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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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结婚纪念之灵异之旅(下)


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第二天一早吃过Ms. Jeane精心准备的爱心早餐,小柯和大伟退房去游览圣佛朗西斯郡。小镇人不多,游客也少,在快正午的大太阳下十分静谧。下了61号公路,小镇里主要有三条街道值得一看:Ferdinand Street, Commerce Street和Royal Street。镇里主要的老房子,博物馆和古董店都集中于这三条相交于一点的小街上。尤其是Royal Street,街两边不少古老的私人豪宅,房子前面都立着牌子说明房子的建筑年代和简短历史,很有人文气息。最值得一看的是在Royal Street上的祖母纽扣博物馆。虽然叫博物馆,其实主要是个礼品店,博物馆只是里面很小的一个角落,但是五花八门的纽扣收藏非常全,从美国建国以来每几十年的发展变迁娓娓道来,是个非常不错的私人馆藏。这些纽扣的主人现在专门用这些从全世界各地收集来的古董纽扣设计制作珠宝,设计精美,色彩鲜艳。可惜价格不菲,小柯犹豫了半天还是割爱了,最后在另一家小店里买了只彩色玻璃吹起来的大肚子鱼回家后挂在床头摇晃。

 

Royal Street上的老房子

 

祖母纽扣博物馆

 

博物馆里的纽扣收藏

 

用来制作纽扣的贝壳

 

                 

三条街道交汇处在Commerce街上有不少小餐馆,价格都不贵。我们去的那家是旅游指南上推荐的Magnolia Café,三明治做得不错,气氛也很轻松愉快。门口放着张鱼型铁板凳,虽然已经被雨水冲刷得锈迹斑斑,可鲜艳的颜色仍然绚烂夺目。小柯真想问问老板这张板凳卖不卖,不过想想自己也没地方摆,还是众乐乐吧。

Magnolia Cafe前的鱼型板凳

        

美味三明治

 

三路交汇处的圣佛朗西斯郡早餐旅馆

 

回家的路上小柯不停感叹着时间过得太快,还没玩够呢就要回去了。那些路边的古老庄园都没来得及去,Myrtle里的闹鬼房子还没有亲自住进去体验,圣佛朗西斯郡里著名的各色热带鸟类还没能用我们的相机捕捉它们美丽的倩影…… 不过什么样的旅程都要留下些遗憾悬念才能吸引人再次故地重游不是吗?

不知什么时候,大伟悄悄把右手伸过来放在小柯左手上,收音机里唱着轻快的乡村歌曲。回家的路弯弯曲曲,远处的路慢慢变得模糊,仿佛融化在南方炙热的七月骄阳下。望着窗边飞驰过的牧场,远处高高垒起的干草垛,蓝天白云下自在悠闲午餐的奶牛,小柯满足的闭上了双眼,缓慢的进入梦乡。


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January 1st, 2007
Posted by admin | 结婚纪念之灵异之旅 | no comments


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结婚纪念之灵异之旅(中)


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Myrtle庄园在气势上远无法跟Oak Alley庄园相比,但是庄园门口的四个小孩雕塑和挂满“灰胡子”的橡树给庄园增添了无数诡异气氛。这个“灰胡子”是一种特殊的植物,又叫西班牙藤,因为这种灰色的藤状植物往往挂在其他的树上生长,就好像绿色的树长了灰色的西班牙式胡子一样。小柯和大卫参加的鬼宅游只在周末的傍晚举行,我们特意选了最晚的一场,天色已经开始变暗,老橡树的灰胡子投下阴暗的黑影,说不出名的鸟不时发出悠长凄厉的哀鸣。

导游是个金发碧眼的甩哥。长长的卷曲的金发在脑后梳成一个辫子,目光深邃,笑容迷人。穿着白上衣黑裤子,如果再系个领结批个斗篷那活脱脱就是从电影《采访吸血鬼》中走出来的神秘夺命18世纪吸血鬼!帅哥声音低沉,在庄园大厅昏暗的灯光下抑扬顿挫的带领我们开始上演现代版《鬼宅心惶惶》。

已经有200年历史的Myrtle庄园是1794年David Bradford将军建立的,至今在房子里已经发生过至少10起有记载的谋杀案了。据说庄园的地基建在印第安人的墓地上,大概这就是为什么好多人经常会见到一个裸 体的印第安少女鬼魂的原因了。

大卫将军有个好朋友,法官Clark Woodruffe(克拉克)。这位法官快40岁了,但是偏偏喜欢年轻冒昧的幼齿少女。不过在那个年代这种有钱的中年男人取年轻少女的事也很常见,所以大卫将军就把自己14岁的小女儿Sara Matilda(萨拉)许配给了法官克拉克,二人两年后结婚,生了两个女儿。第二年大卫将军死于黄热病,萨拉继承了Myrtle庄园,不过自己也很快就感染上了黄热病。没办法,克拉克法官只好从奴隶里找了一个心灵手巧的的年轻黑人女奴 Chloe(克箩伊)来照顾小孩。这个偏爱幼齿的克拉克法官自然不会放过青春年少的克箩伊,马上就强迫她和自己发生关系,并进一步纳其为妾。

