要严格依据基督教义不能在神圣礼拜五敲钟。于是大火迅速吞噬了整个新奥尔良,只有一幢修道院幸存,就连宏伟的St. Louis Cathedral也化为灰烬。六年后法国区又着了场大火,彻底磨灭了法国人在新奥尔良的建筑痕迹。结果今天的法国区老房子大多是西班牙建筑风格,不过法国对新奥尔良的长久影响仍然渗透到生活的方方面面,尤其是饮食。

可是正因为法国对新奥尔良的影响有200多年,时间长了,法国饮食习惯与南方本地的原料、烹饪风格结合起来,所以新奥尔良的法国餐馆都是带有南方独特烙印的,也就是说,在新奥尔良吃到的法国菜,很难与卡真和克里欧脱得了干系。新奥尔良最具特色也最贵的法国餐馆们,几乎个个都是法国大餐与克里欧风味相结合,比如前面提到过排名第一的将军宫和Court of Two Sisters。

这些昂贵的法国餐馆们小柯去过的没几个,只能依据本地报纸的一贯评级推荐两家:Peristyle, 1041 Dumaine Street, (504) 593-9535; Rene Bistro, 817 Common St, (504) 412-2580。这两家是众多高档法国餐馆里多年连续入选最佳高档餐厅、最佳法国菜的数家之一,不仅在新奥尔良,就是全国性的美食杂志都曾经做过专题介绍。去这样的地方,一定要提前预约。还有一家已经有160年历史的Antoine’s (713 St. Louis Street, 504-581-4422) 是新奥尔良最古老的餐馆之一。除了大聚餐厅,Antoine’s还有不同名称的小餐厅,装潢奢侈而艳丽堂皇。在这里吃饭,除了品尝著名的Oyster Rockefeller,更重要是体会倒流的时光,追诉永远逝去的辉煌。

Rex Room in Antoine’s

 

介绍新奥尔良的高档法国餐馆,虽然有一家排名不似前面两家靠前,但是名头却绝对响当当,凡是美国人没有不知道的。对啦,说的就是新奥尔良最著名的厨师Emeril Lagasee在本地开设的Emeril’s (800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504-528-9393)。常看美食频道的朋友一定知道Emeril,他有多个自己的烹饪节目,风格轻松随意,还有那句著名的大喊“Bam!”。不看烹饪节目的大概也看过高露洁牙膏的广告,里面那个因为桂皮味新高露洁牙膏的劲道而半夜大喊“Bam!”惊醒整幢楼的人就是他啦。Emeril现在不仅是著名厨师,更开设了自己的烹饪王国,出售菜谱与厨房用具。除了新奥尔良的多家餐馆之外,更在美国最繁华的旅游城市,比如Orlando, Las Vegas, Miami等地开设了一系列Emeril’s餐馆分店。去过Universal Studios主题乐园游览的游客大概都有印象在City Walk看到过这个名号的高档餐厅吧。

新奥尔良这家Emeril’s总店,小柯竟然有幸在几年前与朋友一同去过,至今记忆深刻。这深刻的记忆一方面来自于不菲的价格,让初来美国的我刻骨铭心;另一方面来自于超凡的美味,让刚刚走出中餐的我见了世面。那天我点的是一道烤鸭腿,配以威士忌面包布丁。毫不夸张的说,那只鸭腿是我在美国吃过最美味的鸭子:表皮香脆,里面的肉松软多汁,稍微蘸点威士忌面包布丁的褐色汁液,鸭肉的嫩、威士忌的冲、布丁的甜混合在一起形成一种言语无法描述的香,似乎带着些许酒精的微苦,舌尖转动仔细一品又没有了,只剩下味蕾的激荡与想要立刻再吃的强烈欲望。我们隔壁那一桌子不知是否专门来享受法式甜点的,满满一桌子各式蛋糕、冰激凌、布丁、奶昔饮料,两个穿商务套装的男人正襟危坐在一片眼花缭乱中一小勺一小口的品,让我又怀疑这两个肯定是什么杂志的美食评论家。

