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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(二)


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二.        爱上日本菜

 

新奥尔良的亚洲人比例并不高,亚洲餐馆数量也不算太多,风味更是比较单一。中餐因为是我们的看家饭,等到最后再写。这里就说说新奥尔良比较地道的几家其他亚洲风味餐馆。

说到亚洲口味,在美国除了中餐,头脑中立刻想到的一定是日餐。没办法,日本从二战结束以后就与美国关系深厚,食物本身又追求精致完美,美国人一追求遥远东方的异国情调,立刻就假模假样的跑去吃日餐,也不管是不是会用筷子,知不知道日餐除了寿司别的可吃的东西还有很多。

当然,我这厢把美国人揶揄了一顿也纯属开玩笑,其实自己吃起日本料理来也是个二道贩子,完全凭感觉。不过因为日餐不仅味道可口,更是超级健康低热量,所以天天把减肥挂在嘴边又不肯少吃一口的我就经常拣这健康所在去。吃来吃去,次数多了,也吃出点点心得。

别看这寿司哪家店做出来样子都差不多,甚至自己在家弄齐了家伙事也可以做几个卷卷糊弄一下,好的师傅做出来的就是比差的要美味数十倍。切成六片的寿司卷与两个一份的鱼生寿司在主料上各家都差不多,区别无非在于鱼生的新鲜程度;但是这个包寿司米饭的薄厚程度差别就大了。手艺不好的师傅为了寿司成型,或者一般的亚洲自助餐馆里从利润着想,都在寿司卷外面包上厚厚的米饭,有些鱼生寿司下面的米饭甚至比鱼生还大。如此做的结果是破坏了寿司里料与米饭的完美比例,米饭的酸甜压住了鱼生或者蔬菜的清新,这样的寿司在我吃来就是完全失败的。当然好师傅的刀工厉害也能体现在寿司里面菜蔬的制作上。技艺贤淑的师傅在切黄瓜丝的时候不会先切薄片再切丝的,而是如同削苹果皮一般用刀削黄瓜,削出一大片长长又薄如纸的半透明黄瓜卷来再切成细丝。如此处理的黄瓜若有若无,与鱼生搭配得当衬托鱼的鲜味,却绝技不会喧宾夺主。

日本的食文化讲究完美,看看食品频道最著名的日本铁厨比赛节目就知道了。完美传承到吃法上,同样半点马虎不得。还说这寿司,吃的时候要蘸酱油和绿色芥末大家都知道,但并不是所有人都知道这个芥末与酱油是不应该混到一起去的。吃寿司讲究的是各种味觉的对比与融合,对比在于寿司的料、米,还有蘸的酱油,抹的芥末这些不同的味道是一道一道进入口中的,每一种滋味都有清晰的界限,每一种都应该被明显的感受出来;融合在于这些不同的滋味一个挨一个进入口中后,先被品,再被咀嚼而融合到一起,仿佛口中发生一场味觉的爆炸,由分到合,由异到同,好比人生中最完美的一场相遇。

说了这么多,虽然寿司是日本料理中非常重要的内容,但是日本菜除了寿司之外可吃好吃的实在是太多了。

先说说小柯最爱的一道菜:烤黄尾鱼脖子。日本烤鱼向来著名,小柯没去过日本,无缘得以品尝最最正宗地道的日本烤鱼,好在新奥尔良还有几家地道的日本餐馆,让我在异域也能尝到鲜味。鱼脖子指鱼头与鱼身相交接的部分,肉质最为柔软鲜嫩。烤鱼脖子要一直把刮了鱼鳞的鱼皮烤到焦脆,吃的时候连皮带肉夹一大块下来,蘸着酸咸的ponzu sauce,外焦里嫩的送进口中。最妙的是鱼皮与鱼肉之间薄薄的一层脂肪,香滑爽口,半点腥味都不带,在舌尖上一转一滑就溜进喉咙了。除了烤黄尾鱼脖子,还可以烤大马哈鱼,鳕鱼,秋刀鱼等等。小柯一向嘴大,从来都不喜欢又细腥味又重的秋刀鱼,吃来吃去还是黄尾鱼脖子烤出来最美味。坐落在新奥尔良老城左侧的商业城Metairie,1521 N. Causeway Blvd. 上的小东京餐馆(504-831-6788)虽然并非将日餐做得多么出色,但是这家的烤黄尾鱼脖子却真叫经济实惠。一般的餐馆这道菜只给一块鱼脖子,而这家小东京是一块半的量,烤得稍微有些过却也不太影响鱼的整体味道。点这道菜时一定记得要在点饮料的时候就下单子,虽然菜单上烤黄尾鱼脖子被叫做头盘,但是因为每次现烤用时要超过20分钟,而寿司等其余凉菜速度都很快,几乎每次都变成最后一盘大餐,所以一定要提前先让厨房烤上才来得及。

既然小柯超级爱吃烤鱼脖子,那么日式铁板系列也肯定是我的心爱,尤其是铁板鱿鱼。说起来这饭店里的铁板鱿鱼真和大学时候天津街头处处叫卖的街头铁板鱿鱼区别不大,就是餐馆里的鱿鱼个头更大些,肉也肥厚,调料是日式铁板烧料。大学的时候就爱吃这街头飘香的铁板鱿鱼了,现在自然更是心仪。当然,在餐馆里吃自然要比街头精致复杂一些,最好叫一碗寿司米饭佐餐,米饭上可以浇上少许酱油,吃的时候还可以配芥末,有点自助寿司的意思。

很多中国人都喜欢日本的鳗鱼饭,小柯虽然也非常钟爱,却不推荐大家在餐馆里点,除非那家餐馆真的以新鲜鳗鱼闻名。一般日餐馆里的鳗鱼饭都不是用的新鲜烤鳗鱼,而是烤好的冷冻鳗鱼,客人点了就立即去微波炉里解冻,切好放在白米饭上,再浇上超市里随处可见的鳗鱼汁,就行了。如此简单的做法,不如就在自家厨房操练,成本上可要便宜太多。

日本饭除了有名的鱼生与米饭类料理,还有著名的面。小柯对日本面,尤其是拉面的向往完全来自于那些缠绵的偶像日剧。日剧里男女主角总爱到街边的拉面馆去吃热腾腾的拉面,而且一部剧里要吃个不下五六七八回。这日本拉面,究竟有什么样的魔力让人流连忘返?

可惜正宗的日本拉面小柯至今没有吃着,现在也就处于刚刚明白那些乌东、Ramen还有Soba荞麦面是什么区别的程度。这些面里,我最欣赏简单清凉的荞麦面:Soba。夏天吃荞麦面是最合适的,面煮熟过凉水,之后拌上特制的soba sauce,随意放些绿芥末进去,面上再配以葱花和切成细丝的烤海带皮,一餐简单的午饭就齐活了。Soba sauce的清凉与芥末的火辣融合在一起,葱花与海带皮添入细微的香气,口中的夏天就这样随着荞麦面一根一根下肚变得清爽起来,清爽得过瘾,清爽得顺畅。

至于日本的油炸垃圾食品Tempura我就不多说了,其原理跟美国南方海鲜裹了面包屑油炸差不多,不过里面的内容还有蔬菜,算是比较健康的油炸垃圾食品。所有新奥尔良的美味日餐馆,小柯推荐三家。

第一家是小柯吃过最地道、最美味、最正宗的日本餐馆。不过因为小柯本来也没见过什么世面,这连用三个“最”字是否恰当的风险就要由诸位食客自己承担了。但是小柯可以负责任的说,这一家绝对是我心目中的第一名,甚至加州旧金山日本城中的日餐馆也比不过这家美味。这家叫做Horinoya, 920 Poydras St., (504) 561-8914。小小一家店,门脸小招牌也不大明显,可城中有名的律师医生都喜欢去这儿,就连市长大人也常常带着保镖频频光顾呢。最近上映的青春偶像Linsey Lohan的新电影《我的幸运(Just My Luck)》里面那个日餐馆的片断也是在这里拍摄的。名头响,质量好,价格自然不菲,可以说算全城最贵的几家日餐馆之一,不过偶尔要去小快朵颐一番也算能承受得起。Horinoya同时也是小柯知道的全城唯一设有雅间的餐馆。两间最多容纳七人的塌塌米雅间,用竹帘与大厅分隔,食客进门要拖鞋,完全与在日本本土相似。Linsey Lohan,Freddie Prinze Jr.还有铁厨节目中那个法国菜红衣铁厨Hiroyuki Sakai来这里就餐的时候都加付了20大圆的雅间费进雅间享受正宗塌塌米。

Horinoya 大堂

第二家是位于圣查尔斯大道上的Miyako (1403 St. Charles Ave.,504-410-9997),价格中等小贵,菜的味道不错。之所以推荐这家,是因为他家有铁板烧,就是众人围绕一个类似“回”字三边的铁板团坐,看厨师现场边烹饪边表演刀叉花活。要是图便宜,上城有一家Hana (8116 Hampson Street,504-865-1634)也被评为新奥尔良十大最佳日餐馆之一,顾客大都是学生,的确实惠。不过Hana的味道小柯总是不太感冒,实在是因为他家寿司的米饭从来都如城墙般厚实,不是我偏好的风格。

最后一家叫做Sake Café, 处于著名的Magazine与Louisiana街的交口:2830 Magazine St., (504) 894-0033。这里基本属于美国与日本风味的结合,除了传统的日本寿司、面、饭等,还有一些特别的主菜,比如小柯非常喜欢的花生虾。六只剥皮去泥线的熟虾放一圈在雪白的圆瓷盘里,上面浇上淡黄的花生酱与绿芥末调成的浆汁,盘子周围摆放几多鲜花作为装饰,不仅嘴过瘾,连眼睛也一并为这美丽的一餐叫好。整家店的装潢都十分现代优雅,尤其是天花板上掉落下来的玻璃彩饰灯,再配上小方桌上的精致蜡烛,可以说这是小柯去过的所有日餐馆里最浪漫多姿的一个。


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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
June 14th, 2006
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