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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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两万里逃难记(30)——重返新奥尔良(下)


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2005年10月11日

              

第二日一早,小柯和大伟先去姨妈家的房子拍照纪录损失情况,然后驱车围着我们的街区转了几圈,察看朋友家的状况。后院池塘里表弟鸥翔的金鱼全都死了,那两只神龙见首不见尾的乌龟也不知道活下来没有。附近大部分房子都完好,没有房门破损,只是墙上都留下国民自卫队用红漆标出的无人记号和日期。一路上枯黄的树枝树杈布满地面,有人回来的家门口一户一个废弃的冰箱。开车向东北往市中心的方向走,小柯一个朋友家不幸处在低洼地带,被水淹了有三、四英尺,东西全部毁掉。South Clariborne街中心停放的汽车身上的水印高达车顶。接近市区后Super Dome斑驳的圆顶远远出现在眼前,这个曾经银光闪闪在阳光下奕奕生辉的大体育馆,这个出现在建筑系教科书上被新奥尔良人视为城市骄傲之一的标志性建筑,这个在飓风中庇护了无数市民的避风港,此刻是如此脆弱、沧桑。

      

损伤较轻的uptown街区

 

朋友家附近损失严重的街区

 

洪水过后的房间

 

校园里的水线

 

损失惨重的South Claiborne街和Super Dome体育馆

         

 

最繁华的法国区(French Quarter)虽然经受重创,但损失不大,很多店铺甚至已恢复营业。波旁街(Bourbon Street)上的脱衣舞店估计是第一个恢复营业的,门口的大标语和美女热情的招徕顾客。很多酒吧门口堆了有一人多高的垃圾,悬挂在西班牙雕花栏杆外的茂密花草此刻也都变了颜色,枯黄干涸的叶片诉说着遭受的蹂躏和被遗弃的苦痛。再向法国区深处走,波旁街同性恋区的一家酒吧竟然旌旗招展,五颜六色的彩色气球欢迎着陆续回家的新奥尔良市民。门口震天响的Cajun音乐此刻也有了多重意义:新奥尔良的精神不死,Big Easy的传统终要延承下去,哪怕沧海桑田。

        

枯死的植物诉说着往日的繁华

 

曾经歌舞升平的Bourbon Street

 

Welcome Home

    

 车子在整个法国区绕了一圈,来到和Canal Street交界的Harrah’s赌场面前。救世军(Salvation Army)的志愿者在向过往的人发放免费食物。附近街边停了无数大个的清洁车,垃圾车,甚至清理废枝废家具的铲土车。再向北走到法国区北边的Marine,去看电视新闻里整个泡在水里的Frenchman Street街牌。小柯最喜欢的爵士乐酒吧,Spotted Cat,门口一片残破。所有的沙发家具都仍了出来,估计是淹没了一楼。

遍布整个城市的清洁车

 

斑点猫酒吧

           

转完了,车子沿St. Charles大街回家。那些美丽的豪宅损失都不大,路边的百年老橡树却有不少经不过飓风袭击,倒的倒,歪的歪。有些地段的大树已经被清理过了,死去的巨大枝干被移走 ,林荫大道的林荫就变得断断续续。到家前看到街区里跑着三只流浪狗,不知道这些小家伙们是如何生存下来的。姨妈家门口来了一只可爱的小猫,看上去也就七、八个月大,看到我们喵喵叫着躺倒和人撒娇,向我们要吃的。开了一瓶罐头给她,小柯想到我们走后不知道有谁会照顾她,心里很悲伤。

           

橡树

 

饥饿的流浪猫

 

最后一天,听邻居说水已经能用了,而且闻起来确实有很大的氯气味道,水源紧张的问题终于得到解决。不过红十字会已经在城市各个地段建立了援助中心,发放免费的水,罐头食品和一些清洁用具,即使没有干净水的地区人们也能够得到补给。

          

上午房东公司打电话来,说城市已经宣布可以重新居住,如果房子没有大损坏的话,就要开始收房租了。小柯和大伟昨天已经搬了一部分重要东西去姨妈的房子,就是预防房东催房租,没想到这么快担心就变成事实了。在这种情况下,我们决定干脆把所有的东西都搬走退房算了。不确定什么时候才能回新奥尔良常住,不知道究竟有多少人还决定回去,姨妈的房子更无法预测明年能否以合适的价格租出去,不如就此租姨妈的房子,双方都减少风险。我们总算幸运,还有姨妈的房子可以放置东西。很多朋友、同学却是把所有的家当都留在租用的房子里的,当房东都开始催房租以后,他们该怎么办?

           

一天的时间很快就在繁重的体力劳动中度过。两个人也许是超潜力发挥吧,竟然把所有的东西在一日之内搬完了!晚上直接睡在地板上的床垫,小柯望着天花板发呆:Katrina不知道改变了多少人的命运?我们的未来,不知道要走向哪一个方向?这个我曾经热爱的城市,究竟能不能从废墟中崛起?

            

黑暗中小柯又想起晚上去附近唯一一家营业的餐馆吃饭的情景。那是家卖典型美国汉堡三明治的餐厅,以前小柯和大伟曾经去它的生蚝吧吃过生蚝。生蚝吧旁边就是酒吧吧台,各种各样的德国啤酒是其特色。以前每到晚上有球赛的时候,这家店都要宾客盈门,烤汉堡热狗的厨房里几个厨师忙得上气不接下气,人们排队成龙。今晚的情形仿佛有大比赛进行,似乎上城所有的回来察看灾情的人都来这里吃饭了一样。唯一不同的是人们不再看环绕餐馆一圈的电视屏幕,而是相互问候,每个人都有一个和逃难相关的故事可以讲述。厨房的菜单被删减了很多,只有几种汉堡和三明治出售,价格也略微上调了几毛钱。柜台后面只有两个人在服务:一名年轻的厨师,脚步如飞,一边炸着薯条,在BBQ炉上明火烤着牛肉饼,一边往烤箱里放蘑菇片和奶酪,同时又在长条案板上一气摆下十几个微烤的汉堡圆面包,双手并用的向里面加入生菜、番茄和洋葱片;另一名留着大胡子的老头负责接单收钱,他面前放着一个巨大的透明塑料桶,上面贴着片纸,写着“我们磨破屁股在为大家服务,请一定给小费”。想到这,小柯不禁在静默中微笑起来,是的,这就是希望了,这就是新奥尔良复兴的依托了。时光变迁,总有人离开,有人初到,只要一个城市延承的精神不死,只要有这些在夹缝中继续生存繁荣的新奥尔良人,这个美丽的城市就不会消亡。也许依旧贫穷,也许依旧要挣扎,可那古老的爵士曲调一定会继续吟唱下去。

             

音乐不死,美味依旧。《飘》中郝斯嘉仿佛又在说:“明天,明天一切都会好起来的。” 对,这就是南方的精神吧,哪怕脚步沉重,这原始的动力永远会推动这个城市继续呼吸,继续生存,继续繁荣。


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

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December 20th, 2007
Posted by aixiaoke | 永远的新奥尔良, 两万里逃难记 | no comments

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