Emeril’s in New Orleans

 

如果没有银子去Emeril’s,去餐馆里的酒吧小酌一杯感受一下明星餐厅的气氛也好。当然,城中也有味道又好价格还算能承受得起的法国餐厅,比如花园区的La Crepe Nanou (1410 Robert Street, 504-899-2670)。

这一家同时也是城中最浪漫的几家餐馆之一,不接受预约,一到周末门口就排成长龙。餐馆的氛围非常具有欧洲那种小而暖的特色。小小的方桌挤在长长的走廊,彩色的壁画在昏暗的灯光下变作水彩般氤氲,小小的玻璃烛台里火苗跃动,彼此的面孔也因为火光变得温暖而充满光彩。恋人之间的表白,小柯想不出来更浪漫的所在。

餐如其名,这里最受欢迎的就是法国薄煎饼Crepes。炖蔬菜的,红酒熬牛肉的都价格公道又美味。这里同时还有价位更高些的牛排、鱼等,最好配以品种繁多的法国红酒,将情调推向极至。

说完法国大餐,最后不能不提一提享誉全球的法国点心。法国区腹地617 Ursulines Ave 上的Croissant d’Or Patisserie(504-524-4663)是全城著名的法国糕点店。空气清新的早晨去点一个享有盛誉的杏仁或苹果牛角面包(croissant),喝上一杯香浓的Café Au Lait,然后沿着法国区狭窄又色彩缤纷的街道信步闲逛一圈,看看橱窗里色彩浓重的油画和闪着玄光的水晶吊灯。或者赶个淅沥细雨的中午,点上一个圆圆的火腿蛋奶酪法式咸派(quiche),坐在窗边看游客行人举着花花绿绿的雨伞匆匆而过,看连续不断的水滴是怎么从倾斜屋顶上沿着灰色的瓦片不停坠落,然后一小口一小口把新奥尔良的美丽就着可口的咸派吃进去。而对这个城市的爱情,也就此扎根生长绵延,直到天——长——地——久。

 

  杏仁牛角面包                        火腿蛋奶酪咸派


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June 26th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(八)


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八.美国小馆

说到美国菜,心中的第一反应肯定是汉堡包,炸鸡翅。没办法,麦当劳肯德基在向全世界推广美国垃圾食品的同时,也让全世界人民对美国饭产生了偏见,觉得美国饮食除了这些垃圾就什么都没有了。

小柯来到美国才知道,这真是个错误的印象,至少在新奥尔良的美食天堂里,美国饭也有美国饭的好。

阳光明媚的周末,吃个早午饭我最爱去美国小馆,不仅价格便宜分量足,更重要的是环境舒适,东西美味。比如说上城的Camellia Grill(626 S. Carrollton Ave.)。这家飓风前最热闹的美国小馆可以说如同Café Du Monde 一样已经成为新奥尔良的标志性餐馆,加上门外就是隆隆而过的街车,这里是新奥尔良游客的必经之地。它的风采就在于其传统的南方烹饪方式与餐厅格局。

周末上午先在门外排半小时队是最稀松平常的,终于进去之后一行人被分配座位,坐在如同几个“几”字型的大吧台外面,对面就是灶台,点了吃的,厨师大叔开始在黑色平板铁面灶台上忙活,煎蛋饼的煎蛋饼,烤汉堡大肉的烤肉。大叔们边做还边哼哼着唱,饭馆里清一色的黑人厨师侍者,说话都是叽里咕噜的南方口音,唱起来就更听不清了,不过总归都是南方欢乐的调子,听得人也想跟着摇晃。后面的唱,前面的侍者也不闲着,一边给大家端咖啡果汁,一边伸出右手握拳跟大家用黑人特有的方式打招呼。看到面善的,侍者们嘴也不闲着,笑话是张嘴就来,非得逗得人哈哈大笑不可。除了服务,这里的东西也的确好味,蛋饼、三明治还有烤汉堡都是南方风格:量大味又足。

可惜,飓风过后Camellia Grill尚未开门。每次我经过如今贴满了粉红色海报广告的那幢白房子的时候心中都充满了惆怅,望着空空如也的街车轨道,不知道这座小馆,这个城市什么时候才能真正恢复过来,重现往日的辉煌?

