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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(一)


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一.地道又过瘾的Cajun与Creole食物

 

既然说的是新奥尔良,自然要从最最地道最体现这个城市历史文化的Cajun与Creole食物说起。

 

Cajun这个词中文几乎没有令人满意的翻译,根据google上的搜索,暂时按照音译称其为“卡真”吧。卡真人是从加拿大地区移居到美国路易斯安那州的法国人后裔。当时大概在18世纪中后期的时候,现今加拿大地域的英国与法国殖民者之间展开了一场争夺新法国殖民地的战争,许多法国人开始举家南迁,那些不知目的地的商船把他们载到哪,哪就是新的家。其中大部分法国阿卡地亚地区的殖民者们就展转流落到了今天的美国路易斯安那州,成为今天卡真人的鼻祖。

 

卡真人的语言直到今天仍然是带有浓重阿卡地亚口音的法语。卡真食物基本上就是法加农村家乡菜,烹饪简单,大量采用南方本地的原料与香料,比方说几乎每菜必放的洋葱、芹菜与青椒碎丁调味,比方说常见的路易斯安那小龙虾等,风格十分浓厚辛辣。米饭永远是卡真风味的主食,这与美国其余地区面包就大肉的风格比起来真真是异类。卡真食物中最著名的有两种:一是麻辣小龙虾,二是海鲜稀饭。

 

麻辣小龙虾是季节性的卡真食物。每年一到三四月份,路易斯安那州的小龙虾就成长得差不多了,开始区域迁徙。我认识一位朋友,每年到了这个时候最喜欢到小龙虾最丰盛的地方,带上几个塑料袋,拣这些傻冒小龙虾们的必经地守株待兔。这些傻家伙们,虽然生了一对吓唬人的大钳子,可脑子却非常愚笨,每年都走同样的路,结果被人白白拣起来成了腹中美味。当然,餐馆里大卖的麻辣小龙虾仍然还是大量专业捕捞来的。路易斯安那本地的小龙虾个头非常大,又厉害,据说出口到意大利把人家本地的小龙虾给残害得家破人亡。而餐馆里常见的个头小的家伙们很多是从中国进口的,成本低廉,做出来味道却也差不多少。

 

卡真的麻辣小龙虾可不是平时美国食物里意思意思的所谓辣法。南方的辣那绝对是真辣,不辣你个涕泪纵横绝不罢休。吃麻辣小龙虾的日子一般都是阳光普照,万里无云。一家人从餐馆买来论磅装的麻辣小龙虾,放在褐色纸袋里到公园或者湖边野餐;要么就是公司学校组织的麻辣小龙虾聚餐,请专门的烹饪公司来,架起一口大铁桶,把成磅成磅的活小龙虾和大包调料倒进去,边煮边搅。吃的时候用白色的塑料泡沫饭盒装满满一盒艳红,旁边放两个同样味道的麻辣小红皮土豆和一块甜死人的嫩玉米,麻辣之旅就开始了。

 

是不是南方人从吃小龙虾的方法上一下就能看出个究竟。不常吃的人单是剥这个龙虾皮就费不少劲,如果不小心把手划个小口,又麻又辣的汁液渗进伤口,那就是连嘴带手一起过瘾了。再看人家地道的南方人,先把小龙虾头揪下来,狠狠吸一口里面味道超级浓重的麻辣汁液与龙虾脑,然后去掉小龙虾身上的第一节壳,手指抓住下面的虾肉使劲一拽,整个虾肉就出来了,连泥线都没有就直接吃了。那个配小龙虾的红皮小土豆也是我的最爱,尤其是又咸又辣的土豆皮,每次吃都被辣得直叫受不了,可每次还是一边叫一边拼命吃。春夏来新奥尔良,麻辣小龙虾大餐是绝对不能错过的一道美味。上城的Shell Shucked Sea Food & Oyster Bar (1506 Carrollton Ave, 504-861-1003)是为数不多的几家提供全套麻辣小龙虾的餐馆。飓风前在中城有一家味道超正的海鲜小店,只提供外卖,每次都要排大长队等它家的麻辣小龙虾,可惜现在因为中城被毁损严重,仍未开业。不过不怕,这并不能阻挡真正想吃麻辣小龙虾的食客的坚定决心。只要开过密西西比河,在90号公路中部有一家海鲜市场,从早到晚出售新鲜的大虾,活蟹与各种冷冻鱼,季节对了还有活小龙虾,价格便宜选择又多,穷学生们要吃海鲜都到这里寻宝。海鲜市场旁边就有一家外卖麻辣小龙虾的餐饮小店,虽然味道不如中城那家,但也绝对不差。

 

除了麻辣小龙虾,海鲜稀饭也是人见人爱的好东西。其实这海鲜稀饭不是非常纯粹的卡真食物,它受到浓重的非洲以及印第安烹饪风格的影响。不同餐馆的海鲜稀饭稍有区别,但主要的成分是少不了的。一是虾与螃蟹腿,二是鸡腿肉。蔬菜一定要放入okra, 中文叫做秋葵的蔬菜。这个秋葵形状颜色如同青色尖椒,不过味道比较平淡,口感却特别滑爽,汁液有些黏稠,感觉功用与中餐里勾芡有些类似。近年来很多餐馆还推出了鸡肉稀饭,小龙虾稀饭,基本就是主料的区别,味道上与海鲜稀饭差别不大。中国游客,尤其是上海来的游客都很喜欢吃这海鲜稀饭,相必这道菜让他们依稀闻到了家乡的气味吧。

 

Creole这个词我原来常常与Cajun混掉,因为两个民族都是法国人的后裔。后来因为好吃才牢牢记住了他们的区别。Creole中文音译为“克里欧”人,是法国、西班牙的殖民与本地黑人结合的后裔,克里欧食物风格更混合了法国、西班牙、加勒比和非洲的影响。它虽然也如同卡真食物一样大量运用南方本地原料,但是风格更接近欧洲大陆的传统风味,味道上也没有那么辛辣。近年来卡真与克里欧食物之间的区别越来越模糊,很多著名的新奥尔良食品都是又可以称为卡真,又可以称为克里欧。比如说著名的红豆米饭。

 

这个红豆米饭可不是中国的红豆蒸米饭,而是将红豆煮熟成糊糊状,同时加入很多调味料,比如切成小块的火腿还有南方著名的生香肠,让它变得馥郁香浓。吃的时候把加了火腿香肠的红豆糊糊热热的浇在白米饭上,佐以玉米面蒸成的方块玉米蛋糕,又是鲜美又是香甜。这道菜是新奥尔良人每个礼拜一的保留节目,很多餐馆,就是一般不卖卡真或克里欧食物的,一到礼拜一菜单上就加上这道。时光可以斗转星移,人与物都可以忘记或者变迁,只有美味的传统,再加上南方的Zydeco音乐被固执的传承下来,百年不变。

 

除了礼拜一的红豆米饭,新奥尔良在周五也有特殊的传统食物:前面说过的海鲜稀饭和炸鲇鱼。克里欧以及传统的南方对海鲜的吃法按照中国人的理论来说其实真有点浪费。海鲜海鲜,吃的正是个鲜味。而以炸鲇鱼为代表的南方海鲜吃法是把鱼虾都沾上加了调料的面包粉,然后丢到油锅里深炸:既吃不出鲜味来又不健康。难怪南方最出产大胖子,天天吃油炸食品肯定是罪魁祸首。不过依据传统每周五吃一次的炸鲇鱼味道还算不错。厚厚的一块鱼背肉,表皮被炸得咸脆,里面的白肉却是鲜美的原味。吃的时候抹上白色的奶酪蘸酱,配上香葱炸玉米面球,确实好味。

 

传统的克里欧食物还包括海鲜炒饭,小龙虾浇饭,乌龟汤,炸生蚝,面包布丁,油炸绿西红柿等等。新奥尔良的传统卡真/克里欧餐馆大多与法国大餐结合在一起,最著名的是华盛顿街上的将军宫:Commander’s Palace, 1403 Washington Avenue, (504) 899-8221。这家贵到无以伦比的餐馆在全美餐馆排名中曾经连续数年排名第一,这价格也自然是数一数二的贵。一般说来,晚餐每人消费在100以上,还要穿晚礼服才能就餐。在新奥尔良品尝美食,吃到极至就要来这里,可惜我瘪瘪的荷包只能空空装下这个梦想,不能将它实现。就连他们周日推出的面向大众的早午饭,从头盘到甜点整个一套也要50块左右,仍然是不能实现的心中永远的痛。 

 

当然,新奥尔良的餐馆从来不是以贵而著名的。这里的人最讲究的一个词叫做Lagniappe,意思是“多余一点”。到餐馆吃饭,一个大盘子肯定是满满的,一定要让人吃个沟满壕平外加打包才叫待客之道。海鲜餐馆里同样一盘子海鲜,煮出来的就比炸的贵,因为要放满一盘,煮的要多放不少才能看上去同样多。如此热情好客的文化,自然衍生出很多又地道又美味又便宜的餐馆。小柯在这里推荐四家。

 

一家叫做Court of Two Sisters,坐落在613 Royal Street(504-581-5804),法国区的中心。这家餐馆,就是不来吃饭也值得专程来拜访一下。餐馆坐落的这幢房子建于1832>年,两位著名的姐妹叫做艾玛与博莎,她们从父亲手中继承了这处房产,从1886到1906年在这里开了个奇珍物品店。现在的餐馆,一走进去看到的是幽暗斑驳的墙壁,右手边装饰精美吊着大水晶灯的正式餐厅烛光摇曳,昏暗而暧昧的气氛似乎在述说着往日法国贵族们的奢靡精致。再向里走,带落地窗的长廊让人眼前豁然开朗,小方桌上铺着粉红格子与白色的桌布,侍者们笑意盈盈对你点头示意。这里的晚餐价格不菲,但是周日的早午餐自助餐却是最受欢迎的项目,价格在$25/人,前面介绍过的各种卡真与克里欧的美味从头盘到汤到甜点是一应俱全。不仅如此,周末新奥尔良的本地乐队:Al Bernard Big Three会在这里表演,最最正宗的新奥尔良爵士乐,水平非常高,我只去了一次就爱不释耳请回来了他们的CD,成为我对新奥尔良永远的美好回忆中的珍藏。如果觉得音乐无所谓,那么还可以坐到长廊里面的露天花园去,那在周日懒散的阳光下与灿烂的春花丛中是要多浪漫有多浪漫。不过花园里的坐位有限,别忘了提前预约哦。

 

第二家叫作Franky & Johnny’s,坐落在上城,321 Arabella Street,(504) 899-9146。这一家的特色是海鲜,煮的炸的都有,价格非常便宜。一定要点作为头盘的油炸绿番茄,这是新奥尔良的特色。这里还可以点非常有特色的Po-Boy三明治。

 

说起这个Po-Boy历史可就长了,而且说法很多。有的说是经济大萧条时,一家专卖三明治的夫妻店可怜当时贫苦的铁路工,特意把法国面包切作两半,里面放入店里能找到的各式肉类蔬菜,放到几乎溢出来,很便宜的卖给工人们;还有的说是经济萧条时街车工人大罢工,一位街车司机Clove Martin与他老婆Benny给罢工工人们免费提供这种三明治,因为工人们都是贫穷的男孩们,所以这个三明治叫做Poor-Boy, 后来慢慢演变成Po-Boy。现在的Po-Boy三明治,一定要用最好的法式面包,主料小柯建议最好点具有新奥尔良特色的油炸生蚝,之后给三明治“穿全套衣服”,也就是说什么生菜、番茄、腌黄瓜、洋葱等等全部统统加上。东西放全了,自己随喜好再浇上番茄酱、芥末酱或者美奶滋酱,拼命合上两片大厚法式面包不让里面快要爆炸的陷心掉出来,然后张大嘴巴使劲一咬,就慢慢品味去吧。要是吃上了瘾,小柯顺便再推荐一下坐落在法国区的Mother’s (401 Poydras Street, 504-523-9656), 据说是城里最好的Po-Boy餐馆之一,它家的大招牌上还说是城里最棒的香肠店。有如此勇气,而且总是宾客盈门的样子,味道自然不差。

 

最后两家,稍微有点中等偏贵,晚餐大概每人要$20左右Jacques-Imo Café,8324 Oak Street(504-861-0886),是上城最最著名的南方口味大本营。店面是非常不起眼的小门口,进门是个小酒吧,周围一圈长条凳,上面永远是坐满了等坐位的食客。这里不接受预约,如果正好饭点来,周末的时候能等上一个小时。在这里吃饭不必点沙拉,因为一上来餐馆先赠送每人一块玉米面蛋糕和菠菜沙拉,味道都是超级正点。之后点菜基本就可以闭着眼瞎划了,什么都好吃。我个人推荐这里的炖鳕鱼,十分鲜美。不推荐鸡肉,味道一般。如果此时不在上城,那么推荐这家坐落于法国区北面Marigny区的Adolfo’s,611 Frenchmen St,504-948-3800。这家混合意大利与南方克里欧风味小餐馆在此区著名的苹果桶酒吧二楼,不仔细看根本不知道这里原来还藏着如此美味。这家的鱼是超级新鲜,尤其是配以自调的海洋酱(Ocean Sauce),实在太棒了!

 


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
June 14th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments