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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(三)


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三.        亚洲美味

 

除了日本料理,新奥尔良还有两家越南餐馆小柯十分推崇。

一家叫做Frosty’s Café (3400 Cleary Ave., Metairie,888-9600)。在Veteran这条大路与Cleary Ave不起眼的交口里一个非常不起眼的小门脸,进去后也就巴掌大点的地方,没几张桌子。高大的玻璃柜台后面是忙碌得马不停蹄的一对小夫妻,小小的灶台也在这柜台后面,并没有单独的厨房。

就是这样一家最不起眼的小店,却拥有全城最美味可口的珍珠奶茶。这里的珍珠奶茶种类繁多,各种想不到的珍奇水果都可以被新鲜水灵的请进搅拌机里,与不知道什么秘方比例的牛奶冰块被打成最黏稠美味的水果珍珠奶茶。不仅如此,顾客还可以自主挑选水果的组合,什么芒果加水蜜桃,草莓加各式浆果,或者种种香瓜橘子之类混在一起。而小柯最喜欢的,是满满一杯香浓又清新的牛油果奶茶,里面一定要加上黑色的果胶珍珠粒。4块钱左右一大杯,可以顶半顿饭了。

除了奶茶,这里的越南小菜也做得十分好味,不管是米饭配菜还是越南牛肉面,分量是稍微少了点,但是味道绝对不差。不过说到越南面,小柯有一个绝佳的去处,甚至有一阵子几乎每隔两个礼拜就要去海吃一碗。

这一家叫做Tan Dinh,2004 Belle Chasse Highway, Gretna, (504) 361-8008,可以说是艾小柯吃过最美味的越南餐馆。一进门是辆老式的越南人力黄包车,菜单都放在这黄包车里,让人小惊喜一下。飓风前的菜单是图文并茂,就是不会点越南菜的人看图说话也点个八九不离十。飓风后的临时菜单变成薄薄的一页小蓝纸,东西少了很多,价格也普遍上涨了五毛到一圆。不过呢,好消息是虽然旧菜单的价格过时了,但仍然可以使用。我每次去都直接索要以前的带图片菜单,点起来方便很多。

小柯在这里的传统节目是先来半份烤鹌鹑作为头盘。别看是半份,也有三只剖为两半的去头鹌鹑,烤得香酥冒油,还略带一丝甜味,配上特别的柠檬汁酱,美味得不得了。一般与三五友人到这里吃饭,这个烤鹌鹑总是必点的开胃菜。

烤鹌鹑之后是传统菜单上的第50号,一大海碗香辣牛肉面。当然,越南菜里面条都是米粉制作的,与云南米线类似,十分筋道。香来自于面条里的牛肉老汤,配上炖到稀烂的胡萝卜,再佐以大量的酥烂牛肉牛筋;辣是因为汤放了大量香料和一点点越南红色辣酱,初尝并不辣得惊艳,可越吃越让人汗流浃背,不惯吃辣的吃到涕泪皆流也说不定。如果还觉得不够味,那么可以再把随面同来的墨西哥绿色小尖椒一股脑仍进去,撕两片碧绿的花椒叶子,抓一把新鲜的白豆芽,花花绿绿称着红红的一大海碗,就使劲吃吧。

6块钱这一大碗,一块又一大块的牛肉牛筋,保管最大肚子的食客也能吃个心满意足。吃完了面,汤也别放弃,趁热喝他个两大口,或者花一块钱买个新鲜的法式硬壳烤面包,一块块撕碎了投进面汤里蘸着吃。虽然这与西安的牛肉泡馍不尽相同,却总让我想起来那些年在西北与亲人度过的美好时光。

除了越南菜,小柯还喜欢吃印度美食。

当然,我对印度的了解几乎是皮毛的皮毛,对印度食品更是刘姥姥进大观园——什么都新鲜。所以去一家能够让我各有涉猎的自助餐式印度餐厅应该是初食者的最佳选择。于是位于上城繁华地带的这一家“涅磐” Nirvana Indian Cuisine (4308 Magazine Street, 504-894-9797) 就成了艾小柯体验印度风情的最佳去处。