这样独具魅力的美国街头小馆在新奥尔良有很多,小柯家门口就是一个。这家Riccobono’s Ponola St Café (7801 Panola St., 504-314-1810) 是小柯最常去的,从早七点营业到下午两点,离家门只有一个街区,可周末去晚了每次都要排队。 Ponola St Café 的装饰十分简洁,有点Key West海边的简陋小咖啡馆的意思,墙壁上是本地画廊画家的作品,大部分都很乡土,有些甚至丑陋,可标价也并不便宜,不知道什么人会买。

这里最出名的是蟹肉蛋(crab cake egg benedict)。两块鲜美多汁的蟹肉饼浇上酱汁端出来,每块上面放一个嫩嫩的荷包蛋,嫩到连里面的蛋黄都隐约可见。每个荷包蛋上再放半颗黑色的橄榄,这形象很难不让人想入非非。如此娇嫩的荷包蛋用叉子一捅就破掉了,里面的稀蛋黄迅速流出来,与蟹肉汁混合到一起,要趁热快吃。

这里的便宜三明治绝对可以称得上物美价廉,尤其是法国面包烤香肠,4块钱左右,胃口小的还得打包半个带回去。不知道如果小柯仍然留在新奥尔良的话,某个礼拜天清早会不会与读到这篇文章的你在Ponola St. Café 邂逅?

如果你象小柯一样自诩为“鸡蛋终结者”这样的狂爱鸡蛋,那么就一定不要错过法国区里一家装饰简单24小时营业的小馆:Clover Grill,900 Bourbon Street, (504) 598-1010。这里的煎蛋饼据说是全城最棒的,其秘诀在于蛋液中加入黄油,搅拌均匀后才煎。如此加料出来的煎蛋饼不仅颜色淡黄宜人,口感更是又香又嫩,要是再配上熔化后拖出长丝来的奶酪与咸鲜小香肠,最后的成果真可以叫绝得没治了。

如果早餐不想吃这些油腻的美国早点而渴望简单清爽的英国口味,那么花园区的“青鸟咖啡”(Bluebird’s Café, 3625 Prytania Street, 504- 895-7166)就是最佳选择。“青鸟”的早餐薄饼(pancake)最为著名,小柯建议尝试一下荞麦面(buckwheat)薄饼,搭配新鲜草莓、蓝莓或者香蕉樱桃,浇上糖浆,点缀一小勺鲜奶油,这个清晨就真正找到幸福的青鸟了。要是连早餐薄饼都不想吃,那么就去1418 Magazine St上的Surray’s Juice Bar(504-524-3828)去喝各式各样的新鲜榨果汁吧,保证给你一个最清爽的上午。

除了这些早午餐小馆,咖啡小馆也别忘了逛,尤其是法国区的Café Du Monde (800 Decatur Street, 504- 525-4544),24小时营业。这家除了法式咖啡牛奶(Café Au Lait)香浓,拿铁咖啡(Café Latte)泡沫细腻之外,一定要吃的是这里特别的法国甜点Beignet(发音“般尼耶特”)。这种正方形用热油深炸的面食虽然据说是甜甜圈的一种,可口感更象中国的油条。不过Beignets上面还要撒上厚厚的糖粉,吃的时候先在盘子里轻轻磕一磕,去除多余的糖粉,然后屏气凝神慢慢品位。咬的时候不要妄想边吃边说,小心糖粉被吸进喉咙里呛到。这家已经经营超过百年的老店是新奥尔良的象征之一,可以说如果没来这里喝咖啡吃Beignets就不算来过新奥尔良。

Cafe Du Monde

 

