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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(四)


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四.        无处不在的意大利

 

自从1880至1922年的意大利大移民以来,最初的三百万意大利移民已经发展演变到今天的二千多万,是美国的第五大民族。想想美国总共只有不到三亿人口,几乎每十几个人就有一位与意大利有这样或那样的关联,那么意大利烹饪在美国各地的无孔不入就绝对不足为奇了。

意大利菜最常见的两样就是比萨饼与面条。先不说它们究竟是不是马可. 波罗从元朝时在我们东方国土上受到启发而传承回意大利的;不过在西方饮食风味中,中国人对意大利口味的接受明显要优于其他欧洲国家的饮食。说句玩笑话,这比萨饼不就是把中国馅饼翻过来里冲外,而意大利面差不多就是打卤面么?

馅饼与打卤面在中国基本属于大众平民食品,吃的时候图一个简单方便,要是朋友家人聚在一起共餐,那更是要吃的舒心痛快。同样的道理放到意大利菜上,也要吃个过瘾,图个痛快。它不象法国大餐,讲究的是精致与高雅;尤其是吃比萨饼,刀叉甚至都多余,只管上手抓起来一角大嚼大咽即可。即便在餐馆里,左手拿叉右手握刀慢慢切缓缓咽的吃法对于比萨饼来说都太过做作了。

普通的意大利面主要有四种面酱佐餐。一种是纯番茄酱(Marinara Sauce),各个超市罐装直接出售的就是这种;另一种是番茄酱基础上再加入肉馅煮成肉酱。要是更复杂美味一些,最好再加入各种蔬菜丁,让肉酱的香味更加浓郁;第三种是Alfredo Sauce,也就是白色面酱,其主要成分是奶油、黄油与奶酪,黏稠芬芳,咸中略带一点点酸味,多与蘑菇一起烹饪;

最后是绿色面酱:Pesto Sauce,主要成分与白色面酱相似,但更加入大蒜、坚果和最主要的罗勒(basil)叶子,所以颜色会变绿,而奶酪一定要选用Parmesan Cheese。绿色面酱最后的味道除了牛奶制品的香,还有罗勒叶子(或者其他香草)的特别清新香气,混合着大蒜所带来的些许辛辣,非常适合夏天食用。除了这些家常面酱,餐馆里一般还有一些不太常见的特制面酱,比如说改变前面基本面酱的一种或几种成分为不常见的原料,或者直接用用各式海鲜调卤料等等。

与中国面条比起来,意大利面在形状上更为活泼,充满各式各样趣味盎然的设计与造型。除了最常见的不同粗细的直面条外,其他形状的一般都与不同面酱约定俗成为固定搭配,不过自行创造改良面酱或者搭配也是非常有趣的一项饮食创造,许多著名意大利餐馆的著名厨师更是乐此不疲,利用多种多样的新鲜原料进行创新,比如说在新奥尔良的特色之一就是利用这里丰富的土产小龙虾制作南方辛辣龙虾面酱。而不管是哪家餐馆,一碗出色的意大利面最重要的是要“有味”,也就是说把所有原料的独特味道都引发出来,同时又互补平衡,综合在一起交给舌头上的味觉细胞享受。

除了煮出来的意大利面,还有一种烤出来的面也非常受食客欢迎:“千层意面” Lasagna。制作千层意面其实非常简单:烤箱专用的方形深底大盘子里先铺入一层半透明的长方形千层意面片,之后放入事先调好的奶酪与番茄酱、蔬菜或者肉类混合而成的黏稠夹心,之后再一层面片,再夹心,再面片……如此重复若干次,在最后一层面片外面撒上奶酪碎屑,丢进烤箱烘烤大概一个小时,直到奶酪开始冒泡就好了。同简单的意大利面比起来,千层意面更为繁复精致,吃起来从形式到内容也更为有趣。其实意大利菜的精华除了味道的盛宴之外,最重要的就是要吃出乐趣,品出兴致来。同法国菜相比,意大利菜最合适一大家子老老小小闹闹哄哄的出门一起享受,席间觥筹交错,笑语喧哗,气氛热烈到无以伦比。从这一点上说,意大利菜的欢乐氛围最接近墨西哥聚餐。也难怪,两个都是超级理解艺术、生活,懂得享受人生美景的民族。

意大利菜还有一种类似中国饺子的面制食品,不过虽然形似饺子,里面放的东西却与中国饺子的馅心距离颇远。这种意大利饺子Ravioli基本上填的都是奶油与奶酪的混合物,作为头盘小尝几个尚可怡情,吃多了未免有些油腻。

不过同样是奶酪作为辅料,与茄子合在一起做成一道主菜却是超级好味。这道菜叫做“Eggplant Parmigiana”,中文可以翻译为“奶酪烧茄子”。别看虽然加了中国人不大吃得惯的奶酪,可最后的味道却非常接近中式面酱烧茄子。有些餐馆里的做法是把茄子切成圆片蘸面包屑炸透变软,然后浇上番茄面酱或者肉酱,洒上Mozzarella与Parmesan奶酪进烤箱烤熟,出来的成果就是美味的奶酪烤茄子。

新奥尔良的意大利餐馆价位一般都不太高,而上城大学附近的许多餐馆就更加物美价廉,尤其是比萨饼,各种特制的调料与菜蔬肉类,饼的不同脆软薄厚程度都能随意组合。比较受学生欢迎的一家叫做Fresco Café & Pizzeria, 7625 Maple St., (504) 862-6363。除了室外可以边吃边喂麻雀的休闲露天坐位,室内的装潢也清爽明朗。画家克里姆那张著名的巨大的《吻》在一进门处就颇吸引眼球,里面玻璃房顶的小室墙壁上新奥尔良本地酒吧的古旧宣传海报也很有点怀旧气息。这里的中东式口袋饼(Pita bread)算这里的一个特色,尤其是口袋饼蘸茄泥的头盘,一定不可错过。除了比萨饼,这里还有各种各样的意大利三明治,价格便宜量又足,还配以微烤过的红皮小土豆。尤其是口袋饼代替意式面包制作的卷饼三明治非常值得一试,小柯推荐茄子与鲜虾两种,口感清新滋味又足。

另一家位于圣查尔斯大街上的Slice (1513 St. Charles Ave., 504-525-7437) 与Fresco的悠闲气氛相比就更加浪漫多情。这里除了餐厅,更有一个设施完善灯光迷离的酒吧,很适合恋人们在此流连。Slice餐厅顾名思义,最出色的就是现烤出来的香脆比萨饼,尤其是超薄饼皮那一种。小柯建议尝尝这家的特制比萨饼,比如特别肉类大集合,希腊风情或者超级奶酪等。与这里相比,什么Pizza Hut、Domino之类的连锁店比萨饼就简直难以入口了。吃完了别忘记要一客提拉米苏蛋糕配香草冰激凌调整口感,美味超值。

如果正值狂欢节期间来新奥尔良旅游,那么法国区的Angeli’s (1141 Decatur St,504-566-0077)也值得一试,尤其是几种素食三明治,特别是加入朝鲜蓟(artichoke)的几种,滋味都十分浓郁。Angeli’s 周末直营业到凌晨4点,是法国区最佳的宵夜地点。唯一需要记住的是这里只收现金,不收支票或者信用卡。

说完意大利佳肴,就不能不再提一句意大利甜品。意大利这个民族简直是为美食而生的,同样的冰激凌,意大利叫做“Gelato”的就是要香浓数倍,更不要说夏天吃的意大利水果冰了。新奥尔良最好的专业意大利甜点店 Angelo Brocato’s(214 N. Carrolton Ave., 504-486-1465)已经在这座老城连续经营了三代,超过一百年,即便是毁灭性的卡特里娜飓风也不能将它打垮,装修一新的店铺马上就要于六月底重新开业了。

今后来新奥尔良的朋友们,一定要抽时间去这家店小坐几分钟,叫上一杯香浓的拿铁咖啡,点上一种或几种混合口味的意大利冰激凌,再加上一个几毛钱的新鲜意大利奶油煎饼卷(Cannoli),你会发现这将是你在新奥尔良花费最值得的几块钱。除了冰激凌与奶油煎饼卷,这里还有琳琅满目的意大利饼干,彩色果糖与烘烤到完美的各式蛋糕。小柯的最爱仍然是传统的提拉米苏蛋糕,吃了这么多,还没有一家象这里一样把天使蛋糕烤得如此松软多孔,罗姆酒与mascarpone奶酪完美的搭配在一起。小柯当导游带朋友在城中游览,Angelo Brocato’s是永远的必经之地。


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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
June 15th, 2006
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