“涅磐”的好处在于它中午提供便宜实惠的自助午餐,晚上就变成一流的印度餐厅,环境古朴迷离充满了异国情调,朋友小聚情侣约会都是个好去处。涅磐的菜单里我最喜欢的是各种各样的印度香烤饼,尤其是加了奶酪或者水果的味道最为芬芳。除此之外,这里的各式咖喱也比较著名,喜欢吃辣的可以特意叮嘱厨房做成超级辛辣的口味,小柯尤其推荐Tandoori咖喱系列。Tandoori指在陶罐子里烹饪肉食的一种方法。烹调的时候肉类要被祛除所有脂肪,在陶罐子里用调料腌制24小时,之后用牧豆树炭火加热,直到肉质变作酥软多汁。如此的烹饪方式不仅保证了味道全部进入肉中,同时也是非常健康的一种吃法:据餐厅主人Keswani说,比如这道叫做“Tikka Masala”的陶罐鸡肉,配以番茄黄油咖喱酱,具有促进血液循环的功效。至于印度菜是否因为其浓郁的异国情调,餐厅的幽暗氛围而号称可以调情乱性,这就要由各位食客去亲自实践啦。

除了印度菜,泰国菜也以其独特的香味和金碧辉煌的热带风情吸引了相当多的眼球与舌头。新奥尔良许多本地报纸都推荐上城的Basil Leaf (1438 S. Carrollton,504-862-9001),但据小柯的几位朋友反映,性价比并不太高。小柯在这里推荐法国区的一家泰国餐馆Siam Café (435 Esplanade Avenue, 504- 949-1750)。倒不是说这家的菜色味道跟别家比有多么出众,而是因为这一家的环境实在有趣。除了普通的餐厅方桌,Siam Café 里还有昏暗暧昧的角落,放一张矮矮的小木桌,旁边是缀着金色亮片的大靠垫。客人都席地而坐,闻着浓重的泰国香熏,在摇曳的烛光中恍惚端详着彼此的容颜,这个时候吃什么其实都不重要,最重要的是这个情调与气氛。吃完了,直接上二楼,上面是一家叫做“龙穴(Dragon’s Den)的沙龙酒吧,风格情调与楼下差不多。一到周末这里就成为艺术青年们的聚集地,在酒吧中间的空地上举办诗歌朗诵讨论会,偶尔也有人不念诗,而是上去登台献唱。握一瓶啤酒,坐在地上的软垫子堆里听听年轻的愤慨的或是颓废的声音,总让我幻想这里是大革命时期巴黎的政治沙龙,不管是希望或者震荡,总有未来从这里孕育。

可惜的是,目前为止,Siam Café 与Dragon’s Den飓风后都尚未营业。为了补偿大家白白听我说了半天书却不能亲自去实践的遗憾,最后再推荐一家评级颇高的泰国餐馆:Siamese,6601 Veterans Memorial Blvd.,Metairie, 504-454-8752,其特色是泰国汤与沙拉。

韩国小菜和烧烤在亚洲是非常受人欢迎的,不过新奥尔良地区只有一家比较地道的韩国餐馆:Korea House,3547 18th Street , Metairie, (504) 888-0654。特色是各式韩国烧烤。


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June 14th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(二)


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二.        爱上日本菜

 

新奥尔良的亚洲人比例并不高,亚洲餐馆数量也不算太多,风味更是比较单一。中餐因为是我们的看家饭,等到最后再写。这里就说说新奥尔良比较地道的几家其他亚洲风味餐馆。

说到亚洲口味,在美国除了中餐,头脑中立刻想到的一定是日餐。没办法,日本从二战结束以后就与美国关系深厚,食物本身又追求精致完美,美国人一追求遥远东方的异国情调,立刻就假模假样的跑去吃日餐,也不管是不是会用筷子,知不知道日餐除了寿司别的可吃的东西还有很多。

当然,我这厢把美国人揶揄了一顿也纯属开玩笑,其实自己吃起日本料理来也是个二道贩子,完全凭感觉。不过因为日餐不仅味道可口,更是超级健康低热量,所以天天把减肥挂在嘴边又不肯少吃一口的我就经常拣这健康所在去。吃来吃去,次数多了,也吃出点点心得。

别看这寿司哪家店做出来样子都差不多,甚至自己在家弄齐了家伙事也可以做几个卷卷糊弄一下,好的师傅做出来的就是比差的要美味数十倍。切成六片的寿司卷与两个一份的鱼生寿司在主料上各家都差不多,区别无非在于鱼生的新鲜程度;但是这个包寿司米饭的薄厚程度差别就大了。手艺不好的师傅为了寿司成型,或者一般的亚洲自助餐馆里从利润着想,都在寿司卷外面包上厚厚的米饭,有些鱼生寿司下面的米饭甚至比鱼生还大。如此做的结果是破坏了寿司里料与米饭的完美比例,米饭的酸甜压住了鱼生或者蔬菜的清新,这样的寿司在我吃来就是完全失败的。当然好师傅的刀工厉害也能体现在寿司里面菜蔬的制作上。技艺贤淑的师傅在切黄瓜丝的时候不会先切薄片再切丝的,而是如同削苹果皮一般用刀削黄瓜,削出一大片长长又薄如纸的半透明黄瓜卷来再切成细丝。如此处理的黄瓜若有若无,与鱼生搭配得当衬托鱼的鲜味,却绝技不会喧宾夺主。

日本的食文化讲究完美,看看食品频道最著名的日本铁厨比赛节目就知道了。完美传承到吃法上,同样半点马虎不得。还说这寿司,吃的时候要蘸酱油和绿色芥末大家都知道,但并不是所有人都知道这个芥末与酱油是不应该混到一起去的。吃寿司讲究的是各种味觉的对比与融合,对比在于寿司的料、米,还有蘸的酱油,抹的芥末这些不同的味道是一道一道进入口中的,每一种滋味都有清晰的界限,每一种都应该被明显的感受出来;融合在于这些不同的滋味一个挨一个进入口中后,先被品,再被咀嚼而融合到一起,仿佛口中发生一场味觉的爆炸,由分到合,由异到同,好比人生中最完美的一场相遇。

说了这么多,虽然寿司是日本料理中非常重要的内容,但是日本菜除了寿司之外可吃好吃的实在是太多了。

先说说小柯最爱的一道菜:烤黄尾鱼脖子。日本烤鱼向来著名,小柯没去过日本,无缘得以品尝最最正宗地道的日本烤鱼,好在新奥尔良还有几家地道的日本餐馆,让我在异域也能尝到鲜味。鱼脖子指鱼头与鱼身相交接的部分,肉质最为柔软鲜嫩。烤鱼脖子要一直把刮了鱼鳞的鱼皮烤到焦脆,吃的时候连皮带肉夹一大块下来,蘸着酸咸的ponzu sauce,外焦里嫩的送进口中。最妙的是鱼皮与鱼肉之间薄薄的一层脂肪,香滑爽口,半点腥味都不带,在舌尖上一转一滑就溜进喉咙了。除了烤黄尾鱼脖子,还可以烤大马哈鱼,鳕鱼,秋刀鱼等等。小柯一向嘴大,从来都不喜欢又细腥味又重的秋刀鱼,吃来吃去还是黄尾鱼脖子烤出来最美味。坐落在新奥尔良老城左侧的商业城Metairie,1521 N. Causeway Blvd. 上的小东京餐馆(504-831-6788)虽然并非将日餐做得多么出色,但是这家的烤黄尾鱼脖子却真叫经济实惠。一般的餐馆这道菜只给一块鱼脖子,而这家小东京是一块半的量,烤得稍微有些过却也不太影响鱼的整体味道。点这道菜时一定记得要在点饮料的时候就下单子,虽然菜单上烤黄尾鱼脖子被叫做头盘,但是因为每次现烤用时要超过20分钟,而寿司等其余凉菜速度都很快,几乎每次都变成最后一盘大餐,所以一定要提前先让厨房烤上才来得及。