说了这么多早午餐小馆,可是美国饭毕竟不是只有早点与咖啡,汉堡炸鸡的确是重要的组成部分。要想吃到真正美味的美国汉堡,在新奥尔良一定不能错过的是这家Port of Call (838 Esplanade Avenue, 504- 523-0120)。在这里汉堡不是点完菜单上的一种就等着侍者端上来吃,而要自己告诉人家里面的肉要烤到什么程度:熟还是中间带血,就如同吃牛排一样。汉堡里肉上“穿的衣服”也不仅仅就是生菜、番茄那么简单,还可以选择炒洋葱与炖蘑菇,调料除了番茄酱还可以加美奶滋、黄色芥末、蜂蜜芥末、烧烤酱、辣酱等等。就是这么一个小小的汉堡,放了心思进去也可以从垃圾变精品。

如果吃饭的时候正好赶上体育赛事,那么小柯推荐去上城的Cooter Brown’s,509 S. Carrollton Avenue,504- 866-9104。这家进去就先被环绕厅堂的巨大闭路电视所震撼,大厅一边是个设施超级齐全的酒吧,各国啤酒在这里应有尽有。酒吧旁边是生蚝吧,就是不吃饭,与哥们儿来这里叫上半打生蚝喝瓶啤酒看体育赛事也是人生一大快事。吃生蚝最好配以咸饼干、新鲜柠檬汁与鸡尾酒酱。软软嫩嫩微灰色的一块肉轻轻挑出来在咸饼干上躺好,上面抹以辛辣的鸡尾酒酱,轻点几滴鲜柠檬汁,一口全吞下去,又是鲜美又是爽快。Cooter Brown’s生蚝吧里的咸饼干与鸡尾酒酱都是自助,尤其是自调鸡尾酒酱,第一次保证新鲜有趣。

除了生蚝,Cooter Brown’s的汉堡与三明治也都顶呱呱,不信的话看他们墙上巨大的菜单就知道了:有一个汉堡美味到“吃完打娘”! 这样还不算,下面是一个据称更美味的,“吃完打姥姥”!不管真的假的,欣赏这幽默又可爱的菜单时别忘了观察厨房里烤汉堡厨师的单人舞蹈。烟熏火燎中这位大厨忙得健步如飞,一边翻动明火上的汉堡肉,一边把香肠送入烤箱去烤,同时一边挥动大笊篱拼命炸薯条,一边又分开十几个圆面包准备接烤好的汉堡大肉。别看忙,人多压力大,可人家大厨就是步伐稳健毫不错乱,那管一干食客看得目瞪口呆还是赞叹连连。

小柯喜欢去这样的美国小馆,未必精致,却一定温馨、温暖、热情。这才是我所热爱的新奥尔良。


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June 21st, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(七)


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七.        欢乐墨西哥

 

说到吃墨西哥菜,小柯头脑里立刻出现两样东西:过油豆与奶酪。

没错,这两样东西可以说是墨西哥菜必不可少的主要原料。过油豆英文叫做“refried beans”,传统做法是先用洋葱炒热猪油,然后把煮熟的大豆丢进去用锅铲压碎,与猪油均匀的混合在一起直至黏稠。奶酪在所有西方饮食中都常见,这里就不多说了。

中国人去吃墨西哥大餐,最常点的就是墨西哥铁板系列(Fajita)。不管是鸡肉、牛肉还是猪肉,都切好放到黑生铁锅里滋滋冒着热气的拿将上来,同来的还有一小屉薄面饼,切得细稀碎碎的碧绿生菜、艳红的辣番茄酱、红褐色的过油豆和雪白酸奶油,当然也少不了橘黄色的Cheddar奶酪。吃的时候把这些五颜六色的零碎统统卷进面饼里,就如同中国山东的大饼卷肉,满满一口咬下去香得流油。

墨西哥人一定是偏爱这种五颜六色饼卷肉的吃法,除了铁板系列,还有专门卷好了端上来的,比如“塔哥”与“玻璃多”。

“塔哥”(taco)指油煎或烘烤成型的玉米面小硬饼,本来的圆饼被叠成半圆,硬硬的支在那,把刚才说的那些零碎放进“塔哥”两片半圆中间,三面都不封口。手拿稳了脆脆的咬下去,除了里面主配菜酸奶油的劲道,还有煎饼的香脆。

