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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(三)


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三.        亚洲美味

 

除了日本料理,新奥尔良还有两家越南餐馆小柯十分推崇。

一家叫做Frosty’s Café (3400 Cleary Ave., Metairie,888-9600)。在Veteran这条大路与Cleary Ave不起眼的交口里一个非常不起眼的小门脸,进去后也就巴掌大点的地方,没几张桌子。高大的玻璃柜台后面是忙碌得马不停蹄的一对小夫妻,小小的灶台也在这柜台后面,并没有单独的厨房。

就是这样一家最不起眼的小店,却拥有全城最美味可口的珍珠奶茶。这里的珍珠奶茶种类繁多,各种想不到的珍奇水果都可以被新鲜水灵的请进搅拌机里,与不知道什么秘方比例的牛奶冰块被打成最黏稠美味的水果珍珠奶茶。不仅如此,顾客还可以自主挑选水果的组合,什么芒果加水蜜桃,草莓加各式浆果,或者种种香瓜橘子之类混在一起。而小柯最喜欢的,是满满一杯香浓又清新的牛油果奶茶,里面一定要加上黑色的果胶珍珠粒。4块钱左右一大杯,可以顶半顿饭了。

除了奶茶,这里的越南小菜也做得十分好味,不管是米饭配菜还是越南牛肉面,分量是稍微少了点,但是味道绝对不差。不过说到越南面,小柯有一个绝佳的去处,甚至有一阵子几乎每隔两个礼拜就要去海吃一碗。

这一家叫做Tan Dinh,2004 Belle Chasse Highway, Gretna, (504) 361-8008,可以说是艾小柯吃过最美味的越南餐馆。一进门是辆老式的越南人力黄包车,菜单都放在这黄包车里,让人小惊喜一下。飓风前的菜单是图文并茂,就是不会点越南菜的人看图说话也点个八九不离十。飓风后的临时菜单变成薄薄的一页小蓝纸,东西少了很多,价格也普遍上涨了五毛到一圆。不过呢,好消息是虽然旧菜单的价格过时了,但仍然可以使用。我每次去都直接索要以前的带图片菜单,点起来方便很多。

小柯在这里的传统节目是先来半份烤鹌鹑作为头盘。别看是半份,也有三只剖为两半的去头鹌鹑,烤得香酥冒油,还略带一丝甜味,配上特别的柠檬汁酱,美味得不得了。一般与三五友人到这里吃饭,这个烤鹌鹑总是必点的开胃菜。

烤鹌鹑之后是传统菜单上的第50号,一大海碗香辣牛肉面。当然,越南菜里面条都是米粉制作的,与云南米线类似,十分筋道。香来自于面条里的牛肉老汤,配上炖到稀烂的胡萝卜,再佐以大量的酥烂牛肉牛筋;辣是因为汤放了大量香料和一点点越南红色辣酱,初尝并不辣得惊艳,可越吃越让人汗流浃背,不惯吃辣的吃到涕泪皆流也说不定。如果还觉得不够味,那么可以再把随面同来的墨西哥绿色小尖椒一股脑仍进去,撕两片碧绿的花椒叶子,抓一把新鲜的白豆芽,花花绿绿称着红红的一大海碗,就使劲吃吧。

6块钱这一大碗,一块又一大块的牛肉牛筋,保管最大肚子的食客也能吃个心满意足。吃完了面,汤也别放弃,趁热喝他个两大口,或者花一块钱买个新鲜的法式硬壳烤面包,一块块撕碎了投进面汤里蘸着吃。虽然这与西安的牛肉泡馍不尽相同,却总让我想起来那些年在西北与亲人度过的美好时光。

除了越南菜,小柯还喜欢吃印度美食。

当然,我对印度的了解几乎是皮毛的皮毛,对印度食品更是刘姥姥进大观园——什么都新鲜。所以去一家能够让我各有涉猎的自助餐式印度餐厅应该是初食者的最佳选择。于是位于上城繁华地带的这一家“涅磐” Nirvana Indian Cuisine (4308 Magazine Street, 504-894-9797) 就成了艾小柯体验印度风情的最佳去处。

“涅磐”的好处在于它中午提供便宜实惠的自助午餐,晚上就变成一流的印度餐厅,环境古朴迷离充满了异国情调,朋友小聚情侣约会都是个好去处。涅磐的菜单里我最喜欢的是各种各样的印度香烤饼,尤其是加了奶酪或者水果的味道最为芬芳。除此之外,这里的各式咖喱也比较著名,喜欢吃辣的可以特意叮嘱厨房做成超级辛辣的口味,小柯尤其推荐Tandoori咖喱系列。Tandoori指在陶罐子里烹饪肉食的一种方法。烹调的时候肉类要被祛除所有脂肪,在陶罐子里用调料腌制24小时,之后用牧豆树炭火加热,直到肉质变作酥软多汁。如此的烹饪方式不仅保证了味道全部进入肉中,同时也是非常健康的一种吃法:据餐厅主人Keswani说,比如这道叫做“Tikka Masala”的陶罐鸡肉,配以番茄黄油咖喱酱,具有促进血液循环的功效。至于印度菜是否因为其浓郁的异国情调,餐厅的幽暗氛围而号称可以调情乱性,这就要由各位食客去亲自实践啦。

除了印度菜,泰国菜也以其独特的香味和金碧辉煌的热带风情吸引了相当多的眼球与舌头。新奥尔良许多本地报纸都推荐上城的Basil Leaf (1438 S. Carrollton,504-862-9001),但据小柯的几位朋友反映,性价比并不太高。小柯在这里推荐法国区的一家泰国餐馆Siam Café (435 Esplanade Avenue, 504- 949-1750)。倒不是说这家的菜色味道跟别家比有多么出众,而是因为这一家的环境实在有趣。除了普通的餐厅方桌,Siam Café 里还有昏暗暧昧的角落,放一张矮矮的小木桌,旁边是缀着金色亮片的大靠垫。客人都席地而坐,闻着浓重的泰国香熏,在摇曳的烛光中恍惚端详着彼此的容颜,这个时候吃什么其实都不重要,最重要的是这个情调与气氛。吃完了,直接上二楼,上面是一家叫做“龙穴(Dragon’s Den)的沙龙酒吧,风格情调与楼下差不多。一到周末这里就成为艺术青年们的聚集地,在酒吧中间的空地上举办诗歌朗诵讨论会,偶尔也有人不念诗,而是上去登台献唱。握一瓶啤酒,坐在地上的软垫子堆里听听年轻的愤慨的或是颓废的声音,总让我幻想这里是大革命时期巴黎的政治沙龙,不管是希望或者震荡,总有未来从这里孕育。

可惜的是,目前为止,Siam Café 与Dragon’s Den飓风后都尚未营业。为了补偿大家白白听我说了半天书却不能亲自去实践的遗憾,最后再推荐一家评级颇高的泰国餐馆:Siamese,6601 Veterans Memorial Blvd.,Metairie, 504-454-8752,其特色是泰国汤与沙拉。

韩国小菜和烧烤在亚洲是非常受人欢迎的,不过新奥尔良地区只有一家比较地道的韩国餐馆:Korea House,3547 18th Street , Metairie, (504) 888-0654。特色是各式韩国烧烤。


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June 14th, 2006
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