萨拉病好见克箩伊得宠,当然气得跳脚,可又没啥办法。想来想去,强迫克箩伊离开不如让她自己愿意走来得彻底干净,那怎么样才能让克箩伊自己想走呢?萨拉眼珠一转,计上心头:妒嫉。对,让克箩伊妒嫉自己这个正牌,杀掉二奶气焰让她自动走人!于是萨拉每天穿上以前和克拉克恩爱时他买给她的浮华长裙,戴上精致夺目的希世珠宝,指望着气得克箩伊七窍生烟。可她算错了一步,克箩伊本是贫苦农奴出身,能有今天的地位不用在甘蔗园里顶着大太阳干活已经千恩万谢了,哪里还在乎这些穿戴?何况克箩伊是个文盲,这审美水平也自然和萨拉这位富家千金完全不是一个风格,甚至根本就没注意到萨拉的穿戴有什么变化。最后被气得要死的只有可怜的大奶。

萨拉看让克箩伊嫉妒自己是没戏了,于是又回到最原始简单的铲除情敌的方法去:给克箩伊头上加上莫须有的罪名。萨拉先是向丈夫控告克箩伊偷东西,然后说她打小孩。可这克箩伊二奶也不是好惹的主,在庄园里拥有广大的奴隶阶级后援,证明她既没偷也没虐待孩子,何况小孩们跟她感情还不错。萨拉的指控就这样不了了之。

不过可惜克箩伊有个致命的毛病。跟自古以来的文盲妇女一样,克箩伊非常喜欢传播8卦。可她不读书不识字,所有的8卦信息只能靠道听途说,甚至自己亲自去偷听。也不管人家谈论的东西是不是跟她八杆子都打不上,反正克箩伊一定要去偷听再广播给广大奴隶兄弟姐妹们作饭后农闲的娱乐消遣。这一点被萨拉发现,告到克拉克法官那里。克箩伊被严厉警告:再偷听就狠狠惩罚!

克箩伊收敛了没几个月耳朵就又痒痒了。一次克拉克法官和几个生意上的朋友在屋里谈事情的时候克箩伊又躬身躲在拉门外偷听,结果被从屋里出来取东西的克拉克法官撞个正着。克拉克法官差点摔个跟头,回头一看所有的朋友都掩着嘴偷笑。克拉克法官这个气啊,脸色红一阵白一阵的,立刻到厨房找了把菜刀一刀砍下了克箩伊的左耳。倒霉的克箩伊吃了这个大亏后以后再也不敢偷听了。那个年代也没有断耳再接技术,克箩伊只好找条绿色的头巾把头包住,遮住耳朵。受到惩罚的克箩伊自然也丧失了在屋里干活的特权,被送回种植园和其他奴隶一起干苦力。

克箩伊当然不甘心,也痛恨绝情的克拉克法官,不过更主要的是入奢容易入简难。已经习惯了轻松工作的克箩伊自然无法再忍受艰苦的种植园劳动,想尽办法要回到房子里去。机会终于来了。

在萨拉的大女儿过生日之际,克箩伊特意烤了一个生日蛋糕给这位她曾经照顾的小姐送去。不过克箩伊在蛋糕里面放了少量夹竹桃叶子。文盲的克箩伊以为这种叶子也就跟巴豆的效果差不多,等萨拉和两个女儿都生病以后,她们肯定需要人照顾,这样自己就可以名正言顺的重回庄园大宅了。可惜克箩伊不知道夹竹桃叶子和砷的毒性差不多,她放的叶子量足够毒死一批人了。萨拉和两个不到10岁的女儿在吃完蛋糕后就死了。而克拉克法官此时在外办公,得以逃过一劫。

克拉克回来后看到妻女惨死自然发誓要严惩凶手,奴隶们也吓得要死,结果就把克箩伊给供出来了。原来这克箩伊还喜欢吹牛,在做蛋糕之前就告诉别的奴隶她的完美计划了。克箩伊被拖到庄园前院,吊死在一棵树上,尸体被分成几块扔到密西西比河里。

自此之后克箩伊的灵魂就开始在Myrtle庄园里游荡了。其中最著名的一次事件是几年前的鬼节晚上,庄园搞历史重现活动,一个女导游扮演克箩伊,穿着女奴的长裙,头上包着绿色头巾。表演间歇演员们都用楼下的French Room,也就是一会要说到的庄园后来的女主人白天午睡使用的起居室,更衣。这个女导游性格活泼,打算吓唬吓唬游客或者其他同事。于是趁没人的时候举着一只蜡烛,把French Room里本来就很昏暗的灯光全关了,藏在午睡床旁边上半截是透明玻璃的更衣屏风后面等着人来。不一会儿,她听到清晰的脚步声向屏风的方向走来,举着蜡烛的假克箩伊一下子从屏风后面跳出来,大喊着“Boo——”,心想这还不得把这个倒霉蛋吓得半死!可是这兴奋的喊声只出来一半,另一半在假克箩伊的喉咙里被恐惧硬生生给粘了回去。眼前的倒霉蛋不是别人,正是活生生的克箩伊本人!克箩伊的服饰完全是18世纪的样子,不过布料要老旧许多,颜色也很灰暗,头上还裹着绿头巾。真克箩伊看着目瞪口呆的假克箩伊,发出“恩”的一声叹息,然后有些失望的摇了摇头,之后“噗”的一声吹灭了假克箩伊手里的蜡烛。这位扮演克箩伊的女导游做了所有见鬼的女人都会做的事情:一声凄厉的尖叫滑破房顶响彻整个庄园,然后她整个就瘫软在屏风后面,直到后来赶来的工作人员费了好大劲才把她拖出来问究竟怎么回事。吓得半死的女导游拒绝继续表演,可是后面还有两个团那,票都卖了,又找不到别人代替。大家好说歹说总算劝动她继续后面的两场表演,不过她的条件是无论何时至少有两个人要陪同在她身边。自此之后她就辞去了导游的工作,再也没回过Myrtle庄园。