既然小柯超级爱吃烤鱼脖子,那么日式铁板系列也肯定是我的心爱,尤其是铁板鱿鱼。说起来这饭店里的铁板鱿鱼真和大学时候天津街头处处叫卖的街头铁板鱿鱼区别不大,就是餐馆里的鱿鱼个头更大些,肉也肥厚,调料是日式铁板烧料。大学的时候就爱吃这街头飘香的铁板鱿鱼了,现在自然更是心仪。当然,在餐馆里吃自然要比街头精致复杂一些,最好叫一碗寿司米饭佐餐,米饭上可以浇上少许酱油,吃的时候还可以配芥末,有点自助寿司的意思。

很多中国人都喜欢日本的鳗鱼饭,小柯虽然也非常钟爱,却不推荐大家在餐馆里点,除非那家餐馆真的以新鲜鳗鱼闻名。一般日餐馆里的鳗鱼饭都不是用的新鲜烤鳗鱼,而是烤好的冷冻鳗鱼,客人点了就立即去微波炉里解冻,切好放在白米饭上,再浇上超市里随处可见的鳗鱼汁,就行了。如此简单的做法,不如就在自家厨房操练,成本上可要便宜太多。

日本饭除了有名的鱼生与米饭类料理,还有著名的面。小柯对日本面,尤其是拉面的向往完全来自于那些缠绵的偶像日剧。日剧里男女主角总爱到街边的拉面馆去吃热腾腾的拉面,而且一部剧里要吃个不下五六七八回。这日本拉面,究竟有什么样的魔力让人流连忘返?

可惜正宗的日本拉面小柯至今没有吃着,现在也就处于刚刚明白那些乌东、Ramen还有Soba荞麦面是什么区别的程度。这些面里,我最欣赏简单清凉的荞麦面:Soba。夏天吃荞麦面是最合适的,面煮熟过凉水,之后拌上特制的soba sauce,随意放些绿芥末进去,面上再配以葱花和切成细丝的烤海带皮,一餐简单的午饭就齐活了。Soba sauce的清凉与芥末的火辣融合在一起,葱花与海带皮添入细微的香气,口中的夏天就这样随着荞麦面一根一根下肚变得清爽起来,清爽得过瘾,清爽得顺畅。

至于日本的油炸垃圾食品Tempura我就不多说了,其原理跟美国南方海鲜裹了面包屑油炸差不多,不过里面的内容还有蔬菜,算是比较健康的油炸垃圾食品。所有新奥尔良的美味日餐馆,小柯推荐三家。

第一家是小柯吃过最地道、最美味、最正宗的日本餐馆。不过因为小柯本来也没见过什么世面,这连用三个“最”字是否恰当的风险就要由诸位食客自己承担了。但是小柯可以负责任的说,这一家绝对是我心目中的第一名,甚至加州旧金山日本城中的日餐馆也比不过这家美味。这家叫做Horinoya, 920 Poydras St., (504) 561-8914。小小一家店,门脸小招牌也不大明显,可城中有名的律师医生都喜欢去这儿,就连市长大人也常常带着保镖频频光顾呢。最近上映的青春偶像Linsey Lohan的新电影《我的幸运(Just My Luck)》里面那个日餐馆的片断也是在这里拍摄的。名头响,质量好,价格自然不菲,可以说算全城最贵的几家日餐馆之一,不过偶尔要去小快朵颐一番也算能承受得起。Horinoya同时也是小柯知道的全城唯一设有雅间的餐馆。两间最多容纳七人的塌塌米雅间,用竹帘与大厅分隔,食客进门要拖鞋,完全与在日本本土相似。Linsey Lohan,Freddie Prinze Jr.还有铁厨节目中那个法国菜红衣铁厨Hiroyuki Sakai来这里就餐的时候都加付了20大圆的雅间费进雅间享受正宗塌塌米。