“玻璃多”指“burrito”,完全音译,与玻璃没有半点关系。上城一家不知名的小馆“驼背人” (Kokopelli’s, 3150 Calhoun Street, 504- 861-3922)最擅长这“玻璃多”。“玻璃多”的饼比一般的“塔哥”或者铁板系列的饼都大得多,足有十寸见方,除了普通的面饼,还有加入菠菜汁的绿饼与加入番茄汁的红饼。“驼背人”小馆有一个高高的柜台,侍者一样样问你要加什么,加哪种。比如米饭有白米与粗褐米;豆子有过油豆与普通煮黑豆等等。这里的酱汁也有三种:番茄酱为主的微辣,玉米粒与墨西哥尖辣椒为主的强辣和二者结合的中辣。都选完了你就站在高柜台后等吧,一会儿一个被叠成长方形足有一块砖头那么大的“玻璃多”就被包在明晃晃的锡纸里送出来了。六块钱这么一块大砖头,每个能顶我两顿饭。

可惜的是“驼背人”目前尚未恢复营业,要享受实惠又地道的“玻璃多”,只好去著名的Magazine大道,稍微多花一点钱去人头攒动的Juan’s Flying Burrito(2018 Magazine Street,504-569-0000)。不过虽然这家“飞行玻璃多”稍微贵一点点,但是气氛与厅堂宽敞程度都胜过“驼背人”,非常值得尝试。

既然墨西哥菜离不开奶酪,对于超级爱吃奶酪的食客来说,有一道菜小柯一定要推荐一下:Enchilada,西班牙语中辣肉酱汁的意思。这道菜与“玻璃多”相似,不过每盘里两到三个“玻璃多”都是瘪瘪小小的,平平的躺在盘子里。之后这些“玻璃多”身上被浇上大量融化了的奶酪,奶香四溢,每一口奶酪都拖好几跟长丝出来。当然,“玻璃多”上面也可以不浇融化奶酪,而以辣肉酱汁代替。小柯真是喜欢这墨西哥风味的肉酱,自作主张把它与美国的早餐蛋饼结合起来,象吃enchilada一样给蛋饼也浇上一层肉酱,最后的结果就成了又香又辣的墨西哥风味蛋饼。

新奥尔良的墨西哥餐馆当然不如德克萨斯州受墨西哥文化影响强烈的圣安东尼奥,不过这家Superior Grill(3636 St. Charles Avenue,504-899-4200)还值得推荐,尤其是Enchilada,相当美味。

对于喜欢吃墨西哥土豆片的人来说,Nacho Mama’s (3242 Magazine St., 504- 899-0031) 的各式蘸酱实在好吃得不得了,尤其是那个上面浇满了肉酱、奶酪、辣番茄酱的超级土豆片,虽然卡路里高得惊人,可惊艳度也如同新奥尔良的盛夏气温,只升不降。 


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June 20th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(六)


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六.        中东的异国情调

 

回想小柯第一次吃中东菜,应该是在阿拉巴马州的伯明翰市,沙拉里的腌橄榄让我皱了一路眉头,唯一记住的是中东的羊肉好吃,又软又嫩滋味又足。

后来才知道,那个软软的羊肉菜叫做Gyro,其实并不都是羊肉,而是羊肉、牛肉,甚至有些餐馆还放入猪肉切碎了与香料混合在一起烤出来的。Gyro通常与中东口袋饼(Pita bread)和哈马斯酱(Hummus)一起食用,吃的时候把切成两半的口袋饼从中间破开,在“口袋‘中放入混合肉与哈马斯酱,也可以把随盘同来的蔬菜沙拉加进去。因为中东菜里配主菜的蔬菜沙拉一般都是用简单的醋与香油调味,十分清淡,不会盖过主菜本身的味道,也不会浓过乳白色哈马斯酱本身的香中带酸。等这些东西都放齐了,口袋也就收口了。如同一个大三明治般,连饼带肉带酱带菜的咬下去,那真是香啊!

当然,中东菜最大的特色确实是烤羊肉,尤其是那种大肉串,连肉带蔬菜一起烤,还是那个字:香!不过自从小柯开发了新奥尔良上城的黎巴嫩餐馆:Lebanon’s Café (1506 S. Carrollton Avenue, 504- 862-6200) 之后,才发现原来中东菜还有那么多超级美味的珍宝,而这家黎巴嫩餐馆也成为“小柯导游图”的另一个必经之地。

在黎巴嫩餐馆里吃饭,一定要点那道迷迭香烤羊排(Rosemary Lamb Chops),最好烤得外焦里嫩中间带一点点血丝,然后叮嘱侍者从厨房那一小杯红辣椒粉,一小杯孜然粉。吃的时候羊排可以蘸哈马斯酱,也可以蘸特意要的辣椒粉加孜然粉。如果是后一种,那简直就是最正宗的新疆烤羊排啊,吃完没有不竖大拇指叫好的。与羊排同来的还有烤蔬菜,其中烤番茄与绿豆角永远都是我的最爱。尽管这迷迭香烤羊排是黎巴嫩餐馆里最贵的一道菜($18),但因为量大,六块羊排足够两人分食,性价比还是相当高的。

尽管羊肉是中东菜的特色,素食者在黎巴嫩餐馆同样可以享受美味一等一的菜色,小柯在这里强烈推荐用黑色生铁煎锅烤出来的素食锅(Veggie Plate)。这道菜最下面是一层加了香草调料的印度巴斯玛提米饭,中间是洋葱、番茄、豆角、西葫、茄子等的蔬菜大集合,最上面是厚厚的一层奶酪,烤到完美。一大锅分量十足,足够两人食用。如果同去的人多,小柯还推荐头盘里的大杂烩(Appetizer sampler),可以尽尝不同中东美味。

如果还想更进一步,饮料也可以发挥冒险精神点一杯黎巴嫩甜茶。茶里因为加了玫瑰水花香馥郁,同时因为有松子漂浮在水面上,茶变得更香。不过这种香更接近于香水的芬芳,喝起来有种怪异的感觉,很有几分异国情调。

吃完大量羊肉,估计没几个人还有胃口心思吃甜点。正好,结帐时候与帐单同来的还有糖裹的杏仁,简单一颗正好当甜点清口。在黎巴嫩餐馆吃饭,花钱不会太贵,保准吃完了还想再来。

除了烤羊肉,中东风味的炖羊肉原来也是不可多得的人间美味。

这家将羊肉炖出灵魂来的餐馆叫做Jamila’s Café (7808 Maple Street, 504- 866-4366),是艾小柯在新奥尔良又一家全心钟爱的美食天堂。这家小小的餐厅坐落于Maple 街一个不起眼的老房子里,简单的木门小招牌,如果不是门外玻璃框里的菜单与大玻璃窗里的串串小灯,驱车而过是太容易与这里失之交臂了。

餐馆主人Moncef Sbaa 与妻子Jamila 是北非地中海岸的突尼斯国人,12年前来到新奥尔良开出这家餐馆。烹饪风格融合了突尼斯家常菜、中东与法国风情,菜单上许多菜色都是这里独有的创新。来这里吃饭,十有八九能碰到热情好客的老板Sbaa本人。他不说“欢迎光临”,而是“欢迎回家”,难怪,看看店里七八成的老顾客就知道了。不过新人也不要紧,Sbaa喜欢给食客介绍突尼斯的传统与特色食品,有什么问题尽管问,绝对包君满意。

Jamila’s Café 最著名的是它的瓦罐炖羊肉与蒸粗麦粉(couscous)。小柯对蒸粗麦粉不十分感兴趣,每次来都认准了那瓦罐羊肉。小小一个瓦罐,里面是热气 腾腾的羊肉炖汤,褐色的汤汁里面一块块炖得稀烂的羊肉,没有半点膻腥,只有羊肉最纯正的香浓与鲜肥。这一罐羊肉配一晚印度巴斯玛提长粒米饭,最好把羊汤浇在米饭里,让溶化了的羊脂精华与巴斯玛提米饭特殊的清香完美结合。清冷的冬日夜晚来这里吃上一餐炖羊肉,暖得可不仅仅是胃。

除了突尼斯家常菜,Jamila’s Café还以法国风味著名,尤其是头盘的蜗牛。小柯在《食色性也》这篇文章中提到的法国蜗牛就出自这里。六只肥美的蜗牛放在纯白的小瓷皿里端出来,每只都浸泡在溶化的热黄油里,表面是一层深绿的细碎欧芹。蜗牛本身并没有多少肉可嚼,吃的是口感的滑爽,品的是味道的鲜与一点点的腥,用欧芹的清香来平衡是最完美不过的。这道蜗牛是小柯吃过最性感的菜色,来Jamila’s Café ,这道非吃不可。

既然拥有如此调情乱性的美食,Jamila’s Café的气氛也相应的极为浪漫优雅。闪烁的串串小灯与耳边隐隐约约的突尼斯音乐总让人有身临仙境的错觉,而幽暗的环境,跳动的蜡烛火苗都让四目脉脉相对这样的瞬间延绵成永恒。吃完了饭,还有侍者端来香橙花水来濯玉手,进一步将优雅的浪漫氛围推向顶点。每年情人节的时候这里都要预约,一对对一双双佳偶璧人纷纷现身这小巷小馆,正迎合了那句老话:酒香不怕巷子深。


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June 19th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(五)


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五.        西班牙与希腊风情

 

虽然西班牙殖民者在新奥尔良土地上留下了无法磨灭的痕迹,法国区的建筑也是空挂了法国的名号,其实全都是西班牙特色,可西班牙餐馆却没能如同祖宗们的圆拱门与繁复的雕花生铁栏杆一样在新奥尔良笑傲江湖。不过俗话说食不在多,只要地道精致,哪怕只有一家也足够竖起旗号,美名远播,比如说这西班牙餐馆Lola’s, 3312 Esplanade Avenue, (504) 488-6946。

别看Lola’s地处不算太繁华的Esplanade街地段,餐馆连信用卡都不收,自己也不卖酒,更不接受预约,可城中喜爱西班牙食物的人们,尤其是年轻人们都爱来这里品尝地道的西班牙海鲜饭,哪怕在外面排队等待一个钟头也乐此不疲。更有本地画家,专门画街道与法国区小馆水粉画的,把一副副作品贴在Lola’s店铺墙上,南方到不能再南方。

Lola’s的店面极小,座位几乎是人挨人人挤人;不过这样的布局似乎更帮衬了热烈的南欧风情,每晚都是笑语欢歌,人声鼎沸。Lola’s最受欢迎的菜色是各式炒饭,海鲜、鸡肉还有素炒,一大锅色彩斑斓的端上来,虽然价格不算便宜,但往往几个朋友共同分享,性价比就显著提高了。除了海鲜炒饭,这里的全素菜也口味独特。虽然不比西班牙本地,可来过的食客,甚至欧洲人,都说这里非常地道。

除了Lola’s,新奥尔良地区还有一家叫做Laurentino’s (4410 Transcontinental Drive , Metairie, 504-779-9393) 西班牙餐馆也享有盛誉,不妨一试。

简单说完西班牙,欧洲另一边的南欧国家希腊也不能错过。在商业区Metairie与上城都有分店的Byblos就是品尝希腊美食的正经去处。位于2020 Veterans Blvd , Metairie 上的分店面向大众,店面较小东西也物美价廉;3218 Magazine St. 上这家就走中高档路线,店面宽敞雅致,串烧肉与扁豆汤是这里的特色。

正因为地理位置处于地中海,希腊菜在口味上十分接近中东菜,区别在于希腊菜更为普遍的使用鱼类原料,比起烟熏火燎的中东大肉似乎更加健康。


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Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
June 16th, 2006
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