下面这张照片是一位游客偶然拍到的,画面清晰再现了克箩伊的鬼魂,是Myrtle庄园灵异照片里最著名的一张,登上过无数电视屏幕。照片中的女人阴影和后面的房子是重合的,可以看出这个女人不应该是实体。国家地理杂志对这张照片中的人影作比例年龄等详细分析后得出的结论为:此人影属于一个年轻的非洲女性,身体右半部分比左半部分重量略大,应该残缺了某个器官。老天,这不是克箩伊是谁?更恐怖的是,再另一个研究中,研究人员对整张照片的光影进行还原,也就是根据光的来源,用计算机计算画出预测投影和实际投影比较,同样再根据实际投影来计算预测光的来源。结果发现这个克箩伊投下的影子光源和其他建筑物草木的光源都相反。不仅如此,计算机预测的投影照片比原照片竟然多出来两个人影:右边房顶上有两个坐着的小孩!这和萨拉的两个被毒死的小孩不谋而合,实在看得人得心惊肉跳!

 

克箩伊死后,家破人亡的克拉克法官决定离开伤心地,于是把庄园卖给了一对苏格兰夫妇:The Stirlings(斯特林夫妇)。斯特林太太是个非常时尚的人,她非常讨厌庄园里使用生长在路易斯安那沼泽地里的坚韧柏树打造的家具,认为没有法国和欧洲的高雅,是粗人的表现;同时她又非常迷信。于是斯特林太太让有钱的老公从法国运来所有的家具装潢,大厅门的玻璃上要刻上十字架的花纹,所有水晶吊灯顶上都雕刻不同的小天使保护每个方位。她每天早上起来最喜欢做的就是下楼去法国房间,因为里面所有的家具包括墙上的镜子都是从法国运来的,把家里伺候的女奴都召集进来,斜靠在午睡床榻上给她们分配工作,午饭后也一定要在这里午睡。壁炉上的大镜子顶端中间也有两个天使,分别保护她的左脸和右脸。小柯听着帅哥导游偷偷捅捅大卫:看看,有钱就是好啊,不仅可以用昂贵化妆品加名门珠宝,还能请天使保佑自己的两边脸蛋!

当然这和后来斯特林太太的强化保护措施比起来还算不上什么。那个时候人们相信灵魂看到这些天使啊十字架啊虽然进不来,但是他们还是可以从锁孔里通过的。于是斯特林太太要锁匠把所有的锁孔倒置,期待这些灵魂们都是低能鬼,看到反装的锁眼就会迷惑发呆,然后就傻乎乎走鬼了!不过估计后来她自己也觉得这个低能理论站不住脚,最终让人把所有的锁眼都盖住才放心。小柯心想,这个斯特林太太自以为聪明,以为把房子密封得严严的,外来游魂野鬼怎么都进不来,可没想到自己买的这个庄园有内鬼,封住了房子内鬼也走不了啦!包括以后再发生的那些凶杀案的冤鬼都被迫成了常驻户。

这个斯特林太太超级喜爱的法国屋也被叫做“行李屋”。因为至今这个房间里所有的家具还都是斯特林太太用过的,没有被更新,所以每个导游都要向游人强调请不要拍照打闪光灯,请不要坐、靠在家具上。前导游波比女士一次在工作中带十几个游客进入法国屋,结果看到一位胖胖的老妇坐在窗前的古董沙发上面,不时的拽着身边的一位年轻男子的衣袖和他喃喃的说着什么。波比导游很生气:这个女人不仅不听从要求,还在我讲话的时候在下面开小差,真恨不得去一把把她揪起来!不过转念一想,这个胖女人年纪这么大了,说不定是腿脚有问题,或者有什么事情非要跟那个年轻男游客说。游览结束后波比女士特意去寻找刚才这两个人,结果只找到那个年轻男游客,估计胖老妇去洗手间了。波比问他和他同来的老妇有什么问题,是不是健康状况不好等等。结果男游客满脸诧异的问:“我是一个人来的,你说的是谁?”奇怪的波比女士于是详细的向他描述了她看到的老妇模样。刚说完这位男游客就哭了,原来波比描述的人正是他刚刚去世的祖母,他之所以一个人旅游就是要去参加祖母的葬礼!现在大家就知道为什么法国屋又叫行李屋了,因为这间屋是最容易显现游客的“感情行李”的屋子,类似的事件还发生过很多。

