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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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结婚纪念之灵异之旅(上)


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 结婚纪念之灵异之旅

2005年7月 

 

话说小柯和大伟结婚转眼两年了,结婚纪念偏偏赶上正忙的时候。于是两个夜猫子半夜嘀嘀咕咕,又上网搜寻了一番,终于决定干脆奔着新奥尔良周边的这些大种植园去好了,充分体会一下南部浪漫闲适的仲夏时光。
 

新奥尔良附近最著名的种植园豪宅当属Oak Alley Plantation,庭院豪华,景色绝美,门口一条300年老橡树枝蔓错落布成的林阴大道气势宏伟,实属一日游的绝佳去处;可惜我们打算过夜,而豪宅里面的房间只供游览,不对外出租。Oak Alley Plantation旁边的Laurel Creole Plantation是附近唯一详细介绍南部奴隶工作生活历史的种植园,只有白天的带解说游览,没有房间出租。这样一来,新奥尔良附近一个小时车程内看来是没有合适我们的庄园了。

Oak Alley Plantation:

 

Laura Plantation:

 

小柯痴心不改,大伟也是不撞南墙不回头的硬脾气。两人翻箱倒柜找出路易斯安那州周边旅游指南(Off the Beaten Path)详细搜索,厚厚的书也没个什么头绪。两个人大眼对小眼正发呆呢,小柯突然灵机一动想起来两年前我们去过的Angola Prison Rodeo,也就是安哥拉囚犯斗牛大会的附近好像有不少庄园,包括一个著名的闹鬼庄园。斗牛本来普通,隔壁的德州牛仔牛妹满大街;可说起来这个囚犯斗牛大会,那可真是美国一景,有机会在每年4月和10月来路易斯安那旅游的游客一定不要错过这场盛事。小柯在开讲鬼故事之前不妨先介绍介绍这个疯狂的斗牛大会,反正七拐八绕的也能和后面的闹鬼庄园扯上点关系。

这个斗牛大会每年两次在路易斯安那首府Baton Rouge(巴吞鲁日)西北边不到一个小时车程的安哥拉镇举行。小小的安哥拉镇名不见经传,也没什么历史人文景观,来路易斯安那旅游的人大都冲着灯红酒绿歌舞升平的新奥尔良市去,本来谁也想不到去这个鸟不生蛋的乡村小镇去逛。唯一可能吸引游人的卖点那就是安哥拉镇地处61号公路尽头,而61号公路上有很多著名的大庄园豪宅,距离安哥拉镇小镇没多远的St. Francisville(圣佛朗西斯郡)更有200多年的历史,每年倒也吸引了不少美国人去“考古”。

正因为安哥拉镇处于61号公路尽头,再往下就是汹涌的密西西比河,州政府决定在这里修建一个州立重犯监狱,关进来的都是死刑或其他终身监禁的重刑囚犯。进出只有一条窄窄的61号公路,量他们越狱也跑不了多远。囚犯们的日子也很枯燥,被关在这个信息闭塞的南方小镇上,跑也没的跑,待着也无聊,平时除了养养牛啊马啊的也没什么好干。于是不知道哪位英勇的狱长决定让囚犯们自娱自乐:在监狱里举办斗牛大会。第一界斗牛大会始办于1965年,囚犯们和狱卒都空前兴奋,大会超级成功!

再说回这安哥拉镇。小镇看着只有几步之隔的圣佛朗西斯郡每年开无数大大小小的节日召集游客来聚会赶集自己也很不甘心,可又没啥自然资源,心里这个急啊。正在没辙之际,囚犯们的斗牛大会吸引了镇长的注意。小柯认为,这镇长一定是个绝顶聪明的人,用时髦的话说,就是大刀阔斧的新时代的改革者啊,果断的决定将囚犯斗牛大会公开变成旅游项目。斗牛于1967年公开,两年内吸引了周边无数游客,于是镇长进一步决定投资修建拥有4500个座位的大斗牛场,专门为囚犯斗牛大会服务。大斗牛场从1969年投入使用,每年都吸引大批游客,不仅是路易斯安那人和周边的南方人,很多美国各地的游客大老远的专门飞到新奥尔良再开车过来看呢!安哥拉囚犯斗牛大会迅速超越圣佛朗西斯郡成为61号公路上最著名的景点之一。

说了半天,这囚犯斗牛大会到底跟一般的斗牛有什么不同?一般的斗牛规规矩矩的,无非是一群勇猛或自认勇猛的青年男女骑到野牛或野马背上看谁待得时间最长。这个囚犯斗牛大会除了前面开场的儿童马术表演外,所有的参加着都是囚犯,他们穿着跟动画片里一模一样的白底黑色横条纹的囚犯服,坐在场地边缘跃跃欲试。斗牛项目也跟一般的大不相同,最著名的是“囚犯扑克牌大赛”。四个囚犯坐在一张牌桌四边假装在玩牌,但桌子上半张牌都没有。没一会,牛栏里放出一头长着锋利尖角的凶猛公牛。因为桌子和椅子都被漆成红色,所以牛会没命的向玩牌的四个人顶去。谁最坐得住,最后一个逃跑或者被顶飞谁就赢,奖品是现金。除此之外还有很多滑稽疯狂的类似项目,什么滚木桶,救同伴,疯牛挤奶等等,绝对让人看得目瞪口呆,佩服美国人的想像力,同时也感慨这些无聊透顶的囚犯们。反正小柯是头一次看到这么多兴高采烈喜气洋洋的囚犯,真比过春节还热闹那! 

小柯跟大伟旅行的日子在7月,跟这个斗牛大会暂时扯不上关系。不过当年从斗牛大会回家的路上看到著名的闹鬼庄园,Myrtle Plantation,一直都想来看看究竟是怎么回事。小柯巴巴的打电话去,满怀希望的问价格,一晚上$250!而且闹鬼的屋子还都租出去了,只剩下豪宅后面的客房(Carriage House)。没辙,还得重新琢磨地儿!

7月天又湿又潮,小柯踅摸要是去个有水的地方估计会比较凉爽,晚上在水边唱唱《在水一方》也挺浪漫,反正美国鬼子们也听不懂小柯唱什么。正巧和一个朋友谈及此事,她强烈向小柯推荐她曾经去过的一个Bed & Breakfast(早餐旅馆)。这个Bed & Breakfast是美国一种比较特别的旅馆,一般都是住在房东家里,房间不多,房子一般都属豪宅,按天收费,租一周的话有折扣。每天早晨房东提供早点,所有房客围桌而坐,边吃边聊,是个了解美国人生活起居的绝佳方式。

朋友推荐的这家叫Rosemond Lake Bed and Breakfast,坐落在圣佛朗西斯郡和安哥拉镇之间的丛林小径深处,紧邻玫瑰丘湖(Rosemond Lake),最近的地方离湖边也就不到20米,湖光林色,风景优美;到了夜晚更是人烟稀少,静谧安详。后院备有鱼竿,脚踏船和划浆船供房客免费使用。房子旁还有摇椅,吊床供游人作浪漫幸福状自拍。秋季时候房子四围和湖边的树会燃起熊熊的红叶之火,衬着房前的绿草黄花,活脱脱就是明信片里的世外桃源。

玫瑰丘湖早餐旅馆总共有四间房出租:两间大的,卫生间里带双人按摩浴缸,每晚$125;两间稍微小点的自带普通浴缸,价格便宜许多,$75。房间有限,去之前一定记得先打电话预约(225- 635-3176)。每个房间都至少有一面窗户直接面对着玫瑰丘湖。夜半十分两个半醉的人坐在窗边喝着红酒看窗外仲夏夜里湖水泛起微微鳞波,倒映着半圆的清月,再执手相看笑眼那么眉来眼去一下,哈哈,估计就连琼瑶奶奶也要陶醉了……

玫瑰丘湖早餐旅馆的位置

 

 

玫瑰丘湖早餐旅馆的秋天

我们住的“日出房间”:

从房间窗户里看日落

 

小柯的浪漫幻想在到达玫瑰丘湖早餐旅馆后迅速破灭。不是景色不美,也不是房间不好;事实上正是因为房子里的游戏太多设施太好让大伟眼睛迅速冒出狼一般的绿光,仿佛饿了三年第一次看到猎物的野兽,眼睛死死盯着游戏室里的Brunswick台球桌,嘴里发出怪兽般的呓语。新奥尔良一般酒吧里的台球案子都比较破,球也轻,怎么都玩不出在国内时那种球球撞击的清脆声响和爽脆质感。这个7成新的球桌立刻成了大伟两天的新宠,小柯只好无奈的舍命陪君子了。啊,我的浪漫计划…… 星光、月夜、湖水、呢喃……全都通通泡汤了,替代的是小柯撞球技术的显著提高。

房东Ms Jeane是个健谈的白人老太太,十分好客,尤其做得一手美味早餐。早餐在9点,过时不候。小柯和大伟都非常喜欢加了辣椒奶酪(Pepper Jack Cheese)的烤蛋饼,配以浇上正宗槭枫糖浆抹上黄油的爱心薄烤饼和两条口味浓重猪肉小煎肠,再喝一口新鲜的橙汁,感受沐浴在南方清晨略带湖水湿气的阳光——原来两个夜猫子久违了的早晨竟然这么美好!

当然,这次旅行的目的可不仅仅是来享受一下南方的悠闲生活,虽然在整个过程中小柯一直固执的幻想自己在体验《简.爱》或者《飘》里描述的庄园主门农闲时腐朽的资产阶级生活,虽然书里的太太小姐们每天不仅要打扮的象去赶集,还要读书、唱歌、跳舞;绅士们还要玩牌、打猎、骑马。而这个玫瑰丘湖早餐旅馆甚至不是真正的庄园!它始建于1963年,当时作为玫瑰丘湖周围居民的私人会所,后来改为餐馆。Ms Jeane的儿子Jon 1992年买下了这幢占地近3顷的房产作为母亲的养老场所,当年10月早餐旅馆开张。和真正的种植园豪宅相比,玫瑰丘湖早餐旅馆实在算不上有特色,但这是直接坐落在湖边的唯一一家早餐旅馆。即使小柯马上就要说到的Myrtle庄园在景色上也无法和其媲美。大伟早对小柯希奇古怪的白日梦和莫名其妙的怪想法习以为常了,什么《飘》啊,贵族们的社交啊到了他耳朵里不过是Blah,Blah,Blah;他更高兴在经历了一个半小时的湖上泛脚踏船的体力活之后我不再逼他去划手划浆船,于是无比兴奋的答应陪我去小柯向往以久的闹鬼庄园。

Ms Jeane和儿子Jon

 

这个闹鬼的Myrtle庄园距离玫瑰丘湖早餐旅馆15分钟车程,就坐落在61号公路边。这个庄园在美国可是大名鼎鼎啊,据说是整个南方第一灵异鬼屋,全美第十三怪异场所。FOX和Discovery频道都对它有专门报道和纪录片(Unsolved Mystery 系列),至今仍无法解释频繁发生在这幢房子里的怪事。当然Myrtle庄园还是很美的,加上名气又大,自然吸引了不少电影公司来这里取景。很多演员都亲身撞鬼,吓的半夜跑掉再也不敢回来。包括全美妇女偶像Oprah Winfrey,一次包下了整个楼上的四间房,却在午夜匆匆迁出,一直拒绝向任何媒体或者庄园人员解释是什么原因。敢在这里过夜的人绝对称得上勇敢者,原因听完小柯讲下面的鬼故事们就清楚了。


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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
December 31st, 2006
Posted by admin | 结婚纪念之灵异之旅 | no comments

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