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四处游荡的艾小柯

四处游荡的艾小柯

My Little Travel World


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(完)


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尾声 . 文中餐馆总结

 

卡真与克里欧的南方特色

Shell Shucked Sea Food & Oyster Bar: 1506 Carrollton Ave, (504) 861-1003

Commander’s Palace:1403 Washington Avenue, (504) 899-8221

Court of Two Sisters: 613 Royal Street (504) 581-5804

Franky & Johnny’s: 321 Arabella Street,(504) 899-9146

Jacques-Imo Café: 8324 Oak Street, (504) 861-0886

Adolfo’s: 611 Frenchmen St, (504) 948-3800

日本料理

Little Tokyo: 1521 N. Causeway Blvd., Metairie, (504) 831-6788

Horinoya: 920 Poydras St., (504) 561-8914

Miyako Sushi Bar & Habachi: 1403 St. Charles Ave., (504) 410-9997

Hana: 8116 Hampson Street, (504) 865-1634

Sake Café: 2830 Magazine St., (504) 894-0033

亚洲美味

Frosty’s Café: 3400 Cleary Ave., Metairie, (504) 888-9600

Tan Dinh: 2004 Belle Chasse Highway, Gretna, (504) 361-8008

Nirvana Indian Cuisine: 4308 Magazine Street, (504) 894-9797

Basil Leaf: 1438 S. Carrollton, (504) 862-9001

Siam Café: 435 Esplanade Avenue, (504) 949-1750

Siamese: 6601 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, (504) 454-8752

Korea House: 3547 18th Street, Metairie, (504) 888-0654

意大利:

Fresco Café & Pizzeria: 7625 Maple St., (504) 862-6363

Slice: 1513 St. Charles Ave., (504) 525-7437

Angeli’s : 1141 Decatur St, (504) 566-0077

Angelo Brocato’s: 214 N. Carrolton Ave., (504) 486-1465

西班牙与希腊:

Lola’s:  3312 Esplanade Avenue, (504) 488-6946

Laurentino’s: 4410 Transcontinental Drive, Metairie, (504) 779-9393

Byblos: 2020 Veterans Blvd , Metairie; 3218 Magazine St.

中东:

Lebanon’s Café: 1506 S. Carrollton Avenue, (504) 862-6200

Jamila’s Café: 7808 Maple Street, (504) 866-4366

墨西哥:

Kokopelli’s: 3150 Calhoun Street, (504) 861-3922

Juan’s Flying Burrito: 2018 Magazine Street, (504) 569-0000

Superior Grill: 3636 St. Charles Avenue, (504) 899-4200

Nacho Mama’s: 3242 Magazine St., (504) 899-0031

美国小馆:

Camellia Grill: 626 S. Carrollton Ave.

Riccobono’s Ponola St Café: 7801 Panola St., (504) 314-1810

Clover Grill: 900 Bourbon Street, (504) 598-1010

Bluebird’s Café: 3625 Prytania Street, (504) 895-7166

Surray’s Juice Bar: 1418 Magazine St., (504) 524-3828

Café Du Monde: 800 Decatur Street, (504) 525-4544

Port of Call: 838 Esplanade Avenue, (504) 523-0120

Cooter Brown’s: 509 S. Carrollton Avenue, (504) 866-9104

法国大餐:

Peristyle: 1041 Dumaine Street, (504) 593-9535

Rene Bistro: 817 Common St, (504) 412-2580

Antoine’s: 713 St. Louis Street, (504) 581-4422

Emeril’s: 800 Tchoupitoulas St., (504) 528-9393

La Crepe Nanou: 1410 Robert Street, (504) 899-2670

Croissant d’Or Patisserie: 617 Ursulines Ave, (504) 524-4663

中餐:

Asia Super Buffet: 3900 Williams Blvd., Kenner, (504) 712-0899

Panda King: 925 Behrman Ave., (504) 433-0588

Five Happiness: 3605 S. Carrollton Avenue, (504) 482-3935

Asian Cajun Bistro: 301 Decatur Street, (504) 522-4964


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June 29th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(十)


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十.        永远的中餐

 

美国的中餐与在国内是无法比拟的。即便是在美食大本营的新奥尔良,要想找两家地道的中餐厅还真不是件容易事。飓风前有几家不错的风味小馆,比如擅长南京菜与川菜的“中国玫瑰(China Rose)”,新奥尔良东城的粤菜馆“新香港(New Hong Kong Restaurant),可惜飓风过后这些好餐馆都正处毁损最严重的地带,餐馆旧址至今断瓦残垣,不知道何时才会恢复营业。

其实小柯真的很为这些中餐馆鸣不平。虽然中餐一贯本着薄利多销以量取胜的策略,在美国从来都属于最便宜的菜系,但在中国大陆的中餐馆却已经开始用特色,而不是价格来取胜了。不说北京上海,就是在普通的中型城市随便一逛,也总有装饰华丽设计精美的高雅中餐馆让人心甘情愿掏出银子过眼瘾嘴瘾。可为什么到了美国,就很难找到高雅精致的中餐饭店呢?即使不能昂贵如法国大餐,但也总应该有那么几家档次与意大利中等餐馆类似的啊。目前为止,似乎除了打着明星招牌的休斯顿姚明餐厅,小柯还真没听说过几家好地段好装潢好味道好情调的地道中餐厅。如此的低调路线,在新奥尔良遭遇Katrina特大飓风后底气也最薄,久久不能从阴霾中恢复过来。

所以在新奥尔良吃中餐,还真没有什么选择。要么象小柯一样自己开《中国饭店》,要么就奔赴自助餐馆。吃来吃去,自助餐里有两家还算不错。

一家叫Asia Super Buffet, 3900 Williams Blvd., Kenner, (504) 712-0899。虽然位于机场附近距离新奥尔良中心比较遥远,但这里周末的海鲜自助餐味道还真不错,尤其是遇上葱姜龙虾那最为幸运,口感不比洛杉矶中国城里按只买的差。除此之外,这里的广东小点心也非常值得品尝,什么橘子糯米甜饭、韭菜鲜虾水煎小包,豆豉凤爪,虾仁酿茄子等等都非常可口,百试不爽。

再有一家位于密西西比河西岸最大的亚洲超市旁边的“熊皇(Panda King, 925 Behrman Ave., 504-433-0588)自助餐”,虽然并非纯粹的中餐,还兼有越南虾卷,泰国酸辣汤等亚洲风味,但大部分中餐菜色倒也做得像模像样,物有所值。

在飓风后这些重新开业的中餐馆里,倒也有两家城中小有名气。一家是位于中城的“五福(Five Happiness, 3605 S. Carrollton Avenue, 504-482-3935),非常受美国人欢迎。虽然这家餐馆味道不错,尤其是那道生菜卷粉丝炒鸡丁很令人喜爱,可小柯仍然认为这并不算地道的中餐馆,基本上已经是中美结合的“Chinglish”食物。即使如此,这家的气氛还算雅致,偶尔一尝也算不错。

另一家虽然也不是地道的中餐,但是掌勺大厨却是鼎鼎大名的香港赴美厨师Philip Chan。这位于1994年当选全美年度风云厨师的陈厨从亚特兰大来到新奥尔良,在法国区开出了这家Asian Cajun Bistro (301 Decatur Street, 504-522-4964),其特色是将南方本地的特色风味与亚洲铁锅爆炒的烹饪方式结合起来创新,比如“路易斯安那醉虾”、“亚洲卡真酿馅鸡”、“海鲜大烩(Bouillabaisse)”等。如果担心新创菜色不合口味,这里还有北京烤鸭配荷叶饼可以选择。需要提醒的是这家餐馆虽然也算中餐,但好歹也是名厨主理的正宗bistro,所以价格一点不便宜。

小柯真希望新奥尔良城中有更多的美味中餐馆可以让我花时间深入讨论,可南方就是南方,要吃地道的中餐,还得不远千里去纽约或者洛杉矶。但不管在哪里,对于中国人来说,中餐永远都是心头的那颗朱砂痔。哪怕走遍千山万水尝尽人间美味,中餐、中文,还有中国的声音,永远是那一抹熟悉的床前明月光,指引着浓浓的乡愁,提醒着游子们家乡的方向。


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June 29th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | 2 comments


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(九)


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九.        法国大餐

新奥尔良与法国的历史源源说起来可就长了。因为其优良的地理位置与航运便利,这座城市兴建于1718年,当时的主要头头是法国人Jean-Baptiste Bienville。Bienville带领一帮法国人在密西西比河口安了家,最早的新奥尔良老城就是今天河边的法国区。不过法国为了牵制英国在北美的殖民势力扩张于1763年与西班牙签订协议,也不管法国区里哭爹喊娘自以为是的法国人们多么心不甘情不愿,还是把新奥尔良当政治礼物送了出去。后来法国与西班牙爆发战争,西班牙的势力逐步消亡,尤其是拿破轮上台后,西班牙于1801年终于被迫将新奥尔良还给法国。

法国人这下终于扬眉吐气了,可法国区再也不复当年建城时的法国风情。原来在西班牙统治新奥尔良的这40年间,法国区刚好烧了两场大火:1788年和1794年,尤其是1788年这场最为惨重。本来法国区的法国风格建筑都是木制结构,一家不小心半夜着火,火借风势迅速蔓延,再加上各家各户都有弹药火枪,不及时组织人力扑救那整个城市肯定要沦为火海。赶巧的是起火当天是3月21日星期五,基督教耶稣受难的纪念日。本来法国区腹地Jackson Square上的St. Louis Cathedral大教堂的钟声同时是用于火灾警报的,可当时迂腐的神甫就是不干,说要严格依据基督教义不能在神圣礼拜五敲钟。于是大火迅速吞噬了整个新奥尔良,只有一幢修道院幸存,就连宏伟的St. Louis Cathedral也化为灰烬。六年后法国区又着了场大火,彻底磨灭了法国人在新奥尔良的建筑痕迹。结果今天的法国区老房子大多是西班牙建筑风格,不过法国对新奥尔良的长久影响仍然渗透到生活的方方面面,尤其是饮食。

可是正因为法国对新奥尔良的影响有200多年,时间长了,法国饮食习惯与南方本地的原料、烹饪风格结合起来,所以新奥尔良的法国餐馆都是带有南方独特烙印的,也就是说,在新奥尔良吃到的法国菜,很难与卡真和克里欧脱得了干系。新奥尔良最具特色也最贵的法国餐馆们,几乎个个都是法国大餐与克里欧风味相结合,比如前面提到过排名第一的将军宫和Court of Two Sisters。

这些昂贵的法国餐馆们小柯去过的没几个,只能依据本地报纸的一贯评级推荐两家:Peristyle, 1041 Dumaine Street, (504) 593-9535; Rene Bistro, 817 Common St, (504) 412-2580。这两家是众多高档法国餐馆里多年连续入选最佳高档餐厅、最佳法国菜的数家之一,不仅在新奥尔良,就是全国性的美食杂志都曾经做过专题介绍。去这样的地方,一定要提前预约。还有一家已经有160年历史的Antoine’s (713 St. Louis Street, 504-581-4422) 是新奥尔良最古老的餐馆之一。除了大聚餐厅,Antoine’s还有不同名称的小餐厅,装潢奢侈而艳丽堂皇。在这里吃饭,除了品尝著名的Oyster Rockefeller,更重要是体会倒流的时光,追诉永远逝去的辉煌。

Rex Room in Antoine’s

 

介绍新奥尔良的高档法国餐馆,虽然有一家排名不似前面两家靠前,但是名头却绝对响当当,凡是美国人没有不知道的。对啦,说的就是新奥尔良最著名的厨师Emeril Lagasee在本地开设的Emeril’s (800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504-528-9393)。常看美食频道的朋友一定知道Emeril,他有多个自己的烹饪节目,风格轻松随意,还有那句著名的大喊“Bam!”。不看烹饪节目的大概也看过高露洁牙膏的广告,里面那个因为桂皮味新高露洁牙膏的劲道而半夜大喊“Bam!”惊醒整幢楼的人就是他啦。Emeril现在不仅是著名厨师,更开设了自己的烹饪王国,出售菜谱与厨房用具。除了新奥尔良的多家餐馆之外,更在美国最繁华的旅游城市,比如Orlando, Las Vegas, Miami等地开设了一系列Emeril’s餐馆分店。去过Universal Studios主题乐园游览的游客大概都有印象在City Walk看到过这个名号的高档餐厅吧。

新奥尔良这家Emeril’s总店,小柯竟然有幸在几年前与朋友一同去过,至今记忆深刻。这深刻的记忆一方面来自于不菲的价格,让初来美国的我刻骨铭心;另一方面来自于超凡的美味,让刚刚走出中餐的我见了世面。那天我点的是一道烤鸭腿,配以威士忌面包布丁。毫不夸张的说,那只鸭腿是我在美国吃过最美味的鸭子:表皮香脆,里面的肉松软多汁,稍微蘸点威士忌面包布丁的褐色汁液,鸭肉的嫩、威士忌的冲、布丁的甜混合在一起形成一种言语无法描述的香,似乎带着些许酒精的微苦,舌尖转动仔细一品又没有了,只剩下味蕾的激荡与想要立刻再吃的强烈欲望。我们隔壁那一桌子不知是否专门来享受法式甜点的,满满一桌子各式蛋糕、冰激凌、布丁、奶昔饮料,两个穿商务套装的男人正襟危坐在一片眼花缭乱中一小勺一小口的品,让我又怀疑这两个肯定是什么杂志的美食评论家。

Emeril’s in New Orleans

 

如果没有银子去Emeril’s,去餐馆里的酒吧小酌一杯感受一下明星餐厅的气氛也好。当然,城中也有味道又好价格还算能承受得起的法国餐厅,比如花园区的La Crepe Nanou (1410 Robert Street, 504-899-2670)。

这一家同时也是城中最浪漫的几家餐馆之一,不接受预约,一到周末门口就排成长龙。餐馆的氛围非常具有欧洲那种小而暖的特色。小小的方桌挤在长长的走廊,彩色的壁画在昏暗的灯光下变作水彩般氤氲,小小的玻璃烛台里火苗跃动,彼此的面孔也因为火光变得温暖而充满光彩。恋人之间的表白,小柯想不出来更浪漫的所在。

餐如其名,这里最受欢迎的就是法国薄煎饼Crepes。炖蔬菜的,红酒熬牛肉的都价格公道又美味。这里同时还有价位更高些的牛排、鱼等,最好配以品种繁多的法国红酒,将情调推向极至。

说完法国大餐,最后不能不提一提享誉全球的法国点心。法国区腹地617 Ursulines Ave 上的Croissant d’Or Patisserie(504-524-4663)是全城著名的法国糕点店。空气清新的早晨去点一个享有盛誉的杏仁或苹果牛角面包(croissant),喝上一杯香浓的Café Au Lait,然后沿着法国区狭窄又色彩缤纷的街道信步闲逛一圈,看看橱窗里色彩浓重的油画和闪着玄光的水晶吊灯。或者赶个淅沥细雨的中午,点上一个圆圆的火腿蛋奶酪法式咸派(quiche),坐在窗边看游客行人举着花花绿绿的雨伞匆匆而过,看连续不断的水滴是怎么从倾斜屋顶上沿着灰色的瓦片不停坠落,然后一小口一小口把新奥尔良的美丽就着可口的咸派吃进去。而对这个城市的爱情,也就此扎根生长绵延,直到天——长——地——久。

 

  杏仁牛角面包                        火腿蛋奶酪咸派


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June 26th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(八)


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八.美国小馆

说到美国菜,心中的第一反应肯定是汉堡包,炸鸡翅。没办法,麦当劳肯德基在向全世界推广美国垃圾食品的同时,也让全世界人民对美国饭产生了偏见,觉得美国饮食除了这些垃圾就什么都没有了。

小柯来到美国才知道,这真是个错误的印象,至少在新奥尔良的美食天堂里,美国饭也有美国饭的好。

阳光明媚的周末,吃个早午饭我最爱去美国小馆,不仅价格便宜分量足,更重要的是环境舒适,东西美味。比如说上城的Camellia Grill(626 S. Carrollton Ave.)。这家飓风前最热闹的美国小馆可以说如同Café Du Monde 一样已经成为新奥尔良的标志性餐馆,加上门外就是隆隆而过的街车,这里是新奥尔良游客的必经之地。它的风采就在于其传统的南方烹饪方式与餐厅格局。

周末上午先在门外排半小时队是最稀松平常的,终于进去之后一行人被分配座位,坐在如同几个“几”字型的大吧台外面,对面就是灶台,点了吃的,厨师大叔开始在黑色平板铁面灶台上忙活,煎蛋饼的煎蛋饼,烤汉堡大肉的烤肉。大叔们边做还边哼哼着唱,饭馆里清一色的黑人厨师侍者,说话都是叽里咕噜的南方口音,唱起来就更听不清了,不过总归都是南方欢乐的调子,听得人也想跟着摇晃。后面的唱,前面的侍者也不闲着,一边给大家端咖啡果汁,一边伸出右手握拳跟大家用黑人特有的方式打招呼。看到面善的,侍者们嘴也不闲着,笑话是张嘴就来,非得逗得人哈哈大笑不可。除了服务,这里的东西也的确好味,蛋饼、三明治还有烤汉堡都是南方风格:量大味又足。

可惜,飓风过后Camellia Grill尚未开门。每次我经过如今贴满了粉红色海报广告的那幢白房子的时候心中都充满了惆怅,望着空空如也的街车轨道,不知道这座小馆,这个城市什么时候才能真正恢复过来,重现往日的辉煌?

这样独具魅力的美国街头小馆在新奥尔良有很多,小柯家门口就是一个。这家Riccobono’s Ponola St Café (7801 Panola St., 504-314-1810) 是小柯最常去的,从早七点营业到下午两点,离家门只有一个街区,可周末去晚了每次都要排队。 Ponola St Café 的装饰十分简洁,有点Key West海边的简陋小咖啡馆的意思,墙壁上是本地画廊画家的作品,大部分都很乡土,有些甚至丑陋,可标价也并不便宜,不知道什么人会买。

这里最出名的是蟹肉蛋(crab cake egg benedict)。两块鲜美多汁的蟹肉饼浇上酱汁端出来,每块上面放一个嫩嫩的荷包蛋,嫩到连里面的蛋黄都隐约可见。每个荷包蛋上再放半颗黑色的橄榄,这形象很难不让人想入非非。如此娇嫩的荷包蛋用叉子一捅就破掉了,里面的稀蛋黄迅速流出来,与蟹肉汁混合到一起,要趁热快吃。

这里的便宜三明治绝对可以称得上物美价廉,尤其是法国面包烤香肠,4块钱左右,胃口小的还得打包半个带回去。不知道如果小柯仍然留在新奥尔良的话,某个礼拜天清早会不会与读到这篇文章的你在Ponola St. Café 邂逅?

如果你象小柯一样自诩为“鸡蛋终结者”这样的狂爱鸡蛋,那么就一定不要错过法国区里一家装饰简单24小时营业的小馆:Clover Grill,900 Bourbon Street, (504) 598-1010。这里的煎蛋饼据说是全城最棒的,其秘诀在于蛋液中加入黄油,搅拌均匀后才煎。如此加料出来的煎蛋饼不仅颜色淡黄宜人,口感更是又香又嫩,要是再配上熔化后拖出长丝来的奶酪与咸鲜小香肠,最后的成果真可以叫绝得没治了。

如果早餐不想吃这些油腻的美国早点而渴望简单清爽的英国口味,那么花园区的“青鸟咖啡”(Bluebird’s Café, 3625 Prytania Street, 504- 895-7166)就是最佳选择。“青鸟”的早餐薄饼(pancake)最为著名,小柯建议尝试一下荞麦面(buckwheat)薄饼,搭配新鲜草莓、蓝莓或者香蕉樱桃,浇上糖浆,点缀一小勺鲜奶油,这个清晨就真正找到幸福的青鸟了。要是连早餐薄饼都不想吃,那么就去1418 Magazine St上的Surray’s Juice Bar(504-524-3828)去喝各式各样的新鲜榨果汁吧,保证给你一个最清爽的上午。

除了这些早午餐小馆,咖啡小馆也别忘了逛,尤其是法国区的Café Du Monde (800 Decatur Street, 504- 525-4544),24小时营业。这家除了法式咖啡牛奶(Café Au Lait)香浓,拿铁咖啡(Café Latte)泡沫细腻之外,一定要吃的是这里特别的法国甜点Beignet(发音“般尼耶特”)。这种正方形用热油深炸的面食虽然据说是甜甜圈的一种,可口感更象中国的油条。不过Beignets上面还要撒上厚厚的糖粉,吃的时候先在盘子里轻轻磕一磕,去除多余的糖粉,然后屏气凝神慢慢品位。咬的时候不要妄想边吃边说,小心糖粉被吸进喉咙里呛到。这家已经经营超过百年的老店是新奥尔良的象征之一,可以说如果没来这里喝咖啡吃Beignets就不算来过新奥尔良。

Cafe Du Monde

 

说了这么多早午餐小馆,可是美国饭毕竟不是只有早点与咖啡,汉堡炸鸡的确是重要的组成部分。要想吃到真正美味的美国汉堡,在新奥尔良一定不能错过的是这家Port of Call (838 Esplanade Avenue, 504- 523-0120)。在这里汉堡不是点完菜单上的一种就等着侍者端上来吃,而要自己告诉人家里面的肉要烤到什么程度:熟还是中间带血,就如同吃牛排一样。汉堡里肉上“穿的衣服”也不仅仅就是生菜、番茄那么简单,还可以选择炒洋葱与炖蘑菇,调料除了番茄酱还可以加美奶滋、黄色芥末、蜂蜜芥末、烧烤酱、辣酱等等。就是这么一个小小的汉堡,放了心思进去也可以从垃圾变精品。

如果吃饭的时候正好赶上体育赛事,那么小柯推荐去上城的Cooter Brown’s,509 S. Carrollton Avenue,504- 866-9104。这家进去就先被环绕厅堂的巨大闭路电视所震撼,大厅一边是个设施超级齐全的酒吧,各国啤酒在这里应有尽有。酒吧旁边是生蚝吧,就是不吃饭,与哥们儿来这里叫上半打生蚝喝瓶啤酒看体育赛事也是人生一大快事。吃生蚝最好配以咸饼干、新鲜柠檬汁与鸡尾酒酱。软软嫩嫩微灰色的一块肉轻轻挑出来在咸饼干上躺好,上面抹以辛辣的鸡尾酒酱,轻点几滴鲜柠檬汁,一口全吞下去,又是鲜美又是爽快。Cooter Brown’s生蚝吧里的咸饼干与鸡尾酒酱都是自助,尤其是自调鸡尾酒酱,第一次保证新鲜有趣。

除了生蚝,Cooter Brown’s的汉堡与三明治也都顶呱呱,不信的话看他们墙上巨大的菜单就知道了:有一个汉堡美味到“吃完打娘”! 这样还不算,下面是一个据称更美味的,“吃完打姥姥”!不管真的假的,欣赏这幽默又可爱的菜单时别忘了观察厨房里烤汉堡厨师的单人舞蹈。烟熏火燎中这位大厨忙得健步如飞,一边翻动明火上的汉堡肉,一边把香肠送入烤箱去烤,同时一边挥动大笊篱拼命炸薯条,一边又分开十几个圆面包准备接烤好的汉堡大肉。别看忙,人多压力大,可人家大厨就是步伐稳健毫不错乱,那管一干食客看得目瞪口呆还是赞叹连连。

小柯喜欢去这样的美国小馆,未必精致,却一定温馨、温暖、热情。这才是我所热爱的新奥尔良。


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June 21st, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(七)


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七.        欢乐墨西哥

 

说到吃墨西哥菜,小柯头脑里立刻出现两样东西:过油豆与奶酪。

没错,这两样东西可以说是墨西哥菜必不可少的主要原料。过油豆英文叫做“refried beans”,传统做法是先用洋葱炒热猪油,然后把煮熟的大豆丢进去用锅铲压碎,与猪油均匀的混合在一起直至黏稠。奶酪在所有西方饮食中都常见,这里就不多说了。

中国人去吃墨西哥大餐,最常点的就是墨西哥铁板系列(Fajita)。不管是鸡肉、牛肉还是猪肉,都切好放到黑生铁锅里滋滋冒着热气的拿将上来,同来的还有一小屉薄面饼,切得细稀碎碎的碧绿生菜、艳红的辣番茄酱、红褐色的过油豆和雪白酸奶油,当然也少不了橘黄色的Cheddar奶酪。吃的时候把这些五颜六色的零碎统统卷进面饼里,就如同中国山东的大饼卷肉,满满一口咬下去香得流油。

墨西哥人一定是偏爱这种五颜六色饼卷肉的吃法,除了铁板系列,还有专门卷好了端上来的,比如“塔哥”与“玻璃多”。

“塔哥”(taco)指油煎或烘烤成型的玉米面小硬饼,本来的圆饼被叠成半圆,硬硬的支在那,把刚才说的那些零碎放进“塔哥”两片半圆中间,三面都不封口。手拿稳了脆脆的咬下去,除了里面主配菜酸奶油的劲道,还有煎饼的香脆。

“玻璃多”指“burrito”,完全音译,与玻璃没有半点关系。上城一家不知名的小馆“驼背人” (Kokopelli’s, 3150 Calhoun Street, 504- 861-3922)最擅长这“玻璃多”。“玻璃多”的饼比一般的“塔哥”或者铁板系列的饼都大得多,足有十寸见方,除了普通的面饼,还有加入菠菜汁的绿饼与加入番茄汁的红饼。“驼背人”小馆有一个高高的柜台,侍者一样样问你要加什么,加哪种。比如米饭有白米与粗褐米;豆子有过油豆与普通煮黑豆等等。这里的酱汁也有三种:番茄酱为主的微辣,玉米粒与墨西哥尖辣椒为主的强辣和二者结合的中辣。都选完了你就站在高柜台后等吧,一会儿一个被叠成长方形足有一块砖头那么大的“玻璃多”就被包在明晃晃的锡纸里送出来了。六块钱这么一块大砖头,每个能顶我两顿饭。

可惜的是“驼背人”目前尚未恢复营业,要享受实惠又地道的“玻璃多”,只好去著名的Magazine大道,稍微多花一点钱去人头攒动的Juan’s Flying Burrito(2018 Magazine Street,504-569-0000)。不过虽然这家“飞行玻璃多”稍微贵一点点,但是气氛与厅堂宽敞程度都胜过“驼背人”,非常值得尝试。

既然墨西哥菜离不开奶酪,对于超级爱吃奶酪的食客来说,有一道菜小柯一定要推荐一下:Enchilada,西班牙语中辣肉酱汁的意思。这道菜与“玻璃多”相似,不过每盘里两到三个“玻璃多”都是瘪瘪小小的,平平的躺在盘子里。之后这些“玻璃多”身上被浇上大量融化了的奶酪,奶香四溢,每一口奶酪都拖好几跟长丝出来。当然,“玻璃多”上面也可以不浇融化奶酪,而以辣肉酱汁代替。小柯真是喜欢这墨西哥风味的肉酱,自作主张把它与美国的早餐蛋饼结合起来,象吃enchilada一样给蛋饼也浇上一层肉酱,最后的结果就成了又香又辣的墨西哥风味蛋饼。

新奥尔良的墨西哥餐馆当然不如德克萨斯州受墨西哥文化影响强烈的圣安东尼奥,不过这家Superior Grill(3636 St. Charles Avenue,504-899-4200)还值得推荐,尤其是Enchilada,相当美味。

对于喜欢吃墨西哥土豆片的人来说,Nacho Mama’s (3242 Magazine St., 504- 899-0031) 的各式蘸酱实在好吃得不得了,尤其是那个上面浇满了肉酱、奶酪、辣番茄酱的超级土豆片,虽然卡路里高得惊人,可惊艳度也如同新奥尔良的盛夏气温,只升不降。 


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June 20th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(六)


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六.        中东的异国情调

 

回想小柯第一次吃中东菜,应该是在阿拉巴马州的伯明翰市,沙拉里的腌橄榄让我皱了一路眉头,唯一记住的是中东的羊肉好吃,又软又嫩滋味又足。

后来才知道,那个软软的羊肉菜叫做Gyro,其实并不都是羊肉,而是羊肉、牛肉,甚至有些餐馆还放入猪肉切碎了与香料混合在一起烤出来的。Gyro通常与中东口袋饼(Pita bread)和哈马斯酱(Hummus)一起食用,吃的时候把切成两半的口袋饼从中间破开,在“口袋‘中放入混合肉与哈马斯酱,也可以把随盘同来的蔬菜沙拉加进去。因为中东菜里配主菜的蔬菜沙拉一般都是用简单的醋与香油调味,十分清淡,不会盖过主菜本身的味道,也不会浓过乳白色哈马斯酱本身的香中带酸。等这些东西都放齐了,口袋也就收口了。如同一个大三明治般,连饼带肉带酱带菜的咬下去,那真是香啊!

当然,中东菜最大的特色确实是烤羊肉,尤其是那种大肉串,连肉带蔬菜一起烤,还是那个字:香!不过自从小柯开发了新奥尔良上城的黎巴嫩餐馆:Lebanon’s Café (1506 S. Carrollton Avenue, 504- 862-6200) 之后,才发现原来中东菜还有那么多超级美味的珍宝,而这家黎巴嫩餐馆也成为“小柯导游图”的另一个必经之地。

在黎巴嫩餐馆里吃饭,一定要点那道迷迭香烤羊排(Rosemary Lamb Chops),最好烤得外焦里嫩中间带一点点血丝,然后叮嘱侍者从厨房那一小杯红辣椒粉,一小杯孜然粉。吃的时候羊排可以蘸哈马斯酱,也可以蘸特意要的辣椒粉加孜然粉。如果是后一种,那简直就是最正宗的新疆烤羊排啊,吃完没有不竖大拇指叫好的。与羊排同来的还有烤蔬菜,其中烤番茄与绿豆角永远都是我的最爱。尽管这迷迭香烤羊排是黎巴嫩餐馆里最贵的一道菜($18),但因为量大,六块羊排足够两人分食,性价比还是相当高的。

尽管羊肉是中东菜的特色,素食者在黎巴嫩餐馆同样可以享受美味一等一的菜色,小柯在这里强烈推荐用黑色生铁煎锅烤出来的素食锅(Veggie Plate)。这道菜最下面是一层加了香草调料的印度巴斯玛提米饭,中间是洋葱、番茄、豆角、西葫、茄子等的蔬菜大集合,最上面是厚厚的一层奶酪,烤到完美。一大锅分量十足,足够两人食用。如果同去的人多,小柯还推荐头盘里的大杂烩(Appetizer sampler),可以尽尝不同中东美味。

如果还想更进一步,饮料也可以发挥冒险精神点一杯黎巴嫩甜茶。茶里因为加了玫瑰水花香馥郁,同时因为有松子漂浮在水面上,茶变得更香。不过这种香更接近于香水的芬芳,喝起来有种怪异的感觉,很有几分异国情调。

吃完大量羊肉,估计没几个人还有胃口心思吃甜点。正好,结帐时候与帐单同来的还有糖裹的杏仁,简单一颗正好当甜点清口。在黎巴嫩餐馆吃饭,花钱不会太贵,保准吃完了还想再来。

除了烤羊肉,中东风味的炖羊肉原来也是不可多得的人间美味。

这家将羊肉炖出灵魂来的餐馆叫做Jamila’s Café (7808 Maple Street, 504- 866-4366),是艾小柯在新奥尔良又一家全心钟爱的美食天堂。这家小小的餐厅坐落于Maple 街一个不起眼的老房子里,简单的木门小招牌,如果不是门外玻璃框里的菜单与大玻璃窗里的串串小灯,驱车而过是太容易与这里失之交臂了。

餐馆主人Moncef Sbaa 与妻子Jamila 是北非地中海岸的突尼斯国人,12年前来到新奥尔良开出这家餐馆。烹饪风格融合了突尼斯家常菜、中东与法国风情,菜单上许多菜色都是这里独有的创新。来这里吃饭,十有八九能碰到热情好客的老板Sbaa本人。他不说“欢迎光临”,而是“欢迎回家”,难怪,看看店里七八成的老顾客就知道了。不过新人也不要紧,Sbaa喜欢给食客介绍突尼斯的传统与特色食品,有什么问题尽管问,绝对包君满意。

Jamila’s Café 最著名的是它的瓦罐炖羊肉与蒸粗麦粉(couscous)。小柯对蒸粗麦粉不十分感兴趣,每次来都认准了那瓦罐羊肉。小小一个瓦罐,里面是热气 腾腾的羊肉炖汤,褐色的汤汁里面一块块炖得稀烂的羊肉,没有半点膻腥,只有羊肉最纯正的香浓与鲜肥。这一罐羊肉配一晚印度巴斯玛提长粒米饭,最好把羊汤浇在米饭里,让溶化了的羊脂精华与巴斯玛提米饭特殊的清香完美结合。清冷的冬日夜晚来这里吃上一餐炖羊肉,暖得可不仅仅是胃。

除了突尼斯家常菜,Jamila’s Café还以法国风味著名,尤其是头盘的蜗牛。小柯在《食色性也》这篇文章中提到的法国蜗牛就出自这里。六只肥美的蜗牛放在纯白的小瓷皿里端出来,每只都浸泡在溶化的热黄油里,表面是一层深绿的细碎欧芹。蜗牛本身并没有多少肉可嚼,吃的是口感的滑爽,品的是味道的鲜与一点点的腥,用欧芹的清香来平衡是最完美不过的。这道蜗牛是小柯吃过最性感的菜色,来Jamila’s Café ,这道非吃不可。

既然拥有如此调情乱性的美食,Jamila’s Café的气氛也相应的极为浪漫优雅。闪烁的串串小灯与耳边隐隐约约的突尼斯音乐总让人有身临仙境的错觉,而幽暗的环境,跳动的蜡烛火苗都让四目脉脉相对这样的瞬间延绵成永恒。吃完了饭,还有侍者端来香橙花水来濯玉手,进一步将优雅的浪漫氛围推向顶点。每年情人节的时候这里都要预约,一对对一双双佳偶璧人纷纷现身这小巷小馆,正迎合了那句老话:酒香不怕巷子深。


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Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
June 19th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25


Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 776

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 320
盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(五)


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五.        西班牙与希腊风情

 

虽然西班牙殖民者在新奥尔良土地上留下了无法磨灭的痕迹,法国区的建筑也是空挂了法国的名号,其实全都是西班牙特色,可西班牙餐馆却没能如同祖宗们的圆拱门与繁复的雕花生铁栏杆一样在新奥尔良笑傲江湖。不过俗话说食不在多,只要地道精致,哪怕只有一家也足够竖起旗号,美名远播,比如说这西班牙餐馆Lola’s, 3312 Esplanade Avenue, (504) 488-6946。

别看Lola’s地处不算太繁华的Esplanade街地段,餐馆连信用卡都不收,自己也不卖酒,更不接受预约,可城中喜爱西班牙食物的人们,尤其是年轻人们都爱来这里品尝地道的西班牙海鲜饭,哪怕在外面排队等待一个钟头也乐此不疲。更有本地画家,专门画街道与法国区小馆水粉画的,把一副副作品贴在Lola’s店铺墙上,南方到不能再南方。

Lola’s的店面极小,座位几乎是人挨人人挤人;不过这样的布局似乎更帮衬了热烈的南欧风情,每晚都是笑语欢歌,人声鼎沸。Lola’s最受欢迎的菜色是各式炒饭,海鲜、鸡肉还有素炒,一大锅色彩斑斓的端上来,虽然价格不算便宜,但往往几个朋友共同分享,性价比就显著提高了。除了海鲜炒饭,这里的全素菜也口味独特。虽然不比西班牙本地,可来过的食客,甚至欧洲人,都说这里非常地道。

除了Lola’s,新奥尔良地区还有一家叫做Laurentino’s (4410 Transcontinental Drive , Metairie, 504-779-9393) 西班牙餐馆也享有盛誉,不妨一试。

简单说完西班牙,欧洲另一边的南欧国家希腊也不能错过。在商业区Metairie与上城都有分店的Byblos就是品尝希腊美食的正经去处。位于2020 Veterans Blvd , Metairie 上的分店面向大众,店面较小东西也物美价廉;3218 Magazine St. 上这家就走中高档路线,店面宽敞雅致,串烧肉与扁豆汤是这里的特色。

正因为地理位置处于地中海,希腊菜在口味上十分接近中东菜,区别在于希腊菜更为普遍的使用鱼类原料,比起烟熏火燎的中东大肉似乎更加健康。


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
June 16th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments


Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Warning: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected the timezone 'UTC' for now, but please set date.timezone to select your timezone. in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25


Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 776

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/travels/public_html/blogs/wp-includes/kses.php on line 320
盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(四)


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四.        无处不在的意大利

 

自从1880至1922年的意大利大移民以来,最初的三百万意大利移民已经发展演变到今天的二千多万,是美国的第五大民族。想想美国总共只有不到三亿人口,几乎每十几个人就有一位与意大利有这样或那样的关联,那么意大利烹饪在美国各地的无孔不入就绝对不足为奇了。

意大利菜最常见的两样就是比萨饼与面条。先不说它们究竟是不是马可. 波罗从元朝时在我们东方国土上受到启发而传承回意大利的;不过在西方饮食风味中,中国人对意大利口味的接受明显要优于其他欧洲国家的饮食。说句玩笑话,这比萨饼不就是把中国馅饼翻过来里冲外,而意大利面差不多就是打卤面么?

馅饼与打卤面在中国基本属于大众平民食品,吃的时候图一个简单方便,要是朋友家人聚在一起共餐,那更是要吃的舒心痛快。同样的道理放到意大利菜上,也要吃个过瘾,图个痛快。它不象法国大餐,讲究的是精致与高雅;尤其是吃比萨饼,刀叉甚至都多余,只管上手抓起来一角大嚼大咽即可。即便在餐馆里,左手拿叉右手握刀慢慢切缓缓咽的吃法对于比萨饼来说都太过做作了。

普通的意大利面主要有四种面酱佐餐。一种是纯番茄酱(Marinara Sauce),各个超市罐装直接出售的就是这种;另一种是番茄酱基础上再加入肉馅煮成肉酱。要是更复杂美味一些,最好再加入各种蔬菜丁,让肉酱的香味更加浓郁;第三种是Alfredo Sauce,也就是白色面酱,其主要成分是奶油、黄油与奶酪,黏稠芬芳,咸中略带一点点酸味,多与蘑菇一起烹饪;

最后是绿色面酱:Pesto Sauce,主要成分与白色面酱相似,但更加入大蒜、坚果和最主要的罗勒(basil)叶子,所以颜色会变绿,而奶酪一定要选用Parmesan Cheese。绿色面酱最后的味道除了牛奶制品的香,还有罗勒叶子(或者其他香草)的特别清新香气,混合着大蒜所带来的些许辛辣,非常适合夏天食用。除了这些家常面酱,餐馆里一般还有一些不太常见的特制面酱,比如说改变前面基本面酱的一种或几种成分为不常见的原料,或者直接用用各式海鲜调卤料等等。

与中国面条比起来,意大利面在形状上更为活泼,充满各式各样趣味盎然的设计与造型。除了最常见的不同粗细的直面条外,其他形状的一般都与不同面酱约定俗成为固定搭配,不过自行创造改良面酱或者搭配也是非常有趣的一项饮食创造,许多著名意大利餐馆的著名厨师更是乐此不疲,利用多种多样的新鲜原料进行创新,比如说在新奥尔良的特色之一就是利用这里丰富的土产小龙虾制作南方辛辣龙虾面酱。而不管是哪家餐馆,一碗出色的意大利面最重要的是要“有味”,也就是说把所有原料的独特味道都引发出来,同时又互补平衡,综合在一起交给舌头上的味觉细胞享受。

除了煮出来的意大利面,还有一种烤出来的面也非常受食客欢迎:“千层意面” Lasagna。制作千层意面其实非常简单:烤箱专用的方形深底大盘子里先铺入一层半透明的长方形千层意面片,之后放入事先调好的奶酪与番茄酱、蔬菜或者肉类混合而成的黏稠夹心,之后再一层面片,再夹心,再面片……如此重复若干次,在最后一层面片外面撒上奶酪碎屑,丢进烤箱烘烤大概一个小时,直到奶酪开始冒泡就好了。同简单的意大利面比起来,千层意面更为繁复精致,吃起来从形式到内容也更为有趣。其实意大利菜的精华除了味道的盛宴之外,最重要的就是要吃出乐趣,品出兴致来。同法国菜相比,意大利菜最合适一大家子老老小小闹闹哄哄的出门一起享受,席间觥筹交错,笑语喧哗,气氛热烈到无以伦比。从这一点上说,意大利菜的欢乐氛围最接近墨西哥聚餐。也难怪,两个都是超级理解艺术、生活,懂得享受人生美景的民族。

意大利菜还有一种类似中国饺子的面制食品,不过虽然形似饺子,里面放的东西却与中国饺子的馅心距离颇远。这种意大利饺子Ravioli基本上填的都是奶油与奶酪的混合物,作为头盘小尝几个尚可怡情,吃多了未免有些油腻。

不过同样是奶酪作为辅料,与茄子合在一起做成一道主菜却是超级好味。这道菜叫做“Eggplant Parmigiana”,中文可以翻译为“奶酪烧茄子”。别看虽然加了中国人不大吃得惯的奶酪,可最后的味道却非常接近中式面酱烧茄子。有些餐馆里的做法是把茄子切成圆片蘸面包屑炸透变软,然后浇上番茄面酱或者肉酱,洒上Mozzarella与Parmesan奶酪进烤箱烤熟,出来的成果就是美味的奶酪烤茄子。

新奥尔良的意大利餐馆价位一般都不太高,而上城大学附近的许多餐馆就更加物美价廉,尤其是比萨饼,各种特制的调料与菜蔬肉类,饼的不同脆软薄厚程度都能随意组合。比较受学生欢迎的一家叫做Fresco Café & Pizzeria, 7625 Maple St., (504) 862-6363。除了室外可以边吃边喂麻雀的休闲露天坐位,室内的装潢也清爽明朗。画家克里姆那张著名的巨大的《吻》在一进门处就颇吸引眼球,里面玻璃房顶的小室墙壁上新奥尔良本地酒吧的古旧宣传海报也很有点怀旧气息。这里的中东式口袋饼(Pita bread)算这里的一个特色,尤其是口袋饼蘸茄泥的头盘,一定不可错过。除了比萨饼,这里还有各种各样的意大利三明治,价格便宜量又足,还配以微烤过的红皮小土豆。尤其是口袋饼代替意式面包制作的卷饼三明治非常值得一试,小柯推荐茄子与鲜虾两种,口感清新滋味又足。

另一家位于圣查尔斯大街上的Slice (1513 St. Charles Ave., 504-525-7437) 与Fresco的悠闲气氛相比就更加浪漫多情。这里除了餐厅,更有一个设施完善灯光迷离的酒吧,很适合恋人们在此流连。Slice餐厅顾名思义,最出色的就是现烤出来的香脆比萨饼,尤其是超薄饼皮那一种。小柯建议尝尝这家的特制比萨饼,比如特别肉类大集合,希腊风情或者超级奶酪等。与这里相比,什么Pizza Hut、Domino之类的连锁店比萨饼就简直难以入口了。吃完了别忘记要一客提拉米苏蛋糕配香草冰激凌调整口感,美味超值。

如果正值狂欢节期间来新奥尔良旅游,那么法国区的Angeli’s (1141 Decatur St,504-566-0077)也值得一试,尤其是几种素食三明治,特别是加入朝鲜蓟(artichoke)的几种,滋味都十分浓郁。Angeli’s 周末直营业到凌晨4点,是法国区最佳的宵夜地点。唯一需要记住的是这里只收现金,不收支票或者信用卡。

说完意大利佳肴,就不能不再提一句意大利甜品。意大利这个民族简直是为美食而生的,同样的冰激凌,意大利叫做“Gelato”的就是要香浓数倍,更不要说夏天吃的意大利水果冰了。新奥尔良最好的专业意大利甜点店 Angelo Brocato’s(214 N. Carrolton Ave., 504-486-1465)已经在这座老城连续经营了三代,超过一百年,即便是毁灭性的卡特里娜飓风也不能将它打垮,装修一新的店铺马上就要于六月底重新开业了。

今后来新奥尔良的朋友们,一定要抽时间去这家店小坐几分钟,叫上一杯香浓的拿铁咖啡,点上一种或几种混合口味的意大利冰激凌,再加上一个几毛钱的新鲜意大利奶油煎饼卷(Cannoli),你会发现这将是你在新奥尔良花费最值得的几块钱。除了冰激凌与奶油煎饼卷,这里还有琳琅满目的意大利饼干,彩色果糖与烘烤到完美的各式蛋糕。小柯的最爱仍然是传统的提拉米苏蛋糕,吃了这么多,还没有一家象这里一样把天使蛋糕烤得如此松软多孔,罗姆酒与mascarpone奶酪完美的搭配在一起。小柯当导游带朋友在城中游览,Angelo Brocato’s是永远的必经之地。


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June 15th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(三)


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三.        亚洲美味

 

除了日本料理,新奥尔良还有两家越南餐馆小柯十分推崇。

一家叫做Frosty’s Café (3400 Cleary Ave., Metairie,888-9600)。在Veteran这条大路与Cleary Ave不起眼的交口里一个非常不起眼的小门脸,进去后也就巴掌大点的地方,没几张桌子。高大的玻璃柜台后面是忙碌得马不停蹄的一对小夫妻,小小的灶台也在这柜台后面,并没有单独的厨房。

就是这样一家最不起眼的小店,却拥有全城最美味可口的珍珠奶茶。这里的珍珠奶茶种类繁多,各种想不到的珍奇水果都可以被新鲜水灵的请进搅拌机里,与不知道什么秘方比例的牛奶冰块被打成最黏稠美味的水果珍珠奶茶。不仅如此,顾客还可以自主挑选水果的组合,什么芒果加水蜜桃,草莓加各式浆果,或者种种香瓜橘子之类混在一起。而小柯最喜欢的,是满满一杯香浓又清新的牛油果奶茶,里面一定要加上黑色的果胶珍珠粒。4块钱左右一大杯,可以顶半顿饭了。

除了奶茶,这里的越南小菜也做得十分好味,不管是米饭配菜还是越南牛肉面,分量是稍微少了点,但是味道绝对不差。不过说到越南面,小柯有一个绝佳的去处,甚至有一阵子几乎每隔两个礼拜就要去海吃一碗。

这一家叫做Tan Dinh,2004 Belle Chasse Highway, Gretna, (504) 361-8008,可以说是艾小柯吃过最美味的越南餐馆。一进门是辆老式的越南人力黄包车,菜单都放在这黄包车里,让人小惊喜一下。飓风前的菜单是图文并茂,就是不会点越南菜的人看图说话也点个八九不离十。飓风后的临时菜单变成薄薄的一页小蓝纸,东西少了很多,价格也普遍上涨了五毛到一圆。不过呢,好消息是虽然旧菜单的价格过时了,但仍然可以使用。我每次去都直接索要以前的带图片菜单,点起来方便很多。

小柯在这里的传统节目是先来半份烤鹌鹑作为头盘。别看是半份,也有三只剖为两半的去头鹌鹑,烤得香酥冒油,还略带一丝甜味,配上特别的柠檬汁酱,美味得不得了。一般与三五友人到这里吃饭,这个烤鹌鹑总是必点的开胃菜。

烤鹌鹑之后是传统菜单上的第50号,一大海碗香辣牛肉面。当然,越南菜里面条都是米粉制作的,与云南米线类似,十分筋道。香来自于面条里的牛肉老汤,配上炖到稀烂的胡萝卜,再佐以大量的酥烂牛肉牛筋;辣是因为汤放了大量香料和一点点越南红色辣酱,初尝并不辣得惊艳,可越吃越让人汗流浃背,不惯吃辣的吃到涕泪皆流也说不定。如果还觉得不够味,那么可以再把随面同来的墨西哥绿色小尖椒一股脑仍进去,撕两片碧绿的花椒叶子,抓一把新鲜的白豆芽,花花绿绿称着红红的一大海碗,就使劲吃吧。

6块钱这一大碗,一块又一大块的牛肉牛筋,保管最大肚子的食客也能吃个心满意足。吃完了面,汤也别放弃,趁热喝他个两大口,或者花一块钱买个新鲜的法式硬壳烤面包,一块块撕碎了投进面汤里蘸着吃。虽然这与西安的牛肉泡馍不尽相同,却总让我想起来那些年在西北与亲人度过的美好时光。

除了越南菜,小柯还喜欢吃印度美食。

当然,我对印度的了解几乎是皮毛的皮毛,对印度食品更是刘姥姥进大观园——什么都新鲜。所以去一家能够让我各有涉猎的自助餐式印度餐厅应该是初食者的最佳选择。于是位于上城繁华地带的这一家“涅磐” Nirvana Indian Cuisine (4308 Magazine Street, 504-894-9797) 就成了艾小柯体验印度风情的最佳去处。

“涅磐”的好处在于它中午提供便宜实惠的自助午餐,晚上就变成一流的印度餐厅,环境古朴迷离充满了异国情调,朋友小聚情侣约会都是个好去处。涅磐的菜单里我最喜欢的是各种各样的印度香烤饼,尤其是加了奶酪或者水果的味道最为芬芳。除此之外,这里的各式咖喱也比较著名,喜欢吃辣的可以特意叮嘱厨房做成超级辛辣的口味,小柯尤其推荐Tandoori咖喱系列。Tandoori指在陶罐子里烹饪肉食的一种方法。烹调的时候肉类要被祛除所有脂肪,在陶罐子里用调料腌制24小时,之后用牧豆树炭火加热,直到肉质变作酥软多汁。如此的烹饪方式不仅保证了味道全部进入肉中,同时也是非常健康的一种吃法:据餐厅主人Keswani说,比如这道叫做“Tikka Masala”的陶罐鸡肉,配以番茄黄油咖喱酱,具有促进血液循环的功效。至于印度菜是否因为其浓郁的异国情调,餐厅的幽暗氛围而号称可以调情乱性,这就要由各位食客去亲自实践啦。

除了印度菜,泰国菜也以其独特的香味和金碧辉煌的热带风情吸引了相当多的眼球与舌头。新奥尔良许多本地报纸都推荐上城的Basil Leaf (1438 S. Carrollton,504-862-9001),但据小柯的几位朋友反映,性价比并不太高。小柯在这里推荐法国区的一家泰国餐馆Siam Café (435 Esplanade Avenue, 504- 949-1750)。倒不是说这家的菜色味道跟别家比有多么出众,而是因为这一家的环境实在有趣。除了普通的餐厅方桌,Siam Café 里还有昏暗暧昧的角落,放一张矮矮的小木桌,旁边是缀着金色亮片的大靠垫。客人都席地而坐,闻着浓重的泰国香熏,在摇曳的烛光中恍惚端详着彼此的容颜,这个时候吃什么其实都不重要,最重要的是这个情调与气氛。吃完了,直接上二楼,上面是一家叫做“龙穴(Dragon’s Den)的沙龙酒吧,风格情调与楼下差不多。一到周末这里就成为艺术青年们的聚集地,在酒吧中间的空地上举办诗歌朗诵讨论会,偶尔也有人不念诗,而是上去登台献唱。握一瓶啤酒,坐在地上的软垫子堆里听听年轻的愤慨的或是颓废的声音,总让我幻想这里是大革命时期巴黎的政治沙龙,不管是希望或者震荡,总有未来从这里孕育。

可惜的是,目前为止,Siam Café 与Dragon’s Den飓风后都尚未营业。为了补偿大家白白听我说了半天书却不能亲自去实践的遗憾,最后再推荐一家评级颇高的泰国餐馆:Siamese,6601 Veterans Memorial Blvd.,Metairie, 504-454-8752,其特色是泰国汤与沙拉。

韩国小菜和烧烤在亚洲是非常受人欢迎的,不过新奥尔良地区只有一家比较地道的韩国餐馆:Korea House,3547 18th Street , Metairie, (504) 888-0654。特色是各式韩国烧烤。


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June 14th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments


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盛宴天堂——新奥尔良美食指南(二)


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二.        爱上日本菜

 

新奥尔良的亚洲人比例并不高,亚洲餐馆数量也不算太多,风味更是比较单一。中餐因为是我们的看家饭,等到最后再写。这里就说说新奥尔良比较地道的几家其他亚洲风味餐馆。

说到亚洲口味,在美国除了中餐,头脑中立刻想到的一定是日餐。没办法,日本从二战结束以后就与美国关系深厚,食物本身又追求精致完美,美国人一追求遥远东方的异国情调,立刻就假模假样的跑去吃日餐,也不管是不是会用筷子,知不知道日餐除了寿司别的可吃的东西还有很多。

当然,我这厢把美国人揶揄了一顿也纯属开玩笑,其实自己吃起日本料理来也是个二道贩子,完全凭感觉。不过因为日餐不仅味道可口,更是超级健康低热量,所以天天把减肥挂在嘴边又不肯少吃一口的我就经常拣这健康所在去。吃来吃去,次数多了,也吃出点点心得。

别看这寿司哪家店做出来样子都差不多,甚至自己在家弄齐了家伙事也可以做几个卷卷糊弄一下,好的师傅做出来的就是比差的要美味数十倍。切成六片的寿司卷与两个一份的鱼生寿司在主料上各家都差不多,区别无非在于鱼生的新鲜程度;但是这个包寿司米饭的薄厚程度差别就大了。手艺不好的师傅为了寿司成型,或者一般的亚洲自助餐馆里从利润着想,都在寿司卷外面包上厚厚的米饭,有些鱼生寿司下面的米饭甚至比鱼生还大。如此做的结果是破坏了寿司里料与米饭的完美比例,米饭的酸甜压住了鱼生或者蔬菜的清新,这样的寿司在我吃来就是完全失败的。当然好师傅的刀工厉害也能体现在寿司里面菜蔬的制作上。技艺贤淑的师傅在切黄瓜丝的时候不会先切薄片再切丝的,而是如同削苹果皮一般用刀削黄瓜,削出一大片长长又薄如纸的半透明黄瓜卷来再切成细丝。如此处理的黄瓜若有若无,与鱼生搭配得当衬托鱼的鲜味,却绝技不会喧宾夺主。

日本的食文化讲究完美,看看食品频道最著名的日本铁厨比赛节目就知道了。完美传承到吃法上,同样半点马虎不得。还说这寿司,吃的时候要蘸酱油和绿色芥末大家都知道,但并不是所有人都知道这个芥末与酱油是不应该混到一起去的。吃寿司讲究的是各种味觉的对比与融合,对比在于寿司的料、米,还有蘸的酱油,抹的芥末这些不同的味道是一道一道进入口中的,每一种滋味都有清晰的界限,每一种都应该被明显的感受出来;融合在于这些不同的滋味一个挨一个进入口中后,先被品,再被咀嚼而融合到一起,仿佛口中发生一场味觉的爆炸,由分到合,由异到同,好比人生中最完美的一场相遇。

说了这么多,虽然寿司是日本料理中非常重要的内容,但是日本菜除了寿司之外可吃好吃的实在是太多了。

先说说小柯最爱的一道菜:烤黄尾鱼脖子。日本烤鱼向来著名,小柯没去过日本,无缘得以品尝最最正宗地道的日本烤鱼,好在新奥尔良还有几家地道的日本餐馆,让我在异域也能尝到鲜味。鱼脖子指鱼头与鱼身相交接的部分,肉质最为柔软鲜嫩。烤鱼脖子要一直把刮了鱼鳞的鱼皮烤到焦脆,吃的时候连皮带肉夹一大块下来,蘸着酸咸的ponzu sauce,外焦里嫩的送进口中。最妙的是鱼皮与鱼肉之间薄薄的一层脂肪,香滑爽口,半点腥味都不带,在舌尖上一转一滑就溜进喉咙了。除了烤黄尾鱼脖子,还可以烤大马哈鱼,鳕鱼,秋刀鱼等等。小柯一向嘴大,从来都不喜欢又细腥味又重的秋刀鱼,吃来吃去还是黄尾鱼脖子烤出来最美味。坐落在新奥尔良老城左侧的商业城Metairie,1521 N. Causeway Blvd. 上的小东京餐馆(504-831-6788)虽然并非将日餐做得多么出色,但是这家的烤黄尾鱼脖子却真叫经济实惠。一般的餐馆这道菜只给一块鱼脖子,而这家小东京是一块半的量,烤得稍微有些过却也不太影响鱼的整体味道。点这道菜时一定记得要在点饮料的时候就下单子,虽然菜单上烤黄尾鱼脖子被叫做头盘,但是因为每次现烤用时要超过20分钟,而寿司等其余凉菜速度都很快,几乎每次都变成最后一盘大餐,所以一定要提前先让厨房烤上才来得及。

既然小柯超级爱吃烤鱼脖子,那么日式铁板系列也肯定是我的心爱,尤其是铁板鱿鱼。说起来这饭店里的铁板鱿鱼真和大学时候天津街头处处叫卖的街头铁板鱿鱼区别不大,就是餐馆里的鱿鱼个头更大些,肉也肥厚,调料是日式铁板烧料。大学的时候就爱吃这街头飘香的铁板鱿鱼了,现在自然更是心仪。当然,在餐馆里吃自然要比街头精致复杂一些,最好叫一碗寿司米饭佐餐,米饭上可以浇上少许酱油,吃的时候还可以配芥末,有点自助寿司的意思。

很多中国人都喜欢日本的鳗鱼饭,小柯虽然也非常钟爱,却不推荐大家在餐馆里点,除非那家餐馆真的以新鲜鳗鱼闻名。一般日餐馆里的鳗鱼饭都不是用的新鲜烤鳗鱼,而是烤好的冷冻鳗鱼,客人点了就立即去微波炉里解冻,切好放在白米饭上,再浇上超市里随处可见的鳗鱼汁,就行了。如此简单的做法,不如就在自家厨房操练,成本上可要便宜太多。

日本饭除了有名的鱼生与米饭类料理,还有著名的面。小柯对日本面,尤其是拉面的向往完全来自于那些缠绵的偶像日剧。日剧里男女主角总爱到街边的拉面馆去吃热腾腾的拉面,而且一部剧里要吃个不下五六七八回。这日本拉面,究竟有什么样的魔力让人流连忘返?

可惜正宗的日本拉面小柯至今没有吃着,现在也就处于刚刚明白那些乌东、Ramen还有Soba荞麦面是什么区别的程度。这些面里,我最欣赏简单清凉的荞麦面:Soba。夏天吃荞麦面是最合适的,面煮熟过凉水,之后拌上特制的soba sauce,随意放些绿芥末进去,面上再配以葱花和切成细丝的烤海带皮,一餐简单的午饭就齐活了。Soba sauce的清凉与芥末的火辣融合在一起,葱花与海带皮添入细微的香气,口中的夏天就这样随着荞麦面一根一根下肚变得清爽起来,清爽得过瘾,清爽得顺畅。

至于日本的油炸垃圾食品Tempura我就不多说了,其原理跟美国南方海鲜裹了面包屑油炸差不多,不过里面的内容还有蔬菜,算是比较健康的油炸垃圾食品。所有新奥尔良的美味日餐馆,小柯推荐三家。

第一家是小柯吃过最地道、最美味、最正宗的日本餐馆。不过因为小柯本来也没见过什么世面,这连用三个“最”字是否恰当的风险就要由诸位食客自己承担了。但是小柯可以负责任的说,这一家绝对是我心目中的第一名,甚至加州旧金山日本城中的日餐馆也比不过这家美味。这家叫做Horinoya, 920 Poydras St., (504) 561-8914。小小一家店,门脸小招牌也不大明显,可城中有名的律师医生都喜欢去这儿,就连市长大人也常常带着保镖频频光顾呢。最近上映的青春偶像Linsey Lohan的新电影《我的幸运(Just My Luck)》里面那个日餐馆的片断也是在这里拍摄的。名头响,质量好,价格自然不菲,可以说算全城最贵的几家日餐馆之一,不过偶尔要去小快朵颐一番也算能承受得起。Horinoya同时也是小柯知道的全城唯一设有雅间的餐馆。两间最多容纳七人的塌塌米雅间,用竹帘与大厅分隔,食客进门要拖鞋,完全与在日本本土相似。Linsey Lohan,Freddie Prinze Jr.还有铁厨节目中那个法国菜红衣铁厨Hiroyuki Sakai来这里就餐的时候都加付了20大圆的雅间费进雅间享受正宗塌塌米。

Horinoya 大堂

第二家是位于圣查尔斯大道上的Miyako (1403 St. Charles Ave.,504-410-9997),价格中等小贵,菜的味道不错。之所以推荐这家,是因为他家有铁板烧,就是众人围绕一个类似“回”字三边的铁板团坐,看厨师现场边烹饪边表演刀叉花活。要是图便宜,上城有一家Hana (8116 Hampson Street,504-865-1634)也被评为新奥尔良十大最佳日餐馆之一,顾客大都是学生,的确实惠。不过Hana的味道小柯总是不太感冒,实在是因为他家寿司的米饭从来都如城墙般厚实,不是我偏好的风格。

最后一家叫做Sake Café, 处于著名的Magazine与Louisiana街的交口:2830 Magazine St., (504) 894-0033。这里基本属于美国与日本风味的结合,除了传统的日本寿司、面、饭等,还有一些特别的主菜,比如小柯非常喜欢的花生虾。六只剥皮去泥线的熟虾放一圈在雪白的圆瓷盘里,上面浇上淡黄的花生酱与绿芥末调成的浆汁,盘子周围摆放几多鲜花作为装饰,不仅嘴过瘾,连眼睛也一并为这美丽的一餐叫好。整家店的装潢都十分现代优雅,尤其是天花板上掉落下来的玻璃彩饰灯,再配上小方桌上的精致蜡烛,可以说这是小柯去过的所有日餐馆里最浪漫多姿的一个。


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June 14th, 2006
Posted by admin | 新奥尔良美食指南 | no comments