近期关于法国屋最恐怖的见鬼经历是Myrtle庄园现在的主人夫妇。他们买下庄园后进行了大规模装修,本来是打算住在这里的。妻子特别喜欢法国屋,在原来的床上搭上了一个双人床垫当了自己的卧室。一个月黑风高的晚上,不知道为什么整幢房停电了。妻子隐隐听到房间外面的厅里有奇怪的声响,好像什么人破门而入了一样。妻子十分担心,可丈夫睡得象个死猪,于是勇敢的妻子抓过手电筒打算自行上楼察看一番,因为楼上的四间卧室都睡着客人,她要确定客人没有受到打扰。可是手电筒也跟抽了风一样不工作,妻子没办法只好采取最古老的照明方式,点着蜡烛上了楼。还好,所有的客人都在熟睡,没人被打扰。房子里各个角落也都正常,没有人进来的痕迹。妻子松了口气,放松心情拿着蜡烛回到法国屋,上床躺到丈夫身边。就在她吹灭蜡烛准备就寝的那一瞬间,床右边洗手间的门“吱呀——”一声突然打开了。“天,这一定就是刚才我听到的声音了,有人进来了!”妻子吓坏了,本能的靠近丈夫抓住他的胳膊,丈夫的体温和呼吸让她安心不少。终于,一个人影举着蜡烛从洗手间出来了,妻子惊恐的睁大双眼看这个贼究竟是谁。目光落在这不速之客脸上的一刹那,妻子的心脏停止跳动两秒,脑子嗡嗡直响,浑身的汗毛都竖立起来。来人不是别人,正是——她的丈夫!妻子迅速从床上滚下来,双唇颤抖,结结巴巴说不出话来,指着床左边张大嘴。微弱的烛光下,床左半边的被单是被掀开的,隐约看出一个人形压出的痕迹。丈夫大着胆子去摸被子里,结果里面冰凉,仿佛里面放满了冰块。两个人吓得屁滚尿流的跑出法国屋,再也没敢进来。此后这对夫妇迅速搬到北方,决定开放庄园作为旅游景点。他们对整幢庄园大宅都进行了翻修,力求恢复庄园原貌。在指挥装修的过程中,妻子绝不踏进法国屋半步,最多站在门口指点一下。看来真正撞鬼听起来好玩,但却真能造成永久的心灵创伤呢!

不能打闪光灯,颜色不好。这就是那张著名的见鬼法国古董床

法国屋外面就是一个长方形的小厅连接着前后门,厅里放着一架破损的古董钢琴,钢琴后面铺着红地毯的楼梯通向楼上的四间卧室,对面墙上挂着著名的锁魂镜。据说这面镜子下面的小桌子在葬礼的时候用来放死人尸体,这是南方的古老习俗。尸体往往要放好几天供远路前来的宾友吊唁。那时人们相信镜子具有锁住灵魂的能力,如果在停放尸体的时候不用黑布把镜子遮起来,那死人的灵魂就会进入镜子永远不能出来。后来南北战争的时候庄园被用来停放邦联士兵的尸体,奴隶们也跑得跑散得散,自然没有人去用黑布遮盖这面镜子。究竟镜子里被锁住了多少鬼魂一直都是个迷,不过有一点可以确定,这面镜子有很多无法解释的怪异现象出现。

镜子的边框一直是原来的古董,但是镜面隔几年就要更新。因为这面镜子莫名其妙的就开始从上向下变黑,直到整面镜子完全不能用。工作人员每几年把完全黑掉的镜面换下来打破成三份,按照宗教传统分别埋在三个地方。新换上的镜面没几个星期又开始慢慢变黑,而且总在同一个地方出现一个女人的侧影,侧影左边出现几道象熊爪抓过的黑色痕迹。镜子的边缘也会在同样的地方反复出现小孩的凌乱指纹。

这还不算,很多游客都在镜子里照出鬼影。有时是一个黑衣女人,有时是楼梯上站着的一排邦联军人。所以导游要每位游客对着镜子拍两张照片,一张打闪光灯的,一张不打,看有什么灵异现象出现。小柯让大卫七照八照结果还是什么都没看出来,失望之余暗中自我安慰:这要真见了鬼还不定要吓得怎么样呢!

著名的锁魂镜和“吸血鬼”导游,注意看镜子中间靠右的女人侧影和她身前代表权力象征的熊爪子印

再说说关于这个厅里楼梯与鬼有关的典故。斯特林夫妇死后他们的女儿萨拉和丈夫威廉穆斯经历了南北内战继承了Myrtle庄园。这个威廉穆斯是个律师。有一天他在绅士房里教儿子语文,突然听到前院有人经过并大喊着需要一个律师。威廉穆斯迅速走到前廊看是怎么回事。还没搞明白呢,一个骑在马上的邦联军人对着威廉穆斯的心脏就是一枪,这个高个子男人立刻倒在血泊里。儿子听到动静出来一看吓坏了,哭着把威廉穆斯拖进大宅里,一直向法国屋外的楼梯拖去,同时大喊他母亲萨拉。萨拉听到动静迅速向下楼跑,看到血淋淋的丈夫大叫一声。儿子也拖着威廉穆斯上楼,大家会合在第17级台阶,然后威廉穆斯就彻底没气了。直到今天也不明白究竟是谁杀了威廉穆斯,为什么。这之后就有住在Myrtle庄园的游客报告说听到过女人的尖叫,紧接着就是16响沉重的脚步声,然后就是人摔倒的闷响。

 