Horinoya 大堂

第二家是位于圣查尔斯大道上的Miyako (1403 St. Charles Ave.,504-410-9997),价格中等小贵,菜的味道不错。之所以推荐这家,是因为他家有铁板烧,就是众人围绕一个类似“回”字三边的铁板团坐,看厨师现场边烹饪边表演刀叉花活。要是图便宜,上城有一家Hana (8116 Hampson Street,504-865-1634)也被评为新奥尔良十大最佳日餐馆之一,顾客大都是学生,的确实惠。不过Hana的味道小柯总是不太感冒,实在是因为他家寿司的米饭从来都如城墙般厚实,不是我偏好的风格。

最后一家叫做Sake Café, 处于著名的Magazine与Louisiana街的交口:2830 Magazine St., (504) 894-0033。这里基本属于美国与日本风味的结合,除了传统的日本寿司、面、饭等,还有一些特别的主菜,比如小柯非常喜欢的花生虾。六只剥皮去泥线的熟虾放一圈在雪白的圆瓷盘里,上面浇上淡黄的花生酱与绿芥末调成的浆汁,盘子周围摆放几多鲜花作为装饰,不仅嘴过瘾,连眼睛也一并为这美丽的一餐叫好。整家店的装潢都十分现代优雅,尤其是天花板上掉落下来的玻璃彩饰灯,再配上小方桌上的精致蜡烛,可以说这是小柯去过的所有日餐馆里最浪漫多姿的一个。


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June 14th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(一)


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一.地道又过瘾的Cajun与Creole食物

 

既然说的是新奥尔良,自然要从最最地道最体现这个城市历史文化的Cajun与Creole食物说起。

 

Cajun这个词中文几乎没有令人满意的翻译,根据google上的搜索,暂时按照音译称其为“卡真”吧。卡真人是从加拿大地区移居到美国路易斯安那州的法国人后裔。当时大概在18世纪中后期的时候,现今加拿大地域的英国与法国殖民者之间展开了一场争夺新法国殖民地的战争,许多法国人开始举家南迁,那些不知目的地的商船把他们载到哪,哪就是新的家。其中大部分法国阿卡地亚地区的殖民者们就展转流落到了今天的美国路易斯安那州,成为今天卡真人的鼻祖。

 

卡真人的语言直到今天仍然是带有浓重阿卡地亚口音的法语。卡真食物基本上就是法加农村家乡菜,烹饪简单,大量采用南方本地的原料与香料,比方说几乎每菜必放的洋葱、芹菜与青椒碎丁调味,比方说常见的路易斯安那小龙虾等,风格十分浓厚辛辣。米饭永远是卡真风味的主食,这与美国其余地区面包就大肉的风格比起来真真是异类。卡真食物中最著名的有两种:一是麻辣小龙虾,二是海鲜稀饭。

 

麻辣小龙虾是季节性的卡真食物。每年一到三四月份,路易斯安那州的小龙虾就成长得差不多了,开始区域迁徙。我认识一位朋友,每年到了这个时候最喜欢到小龙虾最丰盛的地方,带上几个塑料袋,拣这些傻冒小龙虾们的必经地守株待兔。这些傻家伙们,虽然生了一对吓唬人的大钳子,可脑子却非常愚笨,每年都走同样的路,结果被人白白拣起来成了腹中美味。当然,餐馆里大卖的麻辣小龙虾仍然还是大量专业捕捞来的。路易斯安那本地的小龙虾个头非常大,又厉害,据说出口到意大利把人家本地的小龙虾给残害得家破人亡。而餐馆里常见的个头小的家伙们很多是从中国进口的,成本低廉,做出来味道却也差不多少。

 

卡真的麻辣小龙虾可不是平时美国食物里意思意思的所谓辣法。南方的辣那绝对是真辣,不辣你个涕泪纵横绝不罢休。吃麻辣小龙虾的日子一般都是阳光普照,万里无云。一家人从餐馆买来论磅装的麻辣小龙虾,放在褐色纸袋里到公园或者湖边野餐;要么就是公司学校组织的麻辣小龙虾聚餐,请专门的烹饪公司来,架起一口大铁桶,把成磅成磅的活小龙虾和大包调料倒进去,边煮边搅。吃的时候用白色的塑料泡沫饭盒装满满一盒艳红,旁边放两个同样味道的麻辣小红皮土豆和一块甜死人的嫩玉米,麻辣之旅就开始了。

 

是不是南方人从吃小龙虾的方法上一下就能看出个究竟。不常吃的人单是剥这个龙虾皮就费不少劲,如果不小心把手划个小口,又麻又辣的汁液渗进伤口,那就是连嘴带手一起过瘾了。再看人家地道的南方人,先把小龙虾头揪下来,狠狠吸一口里面味道超级浓重的麻辣汁液与龙虾脑,然后去掉小龙虾身上的第一节壳,手指抓住下面的虾肉使劲一拽,整个虾肉就出来了,连泥线都没有就直接吃了。那个配小龙虾的红皮小土豆也是我的最爱,尤其是又咸又辣的土豆皮,每次吃都被辣得直叫受不了,可每次还是一边叫一边拼命吃。春夏来新奥尔良,麻辣小龙虾大餐是绝对不能错过的一道美味。上城的Shell Shucked Sea Food & Oyster Bar (1506 Carrollton Ave, 504-861-1003)是为数不多的几家提供全套麻辣小龙虾的餐馆。飓风前在中城有一家味道超正的海鲜小店,只提供外卖,每次都要排大长队等它家的麻辣小龙虾,可惜现在因为中城被毁损严重,仍未开业。不过不怕,这并不能阻挡真正想吃麻辣小龙虾的食客的坚定决心。只要开过密西西比河,在90号公路中部有一家海鲜市场,从早到晚出售新鲜的大虾,活蟹与各种冷冻鱼,季节对了还有活小龙虾,价格便宜选择又多,穷学生们要吃海鲜都到这里寻宝。海鲜市场旁边就有一家外卖麻辣小龙虾的餐饮小店,虽然味道不如中城那家,但也绝对不差。

 

除了麻辣小龙虾,海鲜稀饭也是人见人爱的好东西。其实这海鲜稀饭不是非常纯粹的卡真食物,它受到浓重的非洲以及印第安烹饪风格的影响。不同餐馆的海鲜稀饭稍有区别,但主要的成分是少不了的。一是虾与螃蟹腿,二是鸡腿肉。蔬菜一定要放入okra, 中文叫做秋葵的蔬菜。这个秋葵形状颜色如同青色尖椒,不过味道比较平淡,口感却特别滑爽,汁液有些黏稠,感觉功用与中餐里勾芡有些类似。近年来很多餐馆还推出了鸡肉稀饭,小龙虾稀饭,基本就是主料的区别,味道上与海鲜稀饭差别不大。中国游客,尤其是上海来的游客都很喜欢吃这海鲜稀饭,相必这道菜让他们依稀闻到了家乡的气味吧。

 

Creole这个词我原来常常与Cajun混掉,因为两个民族都是法国人的后裔。后来因为好吃才牢牢记住了他们的区别。Creole中文音译为“克里欧”人,是法国、西班牙的殖民与本地黑人结合的后裔,克里欧食物风格更混合了法国、西班牙、加勒比和非洲的影响。它虽然也如同卡真食物一样大量运用南方本地原料,但是风格更接近欧洲大陆的传统风味,味道上也没有那么辛辣。近年来卡真与克里欧食物之间的区别越来越模糊,很多著名的新奥尔良食品都是又可以称为卡真,又可以称为克里欧。比如说著名的红豆米饭。

 

这个红豆米饭可不是中国的红豆蒸米饭,而是将红豆煮熟成糊糊状,同时加入很多调味料,比如切成小块的火腿还有南方著名的生香肠,让它变得馥郁香浓。吃的时候把加了火腿香肠的红豆糊糊热热的浇在白米饭上,佐以玉米面蒸成的方块玉米蛋糕,又是鲜美又是香甜。这道菜是新奥尔良人每个礼拜一的保留节目,很多餐馆,就是一般不卖卡真或克里欧食物的,一到礼拜一菜单上就加上这道。时光可以斗转星移,人与物都可以忘记或者变迁,只有美味的传统,再加上南方的Zydeco音乐被固执的传承下来,百年不变。

 

除了礼拜一的红豆米饭,新奥尔良在周五也有特殊的传统食物:前面说过的海鲜稀饭和炸鲇鱼。克里欧以及传统的南方对海鲜的吃法按照中国人的理论来说其实真有点浪费。海鲜海鲜,吃的正是个鲜味。而以炸鲇鱼为代表的南方海鲜吃法是把鱼虾都沾上加了调料的面包粉,然后丢到油锅里深炸:既吃不出鲜味来又不健康。难怪南方最出产大胖子,天天吃油炸食品肯定是罪魁祸首。不过依据传统每周五吃一次的炸鲇鱼味道还算不错。厚厚的一块鱼背肉,表皮被炸得咸脆,里面的白肉却是鲜美的原味。吃的时候抹上白色的奶酪蘸酱,配上香葱炸玉米面球,确实好味。

 

传统的克里欧食物还包括海鲜炒饭,小龙虾浇饭,乌龟汤,炸生蚝,面包布丁,油炸绿西红柿等等。新奥尔良的传统卡真/克里欧餐馆大多与法国大餐结合在一起,最著名的是华盛顿街上的将军宫:Commander’s Palace, 1403 Washington Avenue, (504) 899-8221。这家贵到无以伦比的餐馆在全美餐馆排名中曾经连续数年排名第一,这价格也自然是数一数二的贵。一般说来,晚餐每人消费在100以上,还要穿晚礼服才能就餐。在新奥尔良品尝美食,吃到极至就要来这里,可惜我瘪瘪的荷包只能空空装下这个梦想,不能将它实现。就连他们周日推出的面向大众的早午饭,从头盘到甜点整个一套也要50块左右,仍然是不能实现的心中永远的痛。 

 

当然,新奥尔良的餐馆从来不是以贵而著名的。这里的人最讲究的一个词叫做Lagniappe,意思是“多余一点”。到餐馆吃饭,一个大盘子肯定是满满的,一定要让人吃个沟满壕平外加打包才叫待客之道。海鲜餐馆里同样一盘子海鲜,煮出来的就比炸的贵,因为要放满一盘,煮的要多放不少才能看上去同样多。如此热情好客的文化,自然衍生出很多又地道又美味又便宜的餐馆。小柯在这里推荐四家。

 

一家叫做Court of Two Sisters,坐落在613 Royal Street(504-581-5804),法国区的中心。这家餐馆,就是不来吃饭也值得专程来拜访一下。餐馆坐落的这幢房子建于1832>年,两位著名的姐妹叫做艾玛与博莎,她们从父亲手中继承了这处房产,从1886到1906年在这里开了个奇珍物品店。现在的餐馆,一走进去看到的是幽暗斑驳的墙壁,右手边装饰精美吊着大水晶灯的正式餐厅烛光摇曳,昏暗而暧昧的气氛似乎在述说着往日法国贵族们的奢靡精致。再向里走,带落地窗的长廊让人眼前豁然开朗,小方桌上铺着粉红格子与白色的桌布,侍者们笑意盈盈对你点头示意。这里的晚餐价格不菲,但是周日的早午餐自助餐却是最受欢迎的项目,价格在$25/人,前面介绍过的各种卡真与克里欧的美味从头盘到汤到甜点是一应俱全。不仅如此,周末新奥尔良的本地乐队:Al Bernard Big Three会在这里表演,最最正宗的新奥尔良爵士乐,水平非常高,我只去了一次就爱不释耳请回来了他们的CD,成为我对新奥尔良永远的美好回忆中的珍藏。如果觉得音乐无所谓,那么还可以坐到长廊里面的露天花园去,那在周日懒散的阳光下与灿烂的春花丛中是要多浪漫有多浪漫。不过花园里的坐位有限,别忘了提前预约哦。

 

第二家叫作Franky & Johnny’s,坐落在上城,321 Arabella Street,(504) 899-9146。这一家的特色是海鲜,煮的炸的都有,价格非常便宜。一定要点作为头盘的油炸绿番茄,这是新奥尔良的特色。这里还可以点非常有特色的Po-Boy三明治。

 

说起这个Po-Boy历史可就长了,而且说法很多。有的说是经济大萧条时,一家专卖三明治的夫妻店可怜当时贫苦的铁路工,特意把法国面包切作两半,里面放入店里能找到的各式肉类蔬菜,放到几乎溢出来,很便宜的卖给工人们;还有的说是经济萧条时街车工人大罢工,一位街车司机Clove Martin与他老婆Benny给罢工工人们免费提供这种三明治,因为工人们都是贫穷的男孩们,所以这个三明治叫做Poor-Boy, 后来慢慢演变成Po-Boy。现在的Po-Boy三明治,一定要用最好的法式面包,主料小柯建议最好点具有新奥尔良特色的油炸生蚝,之后给三明治“穿全套衣服”,也就是说什么生菜、番茄、腌黄瓜、洋葱等等全部统统加上。东西放全了,自己随喜好再浇上番茄酱、芥末酱或者美奶滋酱,拼命合上两片大厚法式面包不让里面快要爆炸的陷心掉出来,然后张大嘴巴使劲一咬,就慢慢品味去吧。要是吃上了瘾,小柯顺便再推荐一下坐落在法国区的Mother’s (401 Poydras Street, 504-523-9656), 据说是城里最好的Po-Boy餐馆之一,它家的大招牌上还说是城里最棒的香肠店。有如此勇气,而且总是宾客盈门的样子,味道自然不差。

 

最后两家,稍微有点中等偏贵,晚餐大概每人要$20左右Jacques-Imo Café,8324 Oak Street(504-861-0886),是上城最最著名的南方口味大本营。店面是非常不起眼的小门口,进门是个小酒吧,周围一圈长条凳,上面永远是坐满了等坐位的食客。这里不接受预约,如果正好饭点来,周末的时候能等上一个小时。在这里吃饭不必点沙拉,因为一上来餐馆先赠送每人一块玉米面蛋糕和菠菜沙拉,味道都是超级正点。之后点菜基本就可以闭着眼瞎划了,什么都好吃。我个人推荐这里的炖鳕鱼,十分鲜美。不推荐鸡肉,味道一般。如果此时不在上城,那么推荐这家坐落于法国区北面Marigny区的Adolfo’s,611 Frenchmen St,504-948-3800。这家混合意大利与南方克里欧风味小餐馆在此区著名的苹果桶酒吧二楼,不仔细看根本不知道这里原来还藏着如此美味。这家的鱼是超级新鲜,尤其是配以自调的海洋酱(Ocean Sauce),实在太棒了!

 


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
June 14th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments