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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(八)


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八.美国小馆

说到美国菜,心中的第一反应肯定是汉堡包,炸鸡翅。没办法,麦当劳肯德基在向全世界推广美国垃圾食品的同时,也让全世界人民对美国饭产生了偏见,觉得美国饮食除了这些垃圾就什么都没有了。

小柯来到美国才知道,这真是个错误的印象,至少在新奥尔良的美食天堂里,美国饭也有美国饭的好。

阳光明媚的周末,吃个早午饭我最爱去美国小馆,不仅价格便宜分量足,更重要的是环境舒适,东西美味。比如说上城的Camellia Grill(626 S. Carrollton Ave.)。这家飓风前最热闹的美国小馆可以说如同Café Du Monde 一样已经成为新奥尔良的标志性餐馆,加上门外就是隆隆而过的街车,这里是新奥尔良游客的必经之地。它的风采就在于其传统的南方烹饪方式与餐厅格局。

周末上午先在门外排半小时队是最稀松平常的,终于进去之后一行人被分配座位,坐在如同几个“几”字型的大吧台外面,对面就是灶台,点了吃的,厨师大叔开始在黑色平板铁面灶台上忙活,煎蛋饼的煎蛋饼,烤汉堡大肉的烤肉。大叔们边做还边哼哼着唱,饭馆里清一色的黑人厨师侍者,说话都是叽里咕噜的南方口音,唱起来就更听不清了,不过总归都是南方欢乐的调子,听得人也想跟着摇晃。后面的唱,前面的侍者也不闲着,一边给大家端咖啡果汁,一边伸出右手握拳跟大家用黑人特有的方式打招呼。看到面善的,侍者们嘴也不闲着,笑话是张嘴就来,非得逗得人哈哈大笑不可。除了服务,这里的东西也的确好味,蛋饼、三明治还有烤汉堡都是南方风格:量大味又足。

可惜,飓风过后Camellia Grill尚未开门。每次我经过如今贴满了粉红色海报广告的那幢白房子的时候心中都充满了惆怅,望着空空如也的街车轨道,不知道这座小馆,这个城市什么时候才能真正恢复过来,重现往日的辉煌?

这样独具魅力的美国街头小馆在新奥尔良有很多,小柯家门口就是一个。这家Riccobono’s Ponola St Café (7801 Panola St., 504-314-1810) 是小柯最常去的,从早七点营业到下午两点,离家门只有一个街区,可周末去晚了每次都要排队。 Ponola St Café 的装饰十分简洁,有点Key West海边的简陋小咖啡馆的意思,墙壁上是本地画廊画家的作品,大部分都很乡土,有些甚至丑陋,可标价也并不便宜,不知道什么人会买。

这里最出名的是蟹肉蛋(crab cake egg benedict)。两块鲜美多汁的蟹肉饼浇上酱汁端出来,每块上面放一个嫩嫩的荷包蛋,嫩到连里面的蛋黄都隐约可见。每个荷包蛋上再放半颗黑色的橄榄,这形象很难不让人想入非非。如此娇嫩的荷包蛋用叉子一捅就破掉了,里面的稀蛋黄迅速流出来,与蟹肉汁混合到一起,要趁热快吃。

这里的便宜三明治绝对可以称得上物美价廉,尤其是法国面包烤香肠,4块钱左右,胃口小的还得打包半个带回去。不知道如果小柯仍然留在新奥尔良的话,某个礼拜天清早会不会与读到这篇文章的你在Ponola St. Café 邂逅?

如果你象小柯一样自诩为“鸡蛋终结者”这样的狂爱鸡蛋,那么就一定不要错过法国区里一家装饰简单24小时营业的小馆:Clover Grill,900 Bourbon Street, (504) 598-1010。这里的煎蛋饼据说是全城最棒的,其秘诀在于蛋液中加入黄油,搅拌均匀后才煎。如此加料出来的煎蛋饼不仅颜色淡黄宜人,口感更是又香又嫩,要是再配上熔化后拖出长丝来的奶酪与咸鲜小香肠,最后的成果真可以叫绝得没治了。

如果早餐不想吃这些油腻的美国早点而渴望简单清爽的英国口味,那么花园区的“青鸟咖啡”(Bluebird’s Café, 3625 Prytania Street, 504- 895-7166)就是最佳选择。“青鸟”的早餐薄饼(pancake)最为著名,小柯建议尝试一下荞麦面(buckwheat)薄饼,搭配新鲜草莓、蓝莓或者香蕉樱桃,浇上糖浆,点缀一小勺鲜奶油,这个清晨就真正找到幸福的青鸟了。要是连早餐薄饼都不想吃,那么就去1418 Magazine St上的Surray’s Juice Bar(504-524-3828)去喝各式各样的新鲜榨果汁吧,保证给你一个最清爽的上午。

除了这些早午餐小馆,咖啡小馆也别忘了逛,尤其是法国区的Café Du Monde (800 Decatur Street, 504- 525-4544),24小时营业。这家除了法式咖啡牛奶(Café Au Lait)香浓,拿铁咖啡(Café Latte)泡沫细腻之外,一定要吃的是这里特别的法国甜点Beignet(发音“般尼耶特”)。这种正方形用热油深炸的面食虽然据说是甜甜圈的一种,可口感更象中国的油条。不过Beignets上面还要撒上厚厚的糖粉,吃的时候先在盘子里轻轻磕一磕,去除多余的糖粉,然后屏气凝神慢慢品位。咬的时候不要妄想边吃边说,小心糖粉被吸进喉咙里呛到。这家已经经营超过百年的老店是新奥尔良的象征之一,可以说如果没来这里喝咖啡吃Beignets就不算来过新奥尔良。

Cafe Du Monde

 

说了这么多早午餐小馆,可是美国饭毕竟不是只有早点与咖啡,汉堡炸鸡的确是重要的组成部分。要想吃到真正美味的美国汉堡,在新奥尔良一定不能错过的是这家Port of Call (838 Esplanade Avenue, 504- 523-0120)。在这里汉堡不是点完菜单上的一种就等着侍者端上来吃,而要自己告诉人家里面的肉要烤到什么程度:熟还是中间带血,就如同吃牛排一样。汉堡里肉上“穿的衣服”也不仅仅就是生菜、番茄那么简单,还可以选择炒洋葱与炖蘑菇,调料除了番茄酱还可以加美奶滋、黄色芥末、蜂蜜芥末、烧烤酱、辣酱等等。就是这么一个小小的汉堡,放了心思进去也可以从垃圾变精品。

如果吃饭的时候正好赶上体育赛事,那么小柯推荐去上城的Cooter Brown’s,509 S. Carrollton Avenue,504- 866-9104。这家进去就先被环绕厅堂的巨大闭路电视所震撼,大厅一边是个设施超级齐全的酒吧,各国啤酒在这里应有尽有。酒吧旁边是生蚝吧,就是不吃饭,与哥们儿来这里叫上半打生蚝喝瓶啤酒看体育赛事也是人生一大快事。吃生蚝最好配以咸饼干、新鲜柠檬汁与鸡尾酒酱。软软嫩嫩微灰色的一块肉轻轻挑出来在咸饼干上躺好,上面抹以辛辣的鸡尾酒酱,轻点几滴鲜柠檬汁,一口全吞下去,又是鲜美又是爽快。Cooter Brown’s生蚝吧里的咸饼干与鸡尾酒酱都是自助,尤其是自调鸡尾酒酱,第一次保证新鲜有趣。

除了生蚝,Cooter Brown’s的汉堡与三明治也都顶呱呱,不信的话看他们墙上巨大的菜单就知道了:有一个汉堡美味到“吃完打娘”! 这样还不算,下面是一个据称更美味的,“吃完打姥姥”!不管真的假的,欣赏这幽默又可爱的菜单时别忘了观察厨房里烤汉堡厨师的单人舞蹈。烟熏火燎中这位大厨忙得健步如飞,一边翻动明火上的汉堡肉,一边把香肠送入烤箱去烤,同时一边挥动大笊篱拼命炸薯条,一边又分开十几个圆面包准备接烤好的汉堡大肉。别看忙,人多压力大,可人家大厨就是步伐稳健毫不错乱,那管一干食客看得目瞪口呆还是赞叹连连。

小柯喜欢去这样的美国小馆,未必精致,却一定温馨、温暖、热情。这才是我所热爱的新奥尔良。


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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
June 21st, 2006
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