厅的另一边是餐厅,淑女屋和绅士屋。庄园于80年代改成早餐旅馆后有不少大胆另类的年轻人在这里举行婚礼,婚宴就在餐厅举行。一次小规模的婚宴中,好多客人都感觉到桌子底下有什么东西在不停动来动去,不停碰大家的大腿。导游帅哥的理论是,萨拉两个小孩的鬼魂是非常调皮的,他们最喜欢做生前大人不允许他们做的事,比如在桌子底下爬来爬去,乱动客人的手脚恶作剧等等。还有一次一个两岁大的宝宝游客说他看到餐厅的水晶吊灯上坐着一个小女孩;而两岁大的小孩虽然具有说谎的能力,但却不能想像出没见过的东西。这样看来,这个小孩一定是在什么时间真的看到过吊灯上的女孩。很多女性游客在这几个屋子经常会经历的就是丢失一只耳环,有些时候能在非常奇怪的地方找回来,有些时候不能。据说这是克箩伊的恶作剧,因为她只有一只耳朵,只需要一只耳环就好了。有一次一个客人偷偷的在房间里玩碟仙招克箩伊的鬼魂,问自己丢的耳环在哪。结果克箩伊给出的回答是:B——E——A——K。这个客人忘了克箩伊是个奴隶,根本没学过读书写字,估计她给出的字母就是她觉得好看的,或者也许她想说的是“bake”——耳环放在她烤的毒蛋糕里。

餐厅一角,桌子上放着仿制的毒蛋糕

 

淑女屋在绅士屋的左边,屋里窗前的沙发前放着一个古董咖啡桌。一般闹鬼的大宅中都有一个地方叫冷点,或者灵异点,是屋里鬼气最重灵力最强的地方,可以左右哪个鬼魂留下,哪个鬼魂离开和离开的方向。这个咖啡桌所在的位置就是冷点。FOX电视台在庄园里取景拍摄电影的时候就曾经发生过所有放在餐厅里的摄像器材莫名其妙跑到这个点的奇怪事情。

淑女屋的正上方二楼是著名的绿房间卧室。南北战争的时候庄园被用作医院,一个右脚受伤爱抽雪茄的邦联军人被送到这里来治疗。但是这个人一是不相信医药,二是他不想早早治好重返战场,于是一直拒绝任何医疗治疗,只让护士每天给他换绷带。结果这个军人就得了坏疽病,不得不截肢,最后在绿房间里死于坏疽。这个绿房间是庄园里客人报告遇鬼事件最多的。许多人早上醒来会觉得右脚麻木或者剧痛,但是一离开这个房间就没事了;整个庄园大宅里是严禁吸烟的,但是无数游客都说在绿房间里偶尔能闻到雪茄的味道。

淑女屋和绅士屋再后面的最后一个小房间是当年克拉克法官和妻子萨拉专门用来给小孩用餐的儿童餐厅。萨拉和两个孩子被毒死以后这间屋子就好长时间没被使用过了。后来庄园转手后儿童餐厅就被改成游戏室,以前四方形的儿童餐桌正好改成棋牌桌。桌子对面的壁炉上挂着一面凸透镜,视角广阔。斯特林先生玩牌的时候一定要坐在面对镜子的位置,这样自己就可以好运连连。果然,事实证明他也确实鲜有输牌。究竟是运气还是镜子的功劳大家就心照不宣了。南北战争的时候斯特林夫妇跑到别的地方,特意把庄园外观弄得极其破旧,躲过了很多次军队占领,所以至今内部家具仍然保存完好。可惜有一天一个骑马而来的士兵打算进入这个荒芜废弃的庄园瞅瞅,没想到庄园里面比外面看起来好得太多。这个士兵一高兴,立刻宣布庄园为他的私人财产。他最喜欢在游戏室里和朋友玩纸牌,不过他自己决定的幸运位置是背对镜子的那一个。一次玩牌他输个精光,最后输急眼了就把Myrtle庄园给压上了,朋友本来只是逗他玩玩,没想到赌注这么大,再说也不知道这是个闹鬼的庄园,在利益面前迅速屈服,利用镜子的帮助轻松赢下了庄园。士兵当然不干了,一定要拉着朋友说再玩一盘。朋友说先休息一下再玩,于是这个倒霉蛋傻瓜兵就开门跑到门廊上换换气。一脚刚踏出门槛,他马上意识到自己犯了兵家大忌:把后背暴露给自己的敌人,于是以迅雷不及掩耳的速度猛得一转头——可惜还是晚了,朋友一枪打在了他的面门,子弹把脑袋都给炸开了。据说现在游戏室里大门对面墙上挂的无名邦联士兵就是这个倒霉的人。旁边面对镜子的墙上挂了另一副人像油画,年代久远得油彩已经开始龟裂。不管从哪个角度看,小柯都觉得画中人都在顶着自己,当然这没有什么希罕的,这样的画法太普通了。不过让小柯听着心里发毛的是据说长时间盯着这副画像观察的话,画中人的表情会变:他会轻轻扬起嘴角微笑。小柯盯着看了半天,拼命擦擦眼睛,紧张得等着画中人冲我微笑,等了半天却还是自作多情。这已经是参观闹鬼庄园的最后一间屋子了,看来小柯是与鬼魂无缘了。用大伟的理论解释就是:我们中国人大老远的飘洋过海的到美国来,中国的鬼嫌累一定不会跟着飞这么远;而美国的鬼说中文的估计没几个,再说就算有鬼翻译,能够服务的区域有限,一般都不会出来主动吓唬中国人。所以我们一定是两不管,哈哈,这叫ghost-free!

淑女屋和绅士屋。前面铺着桌布的咖啡桌就是冷点

 

游戏屋最近的一次闹鬼经历是一个刚到Myrtle庄园的年轻女导游带领一班游客撞上的。她正给游客讲解那个倒霉的士兵的时候,身后一扇门的把手突然开始不停转动起来。这扇门后面就是餐厅,导游开始以为一定是那个落队的游客想从这里进来,所以也没在意继续讲。后来这个把手转得越来越厉害,不管导游怎么加大声音,甚至加上手势,也无法把大家的吸引力集中到自己身上。“算了,开门看看究竟是谁在恶作剧吧!”导游想着,无可奈何的暂停自己的演说转身拉开了门。眼前的景象吓得她说不出话来。门后哪里是什么餐厅,只有一个三层格子的储物间,里面空无一人,更不可能藏人。不仅如此,这个门把手完全是一面的,也就是说门的另一边根本没有把手,是平平的木头!导游倒吸一口冷气“砰”的关上了门,扭头看游客——大家早跑光了!只有两个胆大的年轻男女和男的推着一个坐轮椅的老太太张大嘴愣在原地。四个人迅速离开了游戏室。后来这个年轻导游央求这个现场的女青年和自己去庄园管理办公室把这次遇鬼经历纪录在案。因为庄园规定跟历史有关的鬼故事导游可以随便讲,但凡是个人经历,必须要有至少一个证人证明,在庄园登记以后才可以向游客讲述。

 

游览结束前,导游给大家传阅了一些在庄园里拍的一些著名的灵异照片,一张是大家已经看过的克箩伊的显灵照片,另一张是还未发表的照片,目前正在某大学的实验室里被做光学研究。照片据说是一个游客结束游览以后用照相机向庄园前门外漆黑的空地照了一张,不过闪光灯装反了,变成向内闪光,结果照片洗出来后明显看见四个邦联军人抬着一口棺材,身后一棵树燃着熊熊大火,远处的一棵树下吊着一个人型。小柯觉得那棵着火的树绝对是闪光灯造成的,因为这样闪错的照片本身颜色就会发橘红色,看上去好象着火也不足为奇。不过那四个邦联军人的形象真是很不可思议,这巧合也太巧了些!

正看着呢,大伟不知道怎么回事突然站立不稳,不小心碰了吊着水晶珠子装饰的古董台灯。台灯一倾斜,吊着的水晶珠子相互碰撞发出叮咚的脆响,把满屋子本来就紧张兮兮的游客们都吓得够呛,一个10岁左右的小孩更是吓得躲进妈妈怀里。所有人的目光都集中在大伟身上,还以为什么灵异事件发生了。大伟赶紧面红耳赤的摇摆双手解释:“是我不小心碰的,不是台灯自己倒了,不是台灯自己倒了!”我们的“吸血鬼”帅哥导游故意满面狐疑的说:“你确定?”大家哄堂大笑。

游览就这样结束了。鬼故事听得惊心动魄,不过小柯还嫌不过瘾,拉着大伟在庄园里面四处乱转,就指望着能有些什么离奇经历回去也好和父老乡亲添油加醋摆摆龙门阵那!左看右看,连庄园角落的空地都照了无数张照片,回来看还是半个鬼影子都没有。大伟说我们俩一身正气,鬼早吓跑了!小柯不理自己在那臭美的大伟,还想着游览开始之前卖票阿姨的话。那两个卖票和小卖部阿姨们都在这里工作好多年了,他们说鬼魂在房子里的气味都是不一样的,在这里待久的人进屋一闻就能闻出来。其中一个阿姨甚至亲身遇鬼,就在那小卖部里,头发被鬼剪下来大概10英寸一绺。不过因为房子里各处都是守护天使,这些鬼只是恶作剧而已,还从来没有发生过伤人事件。阿姨们说她们都闻出来了,那天房子里是肯定有鬼的,不过看来鬼也有心情好和不好的时候,小柯和它们注定无缘了。

Myrtle庄园除了周五周六晚5-8点这个闹鬼游之外,平时每日还提供历史游,专门介绍庄园的历史和内部陈列的古董文物。庄园里还有一家餐厅和酒吧,是圣佛朗西斯郡附近最高档的餐厅了,专营南方特色食物,海鲜甜点味道都是一流。当然,跟全美排名第一的美食之都新奥尔良比起来是小巫见大巫,但在附近小镇那绝对是首屈一指的。小柯一个朋友有一次来的时候还碰见了大明星尼古拉斯. 凯奇(Nicholas Cage)带着他的韩裔小妻子在这里喝酒呢!

小柯和大伟恋恋不舍的离开Myrtle庄园,开着车在伸手不见五指的小路上七拐八拐的回到玫瑰丘湖早餐旅馆,又打了两杆台球,三局乒乓才和着湖边隐隐传来的蛙声虫鸣沉沉睡去。


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January 1st, 2007
Posted by admin | 结婚纪念之灵异之旅 | no comments


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结婚纪念之灵异之旅(上)


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 结婚纪念之灵异之旅

2005年7月 

 

话说小柯和大伟结婚转眼两年了,结婚纪念偏偏赶上正忙的时候。于是两个夜猫子半夜嘀嘀咕咕,又上网搜寻了一番,终于决定干脆奔着新奥尔良周边的这些大种植园去好了,充分体会一下南部浪漫闲适的仲夏时光。
 

新奥尔良附近最著名的种植园豪宅当属Oak Alley Plantation,庭院豪华,景色绝美,门口一条300年老橡树枝蔓错落布成的林阴大道气势宏伟,实属一日游的绝佳去处;可惜我们打算过夜,而豪宅里面的房间只供游览,不对外出租。Oak Alley Plantation旁边的Laurel Creole Plantation是附近唯一详细介绍南部奴隶工作生活历史的种植园,只有白天的带解说游览,没有房间出租。这样一来,新奥尔良附近一个小时车程内看来是没有合适我们的庄园了。

Oak Alley Plantation:

 

Laura Plantation:

 

小柯痴心不改,大伟也是不撞南墙不回头的硬脾气。两人翻箱倒柜找出路易斯安那州周边旅游指南(Off the Beaten Path)详细搜索,厚厚的书也没个什么头绪。两个人大眼对小眼正发呆呢,小柯突然灵机一动想起来两年前我们去过的Angola Prison Rodeo,也就是安哥拉囚犯斗牛大会的附近好像有不少庄园,包括一个著名的闹鬼庄园。斗牛本来普通,隔壁的德州牛仔牛妹满大街;可说起来这个囚犯斗牛大会,那可真是美国一景,有机会在每年4月和10月来路易斯安那旅游的游客一定不要错过这场盛事。小柯在开讲鬼故事之前不妨先介绍介绍这个疯狂的斗牛大会,反正七拐八绕的也能和后面的闹鬼庄园扯上点关系。

这个斗牛大会每年两次在路易斯安那首府Baton Rouge(巴吞鲁日)西北边不到一个小时车程的安哥拉镇举行。小小的安哥拉镇名不见经传,也没什么历史人文景观,来路易斯安那旅游的人大都冲着灯红酒绿歌舞升平的新奥尔良市去,本来谁也想不到去这个鸟不生蛋的乡村小镇去逛。唯一可能吸引游人的卖点那就是安哥拉镇地处61号公路尽头,而61号公路上有很多著名的大庄园豪宅,距离安哥拉镇小镇没多远的St. Francisville(圣佛朗西斯郡)更有200多年的历史,每年倒也吸引了不少美国人去“考古”。

正因为安哥拉镇处于61号公路尽头,再往下就是汹涌的密西西比河,州政府决定在这里修建一个州立重犯监狱,关进来的都是死刑或其他终身监禁的重刑囚犯。进出只有一条窄窄的61号公路,量他们越狱也跑不了多远。囚犯们的日子也很枯燥,被关在这个信息闭塞的南方小镇上,跑也没的跑,待着也无聊,平时除了养养牛啊马啊的也没什么好干。于是不知道哪位英勇的狱长决定让囚犯们自娱自乐:在监狱里举办斗牛大会。第一界斗牛大会始办于1965年,囚犯们和狱卒都空前兴奋,大会超级成功!

再说回这安哥拉镇。小镇看着只有几步之隔的圣佛朗西斯郡每年开无数大大小小的节日召集游客来聚会赶集自己也很不甘心,可又没啥自然资源,心里这个急啊。正在没辙之际,囚犯们的斗牛大会吸引了镇长的注意。小柯认为,这镇长一定是个绝顶聪明的人,用时髦的话说,就是大刀阔斧的新时代的改革者啊,果断的决定将囚犯斗牛大会公开变成旅游项目。斗牛于1967年公开,两年内吸引了周边无数游客,于是镇长进一步决定投资修建拥有4500个座位的大斗牛场,专门为囚犯斗牛大会服务。大斗牛场从1969年投入使用,每年都吸引大批游客,不仅是路易斯安那人和周边的南方人,很多美国各地的游客大老远的专门飞到新奥尔良再开车过来看呢!安哥拉囚犯斗牛大会迅速超越圣佛朗西斯郡成为61号公路上最著名的景点之一。

说了半天,这囚犯斗牛大会到底跟一般的斗牛有什么不同?一般的斗牛规规矩矩的,无非是一群勇猛或自认勇猛的青年男女骑到野牛或野马背上看谁待得时间最长。这个囚犯斗牛大会除了前面开场的儿童马术表演外,所有的参加着都是囚犯,他们穿着跟动画片里一模一样的白底黑色横条纹的囚犯服,坐在场地边缘跃跃欲试。斗牛项目也跟一般的大不相同,最著名的是“囚犯扑克牌大赛”。四个囚犯坐在一张牌桌四边假装在玩牌,但桌子上半张牌都没有。没一会,牛栏里放出一头长着锋利尖角的凶猛公牛。因为桌子和椅子都被漆成红色,所以牛会没命的向玩牌的四个人顶去。谁最坐得住,最后一个逃跑或者被顶飞谁就赢,奖品是现金。除此之外还有很多滑稽疯狂的类似项目,什么滚木桶,救同伴,疯牛挤奶等等,绝对让人看得目瞪口呆,佩服美国人的想像力,同时也感慨这些无聊透顶的囚犯们。反正小柯是头一次看到这么多兴高采烈喜气洋洋的囚犯,真比过春节还热闹那! 

小柯跟大伟旅行的日子在7月,跟这个斗牛大会暂时扯不上关系。不过当年从斗牛大会回家的路上看到著名的闹鬼庄园,Myrtle Plantation,一直都想来看看究竟是怎么回事。小柯巴巴的打电话去,满怀希望的问价格,一晚上$250!而且闹鬼的屋子还都租出去了,只剩下豪宅后面的客房(Carriage House)。没辙,还得重新琢磨地儿!

7月天又湿又潮,小柯踅摸要是去个有水的地方估计会比较凉爽,晚上在水边唱唱《在水一方》也挺浪漫,反正美国鬼子们也听不懂小柯唱什么。正巧和一个朋友谈及此事,她强烈向小柯推荐她曾经去过的一个Bed & Breakfast(早餐旅馆)。这个Bed & Breakfast是美国一种比较特别的旅馆,一般都是住在房东家里,房间不多,房子一般都属豪宅,按天收费,租一周的话有折扣。每天早晨房东提供早点,所有房客围桌而坐,边吃边聊,是个了解美国人生活起居的绝佳方式。

朋友推荐的这家叫Rosemond Lake Bed and Breakfast,坐落在圣佛朗西斯郡和安哥拉镇之间的丛林小径深处,紧邻玫瑰丘湖(Rosemond Lake),最近的地方离湖边也就不到20米,湖光林色,风景优美;到了夜晚更是人烟稀少,静谧安详。后院备有鱼竿,脚踏船和划浆船供房客免费使用。房子旁还有摇椅,吊床供游人作浪漫幸福状自拍。秋季时候房子四围和湖边的树会燃起熊熊的红叶之火,衬着房前的绿草黄花,活脱脱就是明信片里的世外桃源。

玫瑰丘湖早餐旅馆总共有四间房出租:两间大的,卫生间里带双人按摩浴缸,每晚$125;两间稍微小点的自带普通浴缸,价格便宜许多,$75。房间有限,去之前一定记得先打电话预约(225- 635-3176)。每个房间都至少有一面窗户直接面对着玫瑰丘湖。夜半十分两个半醉的人坐在窗边喝着红酒看窗外仲夏夜里湖水泛起微微鳞波,倒映着半圆的清月,再执手相看笑眼那么眉来眼去一下,哈哈,估计就连琼瑶奶奶也要陶醉了……

玫瑰丘湖早餐旅馆的位置

 

 

玫瑰丘湖早餐旅馆的秋天

我们住的“日出房间”:

从房间窗户里看日落

 

小柯的浪漫幻想在到达玫瑰丘湖早餐旅馆后迅速破灭。不是景色不美,也不是房间不好;事实上正是因为房子里的游戏太多设施太好让大伟眼睛迅速冒出狼一般的绿光,仿佛饿了三年第一次看到猎物的野兽,眼睛死死盯着游戏室里的Brunswick台球桌,嘴里发出怪兽般的呓语。新奥尔良一般酒吧里的台球案子都比较破,球也轻,怎么都玩不出在国内时那种球球撞击的清脆声响和爽脆质感。这个7成新的球桌立刻成了大伟两天的新宠,小柯只好无奈的舍命陪君子了。啊,我的浪漫计划…… 星光、月夜、湖水、呢喃……全都通通泡汤了,替代的是小柯撞球技术的显著提高。

房东Ms Jeane是个健谈的白人老太太,十分好客,尤其做得一手美味早餐。早餐在9点,过时不候。小柯和大伟都非常喜欢加了辣椒奶酪(Pepper Jack Cheese)的烤蛋饼,配以浇上正宗槭枫糖浆抹上黄油的爱心薄烤饼和两条口味浓重猪肉小煎肠,再喝一口新鲜的橙汁,感受沐浴在南方清晨略带湖水湿气的阳光——原来两个夜猫子久违了的早晨竟然这么美好!

当然,这次旅行的目的可不仅仅是来享受一下南方的悠闲生活,虽然在整个过程中小柯一直固执的幻想自己在体验《简.爱》或者《飘》里描述的庄园主门农闲时腐朽的资产阶级生活,虽然书里的太太小姐们每天不仅要打扮的象去赶集,还要读书、唱歌、跳舞;绅士们还要玩牌、打猎、骑马。而这个玫瑰丘湖早餐旅馆甚至不是真正的庄园!它始建于1963年,当时作为玫瑰丘湖周围居民的私人会所,后来改为餐馆。Ms Jeane的儿子Jon 1992年买下了这幢占地近3顷的房产作为母亲的养老场所,当年10月早餐旅馆开张。和真正的种植园豪宅相比,玫瑰丘湖早餐旅馆实在算不上有特色,但这是直接坐落在湖边的唯一一家早餐旅馆。即使小柯马上就要说到的Myrtle庄园在景色上也无法和其媲美。大伟早对小柯希奇古怪的白日梦和莫名其妙的怪想法习以为常了,什么《飘》啊,贵族们的社交啊到了他耳朵里不过是Blah,Blah,Blah;他更高兴在经历了一个半小时的湖上泛脚踏船的体力活之后我不再逼他去划手划浆船,于是无比兴奋的答应陪我去小柯向往以久的闹鬼庄园。

Ms Jeane和儿子Jon

 

这个闹鬼的Myrtle庄园距离玫瑰丘湖早餐旅馆15分钟车程,就坐落在61号公路边。这个庄园在美国可是大名鼎鼎啊,据说是整个南方第一灵异鬼屋,全美第十三怪异场所。FOX和Discovery频道都对它有专门报道和纪录片(Unsolved Mystery 系列),至今仍无法解释频繁发生在这幢房子里的怪事。当然Myrtle庄园还是很美的,加上名气又大,自然吸引了不少电影公司来这里取景。很多演员都亲身撞鬼,吓的半夜跑掉再也不敢回来。包括全美妇女偶像Oprah Winfrey,一次包下了整个楼上的四间房,却在午夜匆匆迁出,一直拒绝向任何媒体或者庄园人员解释是什么原因。敢在这里过夜的人绝对称得上勇敢者,原因听完小柯讲下面的鬼故事们就清楚了。


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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
December 31st, 2006
Posted by admin | 结婚纪念之灵异之旅 | no comments